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THE  HORSE  AND  DOG 


NOT  AS  THEY  ARE 
BUT  AS  THEY  SHOULD  BE, 


OLD  AND  ERRONEOUS  THEORIES  RELATIVE  TO 

TO  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  HORSE  BROUGHT 

FACE  TO  FACE  WITH  THE  FACTS  OF  THE 

NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


BY 

H.    SAMPLE. 


TOGETHER    WITH  AN  ELABORATE   AND  SCIENTIFIC    ESSAY    ON 

HORSE-SHOEING;    ALSO,    THE    ORDINARY    DISEASES    OF 

HORSES    AND     DOGS,    AND     THEIR    TREATMENT, 

WITH    MANY    YALTJABLE   RECIPES  ; 

HOW    TO    TELL   A    HORSE'S    AGE    UP    TO    2  1    YEARS,    AND 

A  FULL  EXPLANATION  AS  TO  HOW  HOESES  AND  DOGS 
ARE  TAUGHT  NUMEROUS  TRICKS. 

105   Illustrations. 


5 
1Z 


Registered  under  Copyright  Act  of  Victoria, 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  undertaking  the  production  of  this  work  the  author  fully 
understands  the  gigantic  task  he  has  shouldered.  There  is 
probably  no  subject  so  extensively  written  upon  and  so  little 
understood  as  the  one  in  hand.  I  think  the  public  will  bear  me 
out  in  the  assertion  that  there  are  more  balky  men  than  balky 
horses. 

In  consideration  of  the  magnitude  of  the  Horse  interests  of  this 
country — the  total  valuation  being  seven  hundred  and  seventy- 
one  millions  nine  hundred  thousand  dollars,  that  valuation  of  the 
same  number  of  Horses  actually  being  one  hundred  per  cent,  less 
than  it  would  have  been  had  all  engaged  in  training  and  using 
the  animal  as  they  should.  I  feel  positive  that  in  this  treatise  I 
can  convince  every  unprejudiced  mind  that  much  that  has  been 
written  upon  this  subject  by  able  authors  is  erroneous,  and  is  not 
sustained  by  the  practical  experience  of  intelligent  men  of 
modern  times,  who  will  not  take  mere  assertions  as  truth,  unless 
it  is  sustained  by  the  developments  of  careful  and  intelligent 
scientific  and  practical  observation. 

Having  devoted  eighteen  years  of  my  best  days  in  teaching  the 
proper  methods  of  educating  the  Horse,  and  in  a  field  that 
extends  from  the  frozen  and  lakey  regions  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  I  feel  confident  that 
the  knowledge  collected  will  be  of  great  service  to  the  Horse 
world.     In  connection  with  the  training  of  the  Horse,  I  will  give 


4  INTRODUCTION. 

lqv  full  and  complete  system  of  telling  the  Horse's  age,  from  the 
time  of  foaling  up  to  the  age  of  twenty-one  years — a  system  that 
has  given  general  satisfaction  to  the  horse-men  of  the  day — 
together  with  a  complete  description,  in  plain  language,  of  the 
symptoms  of  the  diseases  of  the  Horse  and  the  most  modern  and 
specific  remedies  for  their  treatment.  An  elaborate  essay  on 
horse-shoeing,  that  drew  the  first  prize  before  the  Scottish 
Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals,  will  be  added 
to  my  work.  For  the  benefit  and  interest  of  dog-fanciers,  I  will 
give  a  chapter  on  the  diseases,  training  and  education  of  the 
Dog.  The  author  is  still  canvassing  the  entire  country  in  intro- 
ducing his  new  system  of  training  the  horse,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  guarding  against  impairing  their  physical  structure,  or 
shortening  their  period  of  usefulness  and  profit.  Should  I  suc- 
ceed in  this,  I  feel  that  I  shall  be  a  benefactor,  and  thereby 
secure  my  highest  aim.] 

H.   SAMPLE. 


PRELIMINARY    REMARKS. 


The  Horse  is  the  noblest  animal  we  have.  He  assists  us 
in  all  the  pursuits  of  life,  guides  the  peaceful  plow,  and 
rushes  into  battle  'mid  the  roaring  of  cannon  and  the  clashing 
of  musketry.  He  is  man's  humble  and  obedient  servant  when 
properly  trained  and  educated.  While  he  is  the  most  serviceable 
and  useful,  he  is  the  most  abused  of  any  domestic  animal,  as  the 
statistics  of  the  societies  for  the  prevention  of  cruelty  to  animals 
will  prove.  In  the  most  of  cases,  the  abuses  that  are  practiced 
upon  him  arise  from  the  fact  that  his  natural  laws  and  habits  are 
not  thoroughly  understood  by  his  manager. 


6  PEELIMINAEY   EEMAEKS. 

Man  is  governed  by  education,  while  the  Horse  is  governed  by 
fixed  laws  and  instincts.  The  general  impression  among  men  is, 
that  the  horse  is  a  very  intelligent  animal.  Under  this  misappre- 
hension they  undertake  to  manage  him  from  an  intelligent  stand- 
point. For  instance,  if  the  horse  stumbles  or  slips  down  the  whip 
is  applied  as  an  instrument  of  correction ;  if  he  should  run  away 
and  smash  up  a  valuable  vehicle,  he  is  taken  by  the  bit,  and  in 
some  instances  the  whip  is  used  in  an  inhuman  manner,  as  much 
as  to  say,  "  If  you  run  away  again  I  will  kill  you."  If  he  balks 
in  the  street  or  road,  the  owner  or  driver,  as  the  case  may  be,  gets 
out  of  the  buggy  or  waggon  and  rubs  him  on  the  head  and  neck, 
saying  in  horse  language,  "  That  is  right,  my  little  fellow,  every 
time  you  stop  I  will  rub  and  caress  you."  After  waiting  some 
time  and  getting  his  horse  under  way  again,  he  jumps  to  his  seat, 
and  begins  whipping  the  poor  beast  in  the  most  cruel  and 
inhuman  way,  saying  to  the  horse,  by  his  actions,  "  Every  time 
you  stop  when  I  want  you  to,  I  will  caress  you  ;  and  when  you  go 
as  I  want  you  to,  I  will  whip  you."  Most  likely  somebody  is  on 
the  sidewalk  laughing  at  him,  and  he,  man-like,  whips  his  horse 
to  show  that  he  is  boss.  The  result  is,  the  horse  soon  learns  to 
stop  to  be  treated  kindly,  and  refuses  to  go,  because  he  is  whipped 
for  going. 

The  same  ignorance  is  displayed  in  the  blacksmith  shop.  The 
horse  or  colt  is  led  into  the  shop  to  be  shod,  and  when  the  smith 
takes  up  his  foot  to  prepare  it  for  the  shoe,  a  well-directed  kick 
sends  him  half-way  across  the  shop.  The  owner  or  groom,  stand- 
ing at  the  horse's  head,  rubs  and  pats  his  neck,  saying  to  his 
understanding  :  "  That's  right,  my  little  boy  ;  if  he  takes  hold 
of  your  foot  again,  kick  him  clean  out  of  the  shop. "  The  smith, 
in  his  anger,  attempts  to  punish  the  horse  as  he  deserves,  but  the 
owner  refuses  and  says  : 


PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 


"  This  is  my  horse.     He  can  kick  you  as  much  as  he  pleases, 
but  you  cannot  punish   him ;    he  is  mine.     I  will  take  him  to 


another  shop  and  let  him  kick  some  other  smith.     He  must  be 
treated  kindly,  for  this  is  my  way  of  treating  horses." 

The  proper  way  to  do  in  a  case  of  this  kind  would  be  to  take 
the  horse  and  put  him  through  a  regular  course  of  instructions 
before  taking  [him  to  the  blacksmith  shop,  handling  his  foot  and 
leg  in  every  conceivable  manner.  If  he  kicks,  punish  him  ;  and 
if  he  stands  quiet  and  submits,  treat  him  with  kindness,  patting 
and  caressing  him ;  thus  showing  to  the  horse  what  you  want  him 
to  do.  We  will  speak  more  fully  upon  this  subject  under  its 
proper  heading. 

Another  very  erroneous  idea  exists  not  only  in  this  country,  but 
throughout  the  civilized  world,  and  that  is,  when  the  horse  is 
approached  by  the  owner  or  groom  he  must  use  the  word 
"  Whoa  !  "  when  the  horse  is  already  standing  perfectly  still.  If 
he  goes  to  put  the  harness  on — "  Whoa !  "  if  he  goes  to  take  the 
harness  off — "  Whoa  !  "  if  he  goes  to  hitch  him  up — "  Whoa  ! " 
and  if  he  goes  to  unhitch  him — "  Whoa  I" 

In  fact  when  he  mounts,  dismounts,  looks  at  his  mouth  to  see 
how  old  he  is,  goes  to  him   when  he  is  hitched  and  standing 


8  PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 

perfectly  still,  or  approaches  him  for  any  purpose  whatever,  the 
word  "whoa"  is  invariably  used.  It  is  used  so  often  that  it 
becomes  a  habit  so  strong  that  a  man  seldom  approaches  the 
horse  without  using  it.  If  a  little  boy  should  happen  to  go  up 
to  a  horse  without  speaking  to  him,  his  father  would  take  him  to 
task,  and  tell  him  never  to  go  to  a  horse  without  speaking  to  him. 
The  little  fellow  will  naturally  say : 


Well,  father,  what  shall  I  say 


9" 


The  father  instructs  him  to  say  "  whoa."  The  boy  grows  up 
thinking  he  has  had  a  good  teacher,  who  understands  the  horse, 
hence  he  practises  what  he  has  been  taught,  and  in  this  way  the 
word  "Whoa"  becomes  almost  a  household  word.  I  say  this 
teaching  is  all  wrong.     Some  one  will  ask  the  question  : 

"  What  will  you  say  ?  He  will  kick  if  you  approach  him  with- 
out speaking." 

Anything  to  give  the  horse  warning  of  your  presence  will  do, 
such  as,  <(  I'm  coming,  Billy,  or  Kitty,"  or  any  other  word  you 
may  choose  to  use.  But  never,  under  any  circumstances,  say 
"  whoa"  to  your  horse  except  he  is  in  motion  and  you  want  him 
to  stop.  If  the  writer  understands  this  word,  it  means  "stop," 
and  nothing  more. 

THE    HOUSE'S    EYE. 

Next  we  will  call  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the  Horse's 
eye.  It  is  generally  understood  by  horsemen  that  if  the  horse  is 
approached,  while  in  the  stall,  on  the  near  side,  he  will  stand 
quiet ;  whereas,  if  you  go  on  the  off  side  he  will  squeeze  you  up 
against  the  stall  or  kick  you  ;  demonstrating  that  he  understands 
you  on  one  side  better  than  he  does  on  the  other,  especially  if  he 
is  of  a  high-strung,  nervous  temperament. 


PRELIMINARY    REMARKS.  V 

A  horse  that  is  trained  to  carry  a  rider  in  a  circus  ring,  in 
coming  out  of  the  dressing-room  he  will  invariably  turn  to  the 
right  with  the  ring-master  on  his  near  side.  He  will  notice  every 
movement  of  the  ring-master's  whip  and  perform  every  require- 
ment with  accuracy  and  promptness.  If  the  same  horse  is  taken 
back  into  the  dressing-room  and  then  brought  out  again  into  the 
arena  and  turned  to  the  left,  he  will  be  just  as  awkward,  when 
looking  at  the  ring-master  with  the  off  eye,  as  though  he  had 
never  been  trained  at  all. 

A  colt  that  is  trained  to  run  around  a  ring  at  the  end  of  a  halter, 
with  the  trainer  on  the  near  side,  for  some  time  it  will  be  a 
difficult  task  to  make  him  turn  and  go  the  other  way,  with  the 
trainer  on  the  off  side. 

This  can  be  illustrated  in  another  way.  The  Indian's  horse  is 
always  mounted  from  the  off  side,  and  in  travelling  among  the 
Indians  we  find  it  a  difficult  matter  to  mount  their  horses  from 
the  near  side,  which  is  the  custom  with  the  white  man. 

The  same  thing  is  true  of  the  cow  that  is  accustomed  .to  being- 
milked  on  the  off  side.  If  she  is  approached  on  the  near  side,  and 
an  attempt  is  made  to  milk  her,  she  will  start  off  or  kick  the 
bucket  over. 

The  same  thing  is  true  of  the  ox  that  is  trained  to  work  gentle 
and  quiet  with  the  driver  on  the  near  side.  Now  let  the  driver  go 
on  the  off  side  and  his  commands  will  not  be  obeyed,  but  the  ox 
will  be  as  green  and  stupid  as  though  he  had  not  been  trained  at 
all,  thus  proving  conclusively  to  the  writer's  mind  that  if  we  want 
these  animals  trained  to  understand  us  on  either  side,  we  must 
educate  both  eyes. 

This  peculiarity  of  the  horse  I  first  discovered  in  performing 
with  my  educated  horse,  "  Tom,"  some  eighteen  years  ago.  One 
day  I  accidentally  got  on  his  off  side  and  commanded  him  to  per- 
form a  trick  that  he  had  performed  a  thousand  times  while  I  was 


10  PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 

on  his  near  side.,  but  to  ray  great  astonishment  he  refused  to  do 
it.  After  vain  endeavors  to  force  him  to  perform  the  trick,  I  gave 
up  and  returned  to  his  near  side,  and  at  the  first  command  he 
performed  the  trick  as  promptly  as  usual.  If  the  reader  is  still 
skeptical  on  this  subject,  we  would  advise  him  to  make  the  follow- 
ing experiment :  Take  any  horse  that  is  very  much  afraid  of  a 
top-buggy,  and  hitch  him  to  it,  putting  on  a  bridle  with  only  one 
blind,  so  that  he  can  look  back  and  see  the  top  of  the  buggy  with 
one  eye  only.  Work  on  him,  hitched  in  this  way,  until  he  is  con- 
sidered perfectly  gentle  and  quiet ;  then  cut  the  other  blind  off  of 
the  bridle,  letting  him  look  at  the  top  with  the  eye  that  has  been 
covered,  and  he  will  at  once  become  frightened  at  the  top  of  the 
buggy,  and  attempt  to  run  away. 

This  is  not  so  in  the  human.  When  man  sees  an  object  with 
one  eye  only,  on  looking  at  the  object  with  the  other  eye  he  will 
say,  "  that  is  the  same/'  and  if  a  boy  is  taught  a  lesson  at  school 
with  one  eye  closed,  when  he  sees  the  same  lesson  with  the  eye 
that  was  closed,  he  will  understand  it  to  be  the  same  lesson.  If 
we  want  the  horse  to  understand  a  lesson  with  both  eyes  we  must 
educate  both  eyes.  In  conclusion  on  this  point,  I  will  state  for 
the  benefit  of  the  reader,  that  the  optic  nerve  crosses  or  connects 
between  the  eyes  and  the  lobes  of  the  brain  in  the  human,  while 
in  the  horse  it  goes  directly  from  the  near  eye  to  the  near  lobe  of 
the  brain,  and  from  the  off  eye  to  the  off  lobe  of  the  brain,  and 
therefore  making  no  connection  between  the  eyes  and  the  lobes 
of  the  brain. 

Another  false  idea  prevails  in  regard  to  the  Horse's  eye,  that  it 
magnifies  objects  to  seven  times  their  real  size.  Hence,  a  man 
will  appear  seven  times  as  large  to  the  Horse  as  he  really  is,  and 
this  gives  man  the  power  to  control  him.  If  this  was  so,  when 
the  Horse  was  eating  corn  off  the  ear,  or  going  to  bite  an  apple 
that  was  two  inches  in  diameter,  he  would  open  his  mouth  fourtee 
inches  to  receive  it.     Another  case  in  point :  let  a  horse  see  an 


PRELIMINARY   REMARKS  11 

opening  in  the  stable  a  foot  wide  and  lie  will  imagine  it  seven 
times  as  large  as  it  really  is,  and  will  attempt  to  work  through  it. 
We  might  enumerate  scores  of  instances  that  supporters  of  this 
theory  might  advance  in  support  of  their  argument,  but  think  the 
above  sufficient  to  illustrate  to  the  reader  that  the  theory  is  in- 
correct. 

Then  again,  some  people  will  say  there  is  great  controlling 
power  in  the  eye  of  man.  In  fact,  while  I  was  travelling 
through  the  Blue  Glass  Eegions  of  Kentucky,  a  very  prominent 
stock-raiser  and  physician,  and  a  gentleman  who  was  highly 
educated,  in  conversation  with  me  one  day  in  Lexington,  stated 
that  he  could  plainly  see  how  I  had  such  control  and  power  over 
the  horse.  I  had  just  been  teaching  a  class  of  gentlemen  my  art 
of  managing  horses,  and  as  an  experiment  for  the  class,  I  had  a 
very  high-strung,  nervous  horse,  that  was  very  much  afraid  of  an 
umbrella,  and  I  was  swinging  it  all  around  his  head,  and  he  (the 
horse)  stood  perfectly  quiet  and  gentle,  and  I  remarked  to  this 
gentleman  : 

"  How  do  you  think  1  got  the  control  of  this  skittish  animal  ? 
If  your  ideas  are  correct,  I  will  own  up  before  all  these  gentle- 
men/'    The  doctor  replied : 

"  When  you  took  hold  of  that  horse  you  kept  your  eye  right 
on  him,  and  he  saw  in  your  eye  that  you  were  determined  and 
not  afraid  of  him.     There  is  great  power  in  man's  eye." 

In  fact,  there  are  hundreds  of  people  who  believe  the  Horse, 
Lion,  and  the  Elephant  are  controlled  by  this  wonderful  power 
in  man's  eye.  For  instance,  they  claim  that  the  Lion-tamer,  on 
entering  the  Lion's  den,  fastens  his  gaze  on  the  Lion's  eyes,  by 
which  means  he  controls  the  treacherous  brute.  I  admit  that  the 
Lion-tamer  does  keep  his  eye  on  the  Lion,  but  in  the  same  manner 
that  two  men  in  combat  eye  each  other  narrowly  to  anticipate 
any  offensive  move  on  the  part  of  the  adversary.    The  Lion-tamer 


12  PRELIMINARY     REMARKS. 

knows  too  well  the  nature  of  the  animal  before  hiin,  and  for  this 
reason  he  keeps  his  eye  constantly  on  the  Lion  to  frustrate, 
with  his  club  or  whip — which  he  invariably  has  with  him — 
any  offensive  move  on  the  Lion's  part.  If  the  reader  of  this 
book  is  of  the  opinion  that  those  animals  are  controlled  by 
the  eye  of  man,  let  hitn,  the  first  opportunity  that  offers,  visit  a 
menagerie,  and  ask  permission  of  the  keeper  of  the  Lion's  den 
to  enter  the  cage  and  try  the  experiment,  and  after  having  tried 
the  experiment,  I  feel  satisfied  that  he  will  become  thoroughly 
convinced  that  his  is  a  false  idea.  We  know  exactly  how  the 
Lion  and  Elephant  are  tamed  and  trained,  and  what  cruelties  and 
harsh  measures  are  resorted  to  in  their  education,  thereby 
proving  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  author  that  the  eye  is  not  the 
controlling  power. 

THE  FIVE  SENSES  OF  THE  HOUSE. 

The  Horse  has  five  senses— like  the  human  being— feeling, 
seeing,  hearing,  tasting  and  smelling.  The  strongest  of  these 
five  is  the  sense  of  feeling,  and  the  part  he  feels  with  is  the  nose 
or  tip  end  of  the  upper  lip.  This  is  what  he  examines  all  his  food 
with,  and  in  fact  everything  that  he  wants  to  understand,  and  by 
this  means  he  can  understand  the  nature  and  character  of  it 
better  than  by  any  other  one  of  the  senses.  For  instance,  if  a 
horse  is  afraid  of  a  buffalo  robe,  or  an  umbrella,  blanket 
or  anything  of  that  kind,  when  you  throw  it  down  in  a 
small  lot  and  turn  the  horse  in,  he  may  see  the  article  or  smell  it  j 
this  alone  will  not  suffice,  until  he  goes  up  and  touches  it  with  his 
nose.  After  doing  this  a  few  times  he  will  become  satisfied  that  it 
is  harmless  and  will  not  hurt  him.  Should  a  little  breeze  come  up 
and  move  the  umbrella,  blanket  or  robe,  it  will  frighten  him  some 


PRELIMINARY   REMARKS.  13 

because  it  operates  on  the  sense  of  sight.  We  can  familiarise  the 
horse  to  any  object  with  one  of  his  senses,  and  that  will  not  be 
sufficient  for  the  others.  We  may  have  the  horse  educated  to 
submit  to  any  object  touching  him  on  any  part  of  the  body,  and 
if  it  should  be  moved  quickly  about  him,  thereby  operating  on 
the  sense  of  sight,  he  will  become  frightened. 

He  may  submit  to  the  object  being  moved  about  him  so  long 
as  it  does  not  touch  him,  but  if  the  object  should  touch  him  he 
is  liable  to  kick  or  strike.  Again.,  he  might  be  educated  to  have 
the  object  touch  him  or  see  it  in  all  positions,  without  moving  in 
the  least,  but  should  the  same  object  make  a  noise,  thereby 
operating  on  the  sense  of  hearing,  he  will  again  become  frightened. 
Therefore,  if  we  want  a  horse  to  understand  things  thoroughly, 
we  must  educate  all  the  senses. 

An  old  gentleman  once  told  me  of  a  horse  he  owned  that  was 
perfectly  gentle  and  quiet  in  "  all  harness,"  but  would  become 
uncontrollable  on  hearing  a  noise  resembling  the  rattling  of  nails 
in  a  tin  can.  This  bad  habit  he  contracted  as  follows : — The 
owner  saddled  him  up  and  started  for  town,  a  distance  of  some 
four  or  five  miles.  When  he  got  through  his  shopping  and 
started  for  home,  he  re-mounted  his  horse,  carrying  in  his  hand 
a  small  tin  bucket  containing  a  few  nails.  Everything  went 
along  smoothly  until  the  horse  started  into  a  trot.  This  caused 
the  nails  in  the  bucket  to  rattle  and  make  an  unusual  noise, 
which  operated  on  the  sense  of  hearing,  and  the  horse  took  fright 
and  started  to  run  away,  thereby  giving  the  old  gentleman  con- 
siderable trouble.  He  was  finally  compelled  to  throw  away  the 
bucket  and  nails  in  order  to  pacify  the  horse.  Ever  afterwards 
this  horse  would  get  frightened  at  anything  on  his  back  that 
would  make  a  noise  resembling  that  made  by  the  can  and  nails. 

We  could  relate  numerous  similar  instances  where  horses  have 
become  almost  useless  from  being  frightened  at  some  particular 
object,  such  as  a  locomotive,  steamboat,  street  car,  load  of  hay  or 
covered  wagon,  etc. 


14  PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 

Another  case  in  point :  "While  travelling  through  Wisconsin,  I 
visited  a  small  village.,  and  while  there,  sitting  in  the  hotel,  some 
gentlemen  came  in  who  had  been  to  a  funeral.  In  conversation 
with  them  I  learned  that  the  deceased,  whose  funeral  they  had 
attended,  had  been  killed  by  his  horses  having  ran  away  with 
him.  I  inquired  into  the  particulars  concerning  his  death,  with 
this  result  : 

On  Decoration  Day,  when  the  military  and  citizens  turned  out 
to  do  honor  and  show  their  respect  for  the  dead  soldiers,  by 
decorating  their  graves  with  beautiful  flowers,  the  deceased,  with 
his  family,  in  a  two-horse  wagon,  started  for  town.  One  of  his 
daughters  raised  a  parasol.  The  horse  looked  back  and  saw  it. 
He  took  fright  and  ran  away,  throwing  the  deceased  and  his 
family  out,  killing  him  almost  instantly  and  crippling  several  of 
the  family. 

While  I  was  journeying  through  North  Carolina,  a  very 
eminent  physician  was  killed  by  his  horse  throwing  him  out  of 
the  buggy,  when  going  down  hill  to  the  ferry-boat.  The  breech- 
ing-strap  accidently  broke.  This,  of  course,  let  the  cross-bar  of 
the  shafts  come  up  against  him,  and  the  touch  frightened  him 
and  caused  him  to  run  away  with  the  above  result. 

When  passing  through  the  State  of  Pennsylvania  another 
accident  of  this  kind  was  brought  to  my  notice,  that  occurred  in 
Reading.  A  lady's  horse,  that  was  considered  perfectly  quiet  and 
gentle,  took  fright  at  the  smell  of  a  slaughter-house,  ran  away 
and  almost  killed  the  lady. 

The  examples  of  serious  accidents  I  have  given  tend  to  show 
the  importance  of  educating  the  different  senses  of  the  horse  so 
that  such  accidents  may  be  prevented.  The  sense  of  sight 
should  be  first  attended  to,  that  the  animal  may  become  familiar 
with  all  objects  that  may  come  within  his  vision,  and  nothing  will 
then  frighten  him,  be  it  steamboats,  cars,  odd-looking  objects,  or 
buffalo  robe,  etc. 


PRELIMINARY   REMARKS.  15 

Then  again  as  to  the  sense  of  hearing  :  Accustom  your  horse  to 
all  sorts  of  sounds,  that  he  may  not  be  startled  on  hearing  them, 
which  might  cause  an  unusual,  awkward  or  sudden  move  on  his 
part,  perhaps  straining  or  breaking  some  part  of  the  harness  or 
buggy. 

The  sense  of  feeling  should  be  thoroughly  educated,  so  that  if 
the  shaft-bolts  drop  out,  thereby  letting  the  shafts  down  on  his 
heels,  he  would  not  become  frightened  at  the  touch,  but  under- 
stand that  it  would  not  hurt  him. 

Accustom  your  horse  to  everything  that  might  tend  to  annoy 
any  one  of  the  senses.  Then,  and  then  only,  can  he  be  considered 
thoroughly  trained  to  indifferently  overlook  all  such  annoyances 
as  are  likely  to  fall  to  the  lot  of  any  horse  in  constant  use.  I  will 
speak  at  greater  length  on  this  subject  further  on. 

In  presenting  this  work  to  the  public,  I  am  well  aware  of  the 
criticisms  it  will  be  obliged  to  undergo  at  the  hands  of  horsemen 
and  others.  For,  no  matter  how  well  a  subject  of  the  magnitude 
and  importance  of  this  one  may  be  presented  to  the  people,  there 
will  always  be  found  those  who  will  differ  in  their  opinions,  and 
are  ready  to  severely  criticise  the  ideas  introduced. 

I  am  well  aware  of  the  difficulties  inventors  and  others 
devoted  to  progressive  theories  have  encountered  in  their  laud- 
able efforts  in  the  advancement  of  scientific  principles.  Professor 
Morse,  in  introducing  the  wonderful  telegraphic  system,  had  cold 
water  thrown  on  his  invention  by  men  of  learning  and  ability. 
By  way  of  illustration :  The  gentlemen  who  were  chosen  from 
different  parts  of  the  United| States  to  represent  the  people  in  the 
halls  of  Congress,  in  1843,  we  would  naturally  suppose  to  be  men 
of  much  learning,  intelligence  and  integrity,  who  would  represent 
the  interests  of  the  people  to  the  best  of  their  ability.  But 
Professor  Morse,  in  presenting  his  invention  before  Congress,  met 
with  severe  criticism  and  opposition  at  the  hands  of  those  gen- 


16  PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 

tleinen,  and  it  was  not  until  1844  that  Congress  granted  him  a 
small  appropriation  for  the  establishment  of  a  line  from  Baltimore 
to  Washington,  a  distance  of  only  forty  miles. 

The  result  of  this  little  experiment  is  that  the  whole  civilized 
world  has  become  one  vast  network  of  telegraph  wires,  and  it  is 
now  considered  one  of  the  greatest  inventions  of  the  age. 

We  look  back  over  the  history  of  railroads,  and  see  the  first 
little  road  that  was  built  in  the  United  States,  between  Schenec- 
tady and  Albany,  New  York,  distant  only  sixteen  miles,  traveling 
at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  an  hour,  with  a  stationary  engine  on  top 
of  the  hill  to  haul  up  and  lower  down  the  small  train  of  cars. 
We  see  the  engineer,  who  was  imported  from  England,  with  his 
broad-rimmed  hat  and  swallow-tailed  coat,  his  barrel  of  wood  and 
water  on  the  tender  of  the  locomotive,  and  we  look  on  top  of  the 
car,  and  see  the  brakeman  seated,  with  his  foot  on  the  brake, 
ready  when  the  whistle  blows  "  down  brakes,"  looking  more  like 
a  stage  driver  in  comparison  with  our  brakemen  of  the  present 
day.  The  small  coaches,  with  seating  capacity  for  six  or 
eight  persons,  look  small  indeed  when  compared  to  our  manin- 
cent  and  commodious  Pullman  Palace  sleeping,  dining  and  par- 
lor cars,  accommodating  fifty  to  sixty  persons  each,  making  up  a 
train  of  a  dozen  cars  or  more — all  drawn  by  a  single  monster 
locomotive  that  climbs  the  snow-capped  Eocky  Mountains  with 
apparently  little  or  no  effort,  bringing  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
shores  within  a  few  days'  travel  of  each  other,  thus  binding  and 
strengthening  the  bonds  between  the  Eastern  and  Western 
people.  When  the  first  steamboat  steamed  up  the  Hudson  Eiver, 
it  was  looked  upon  as  a  miracle  ;  and,  as  the  hundreds  of  specta- 
tors who  lined  the  shores,  gazed  with  awe  and  curiosity  at  the 
movements  of  the  walking-beam  of  the  craft,  many  of  them  con- 
cluded the  end  of  all  things  was  approaching. 

We  next  call  your  attention  to  the  wonderful  invention  of  Mr. 
McCormick,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for   that  very  ingenious, 


PRELIMINARY    REMARKS.  %  17 

useful  and  valuable  piece  of  machinery,  the  reaper  and  self- 
binder.  See  with  what  opposition  his  machine  met  with — first,  be- 
cause it  was  an  unheard-of  thing ;  and  again,  because  the  laborer 
saw  how  it  would  do  the  work  of  many  men  at  comparatively  a 
small  cost.  They  even  went  so  far  as  to  intimidate  the  farmers 
who  had  purchased  a  mower,  threatening  to  demolish  it  on  sight. 
The  reaper  of  that  day  was  a  heavy,  cumbersome  thing,  necessi- 
tating the  employment  of  four  strong  horses  to  haul  it  through 
the  grain,  whereas  now  they  have  so  much  improved,  simplified^ 
and  lightened,  at  the  same  time  increased  its  usefulness,  that  two 
ordinary  horses  might  walk  through  the  fields  of  standing  grain, 
cutting,  binding,  and  throwing  the  straw  in  rows,  ready  to  be 
picked  up  by  tbe  farmer. 

By  these  few  instances  mentioned,  it  will  be  readily  seen  by  the 
reader  that  all  new  and  progressive  attempts  at  improvement 
have  invariably  met  with  the  severest  criticism,  opposition  and 
condemnation. 

The  author  being  aware  that  he  is  advancing  many  new, 
original  and  scientific  ideas  relating  to  horses,  anticipates  much 
criticism  ;  but  is  confident  from  his  long  and  varied  experience, 
that  if  the  reader  will  properly  consider  and  experiment  with  the 
methods  recommended  in  this  work,  he  will  be  ready  to  accord 
them  the  credit  justly  due  to  their  merit. 

We  are  familiar  with  the  various  methods  employed  by  the 
numerous  horse-trainers  throughout  the  United  States  and 
Europe.  Such  men  as  the  justly  celebrated  Rarey,  who  went  to 
Europe  and  tamed  the  vicious  horse  Cruiser,  and  afterwards 
brought  him  to  the  United  States,  exhibiting  him  on  the  stage  in 
all  the  principal  cities,  creating  no  little  excitement  and  curiosity 
by  his  many  performances. 

We  also  have  a  very  high  opinion  of  the  widely  known  and 
highly  esteemed  horse-trainer  H.   E.   Eockwell,  who  drove  his 


18  ,  PRELIMINARY   REMARKS. 

educated  horses,  Star  and  Tiger,  without  lines,  bits  or  bridle, 
through  the  streets  of  all  the  principal  cities  of  the  United  States 
and  Canada,  attracting  the  attention  and  admiration  of  all  persons 
who  witnessed  his  wonderful  performance. 

We  might  mention  numerous  other  inferior  horse-trainers  who 
have  been  travelling  throughout  the  United  States,  teaching 
various  methods  and  systems  of  training  horses,  and  could  give 
every  strap-rope  and  appliance  used  for  the  subjugation  of  the 
horse,  from  the  days  of  Sullivan,  the  Irish  Whisperer,  down  to 
the  present  day,  but  this  would  take  up  too  much  of  the  reader's 
time  to  no  purpose. 

The  author  will  do  away  with  all  these  patent  bits,  bridles  and 
appliances,  and  show  that  the  wildest  and  most  vicious  horse  can 
be  managed  with  a  common,  ordinary  set  of  harness,  such  as  is 
ordinarily  used  on  the  farm,  in  the  livery  stable,  or  by  private 
individuals. 

In  examining  the  works  of  the  celebrated  gentlemen  we  have 
just  mentioned,  and  various  other  writers  on  the  subject  of  man- 
aging horses,  I  find  their  universal  opinion  to  be  that  the  horse 
is  a  very  intelligent  animal,  and  they  have  endeavoured  to 
manage  and  control  him  from  an  intelligent  standpoint. 

Now  the  writer  will  endeavor  to  prove  that  if  the  horse  had  half 
as  much  sense  as  is  attributed  to  him,  he  would  kick  the  heads 
off  of  more  than  one-half  of  the  people  who  undertake  to  manage 
him.  We  will  endeavor  to  prove  before  we  get  through  that  the 
horse  is  a  machine  to  a  certain  extent,  and  is  controlled  and  man- 
aged the  same  in  the  hands  of  a  good  horseman  as  the  locomotive 
is  controlled  by  a  skillful  locomotive  engineer,  with  one  exception. 


PRELIMINARY   REMARKS.  19 

to  manage  and  control  the  locomotive,  we  must  have  an  artificial 
motive  power,  while  the  horse  has  been  supplied  by  nature  with 
motive  power.  In  order  to  make  a  horse  start,  stop,  turn  to  the 
right  or  left,  in  fact  to  go  where  and  when  we  want  him  to, 
we  must  understand  how  to  control  him. 

We  put  the  bridle  on,  with  the  bit  in  his  mouth,  take  hold  of  the 
lines,  pulling  to  the  right  or  left,  according  to  the  way  we  want 
him  to  go.  And  when  the  horse  is  trained  and  educated  properly, 
he  will  obey  every  command,  and  he  has  not  the  intelligence  to 
resist  our  control. 

The  horse  is  eight  times  stronger  than  man,  and  had  he  the 
intelligence  to  resist  our  commands,  we  could  do  nothing  with 
him. 

In  order  for  man  to  be  ab  le  to  manage  a  locomotive,  he  must 
be  educated  and  taught  how  it  should  be  done  properly,  and  in 
accordance  with  the  structure  and  purposes  for  which  the  machine 
was  constructed.  He  must  know  how  and  when  to  start,  stop, 
slacken  or  increase  the  speed  ;  when  to  feed  it  with  fuel  and  water, 
and  how  much  to  give,  otherwise  serious  results  may  follow. 

The  same  remark  will  apply  to  the  intelligent  handling  of  the 
horse.  To  fully  control  his  every  movement,  and  guide  his  foot- 
steps, the  man  must  first  be  taught  the  best  methods  of  getting 
control  of  the  animal — to  learn  his  weak  or  strong  points,  that  he 
may  take  advantage  of  them  to  impress  certain  things  or  acts  on 
the  horse's  mind.  He  must  learn  the  cause  and  effect  of  every 
movement  of  the  horse,  and  the  most  likely  impressions  caused  by 
certain  methods  of  training. 

The  locomotive  engineer  thoroughly  understands  every  part  of 
his  engine  and  the  relation  of  each  part  to  the  others,  and  the 
effect  of  any  effort  on  his  part  to  guide  and  control  it.  So  must 
the  man  be  educated  to  understand  the  horse's  natural  laws  that 
govern  him,  and  devise  means  and  adopt  plans  to  overcome  him 
and  make  him  what  he  was  intended  to  be — man's  humble  and 


20  PRELIMINARY    REMARKS. 

obedient  servant.  While  man  has  the  power  to  manage  and  con- 
trol this  noble  animal,  he  should  not  abuse  it  in  the  way  and 
manner  in  which  some  cruel  and  unprincipled  men  do,  by  hitching 
him  to  loads  too  heavy  for  him  to  draw,  and  whipping  and  abusing 
him  because  he  is  unable  to  pull  it — thus  getting  the  horse  balked 
— and  driving  him  to  death  because  he  is  willing  to  go  ;  hitching 
him  in  the  hot  sun  or  in  the  cold  and  bleak  winds — sometimes  in 
severe  storms  without  blanket  or  covering — while,  perhaps,  the 
owner  or  driver  is  snugly  housed  and  warmly  clad. 

If  the  horse  was  intelligent  he  would  not  submit  to  this  treat- 
ment, he  would  break  his  halter  or  bridle  and  seek  a  place  of 
shelter. 

In  1880  the  writer  was  in  Chicago,  engaged  in  teaching  his 
system  of  handling  the  Horse.  His  attention  was  called  to  one 
of  the  most  cruel  and  outrageous  performances  that  was  ever 
permitted  to  go  on  in  a  civilized  community.  O'Leary,  the  cele- 
brated pedestrian,  and  Jack  Haverly,  the  well-known  minstrel 
man,  erected,  on  a  large  lot  at  Lake  Front,  an  immense  tent — the 
largest,  perhaps,  ever  put  up  in  Chicago — for  the  purpose  of  con- 
ducting a  go-as-you-please  race  of  horses  against  men,  lasting  six 
and  a  half  long  days  and  nights. 

While  the  men  were  allowed  to  go  as  they  pleased,  resting 
when  they  felt  so  disposed,  the  poor  suffering  dumb  brutes  were 
compelled  to  go  as  their  masters  dictated.  One  of  the  horses 
died  before  the  conclusion  of  the  race,  and  another  died  shortly 
afterwards.  Their  deaths  were  caused  by  the  cruelties  practiced 
on  them  with  whip  and  spur,  and  by  heartless  driving  beyond 
nature's  limit.  There  were  five  or  six  horses  entered  in  this 
race,  and  at  the  conclusion  the  poor  animals  were  completely 
exhausted  and  broken  down. 

We  have  no  objections  to  men  walking  themselves  to  death 
if  they  feel  so  disposed,  but  we  have  a  very  serious  objection  to 
the  forcing  of  horses  into  these  unnecessary  and  unprofitable 
exhibitions. 


PRELIMINARY    REMARKS.  21 

We  will  here  take  occasion  to  remark  that,  had  these  horses 
been  possessed  of  one-half  the  sense,  reasoning  power  and 
intelligence  that  is  generally  accorded  them,  they  would  most 
assuredly  have  rebelled  against  such  brutal  treatment  as  they 
experienced  during  this  race,  and  demolished  the  canvas,  dis- 
persed the  spectators  who,  by  their  presence,  encouraged  such 
brutality,  and  kicked  the  heads  off  the  managers. 

This  outrageous  performance  was  allowed  to  go  on,  undis- 
turbed, under  the  eye  of  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty 
to  Animals. 

We  could  relate  instances  without  number,  to  sustain  our 
argument  on  this  point,  that  had  the  horse  the  intelligence 
credited  to  him  he  would  never  submit  to  the  treatment  he 
receives  at  the  hands  of  many  who  are  engaged  in  the  handling, 
driving  and  working  him.  We  are  convinced  that  the 
above  will  clearly  illustrate  our  ideas  to  the  careful 
reader. 

A  great  many  people  mistake  the  natural  instinct  of  the  horse 
for  intelligence. 

Should  night  overtake  a  horse  in  the  woods  or  thicket,  at  a 
place  where  he  had  never  been  before,  his  natural  instincts  will 
guide  him  home  ;  whereas,  if  an  intelligent  man  be  placed  in 
the  same  predicament,  the  chances  would  be  in  favor  of 
his  wandering  aimlessly  about  all  night  and  perphas  all 
day,  until  he  found  some  person  to  direct  him  on  his  way. 

If  a  horse  and  man  are  on  a  sinking  steamboat  on  the  river, 
during  a  dark  night,  and  both  are  obliged  to  seek  safety,  the 
horse  will  boldly  strike  out  and  swim  to  the  nearest  land,  while 
the  man  may  be  a  good  swimmer,  yet  if  he  cannot  see  the  shore, 
even  if  it  be  within  easy  reach  of  him,  is  as  likely  to  swim  into 
the  middle  of  the  channel  as  he  is  to  go  to  the  land. 

A  little  pig  placed  in  a  sack,  and  taken  in  a  buggy  some  five 


22  PRELIMINARY    REMARKS. 

or  six  miles  from  home,  if  it  should  accidentally  get  loose  will 
return,  even  if  it  has  to  swim  rivers  and  cross  ditches  to 
do  so. 

A  man  with  all  his  intelligence,  if  taken  away  from  any  place 
under  the  same  circumstances  and  in  a  strange  locality,  could 
never  return  to  the  original  starting  point  without  receiving  aid 
from  some  one  or  by  the  use  of  scientific  instruments. 

The  bee,  in  wandering  miles  from  its  hive,  gathering  honey 
from  flower  to  flower,  on  securing  a  goodly  store  of  sweets,  takes 
a  direct  course  to  its  hive,  or,  as  generally  spoken  of,  makes  "  a 
bee-line  for  home. " 

Man  with  all  his  intelligence,  education  and  scientific  acquire- 
ments, even  had  he  wings  and  was  able  to  fly  like  the  bee,  could 
never  find  his  way  home  in  a  direct  straight  line,  as  does  the  little 
busy  bee.  From  this,  we  hold  that  man,  with  all  his  attainments 
and  acquired  knowledge,  is  unable  to  perform  the  mysterious 
feats  that  the  horse,  hog,  bee,  and  we  might  mention  hundreds  of 
other  animals,  etc.,  go  through  every  day. 

But  we  must  not  lose  sight  of  our  main  subject,  and  will  return 
to  the  education  and  training  of  the  horse. 


MANAGEMENT  OE  THE   HOUSE. 


HOW   TO   BREAK   A   COLT   PROPERLY. 

The  first  important  consideration  in  the  management  of  a  colt 
is  the  proper  selection  of  a  yard,  corral,  or  lot,  clear  of  all 
obstacles  that  would  be  at  all  liable  to  injure  him,  and  also  to 
have  a  fence  around  the  place  of  proper  strength  and  heighth  to 
prevent  him  from  jumping  out. 

We  would  suggest  that  the  yard  or  corral  be  some  thirty-five  or 
forty  feet  square,  if  convenient. 

If  the  colt  is  domesticated  and  halter-broke,  lead  him  into  this 
lot  or  corral.  Prepare  yourself  with  a  pole  some  ten  or  twelve 
feet  long,  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  half  in  diameter,  made  of 
hickory,  ash,  or  any  hard,  tough  wood,  sand-papered  smooth. 

If  he  is  not  halter-broken,  drive  him  into  the  corral  with  other 
stock,  then  turn  out  all  the  others. 

Take  one  end  of  the  pole  in  both  hands.  Now  proceed  to  handle 
the  colt  with  the  other  end.  This  at  first  may  scare  or  excite 
the  colt  very  much — but  get  him  in  one  corner  of  the  corral- 
Then  reach  out  your  pole  and  touch  the  neck  or  withers  as  though 
it  was  your  own  hand.  We  can  do  this,  knowing  that  if  the  colt 
should  kick  or  strike,  the  trainer  will  be  ten  or  twelve  feet  away 
from  him,  and  will  not  get  hurt. 


24  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    HORSE. 

Handle  and  touch  him  with  this  wooden  hand  until  he  becomes 
reconciled  to  the  sense  of  touch.  As  the  colt  becomes  more  docile, 
the  trainer  can  keep  rubbing  and  touching  him  on  the  neck  with 
the  pole,  and  gradually  approach  closer  and  closer  as  the  colt  gets 
used  to  being  touched. 

If  he  should  whirl  and  attempt  to  kick,  handle  him  a  little 
roughly  with  the  end  of  the  pole,  and  get  him  into  the  corner 
again,  and  proceed  as  before,  rubbing  him  on  the  top  of  the  neck 
with  the  pole  until  he  will  allow  you  to  approach  close  enough  to 
enable  you  to  place  your  hand  on  him,  being  careful  not  to  reach 
out  your  hand  too  quickly  for  fear  of  frightening  him  by  the 
sudden  motion  of  the  hand. 

Eemember  all  this  time  that  the  colt  does  not  understand  what 
you  are  going  to  do.  When  you  succeed  in  getting  your  hand  on 
him,  rub  him  very  gently  and  quietly  until  you  can  rub  about  the 
head  and  neck.  Do  this  for  some  little  time,  then  take  a  common 
five-ring  leather  halter  and  place  it  on  the  colt's  head  quietly  and 
easily. 

Be  careful,  in  placing  the  strap  over  his  neck,  to  do  it  very 
gently,  so  that  it  will  not  strike  his  neck,  causing  him  to  jump 
and  escape. 

When  the  halter  is  on  him,  take  hold  of  it  and  draw  his  head 
toward  you  slowly,  rubbing  the  colt  with  the  right  hand  along  his 
side  and  back  until  you  can  get  it  back  near  the  tail. 

Be  careful  all  the  time  that  the  colt  does  not  whirl  and  kick  at 
you.  As  soon  as  the  colt  will  submit  to  this,  catch  him  by  the 
hair  of  the  tail  with  your  right  hand,  holding  firmly  to  the  halter 
with  the  left  hand  at  the  same  time.  This  will  bring  him  into  a 
circling  position,  and  cause  him  to  move  around.  Give  him  a 
few  quick  swings  around,  holding  firmly  to  the  head  and  tail. 
This  will  soon  make  him  dizzy  ;  then  slacken  up  a  little  on  the 
tail  and  he  will  stop. 


MANAGEMENT  OF   THE   HORSE.  25 

Then  tie  a  single  knot  in  the  hair  of  the  tail,  draw  it  tight  and 
hold  the  knot  firmly  in  your  right  hand  ;  divide  the  hair  evenly 
between  the  knot  and  the  end  of  the  tail  with  the  fingers  of 
the  left  hand ;  slip  the  lead  of  the  halter  between  the  hair  of  the 
tail,  and  draw  the  head  and  tail  together,  or  near  enough  to  get 
his  body  in  a  circling  position,  making  the  halter  fast  to  the  tail 
with  a  half  hitch,  and  let  him  go.     [See  cut  No.  1.] 


No.  1. 
But  be  careful  at  first  not  to  tie  him  up  too  tight,  as  this  will 
cause  him  to  whirl  around  very  fast  and  make  him  fall  down, 
which  is  unnecessary. 

Use  your  judgment  according  to  the  horse  you  are  operating 
on.  If  he  is  high-strung  and  of  a  nervous  temperament,  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  tie  him  as  short  as  if  he  was  of  a  dull,  stupid 
disposition. 

When  the  colt  is  fixed  in  this  position — head  and  tail — his 
strength  is  divided  against  itself.  The  more  he  pulls  with  his 
head  on  the  halter,  the  more  he  pulls  his  own  tail.  He  will  soon 
learn  to  stand  hitched,  and  we  are  sure  that  a  colt  hitched  in  this 
way  will  never  learn  the  bad  habit  of  breaking  the  halter. 

The  philosophy  of  this  system  is  to  impress  the  colt  at  once 
with  the  fact  that  he  cannot  break  loose. 


26  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    HORSE. 

He  can  lie  down,  walk  about,  run  round,  etc.,  still  he  is  hitched 
and  can't  get  loose. 

The  natural  instinct  of  the  colt  is  to  pull  upon  anything  that 
may  be  placed  upon  his  head  or  neck,  and  we  take  this  method  of 
putting  pressure  on  the  head. 

The  next  duty  of  the  trainer,  after  the  horse  has  submitted  to 
this  treatment  and  has  learned  to  stand  perfectly  still,  is  to  take 
the  pole  used  in  the  first  instance,  holding  on  to  one  end  and 
handling  the  colt  with  the  other.  This  may  start  him  to  going 
again.     [See  cut  No.  2.] 


No.  2. 

"We  now  want  to  operate  on  the  sense  of  feeling,  and  by  having 
this  pole  touch  him  while  he  is  going  around,  he  will  soon  find 
out  that  it  will  not  hurt  him,  and  will  stop  as  before. 

The  object  in  view,  in  handling  the  colt  with  the  pole,  is  to 
accustom  him  to  being  touched  all  over.  If  he  should  kick  or 
strike,  do  not  be  alarmed,  but  keep  the  end  or  side  of  the  pole 
touching  him  on  some  part  of  the  body  all  the  time.  While  he  is 
going  around  handle  his  front  and  hind  legs  with  this  pole,  being 
careful  at  the  same  time  not  to  hurt  him. 

It  will  take  from  three  to  five  minutes  to  accustom  the  colt  to 
being  handled  all  over  with  the  pole. 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HORSE.  27 

This  will  prepare  the  colt  for  the  harness.  Now,  while  he  is 
still  under  the  influence  of  this  whirling  around,  unfasten  his 
head  and  tail  and  put  on  the  harness  as  quick  as  possible. 

The  colt  will  stand  perfectly  quiet  for  two  reasons— first, 
"because  he  is  dizzy  from  whirling  around  ;  and,  second,  "because 
he  has  been  touched  all  over  with  the  pole,  and  the  touch  of  the 
strap  or  harness  will  not  frighten  him. 

I  use  a  common  set  of  harness,  with  a  common  jointed  bit. 
Have  the  bit  as  large  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  cut  and  scar  the 
colt's  mouth. 

Put  the  harness  on  the  colt  and  tie  the  traces  into  the  ring  of 
the  breeching,  and  instead  of  putting  the  lines  through  the  rings 
on  the  saddle,  put  them  through  the  shaft  tugs  and  fasten  them 
to  the  bit,  using  long  lines,  so  as  to  be  out  of  range  of  the  colt's 
heels_never  using  any  check-rein  in  breaking  a  colt. 

Now  you  are  ready  to  teach  your  colt  to  guide. 

The  lines  should  be  placed  in  this  manner,  so  as  to  give  us  a 
leverage  power  on  the  side  of  the  colt,  to  force  him  to  the  right  or 


No.  3. 
left.     Instead  of  attempting  to  make  him  go  straight  ahead,  first 
teach  him  to  turn  readily  to  the  right  or  left.     (See  cut  No.  3.) 
Instead  of  pulling  on  the  lines   slow  and  steady,  pull  with  a 


28  MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    HORSE. 

quick  jerk  on  one  line,  turning  the  horse  half  way  around,  then 
reverse.  This  will  teach  him  quickly  that  he  must  come  around 
when  you  pull  on  the  line.  Then  let  him  go  straight  ahead  or 
around  the  corral.  Every  little  while  turn  him  around  quick  and 
short,  forcing  him  to  go  the  other  way.  When  he  turns  easily 
and  readily  by  a  pull  on  the  line,  then  he  is  ready  to  be  taught  to 
stop  and  start  at  your  command. 

While  he  is  walking  or  trotting  around  the  corral,  say  "Whoa  \" 
Of  course  he  will  not  understand  what  this  means.  Then  pull  up 
sharply  and  quickly  on  both  lines.  Eepeat  this  until  the  colt 
will  stop  at  the  word  "  whoa."  This  will  generally  take  from  five 
to  ten  minutes. 

Secondly,  you  want  to  teach  your  colt  to  start  promptly  as  well 
as  to  stop  ;  this  you  can  do  by  touching  him  sharply  on  the  heels 
with  the  whip.  Always  use  common  sense  in  the  use  of  the  whip 
and  do  not  slash  and  welt  him  all  over  the  body.  You  had  better 
have  no  whip  at  all  than  to  use  it  injudiciously. 

When  you  command  a  horse  to  move  forward  never  repeat  the 
command,  and  if  he  refuses  to  start  promptly  then  touch  him 
keenly  on  the  heels  with  the  whip. 

Now,  your  colt  is  taught  to  turn  to  the  right  or  left,  and  stop 
readily  at  the  word  of  command.  And  when  he  does  stop  go  up 
to  his  side  quietly  and  gently,  pat  and  rub  him,  showing  to  him 
that  when  he  obeys  your  command  you  will  treat  him  kindly,  and 
if  he  refuses  to  obey,  you  will  pimish  him  by  jerking  the  lines. 

The  next  operation  with  the  colt  will  be  to  get  him  accustomed 
to  the  sound  or  crack  of  the  whip. 

This  you  can  do  in  a  very  few  minutes  by  taking  hold  of  the 
end  of  the  lines  in  one  hand,  cracking  and  snapping  the  whip 
with  the  other.  Allow  me  to  say  here,  that  your  lines  should  be 
sewed  together  and  not  buckled,  as  the  buckle  will  have  a  tend- 
ency to  tear  and  cut  your  hands. 


MANAGEMENT    OF    HORSE. 


29 


Every  time  the  colt  starts  forward  jerk  him  sharply  on  the 
lines,  and  he  will  soon  learn  to  stand  quietly  while  the  whip  is 
being  cracked  about  him. 

Every  time  he  stands  quietly  while  you  are  cracking  the  whip, 
approach  and  caress  him. 

When  this  is  accomplished  and  you  can  hold  him  with  perfect 
ease,  we  have  another  lesson  to  impart  to  him. 

Let  your  assistant  take  hold  of  the  long  pole  and  stand  in  the 
centre  of  the  corral,  while  you  drive  the  colt  around  him.  Have 
your  assistant  touch  him  quickly  on  any  part  of  the  body  with  the 
end  or  side  of  the  pole.     (See  cut  No.  4.) 


No.  4. 

This  will  represent  some  break-downs,  and  be  very  likely  to 
frighten  and  startle  the  colt  again. 

Stop  the  colt  as  soon  as  possible,  keeping  your  assistant  still 

touching  him  lightly  with  the  end  of  the  pole.     Start  up  your 

colt  again,  and  repeat  this  until  he  submits  being  touched  with 
the  pole. 

While  he  is  in  motion  walking  round  the  corral,  touch  him 


30 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    HORSE. 


lightly  with  the  pole  on  the  legs  and  belly,  getting  him  accus- 
tomed to  being  touched  all  over. 

This  lesson  is  to  prepare  him  for  receiving  the  shafts,  and  he 
should  be  handled  thoroughly  with  the  pole  in  every  place  where 
the  shafts  and  cross-bar  would  be  likely  to  touch  him,  even  in  the 
case  of  an  accident,  as  this  treatment  is  really  to  guard  against 
accidents  that  may  occur  at  any  time  after  he  is  hitched  up. 

Always  be  sure  that  you  can  hold  your  colt  when  he  is  excited 
or  frightened. 

Most  any  person  can  hold  hold  a  colt  that  will  not  try  to  get 
away ;  but  you  want  to  be  able  to  hold  him  when  he  is  trying 
his  best  to  get  away. 

After  the  colt  has  submitted  to  all  of  the  above  treatment  and 
goes  along  kindly  and  gently,  it  would  seem  as  though  he  was 
ready  to  be  hitched  up. 

You  will  bear  in  mind,  however,  that  thus  far  the  colt's  senses 
have  been  but  partially  educated.  Now  take  an  old  tin  can  of  any 
kind  that  will  make  a  noise  ;  tie  it  to  the  hair  of  his  tail  and 
allow  it  to  drag  behind  him,  so  as  to  accustom  him  to  the  rattling 
of  a  wagon  or  any  other  noise  likely  to  be  made  while  he  is  on  the 
road.     [See  cut  No.  5.] 


No.  5. 
Drive  him  around  on  a  walk  at  first,  then  in  a  trot.     If  he 
attempts  to  run  away,  stop  him  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  bring 
him  to  a  walk  again. 


MANAGEMENT    OP    THE   HORSE.  31 

Eepeat  this  lesson  until  the  colt  has  become  familiar  with  the 
noise  made  by  the  tin  can  tied  to  his  tail. 

Always  have  the  can  tied  far  enough  from  his  heels  so  it  will 
not  become  tangled  about  his  legs. 

The  next  lesson  to  teach  the  colt  will  be  that  of  becoming 
accustomed  to  the  sight  of  an  umbrella,,  or  anything  likely  to 
meet  his  gaze  suddenly  on  the  street  and  frighten  him. 

This  can  be  done  in  a  few  minutes  by  letting  your  assistant 
take  an  umbrella,  opening  it  suddenly  in  front  of  him  while  you 
are  driving  him  around  the  corral. 

If  he  whirls  and  attempts  to  run  away,  straighten  him  up 
quickly  with  your  lines  and  make  him  go  past  the  umbrella. 

Eepeat  this  until  he  becomes  accustomed  to  the  sight  of  the 
umbrella.  Then  we  have  him  educated  to  understand  the  sight, 
touch  and  sound. 

This  lesson  will  be  sufficient  for  the  first  day. 

If  the  colt,  during  this  training,  should  get  into  a  profuse 
perspiration,  before  putting  him  away  it  is  essential  that  he 
should  be  "  scraped  out"  and  rubbed  perfectly  dry,  and  good  care 
taken  to  prevent  his  catching  cold. 

The  next  day,  take  the  colt  into  the  corral  and  harness  him, 
and  commence  to  train  where  you  left  off,  driving  him  around, 
testing  him  with  pole  and  can. 

If  he  is  easily  handled  and  managed,  after  handling  him  a  few 
minutes,  he  will  be  ready  to  hitch  into  the  shafts  or  alongside  of 
another  horse,  as  the  trainer  may  think  best. 

"We  always  prefer  hitching  them  in  shafts  first  while  in  the 
training  yard. 

When  the  colt  is  hitched  to  the  cart,  as  explained  in  another 
part  of  this  book,  you  will  see  the  breeching  strap  is  not  fastened, 


d&  MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HORSE. 

but  hanging  loose,  as  represented  in  cut  No.  6.  This  is  done  so 
that  the  cross-bar  of  the  shafts  will  touch  him  when  he  stops,  in 
fact,  when  you  put  the  colt  in  the  shaft  for  the  first  time  you 
should  allow  the  cross-bars  to  touch  him,  and  if  it  seems  to  alarm 
him  he  needs  more  training  with  the  pole  before  he  is  hitched  in 
to  prepare  him  to  receive  this  unusual  touch  without  becoming 
frightened. 


No.  6. 
A  colt  handled  this  way  for  one  hour — say  half-an-hour  each 
day,  will  be  better  broken  and  safer  than  if  handled  in  a  gentle, 
quiet,  easy  manner  for  six  months. 

We  believe  that  it  is  necessary  to  test  the  colt  in  every  con- 
ceivable manner  before  risking  our  lives  behind  him  in  a  buggy 
or  a  wagon. 

On  the  same  principle,  the  boiler  on  a  steamboat  is  tested  by 
the  Government  Inspector,  by  putting  on  a  cold-water  pressure 
before  getting  up  steam,  to  ascertain  whether  the  boiler  has  the 
requisite  strength  to  resist  the  pressure  brought  to  bear  on  it  by 
future  use. 

If  it  will  stand  the  cold-water  pressure,  which  is  greater  than 
that  produced  by  steam,  the  Inspector  pronounces  it  safe,  and 
then,  and  not  until  then,  will  the  owners  be  permitted  to  get  up 
steam  and  run  the  vessel. 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE   HOBSE.  33 

On  the  same  principle,  we  consider  it  safer  to  "  test  the  colt " 
in  every  conceivable  manner  to  guard  against  serious  accidents 
that  are  likely  to  oceu*  every  day  with  a  colt  that  is  handled  in 
the  old  fashioned  way. 

When  the  trainer  has  hitched  the  colt  up,  and  is  driving  him 
on  the  road,  it  will  be  necessary,  for  a  few  days,  to  watch  his 
every  movement  closely. 

If  he  should  attempt   to    kick,    run,    or    do   anything  that  is 

objectionable  to  the   trainer,   punish   him  with   the   bit,    and    he 

will   soon  learn  to   act   right,   because  he  is   punished   only  when 
he  does  wrong. 

A  colt  will  often  kick,  strike  or  bite  as  a  means  of  protection 
to  himself,  and  not  because  he  is  naturally  vicious;  and  the 
trainer  must  remember  that  the  colt  was  not  made  for  the  har- 
ness, but  the  harness  was  made  for  the  colt. 

There  are  a  great  many  people  under  the  impression  that  the 
colt  was  made  for  the  saddle,  harness  and  bridle.  This  is  a 
mistaken  idea.  The  saddle,  harness  and  bridle  were  made  for 
the  colt  and  when  we  put  them  on  him,  we  violate  the  laws  of 
nature,  and  as  self-preservation  is  one  of  the  laws  of  nature,  the 
colt  may  kick  or  attempt  to  run  in  order  to  protect  himself. 

In  order  to  illustrate  this,  we  will  say  : 

If  a  fly  should  alight  on  the  horse's  neck  he  will  shake  his 
head  to  remove  it  ;  if  it  alights  on  his  breast  he  will  put  his 
mouth  down  to  bite  it  off  ;  should  it  alight  on  the  side  of  his 
body,  he  will  put  his  head  around  to  do  the  same  thing ;  if  on  his 
front  leg,  he  wiU  stamp  his  foot  on  the  ground  quickly;  if  it 
alights  on  his  rump,  he  will  switch  his  tail  and  sometimes  kick 
up;  if  on  the  hind  leg,  he  will  kick  with  his  hind  foot  to 
remove  it. 

If  we  take  a  pin  and  prick  him  lightly,  he  will  do  the  same  as 
he  did  to  remove  the  fly. 


c 


34  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    HOESE. 

So  that  should  any  other  object  touch  him  lie  is  likely  to  do 
the  same  in  order  to  protect  himself.  Hence  the  necessity  of 
accustoming  the  colt  to  the  sense  of  feeling,  hearing  and  seeing, 
as  directed  in  the  preceding  lesson. 

The  writer  is  of  the  opinion  that  every  colt  and  horse,  let  him 
be  ever  so  gentle,  should  be  drilled  as  directed  in  the  above 
lesson. 

While  operating  with  a  very  bad  kicking  horse  in  Peru, 
Indiana,  after  driving  him  around  in  the  cart  a  few  minutes, 
standing  upon  the  axle-tree  and  holding  the  kicking  horse  by  the 
tail  (see  cut  No.  7,  p.  39)  one  of  the  members  of  my  class,  a  well- 
known  banker,  said  he  did  not  believe  his  horse  would  stand  to 
be  driven  that  way.  I  invited  him  to  bring  his  horse  out  the  next 
day  before  the  class,  and  I  would  try  him.  This  horse  was  considered 
verv  quiet  and  gentle,  but  the  banker  wanted  to  have  the  pressure 
put  on,  so  he  brought  him  out  the  next  day,  and,  after  giving  the 
horse  a  thorough  training,  according  to  my  method,  the  banker  said  : 

"  I  always  thought  he  was  gentle,  but  now  I  know  it." 

A  Pennsylvanian  with  whom  I  was  personally  acquainted,  who  was 
considered  a  good  horseman,  and  who  employed  a  careful,  pains- 
taking young  man,  concluded  to  break  his  colt. 

The  farmer  directed  his  man  John  to  be  very  kind,  easy  and  gentle 
with  the  colt,  and  not  to  let  him  step  over  the  traces,  nor  to  have  the 
singletree  touch  him,  for  fear  of  frightening  and  causing  him  to  run 
away. 

John  followed  all  the  directions  given  concerning  the  manage- 
ment of  the  colt,  never  even  allowing  him  to  step  over  the  traces, 
nor  letting  the  singletree,  or  any  portion  of  the  harness,  hang 
loosely  and  strike  him.  If  John,  while  driving  the  colt,  saw  any  un- 
usual object,  on  the  roadside,  he  would  take  particular  pains  to 
drive  out  of  sight  of  the  object  for  fear  of  the  colt  becoming 
frightened  at  the  sight  of  it. 

He  would  also  take  special  care  never  to  approach  the  railroad 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HOESE.  35 

depot  or  flour  mill  for  fear  the  unusual  noise  and  rattling  of  the  cars 
and  machinery  would  startle  the  colt,  causing  him  to  attempt  to  run 
for  home,  and  perhaps  breaking  the  cart. 

In  fact,  John  would  never  permit  the  colt  to  approach  an 
object  near  enough  to  understand  the  nature  of  it,  nor  to  have 
the  harness  or  tugs  touch  him  about  the  feet  or  between  his  legs, 
to  prevent  any  liability  of  his  kicking.  Neither  would  he  let 
him  go  near  any  place  or  object  where  he  would  hear  any  unusual 
noise. 

Having  handled  and  driven  the  colt  in  this  gentle  and  careful 
old-fashioned  manner  for  about  a  year,  the  old  gentlemen  con- 
sidered him  perfectly  broken,  and  as  being  a  kind  and  safe  animal 
that  had  never  yet  kicked  or  ran  away. 

The  following  season  he  had  another  colt  to  break,  and  John  was 
given  the  task. 

The  first  colt  broken,  being  considered  thoroughly  trained,  was 
given  to  a  new  hand  to  do  plowing  with. 

This  colt  accidentally  stepped  over  the  tug,  by  which  act  the  tug 
was  forced  against  the  inside  of  his  legs,  where  as  yet  he  had  never 
been  touched  by  any  object. 

The  consequence  of  his  being  touched  in  this  unhandled  part 
was  that  he  got  frightened,  and,  obeying  the  impulse  of  Ms 
nature,  kicked  out  at  the  objectionable  tug  in  self-preservation, 
and  started  off  at  a  run  to  free  himself  from  his  imaginary 
danger. 

The  old  gentleman,  on  seeing  the  fleeing  horse,  with  fragments  of 
the  harness  dangling  about  him,  was  naturally  amazed  to  see  the  colt 
that  during  all  the  year  in  which  he  had  been  handled  and  driven  by 
John,  and  had  never  shown  a  disposition  to  kick  or  run  away,  acting 
in  such  a  manner. 

He  had  been  impressed  with  the  idea  that  the  colt  was  perfectly 
trained  and  gentle. 


36  MANAGEMENT   OF   THE   HOKSE. 

His  next  though t,  on  seeing  the  frightened  steed,  was  to  abuse  the 
unfortunate  man  who  had  been  using  him,  and  blaming  him  for  the 
damage  done,  which  he  himself  was  really  to  blame  for. 

Had  the  colt  been  put  through  the  preparatory  course  of  training 
which  I  have  suggested  under  the  head  of  "  How  to  Break  a  Colt 
Properly,"  he  never  would  have  become  frightened  and  kicked  himself 
free  from  the  plow,  injuring  his  limbs,  learning  a  bad  trick,  and 
causing  other  damage. 

Many  would  agree  with  the  old  gentleman  in  thinking  it  was  the 
carelessness  of  his  man,  in  letting  the  colt  step  over  the  trace,  which 
caused  this  accident  and  all  the  trouble. 

The  writer  will  at  once  proceed  to  place  the  blame  where  it  justly 
belongs — on  the  old  gentleman. 

He  should  have  said  to  John  : 

"  John,  I  Icnoio  you  are  a  good  horseman  ;  take  this  colt  out  in  the 
lot,  put  the  harness  on  him,  and  accustom  him  to  everything  before 
you  hitch  him  up — or,  in  other  words,  *  Sample-ize'  him,  by  putting 
things  between  his  legs,  tying  tin  cans  to  his  tail,  fire-crackers,  or 
anything  that  would  have  a  tendency  to  frighten  him."  We  are  fully 
satisfied,  had  this  been  done,  the  accident  would  never  have  occurred 
from  the  colt's  simply  stepping  over  the  trace. 

A  EUNAWAY  HOKSE. 

First  find  out,  if  possible,  what  caused  him  to  run  away  ;  and 
when  the  trainer  has  found  out,  take  him  into  the  lot  or  corral  and 
tie  him,  head  and  tail,  with  the  halter,  and  handle  him  with  the  pole, 
as  directed  in  the  lesson  for  training  the  colt.  Whatever  has  been 
the  cause  of  his  running  away  will  frighten  him  the  most,  so  that  it 
will  be  necessary  to  operate  more  on  this  point  than  any  of  the 
others  ;  and  when  he  submits  to  the  sense  of  feeling,  seeing  and 
hearing,  put  the  harness  on  as  directed  in  the  lesson  on  the  colt,  and 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HOKSE.  37 

handle  him  in  the  same  manner  as  the  colt  was  handled,  until  you 
can  hold  him  by  the  lines  with  perfect  ease,  while  the  assistant  is  ex- 
citing him  with  the  pole,  umbrella,  or  any  other  object  which  would 
have  a  tendency  to  make  him  run  away. 

The  trainer  will  remember  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  get  the 
mouth  so  that  he  can  hold  him  with  perfect  ease  before  undertaking 
to  excite  him  to  resistance. 

At  this  point  we  will  state  that  there  is  no  man  who  can  hold  a 
horse  by  main  strength  ;  hence  the  necessity  of  giving  him  thorough 
training  with  the  lines  and  bit,  as  directed  in  the  training  of  the  colt's 
mouth. 

Teach  the  horse  to  start  and  stop  well,  even  under  excitement,  and 
repeat  this  lesson  two  or  three  times  before  hitching  him  up. 

In  ordinary  cases  this  will  take  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  to 
give  the  horse  a  good  lesson — always  being  careful  to  take  good  care 
of  your  horse  on  concluding  your  lesson. 

KICKING   HOESES. 

A  kicking  horse  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  horses  we  have,  and  in 
a  very  bad  ease  is  considered  almost  worthless. 

While  I  was  travelling  through  Eichmond,  Virginia,  a  very  ugly 
kicking  mare  was  brought  to  me,  that  had  been  traded  from  stable  to 
stable  until  she  was  considered  as  worth  very  little  money. 

A  gentleman — one  of  my  scholars — asked  me  one  day  if  I  thought 
she  could  be  broke,  and  I  replied  : 

"  Yes — certainly  she  can." 

I  think  she  was  one  of  the  worst  mares  I  ever  came  across  in  my 
travels  of  over  eighteen  years. 

I  gave  her  a  short  lesson  lasting  thirty  minutes,  every  day  for  a 
week,  and  some  of  my  scholars  began  to  talk  as  though  my  plans 
would  not  work  on  her. 


38  MANAGEMENT    OF   THE   HOESE. 

On  the  seventh  day  she  gave  up,  and  I  told  her  owner  to  take 
her  and  hitch  her  up  and  drive  her,  which  he  did. 

He  drove  her  himself  for  about  one  week.  I  stayed  in  Richmond 
four  weeks,  and  when  I  left  there  his  man  was  driving  her  all  oyer 
the  city,  delivering  groceries. 

Another  had  kicker  in  Virginia,  I  met  at  Woodstock,  where  I 
formed  a  class. 

The  subject  furnished  me  to  handle  was  a  gray  horse,  fifteen  years 
old,  that  the  owner  told  me  had  been  kicking  all  his  life,  and  had 
been  traded  round  from  one  horseman  to  another,  until  it  was  con- 
sidered impossible  to  drive  him  in  harness. 

We  commenced  with  this  horse  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
before  the  class,  and  worked  with  him  until  six  o'clock  in  the  even- 
ing. Myself  and  assistant  worked  on  him  faithfully,  using  our  best 
efforts,  and  some  of  the  class  went  off  with  the  impression,  when  we 
adjourned  at  six  o'clock,  that  he  never  could  be  broken. 

The  owner  of  the  horse,  a  hotelkeeper,  and  others  who  were  deeply 
interested,  turned  out  again  the  next  morning  to  see  us  handle  the 
horse. 

When  we  commenced  on  him — after  putting  on  the  harness — every 
time  we  would  touch  him  with  the  pole  he  would  kick,  and  every 
time  he  would  kick  wre  would  punish  him  with  the  bit,  until  finally, 
after  a  hard  fight  of  two  hours,  resting  occasionally  to  get  our  wind, 
he  quit  kicking,  to  the  great  astonishment  of  all  present  except  myself 
and  assistant. 

We  drove  the  horse,  without  breeching,  to  a  two-wheeled  cart, 
standing  on  the  axle  and  holding  the  horse  by  the  tail.  (See  cut 
No.  7.] 

Every  time  we  stopped  him,  the  cross-bar  of  the  shafts  would 
bump  up  against  him.  This  was  in  the  fall  of  1876,  during  the  Presi- 
dential campaign.      • 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HORSE.'  39 

I  was  advertised  to  perform  at  Stanton  the  next  day,  and  had  to 
leave  "Woodstock. 

While  in  Stanton,  I  got  a  letter  from  the  owner  of  the  gray  kicking 
horse  of  Woodstock,  stating  that  he  had  driven  the  horse,  with  his 
family  in  the  wagon,  and  if  I  would  return  to  Woodstock  he  would 
give  me  a  certificate  that  would  carry  me  triumphantly  through  the 
valley. 

I  relate  these  two  extreme  cases  for  the  purpose  of  encouraging  the 
trainer,  should  he  meet  with  such  brutes  as  I  have  mentioned. 

No  matter  how  mean  and  obstinate  they  may  be,  you  can  conquer 
them   by   persevering   in    this   treatment,    and   the    average    kicking 


No.  7. 
horse,  by  this  treatment,  can  be  controlled  in  from  thirty  to  forty 
minutes. 

We  could  mention  hundreds  of  such  cases,  but  have  selected  these 
two  because  they  were  the  worst  we  have  met  in  all  of  our  travels. 

The  horses  above  mentioned  should  receive  the  same  treatment  as 
recommended  for  the  breaking  of  the  colt. 

In  fact,  there  is  but  one  way  to  break  a  horse  of  any  bad  habit  in 
harness,  and  that  is  to  treat  him  kind  and  gently  when  he  does  all 
that  we  require  of  him,  and  punish  him  when  he  refuses. 


40  MANAGEMENT   OP   THE    HOESE. 


BALKY    HOESES. 


The  balky  horse  is  one  that  will  try  the  horseman's  skill,  power, 
ability  and  temper,  more  than  all  the  kicking,  runaway,  bucking, 
striking,  biting,  and  shying  horses,  or  any  other  kind  of  horse  that  we 
can  think  of. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  balky  horses. 

There  are  those  that  will  not  go  in  any  harness,  light  or  heavy. 

Then,  again,  there  are  horses  willing  to  go  in  a  light  vehicle,  but 
will  refuse  to  pull  an  ordinary  load.  There  are  some  that  are  hard  to 
start  from  the  stable  or  lot,  but  will  go  along  all  day  after  they  are 
started  ;  there  are  horses  willing  to  go  straight  ahead  on  a  road,  but 
if  you  wish  to  turn  them  to  the  right  or  left,  they  will  stop — these 
we  call  "  bridle  balkers." 

In  fact,  any  horse  is  a  balky  horse  when  he  refuses  to  go  when  and 
where  we  direct  him  to  go.  To  break  him  and  make  him  a  true  and 
valuable  horse,  we  will  begin  with  him  the  same  as  though  he  was  a 
green  colt,  and  put  him  through  the  same  training  and  lessons  as  are 
directed  in  breaking  the  colt,  always  being  careful  to  keep  the  point 
we  gain  in  working  with  him,  until  we  have  the  complete  mastery 
over  him  on  that  point,  never  expecting  him  to  pull  all  he  is  able  to 
at  the  first  lesson,  but  beginning  with  a  light  load,  and  gradually 
increasing  it  until  he  gains  confidence  in  himself.  Then  he  will  pull 
all  that  any  ordinary  horse  ought  to  pull. 

The  first  point  to  be  gained  with  a  balky  horse  in  giving  him  his 
lesson,  is  to  teach  him  to  start  and  stop,  turn  to  the  right  or  left,  go 
forward  or  backward  at  the  command  of  the  trainer.  This  you  want 
him  to  do  before  you  hitch  him  to  the  cart.  And  when  you  do  hitch 
him  in,  be  careful  not  to  have  the  cart  too  heavy.  A  two-wheel  cart 
is  the  best. 

The  kind  of  cart  I  use  in  hitching  the  colt  or  horse  to  the  first  time 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HOBSE.  41 

is  simply  two  wheels  and  an  axle,  without  any  seat,  and  a  good  pair  of 
buggy  or  express-wagon  shafts.  This  cart  will  be  illustrated  in  cut 
No.  7,  page  39,  showing  the  breaking  of  the  colt. 

We  never  use  this  cart  except  in  the  training-yard,  and  then  for  the 
purpose  of  getting  the  colt  used  to  shafts  and  load. 

We  can  teach  the  horse  to  pull  by  strapping  one  of  the  wheels  to 
the  shaft,  after  he  goes  well  with  the  wheels  loose.  Sometimes  we 
fasten  both  wheels  in  this  way,  and  we  can  increase  the  weight  as  we 
feel  disposed,  by  tying  an  empty  sack  to  the  axle,  and  throwing  in  a 
shovel  or  two  of  sand  or  dirt  at  a  time,  in  proportion  to  the  amount 
that  the  horse  will  draw.  In  this  way,  the  wheels  being  locked,  we 
can  make  as  heavy  a  load  as  necessary,  by  adding  sand  and  dirt  to  the 
sack.  Stop  and  start  the  horse  often  while  hitched  in  this  way, 
always  encouraging  him  by  kind  treatment  when  he  obeys  promptly. 

When  you  come  to  a  hill,  or  any  place  where  the  horse  refuses  to 
go,  after  making  a  short  effort  to  start  him,  should  he  still  refuse, 
take  him  right  out  of  the  cart  or  vehicle,  put  the  lines  through  the 
shaft-tugs  and  drive  him  up  and  down  the  hill  and  all  around  the 
place  he  refuses  to  pass  with  the  cart. 

By  passing  the  lines  through  the  shaft-tugs  you  are  able  to  keep 
his  head  from  you  and  his  tail  toward  you,  thus  preventing  him  from 
turning  around  and  twisting  the  lines  out  of  your  hands.  Should 
you  leave  the  lines  through  the  rings  of  the  saddle  as  they  were 
when  you  were  driving  in  the  cart,  he  would  perhaps  whirl  around 
and  twist  the  lines  around  his  body  and  out  of  your  hands,  and  in 
some  cases  get  away  and  give  you  considerable  trouble. 

While  in  Chambersburg,  Penn.,  a  very  eminent  physician  brought 
a  balky  horse  to  me  to  have  him  broke.  After  giving  the  horse  one 
lesson,  my  assistant  was  driving  him  on  the  road  hitched  to  a  buggy, 
and  he  stopped  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  refusing  to  go  any  further. 


42  MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    HORSE 

He  took  the  horse  out  of  the  shafts  and  fixed  the  lines  as  directed 
above,  and  drove  him  up  and  down  the  hill  several  times.  At  this 
moment  the  doctor  happened  to  come  along  and  asked  him  what  he 
was  doing  with  the  horse.     He  replied  : 

"  I  can  manage  the  horse  better  than  I  can  the  horse  and  buggy, 
hence  I  leave  the  buggy  on  the  roadside  until  I  can  get  the  horse  to 
go  without  it.  In  other  words,  if  the  horse  refuses  to  go  when  there 
is  no  buggy  hitched  to  him,  there  is  no  use  to  hitch  him  to  it.  Always 
break  your  horse  first  and  the  buggy  afterwards,  and  never  undertake 
to  break  the  horse  and  buggy  at  the  same  time." 

In  conclusion,  we  would  say  that  this  is  the  simplest  and  most 
lasting  way  to  manage  a  balky  horse. 

We  could  give  various  methods  for  starting  the  horse  as  laid  down 
by  other  trainers,  but  to  start  a  horse  when  he  is  "  balked,"  or  to  make 
him  pull  at  one  time,  will  not  make  him  start  or  pull  at  all  times. 

We  must  be  able  to  teach  the  horse  that  he  is  what  he  was  intended 
to  be,  man's  willing  and  obedient  servant  at  all  times  and  places  and 
under  all  circumstances. 

In  a  figurative  way  of  expressing  it,  we  must  make  him  believe  that 
we  can  put  him  through  a  knot-hole,  and  when  we  get  him  through  the 
plank,  show  him  by  our  actions  that  we  are  not  only  his  master,  but 
also  his  best  friend. 

HOW  TO  BREAK  A  BAD  HALTER-PULLER. 

Of  all  the  objectionable  tricks  and  bad  habits  the  horse  is  subject 
to,  one  of  the  worst  is  that  of  pulling  back  or  "  halter-breaking," 
and  has,  perhaps,  been  the  cause  of  a  greater  number  of  accidents 
than  any  other,  and  causing  the  destruction  of  numberless  bridles, 
halters,  &c. 

To  break  a  horse  of  this  habit  properly  and  for  all  time,  the  first 
thing  would  be  to  investigate   the  cause,  or  why  the  horse  pulls  back 


MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    HORSE. 


43 


on  the  halter.  His  natural  instinct  is  to  refuse  to  be  held  by  the 
head.  When  the  animal's  head  is  fastened  he  will  make  an  effort  to 
get  loose,  and  as  long  as  he  finds  he  is  successful  in  getting  loose  he 
will  continue  to  do  so.  Therefore,  should  he  set  back  on  the  halter 
and  attempt  to  get  loose — his  head  being  in  a  trap  prepared  for  him 
by  the  art  of  man — he  will  naturally  pull  to  get  his  head  out,  and  if 
any  part  of  the  halter  should  give  way  or  break,  his  head  will  become 
free,  and  every  time  he  gets  free  by  pulling,  he  will  be  encouraged  to 
pull  harder  the  next  time,  until  it  will  take  a  very  strong  halter  to 
hold  him,  especially  if  he  is  a  large,  heavy  horse. 

There  are  various  plans  devised  for  the  breaking  of  this  habit. 


No.  8. 

Cut  No.  8  represents  a  horse  pulling  on  the  halter  while  fastened 
according  to  my  method  of  breaking  this  habit.  Take  a  half -inch 
rope  fifteen  feet  long  ;  double  about  one-half  of  it,  and  put  the 
doubled  end  of  it  under  the  tail  for  a  crupper,  wrapping  a  piece 
of  cloth  around  the  crupper  part  to  prevent  the  rope  cutting  his 
tail. 

Pass  the  longest  end  of  the  rope  around  his  neck  from  the  off  side 
to  the  near  side ;  tie  it  to  the  short  end  in  a  flat  knot  on  the  near 
•side,  and  have  the  knot  come  about  where  you  buckle  the  girth  of  the 
harness.     Then  take  the  long  end   and  place  it  under  the  belly  and 


44  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE    HORSE. 

tie  it  to  the  rope  on  the  off  side.  This  will  make  a  girth  or  belly- 
band  to  prevent  it  from  slipping  up.  When  the  rope  is  placed  on 
in  this  way,  as  shown  in  cut  No.  8,  put  on  a  strong  rope  or  leather 
halter  ;  take  the  lead  of  the  halter,  running  it  through  a  ring  in  the 
manger,  tree,  or  side  of  the  building.  After  running  the  lead  of  the 
halter  through  the  ring  fastened  to  either  of  the  places  named,  tie 
the  end  of  the  lead  to  the  rope  in  front  of  his  chest,  as  shown  in 
the  cut. 

Now  the  horse  is  not  only  hitched  by  the  head,  but  to  the  rope 
running  under  the  tail  also  ;  and  when  he  starts  to  pull,  the  lead  of 
the  halter  will  slip  through  the  ring.  The  rope  will  then  catch  him 
under  the  tail,  and  he  will  soon  jump  forward  to  relieve  the  pressure 
under  the  tail.  "When  he  does  this,  go  up  to  his  side  near  his  head, 
patting  him  gently  on  the  neck,  allowing  him  to  stand  a  few  minutes ; 
then  take  a  cane  or  stick,  and  running  up  quickly  to  frighten  him 
back  again,  and  should  he  run  back,  strike  heavily  on  the  lead  of  the 
halter  in  front  of  his  head  until  he  jumps  forward. 

When  he  comes  forward  again  treat  him  kindly  as  before,  repeat- 
ing this  operation  several  times  until  he  refuses  to  pull  back.  If 
the  horse  is  afraid  of  an  umbrella,  blanket  or  anything  of  that  kind 
run  towards  him  with  the  object  in  your  hands  and  try  to  frighten  him 
back,  and  when  he  comes  forward  repeat  the  rubbing  on  the  neck  as 
before,  or  until  the  horse  refuses  to  pull  or  tighten  on  the  halter. 
After  this  lesson  he  can  be  hitched  at  night  in  the  stable  without  any 
danger  of  hurting  himself. 

This  treatment  will  break  the  most  confirmed  "  halter-puller " 
in  existence,  after  giving  him  a  lesson  lasting  half  an  hour  as  above  for 
one  or  two  days. 


MANAGEMENT   01    THE    HORSE. 


45 


If  he  pulls  on  the  bridle  and  not  on  the  halter,  make  a  strong  rope 
bridle  and  hitch  the  same  with  the  bridle  as  you  do  for  "  halter- 
pulling,"  by  running  the  rope  lines  through  the  ring  and  tie  to  the 
rope  in  front  of  the  chest. 

DIFFERENT    DISPOSITIONS   AND    TEMPERA- 
MENTS OF  THE  HORSE. 

The  lesson  on  the  management  and  training  of  the  colt  and  horse 
would  be  incomplete  without  calling  the  attention  of  the  pupil  to 
their  different  temperaments  and  dispositions. 

While  all  horses  are  governed  by  the  same  fixed  laws  and  instincts, 
their  temperaments  and  dispositions  are  as  varied  and  numerous  as 
those  in  man. 


No.  9. 


Some  are  naturally  very  quiet  and  gentle  in  their  dispositions,  so 
much  so  that  it  would  appear  as  though  they  would  never  do  any- 
thing wrong,  but,  by  improper  management  on  the  part  of  the  trainer 


46  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    HOESE 

or  owner,  they  may  become  so  vicious  and  bad  as  to  make  them  almost 
as  worthless  as  the  horse  Cognac,  well  known  all  over  California,  that 
became  so  vicious  and  unmanageable,  that  when  he  got  loose  and  out 
of  his  stall,  on  the  Fair  Grounds  of  Petaluma,  Sonoma  County,  he 
killed  a  man  who  undertook  to  return  him  to  his  stall. 

This  horse  at  one  time  was  as  tractable  and  gentle  as  it  was  possible 
for  a  horse  to  be,  but  by  the  improper  treatment  he  suffered  at  the 
hands  of  his  groom  while  in  Illinois,  he  became  very  vicious  and  un- 
manageable. 

The  groom,  in  order  to  show  the  intelligence  of  the  horse,  would 
put  his  arm  up  to  the  horse's  mouth,  coaxing  him  to  take  hold  of  it, 
in  the  same  way  as  is  often  done  by  foolish  people,  who  are  not 
thoroughly  conversant  with  the  habits  of  the  horse.  In  doing  this, 
the  groom  succeeded  in  getting  the  horse  to  bite,  or  pinch  him,  on  the 
arm,  with  his  teeth. 

One  day  Cognac  bit  him  harder  than  usual.  This  enraged  the 
groom,  and  he  took  the  horse  out  of  the  stable  and  began  to  whip  him 
in  an  unmerciful  manner  about  the  body  and  legs,  until  the  horse  lay 
down,  squealing  from  the  pain  inflicted  by  the  groom.  And  when  he 
got  up,  the  once  gentle  and  kindly-disposed  horse  was  transformed 
into  a  demon,  with  a  disposition  to  eat  up  and  destroy  his  master,  who 
had  wantonly  and  cruelly  beat  him,  or  any  one  who  attempted  to 
manage  him. 

It  was  considered,  by  numerous  judges,  that  this  horse  had  no 
sense,  as  the  term  is  generally  used  among  horsemen,  but  the  writer 
looks  upon  this  horse  as  having  more  sense  than  if  he  had  allowed  the 
groom  to  punish  him  wantonly  and  cruelly  for  doing  that  which  he 
— the  groom — had  taught  him  to  do,  without  making  an  effort  to 
retaliate. 

I  was  in  Chicago  in  1880,  and  my  attention  was  called  to 
another  very   bad   horse,  called   the    Duke  of    Normandy,  that  had 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HOESE.  47 

previously  got  his  groom  under  his  knees  and  chewed   hirn  up,  and 
had  crippled  and  injured  several  other  men. 

He  wa3  led  about  from  one  stand  to  another  by  a  jockey-stick, 
fastened  to  the  bit,  in  order  to  prevent  his  jumping  on  the  groom  and 
killing  him. 

If  the  groom,  having  him  in  charge,  should  get  on  his  back  to  ride 
him,  he  would  reach  around  and  bile  him  on  the  leg,  consequently 
they  were  obliged  to  walk  and  lead  him. 

The  owner  of  this  horse  lived  at  Norwood  Park,  about  eleven  miles 
from  Chicago.  I  went  one  day  to  see  him  concerning  his  horse,  and, 
in  the  course  of  conversation,  I  found  that  the  horse  would  make  a 
good  subject  to  handle  before  my  claas,  and  the  gentleman  had  him 
brought  to  my  tent  in  Chicago,  and  in  less  than  forty  minutes  from 
the  time  I  began  to  handle  him,  the  owner  was  on  his  back,  riding 
around  the  ring,  and  the  horse  was  perfectly  gentle  and  quiet.  I 
hitched  this  horse  to  a  buggy  and  drove  all  through  the  city  of 
Chicago,  with  perfect  safety,  also  turned  him  loose  in  my  ring  and 
had  him  follow  me  around,  without  halter  or  bridle,  perfectly  quiet 
and  gentle. 

This  horse  was  about  seventeen  hands  high  and  weighed  eighteen 
hundred  pounds,  and  was  naturally  of  a  mild,  even  temper. 

On  investigating  the  early  history  of  this  horse,  I  learned  that  he 
was  imported  from  France  at  the  age  of  two  years,  and  was  perfectly 
kind  and  gentle  until  he  was  spoiled  by  the  unskillful  management  of 
his  groom. 

We  could  mention  many  such  cases  of  good-tempered  horses,  having 
been  ruined  and  made  ugly  by  mismanagement  on  the  part  of  grooms 
and  others. 

Then  again  there  are  other  horses  that  are  naturally  stupid,  sullen, 
and  of  treacherous  dispositions.     (See  cut  No.  10.) 

These  horses  will  require  very  little  aggravation  at  the  hands  of 
the  trainer  in  order  to  draw  out  their  mean  traits. 


48 


MANAGEMENT    OP    THE    HORSE. 


If  they  are  of  the  balky  or  sullen  order,  great  pains  should  be  taken 
by  the  trainer  to  overcome  this  as  much  as  possible  by  studying  how 
to  get  the  best  of  them,  and  not  allowing  them  to  gain  any  points. 


No.  10. 

They  will  often  attempt,  while  the  trainer  is  handling  them,  to  do 
just  the  reverse  of  what  is  required  of  them.  This  we  must  never 
allow  them  to  do,  but  must  work  on  that  point  constantly  and  firmly 
until  they  do  as  we  are  trying  to  teach  them.  Always  treat  the  horse 
with  kindness  when  he  does  that  which  we  demand  of  him.  If  he  is 
of  a  treacherous  disposition,  be  very  careful  and  see  that  he  gets  no 
advantage  of  you.  Always  be  sure  that  you  have  every  advantage  on 
your  side. 

Some  people  are  of  the  opinion  that  a  horse  knows  when  you  are 
afraid  of  him.  He  knows  nothing  about  your  thoughts.  He 
only  knows  what  you  can  do  with  him,  and  if  you  should  under- 
take to  handle  him  and  he  finds  out  by  experience  that  he 
can  handle  you,,  he  will  continue  to  do  so  as  long  as  he  finds  your 
inability  to  force    his   submission.      As  soon  as  he  finds  your 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    HORSE. 


49 


ability  to  force  submission  lie  will  yield  at  once  to  your  commands. 
I  have  handled  hundreds  of  horses  and  made  them  perfectly  sub- 
missive when  I  have  been  very  much  afraid  of  them.  I  have 
heard  men  say  they  never  saw  a  horse  they  were  afraid  of.  A  man 
that  will  stand  behind  a  horse  and  let  him  kick  his  head  off  has 
not  as  much  sense  as  the  horse.  Always  use  great  care  and 
judgment  in  handling  horses  like  the  ones  I  have  alluded  to. 

There  is  another  class  of  horses  that  are  of  a  nervous  and  high- 
strung  temperament  [see  cut  No.  11],  that  will  fight  and  resist 


No.  11. 

every  effort  to  confine  :them.  While  in  San  Bernardino,  Cali- 
fornia, I  came  across  a  horse  of  this  kind.  He  had  been  caught 
up  wild,  and  resisted  every  effort  made  to  domesticate  him. 

When  I  commenced  to  handle  him  in  the  way  and  manner  I 
have  laid  down  in  the  lesson  for  training  the.  colt,  he  acted  more 
like  a  hyena  than  a  horse.     Some  of  my  class  said  he  was  crazy, 
D 


50  MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HORSE. 

or  "  loco  "as  it  is  expressed  in  that  locality — this  is  a  Spanish 
word  for  crazy.  One  of  the  class  said  he  knew  the  band  from 
which  this  colt  was  taken  and  that  every  one  of  them  was  "  loco." 

After  I  had  handled  him  about  thirty  minutes  he  gave  up  the 
fight  from  the  fact  that  he  found  out  I  was  not  going  to  hurt  him. 
The  next  day  I  drove  him  on  the  streets  and  he  acted  like  a  good, 
sensible  horse,  and  showed  no  signs  of  being  "  loco." 

When  I  first  came  to  California  advocating  my  new  system, 
there  were  quite  a  number  of  good  horsemen  who  said  : 

Perhaps  this  man  can  handle  the  Eastern  horses  that  are  do- 
mesticated, but  we  don't  think  he  will  meet  with  much  success  in 
handling  our  "broncos." 

But  after  staying  in  Los  Angeles  six  weeks,  handling  their 
"  broncos,"  and  driving  them  through  town  with  tin  cans  tied  to 
their  tails,  they  became  satisfied  that  my  system  would  break 
wild  horses  as  well  as  those  domesticated,  as  this  article  of  Janu- 
ary 2d,  1882,  from  the  Los  Angeles  Times,  will  prove : 

The  citizens  of  Los  Angeles  witnessed  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing processions  that  has  paraded  the  streets  of  this  city  for  many 
a  day,  yesterday.  For  some  time  past  Professor  Sample  has  been 
in  this  city  teaching  the  lovers  of  that  noble  animal,  the  horse, 
how  to  train  him.  From  the  exhibition  yesterday  it  was  fully 
proven  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  skeptical  that  Sample  is  the 
most  thorough  horse-trainer  in  the  United  States,  if  not  in  the 
world.  The  owners  of  the  horses  in  the  procession  will  testify 
that  less  than  thirty  days  ago  every  animal  was  ungovernable  to 
a  considerable  extent.  But  the  reader,  if  he  saw  the  parade, 
noticed  that  every  horse  was  led  by  boys  not  over  twelve  years  of  age. 
This  is  proof  positive  that  every  man  should  understand  the  modus 
operandi  of  taming  horses.  The  procession  started  from  Temple- 
street  stable  about  12  o'clock  noon,  and  marched  through  the 
principal  streets.  The  Professor  led  the  caravan,  seated  in  a  fine 
buggy  drawn  by  two  magnificent  black  horses.      The  City  Band 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    HORSE.  51 

followed:  then  came  the  riproaring  mustangs  that  had  been 
trained.  The  first  one  had  a  motto  on  his  sides  which  read  :  « I 
was  the  boss  of  Denker's  ranch,  but  Sample  got  the  best  of  me." 
Then  followed  nine  horses  with  mottoes  which  read  like  this  :  ei  I 
was  the  bucking  bronco,  that  had  my  tail  full  of  cuckle  burrs  and 
I  have  been  Sampled;"  -I  was  a  nullifier,  but  have  been  con- 
quered ;"  « I  was  Wild  Bill  of  Temple-street  stable ;"  « I  was 
the  worst  pill  in  the  box,  but  Sample  got  the  best  of  me  ;"  I  was 
a  balker,  but  Sample  made  me  go  ;"  «  I  wouldn't  back,  but  I  do 
now ;"  « I  am  the  one  that  crippled  my  master  and  killed  my 
mate,  but  will  never  do  it  again."  The  last  one  had  :  "I  was  a 
high  kicker,  but  Sample  took  it  all  out  of  me." 

TO  BREAK  A  HORSE   THAT   IS   AFRAID    OF  A 
LOCOMOTIVE. 

A  horse  that  is  afraid  of  a  locomotive  is  a  very  unpleasant  kind 
of  horse  to  drive,  and  can  be  broken  of  the  habit  in  a  short  time. 
One  of  the  instincts  of  the  horse  is  to  be  afraid  of  anything  he 
does  not  understand ;  in  fact,  fear,  either  directly  or  indirectly, 
is  the  cause  of  all  bad  habits. 

The  natural  instinct  of  the  horse  is  to  follow  after  any  object 
he  may  not  understand,  providing  the  object  is  moving  from 
him;  therefore,  instead  of  forcing  the  horse  up  to  the°object 
when  it  is  moving  toward  him,  be  it  locomotive  or  what  not,  get 
the  horse  in  a  position  that  you  can  ride  or  drive  him  after 
the  object. 

If  he  is  afraid  of  a  band  of  music  that  is  coming  toward  him 
it  will  be  the  best  to  take  him  around  in  some  way  and  get  in 
the  rear  of  the  band.  In  this  way  he  will  become  familiar  with 
the  noise  while  following  it.  This  is  what  we  call  educating  the 
sense  of  hearing.  If  it  is  something  that  frightens  him  whe&n  he 
sees  it,  get  him  accustomed  to  the  sight  of  it  in  the  same  manner 
that  you  accustom  him  to  the  sound— by  letting  him  follow 
after  it. 


52  MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    HORSE. 

By  way  of  illustration  :  a  horse  will  follow  a  top-buggy  on  the 
road  or  street  without  becoming  frightened,,  but  should  the  same 
buggy  approach  him  or  come  up  behind  hini,  he  will  become 
frightened,  thereby  obeying  his  natural  instinct  in  attempt- 
ing to  get  away  from  an  object  he  does  not  understand.  A 
couple  of  gentlemen,  who  took  lessons  from  me  some  years  ago, 
while  I  was  illustrating  this  point,  one  said : 

"  That's  so." 

He  went  on  to  state  to  the  class  :  "  When  myself  and  com- 
panion were  travelling  out  West,  we  came  up  with  a  band  of  wild 
horses,  and  they  followed  us  at  a  distance  for  two  days  ;  some- 
times we  would  turn  our  horses  around  and  start  toward  the 
band  to  get  a  good  look  at  them,  and  they  would  invariably  turn 
and  move  from  us,  but  when  we  resumed  our  journey  the  wild 
horses  would  again  follow  us,  always  keeping  off  at  a  safe 
distance." 

So,  in  accustoming  a  colt  or  horse  to  any  object  that  would  be 
inconvenient  to  use  in  the  training-lot,  proceed  as  directed  above. 
In  fact,  to  break  a  horse  of  any  bad  habit,  such  as  shying  on  the 
road,  refusing  to  stand  quietly  while  being  hitched  or  unhitched  ; 
being  restless  while  you  are  getting  in  or  out  of  the  buggy, 
rearing  up,  running  backwards,  jumping  over  things  in  the  road, 
or,  in  fact,  any  bad  habit  that  the  horse  is  subject  to,  can  be 
thoroughly  eradicated  by  putting  him  through  a  thorough  course 
of  training,  as  directed  in  the  handling  of  the  colt,  thus  getting 
him  under  your  control. 

Never  go  into  partnership  with  your  horse,  or  compromise 
with  him  when  he  disobeys,  but  let  him  know  that  you  are 
what  you  were  intended  to  be — his  master,  and  he  your  ser- 
vant. 

After  giving  your  horse  a  thorough  course  of  training,  if  you 
ever  have  got  into  the  miserable  and  uncalled-for  habit  of  trying 
to  make  the  horse  go  by  jerking  on  the  lines,  as  most  ladies  and 


I 

MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    HORSE.  53 

quite  a  number  of  gentlemen  do,  by  all  means  desist  at  once  and 
never  repeat  it.  The  main  object  is  to  be  uniform  in  your 
language  and  actions  toward  him.  Never  say  whoa !  to  him 
unless  you  want  him  to  stop,  and  if  you  should  happen  to  say 
whoa  when  you  did  not  want  him  to  stop,  stop  him. 

If  you  tell  him  to  go  and  he  refuses  to  obey,  touch  him  with 
the  whip,  but  do  not  jerk  on  the  lines.  By  giving  him  the  above 
lesson  he  will  soon  understand  your  commands,  and  will  act 
promptly.  You  should  be  careful  and  not  pull  much  on  the  lines, 
for  his  mouth  will  be  a  little  tender  after  the  lesson.  Never  use 
a  severe  bit,  as  it  is  unnecessary.  The  plain-jointed  bit  will  be 
sufficient  to  hold  any  horse  if  he  is  properly  drilled.  Some  people 
make  their  horses  foolish  by  holding  the  lines  tight  when  the 
horse  starts. 


No.  0. 


HOW    TO    TELL    A    HORSE'S    AGE 
HIS  TWENTY-EIRST  YEAE. 


TO 


There  are  few  persons,  even  among  veterinary  surgeons,  who 
are  able  to  tell  the  exact  age  of  a  horse  after  he  has  attained  his 
tenth  year,  and  this  being  the  case,  how  can  we  expect  those  who 
have  neither  anatomical  or  physiological  knowledge  of  the  mouth 
to  tell  his  age. 

Horse-dealers  are  frequently  accused  of  deceiving  their  cus- 
tomers in  the  age  of  horses.  The  purpose  of  this  lesson  is  entirely 
to  set  aside  this  deception,  and  to  enable  all,  sellers,  buyers,  and 
those  who  never  before  knew  anything  about  the  age  of  horses, 
to  thoroughly  understand  the  age  of  all  horses,  from  the  time  of 
foaling  until  he  has  reached  his  twenty-first  year. 


AGE   OF   THE   HORSE.  55 

The  writer,  who  has  theoretically  and  practically  studied  the 
-the  horse's  mouth  for  eighteen  years,  has  had  opportunities  of 
examining  the  mouths  of  thousands 'of  horses  of  all  ages,  thus 
thoroughly  convincing  himself  of  jthe  reliability  of  the  rules  he 
has  laid  down  for  telling  the  age  of  the  horse. 

He  has  been  teaching  this  new  system  for  nearly  ten  years,  and 
has  taught  thousands  of  persons,  and  caused  numerous  discussions 
upon  the  subject. 

While  in  Terra  Haute,  Indiana,  there  was  no  little  excitement 
created  by  the  teaching  of  this  system.  In  fact,  some  of  the 
horsemen  who  were  skeptical  on  the  subject,  wrote  to  Wilkes' 
Spirit  of  the  Times  to  ascertain  if  it  were  possible  to  tell  the  horse's 
age  up  to  twenty-one  years.  The  answer  came,  "  No,"  with  a 
long  explanation,  giving  many  reasons  why  it  could  not. 

The  principal  point  presented  in  Winces'  argument  was,  that  the 
cups  or  marks  entirely  disappeared  in  the  teeth  at  nine  years  of 
age ;  and  that,  after  the  cups  or  marks  were  gone,  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  ascertain  with  any  degree  of  certainty  how  old  the  horse 
was. 

(Every  new  invention,  idea,  and  system  of  teaching  any  science 
or  art,  must  have  a  discoverer  or  inventor ;  and  as  those  new 
ideas,  systems,  and  inventions  are  made  public,  there  is,  of  course, 
much  discussion,  criticism,  and  opposition  created  by  those 
familiar  as  well  as  by  those  unfamiliar  with  the  subject.) 

The  writer  contends  that  the  horse's  mouth  undergoes  a  con- 
tinual change  from  the  time  he  is  foaled  to  the  day  he  dies  ;  and 
that  it  is  much  easier  to  determine  his  age  from  ten  years  up  to 
twenty-one,  than  it  is  from  one  to  ten,  and  we  feel  confident  that 
we  will  be  able  to  substantiate  these  statements  as  we  proceed 
with  the  lesson. 

The  horse  has  forty  teeth,  and,  as  we  use  only  twelve  of  them 
.to  determine  his   age,   we  will  have   very  little  to   say  about 


56  AGE   OF    THE   HORSE. 

the  other  twenty-eight,  as  it  will  have  a  tendency  to  confuse  the 
reader.  The  twelve  teeth  we  use  to  tell  the  age  by  are  located 
in  the  front  of  the  mouth,  six  on  the  upper  and  six  on  the  lower 
jaw.     [See  cut  No.  1,  of  lower  jaw  of  foal  six  months  old.] 


No.  1. 
Outside  view  of  a  six  months  old  colt's  lower  jaw. 

We  will  name  these  teeth  "  nipper,"  e<  middle,"  and  "  corner  " 
teeth — NN,  the  nippers  ;  MM,  the  middle  ;  CC,  corner — as  marked 
on  the  teeth  in  the  cut. 

The  upper  jaw  has  six  teeth — the  same  as  the  lower.  The  cut 
simply  represents  the  lower  jaw,  front  view.  There  are  six  on  the 
upper  jaw  that  will  be  understood  by  the  same  names — nipper, 
middle  and  corner.  The  nipper,  middle  and  corner  teeth  of  the 
upper  jaw  will  come  directly  over  the  nipper,  middle  and  corner 
teeth  of  the  lower  jaw. 

These  twelve  teeth  are  all  that  we  use  to  determine  the  age  of 
any  horse,  mare,  mule,  jack  or  jenny,  and  the  first  thing  for  the 
reader  to  do  will  be  to  familiarize  himself  with  the  names  and 
location  of  these  teeth — nipper,  middle  and  corner,  or  N,  M  and 
0  ;  so  that,  when  we  speak  about  nipper,  middle  and  corner  teeth, 
the  reader  will  know  just  where  to  look  in  the  horse's  mouth  for 
the  teeth  we  are  speaking  about. 

The  rule  we  lay  down  for  telling  the  horse's  age  applies  to  the 
mare  as  well  as  the  horse.  Mares  do  not  generally  have  canine 
or  hook-teeth,  commonly  called  tusks  or  bridle-teeth. 


AGE    OF   THE    HORSE. 


57 


This  is  one  of  the  reasons  for  discarding  those  teeth  in  deter- 
mining the  age,  as  it  would  have  a  tendency  to  deceive  or  mislead 
the  pupil.     (See  cut  No.  2.) 


No.  2. 

INSIDE   VIEW  OF   THE   LOWER  JAW    OF     A    FOAL'S     MOUTH     AT     SIX     MONTHS.— By 

looking  closely  at  this  cut  it  will  be  perceived  that  both  the  outer  and 
inner  edge  of  the  nippers  are  worn,  while  only  the  outer  edge  of  the 
middle  is  worn  off,  and  the  corner  teeth  have  not  yet  come  in  contact  with 
the  upper  jaw. 

The  average  time  for  the  foal  to  get  his  first  four  teeth,  called 
nippers,  is  fourteen  days.  He  gets  the  next  four,  called  middle, 
between  fourteen  days  and  three  months.  Between  three  months 
and  six  months  he  gets  the  last  four,  called  corner.  So  you  will 
understand  by  this  that  the  colt,  at  the  age  of  six  months,  has 
twelve  teeth.     These  are  all  the  teeth  we  use  to  tell  the  age. 


dllB&, 


No.  3. 

The  colt's  teeth  as  they  appear  when  drawn  out  of  the  jaw. 

This  will  represent  six  colt  teeth  as  they  would  appear  if  pulled 

out  of  the  jaw.     The  three  on  the  left,  marked  H,  represent  the 

outside  view  of  the  crown.      The  three   on  the  right,  marked  E, 


58 


AGE   OF   THE   HORSE. 


represent  the  inside  view  of  the  crown  of  the  teeth.  G  represents 
the  roots  of  the  middle  and  corner  teeth,  from  an  inside  view, 
and  I  represents  the  ontside  view  of  the  roots. 

By  this  cnt  the  pupil  will  readily  understand  the  anatomical 
structure  of  the  colt's  teeth.  These  teeth  will  all  disappear  from 
the  colt's  mouth  between  the  age  of  two  and  five  years. 

By  carefully  noticing  the  ends  of  the  teeth  in^  cut  No.  2  you 
will  see  that  the  crowns  or  part  that  the  colt  eats  with  has  a  hole 
or  mark  inside,  and  by  the  upper  and  lower  jaw  coming  in  con- 
tact with  each  other  causing  the  teeth  to  wear  off  at  the  crown. 
These  cups  or  marks  will  disappear  at  the  age  of  one  year  from 
the  nippers  of  the  foal.     (See  cut  No.  4.) 


No.  i. 
This  is  the  inside  view  of  a  colt's  mouth  one  year  old. 
|  [ The  middle  and  corner  teeth  still  retain  the  cups  or  marks. 
When  we  look  for  the  cups  in  the  colt  or  horse,  always  look  on 
the  lower  jaw,  because  the  lower  jaw  is  movable  and  the  upper  is 
stationary  and  never  moves  except  when  the  horse  moves  his 
head. 

For  this  reason  there  will  be  more  friction  on  the  lower  jaw 
than  on  the  upper,  hence  the  lower  teeth  will  wear  away  sooner 
than  the  upper,  and  in  looking  for  the  marks  or  cups  in  the 
■crown  of  the  tooth  always  and  invariably  look  on  the  lower  jaw. 

Cut  No.  5  represents  the  lower  jaw  of  a  two-year-old,  in  which 


AGE   OF   THE    HORSE.  59 

the  edges  of  the  nipper  and  middle  teeth  and  their  marks  or  cups 
are  worn  down,  and  the  inner  edge  of  the  corner  tooth  is  just 
commencing  to  wear. 


No.  5. 

InsideMew^of  a  two-year-old,  when  the  cups  are   worn  off  of  the  nipper  and 
middle,  a  small  cup  remaining  in  the  corner  teeth. 

At  the  age  of  two  years  and  a  half  the  colt  teeth  commence  to 
drop  out  and  horse  teeth  take  their  place ;  this  we  call  shedding 
thejteeth. 

There  is  a  difference  between  the  teeth  naturally  shedding  and 
being  knocked  or  pulled  out. 

Sometimes  they  are  pulled  or  knocked  out  for  the  purpose  of 
representing  the  animal  to  be  older  than  he  really  is. 

During  the  late  war  between  the  North  and  South  there  were 
a  great  many  mules  sold  to  the  government  that  had  their  nippers 
pulled  out,  sometimes  at  the  age  of  eighteen  months,  to  make 
them  appear  as  being  two  years  and  a  half  old,  this  age  being  the 
youngest  at  which  the  government  would  receive  them.  And 
thousands  passed  into  the  Government  employ  for  mules  that 
were  "  coming  three  years,"  when  really  they  were  only  from  a 
a  year  to  eighteen  months  old. 

While  in  Chicago  I  frequently  visited  the  sale-stables.  On  one 
occasion  I  was  an  eye-witness  to  this  circumstance  : 

A  gentleman,  wishing  to  purchase  a  horse,  inquired  the  age  of 
a  fine  large  colt  some  sixteen  hands  high.     The  dealer  informed 


GO 


AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 


him  that  the  colt  was  five  years  and  two  months  old.  Out  of 
curiosity  I  ventured  to  examine  the  colt's  mouth,  and  found  it 
was  only  three  years  old. 

The  dealer's  object  in  representing  the  colt  to  be  five  years  old 
when  he  was  but  three  was,  that  the  purchaser  desired  a  horse 
of  suitable  age  for  work,  whereas  a  three-year-old  would  not 
answer. 

Had  the  Government  Inspectors  of  horses  and  mules  known 
that  the  animals  brought  to  them  were  but  eighteen  months  old 
instead  of  two  and  one-half  years,  they  would  have  refused  them 
as  unfit  for  the  work  required.  Had  the  Government  Inspectors 
and  the  Chicago  man  we  have  alluded  to  been  familiar  with  this 
method  of  telling  the  horse's  age  and  the  anatomical  structure  of 
the  mouth,  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  them  to  have  been 
deceived  as  to  the  age  of  the  horse. 


No.  6. 
Inside  view  of  lower  jaw,  when  two  and  a  half  years  old,  with  the  hor 
pers  just  coming  through  the  gum. 

Cut  No.  6  represents  the  lower  jaw  two  years  and  a  half  old,, 
with  the  colt  teeth  called  " nippers"  shed  out,  and  the  horse 
teeth  of  the  same  name  have  taken  their'place.j 

It  will  be  seen,  by  carefully  examining  the  above  cut,  that  the 
horse  teeth  now  coming  in  have  not  {filled  up  all  the  vacancy  in 
the  horse's  mouth  caused  by  the  shedding  of  the  colt  teeth. 

When  the  horse  teeth  on  the  lower  [and  upper  jaws  come  in 
contact  with  each  other,  and  are  worn  perfectly  straight  across. 


AGE   OF    THE    HORSE.  Q\ 

the  crown,  so  as  to  fill  up  all  the  vacancy  caused  by  the  colt  teeth 
"shedding  out/' the  colt  will  then  be  three  years  old.  At  this 
time  the  colt  will  have  four  horse  teeth  and  eight  colt  teeth.  In 
other  words,  the  nippers  above  and  below  will  be  horse  teeth, 
while  the  middle  and  corner  teeth  above  and  below  will  be  colt 
teeth. 


No.  7. 
Inside  view  of  the  lower  jaw,  three  years  and  a  half  old. 
The  way  we  distinguish  the  horse  teeth  from  the  colt  teeth,  is 
by  the  horse  teeth  having  a  groove  running  down  the  centre  of 
the  tooth  from  the  crown  to  the  gum  on  the  outside  surface, 
while  the  colt  teeth  are  smooth  on  the  outside  surface,  resembling 
your  finger-nail,  as  shown  in  Cut  No.  1. 

Cut  No.  7  represents  the  lower  jaw  of  a  colt  three  years  and  a 
half  old. 

The  colt  teeth,  called  f<  middle,"  are  gone,  and  the  horse  teeth 
have  cut  through  the  gums.  At  four  years  old,  these  horse  teeth, 
called  "  middle,"  shall  have  filled  up  all  the  vacancy,  and  be  perfectly 
straight  across  the  crown.  Then  the  colt  will  show  four  horse 
teeth  on  the  lower  and  four  on  the  upper  jaw,  with  only  four  colt 
teeth  remaining,  namely,  the  four  «  corner  "  teeth.  When  the 
colt  is  four  years  old,  it  will  be  seen,  by  a  close  examination  of  the 
colt's  mouth,  that  he  will  have  eight  horse  teeth  and  four  colt 
teeth  ;  the  four  nippers  and  four  middle  will  be  horse  teeth,  show- 


62  AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 

ing  a  groove  on  the  outside  surface ;  while  the  four  corner  teeth 
that  remain  in  the  jaw  will  be  colt  teeth,  with  no  groove  on  the 
outside  surface,  and  the  crown  of  the  tooth  will  be  worn  perfectly 
smooth,  as  represented  in  cut  No.  7. 


No.  8. 

Inside  of  the  lower  jaw  of  a  colt  four  years  and  a  half  old,  with  the  tushes 
and  corner  tooth  through  the  gurn. 

Cut  No.  8  is  a  representation  of  the  lower  jaw  of  a  four-and- 
half -year-old  colt.  It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  cut,  that  all  the 
colt  teeth  are  gone,  but  the  corner  teeth  are  not  yet  fully  de- 
veloped. These  corner  teeth  will  be  full  size  at  five  years.  Then, 
all  the  teeth,  nipper,  middle,  and  corner,  will  be  horse  teeth,  and 
will  all  show  the  groove  on  the  front  except  the  corner  teeth. 


No.  9. 
Outside  view  of  lower  jaw  at  five  years  of  age. 
The  above  cut  is  a  correct  likeness  of  the  outside  view  of  the 


AGE   OF    THE    HORSE. 


63 


lower  jaw  of  a  five-year-old  horse,  showing  the  grooves  in  the 
nippers  and  middle  teeth,  while  showing  the  corner  teeth  as 
smooth.  The  corner  teeth  of  the  upper  and  lower  jaw  at  five 
years  are  just  commencing  to  wear,  and  it  will  be  seen  by  Cut 
No.  9  that  the  corner  teeth  are  wider  than  they  are  long. 

The  length  of  the  tooth  is  from  the  gum  to  the  crown,  and  the 
width  is  across  the  crown.  The  tooth  marked  c  is  wider  than 
it  is  long. 


No.   10. 
Inside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  at  five  years. 

This  cut  shows  the  inside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  at  five  years 
of  age.  There  is  but  slight  difference  between  this  and  the 
sis-year-old. 


No.  11. 
Inside  view  of  a  horse's  mouth  at  six  years. 

Cut  No.  11  shows  the  lower  jaw  of  a  six-year-old  horse.      By 


4  AGE   OF    THE    HORSE. 

examining  this  cat  it  will  be  noticed  that  there  is  a  large  cup  in 
the  corner  teeth,  and  a  small  one  in  the  middle  teeth.  The  cups 
have  almost  disappeared  from  the  nippers,  and  sometimes  at  six 
years  the  cups  are  gone  entirely  from  them,  which  would  repre- 
sent a  seven-year-old  horse.  But  if  the  pupil  has  a  doubt  as  to 
the  horse's  age  he  can  determine  by  the  examination  of  some  of 
the  other  teeth.  We  have  shown  that  the  corner  teeth  at  five 
years  old  are  wider  than  they  are  long,  and  until  the  horse  has 
passed  six  years  of  age  the  upper  corner  teeth,  on  both  sides  of 
the  jaw,  will  show  wider  than  they  are  long.  The  horse  will  not 
be  over  six  years  old,  although  the  cups  may  have  disappeared 
from  the  nippers  of  the  lower  jaw. 


No.  12. 
Inside  view  of  horse's  mouth  at  seven  years. 

Cut  No.  12  represents  the  inside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  of  a 
seven-year-old  horse.  It  will  be  noticeable  that  the  cups  are 
entirely  gone  from  the  nippers,  and  almost  gone  from  the  middle, 
while^the  corner-teeth  are  worn  dull  on  the  inside.  At  this  time 
the  upper  corner-tooth  will  show  longer  than  it  is  wide.  This  is 
the  only  difference  perceptible  between  the  six  and  seven-year- 
old  horse. 


AGE    OF   THE    HORSE.  65 

Cut  No.  13  shows  the  lower  jaw  of  the  horse  aged  eight  years, 
in  which  the  teeth  have  all  become  equally  worn,  and  in  the 
corner  teeth  alone  is  to  be  found  any  trace  of  the  cup.      The 


No.  13. 
Inside  view  of  a  horse  at  eight  years. 
lower  jaw  will  be  smooth  at  this  time   except  the  corner  teeth, 
which  will  show  a  small  cup. 


No.  14. 

The  above  cut  shows  the  lower  jaw    of  a  nine-year-old  horse, 
where  all  the  teeth  have  become  smooth. 

This  is  the  general  rule— but  there  are  exceptions ;    at  least 

there  are  shell-teeth,  or  holes  in  the  teeth,  that  would  tend  to 

deceive  the  beginner,  and  if  we  had  no  other  marks  to  go  by^ 

except  the  cups,  we  would  find  it  a  difficult  task  to  determine  the 

E 


66  AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 

horse's  age  to  a  degree  of  certainty.  But  we  understand  other 
marks  that  are  more  reliable  than  the  cups  we  have  just  spoken 
of. 

Some  unprincipled  men  might  make  false  cups  in  the  teeth  to 
make  the  horse  appear  younger  to  those  persons  not  fully  conver- 
sant with  all  the  marks  in  the  mouth.  It  will  be  noticed,  by 
examining  the  outside  of  the  teeth  of  horses  between  the  ages  of 
five  and  ten  years,  that  they  have  smooth  corner  teeth,  as  shown 
in  cut  No.  9. 

At  ten  years  of  age  there  will  appear  a  small  groove  on  the 
upper  corner  teeth  close  to  the  gum,  about  half  the  size  of  a  grain 
of  wheat,  and  this  groove  will  appear  longer  as  the  horse  advances 
in  age  ;  and  when  he  arrives  at  the  age  of  twenty-one  years,  this 
groove  will  show  all  the  way  down  the  tooth,  as  it  appears  in  the 
nipper  and  middle  teeth  of  the  following  cut : 


No.  15. 
Side  view  of  t'  e  horse's  ;aw,  at  the  age  of  fifteen  years. 

The  above  cut  represents  the  side  view  of  the  upper  jaw  of  a 
horse  fifteen  years  old,  with  the  groove  half  way  down  the  upper 
corner  tooth;    or,  in  other    wcrds,  to  make  it  plain,  the  groove 


AGE   OF   THE   HORSE.  67 

shows  down  the  tooth  one-half  the  distance  from  the  gum  to  the 
crown.  In  measuring  the  length  of  the  tooth  in  this  case,  we 
always  measure  from  the  gum  to  the  longest  point  of  the  tooth ; 
but,  to  be  better  understood,  we  will  say,  measure  the  longest  side 
of  the  tooth  to  get  the  proper  length.  If  this  groove  should  show 
half-way  down  the  longest  side  of  the  tooth,  as  represented  in 
cut  15,  the  horse  will  be  fifteen  years  old  without  a  doubt. 

If  it  shows  three-fourths  of  the  way  down  the  longest  side,  he 
is  eighteen  years ;  and  if  it  shows  all  the  way  down  he  is  twenty- 
one  years  old.  According  to  this,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  groove 
starts  close  to  the  gum  at  ten,  and  will  reach  down  to  the  crown 
at  twenty-one.  It  takes  eleven  years  for  the  groove  to  reach  the 
crown,  hence,  one-eleventh  the  length  of  the  tooth  represents  one 
year  ;  two-elevenths,  two  years,  and  so  on,  and  when  the  groove 
is  half-way  down  the  tooth,  as  represented  in  cut  15,  the  horse 
is  then  fifteen  and  a  half  years  old— providing  we  count  the 
fraction— from  the  fact  that  one-half  of  eleven  is  five  and  a  half, 
and  the  groove  not  making  its  appearance  on  the  tooth  until  the 
horse  arrives  at  the  age  of  ten  ;  adding  the  ten  to  the  five  and  a 
half,  counting  the  fractions,  makes  him  fifteen  and  a  half 
years  old. 

But  as  we  are  perfectly  satisfied  to  be  able  to  come  within  a 
year  of  the  horse's  age,  we  will  throw  this  fraction  out  and  simply 
say  fifteen  years  old.  We  will  lay  down  a  simple  rule  to  examine 
this  tooth  and  groove  by  : 

If  the  groove  is  just  starting  on  the  tooth,  the  horse  is  ten 
years  old ;  one-eleventh  down  the  tooth,  he  would  be  eleven  years 
old  ;  two-elevenths,  he  would  be  twelve  years  old  ;  three-elevenths, 
thirteen  years  old  ;  nearly  half-way,  fourteen  years  old ;  half- 
way, fifteen ;  a  little  below  half-way,  sixteen  years ;  still  a  little 
farther  down,  seventeen  years j  three-fourths  of  the  way  down, 
eighteen  years,-  a  little  more  than  three-fourths  of  the  way, 
nineteen  years,  and  almost  to  the  crown,  twenty.  When  the 
groove   reaches  from  the  gum  to  the  crown,  he  is  twenty-one, 


(J3  AGE   OF    THE    HORSE. 

measuring  with  the  eye.  This  being  so  far  as  we  propose  to 
teach,  scientifically,  the  horse's  age,  the  reader,  by  a  close 
examination  of  horses'  mouths  that  he  knows  the  age  of  positively, 
and  comparing  them  with  the  above  rules,  will  soon  be  able  to 
tell  correctly  the  age  of  any  horse  from  the  time  he  is  foaled  to 
twenty-one  years. 

We  have  endeavored,  in  the  above  instructions,  to  give  in  plain 
language  the  simplest,  yet  the  most  scientific  method  of  telling 
the  horse's  age  known. 

In  order  to  still  further  explain  the  anatomical  and  physiologi- 
cal structure  of  the  teeth,  we  will  refer  the  reader  to  the  follow- 
ing illustrations : 


No.  16. 
Teeth  as  they  are  located  in  the  jaw. 

Cut  16  represents  the  way  and  manner  in  which  the  teeth  are 
located  in  the  jaw  of  the  horse.  The  roots,  as  they  are 
commonly  called,  are  narrow  at  the  ends,  while  the  crown 
of  the  tooth  is  much  wider.  The  dotted  line,  from  D  to  E, 
represents  that  portion  of  the  tooth  which  extends  above  the 
gums,  and  the  lower  parts  are  buried  beneath  the  gums  in  the 
jawbone.  K  K  represent  the  tusks  or  hook  teeth,  commonly 
called  bridle    teeth,   just   about  to   cut  through  the  gums,  and 


AGE   OF    THE    HORSE.  69 

as  there  is  no  certain  time  to  be  relied  upon  for  these  teeth  to 
be  cut  through,  we  will  say  nothing  about  them,  as  this  would 
mislead  the  reader. 

The  six  teeth  are  marked  NN,  MM  and  CC.  The  three  on 
the  left  show  the  shape  of  the  teeth  on  the  crown,  as  they  come 
through  the  gum,  while  the  three  oa  the  right  show  some  little 
wear  by  coming  in  contact  with  the  upper  jaw. 


No.  17. 

Full-size  front  and  side  view  of  nippers  as  they  appeal'  when  pulled  out 
of  jaw. 

Cut  17  is  the  full-size,  front  and  side  view,  of  the  tooth  called 
nipper.  A  represents  the  front  view,  and  B  shows  the  side  view 
of  the  same  tooth. 

By  noticing  the  front  view,  marked  A,  of  the  nipper-tooth,  in 
Cut  No.  17,  you  will  see  that  at  the  crown  or  top  it  is  quite  wide, 


70  AGE    OF    THE   HORSE. 

and  gradually  tapers  to  the  root,  where  it  is  quite  pointed,  and 
the  black  mark,  beginning  at  the  crown  and  running  down  near 
the  whole  length  of  the  tooth,  represents  the  groove  we  dwelt 
upon  before. 

The  representation  in  Cut  17,  marked  B,  gives  you  a  side  view 
of  the  same  tooth,  and  shows  the  top  or  crown  to  be  much  nar- 
rower on  the  side  than  on  the  front,  and  instead  of  gradually 
tapering  down  to  a  sharp  point,  it  bulges  out  or  becomes  thicker 
near  the  middle  than  at  either  end.  By  this  it  will  be  seen  that 
as  the  tooth  wears  away,  by  coming  in  contact  with  the  upper 
jaw,  the  crown  becomes  narrower,  as  it  wears  down  to  the  root, 
and  thicker  from  the  outside  to  the  inside  of  the  tooth. 


No.   IS 

Shows  nipper  as  it  appears  at  three,  six,  twelve,  eighteen,  and  twenty-four 
years. 

Cut  18  shows  the  shape  of  the  crown  of  the  nipper  tooth  at 
different  ages.  The  upper  section  of  this  tooth  shows  a  three- 
year-old  tooth. 

The  width  is  from  figure  one  to  figure  two,  while  the  thickness 


AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 


71 


is  shown  from  figure  three  to  figure  four.  The  second  section 
of  this  tooth  shows  a  six-year-old,  and  the  third  section  shows  a 
twelve-year-old  tooth.  The  fourth  shows  eighteen  years  old, 
while  the  fifth,  and  lower  section,  shows  twenty-four  years. 

If  the  reader  will  carefully  examine  this  illustration  he  will 
notice  that  the  upper  section  from  one  to  two  is  twice  as  wide  as 
it  is  thick,  while  the  lower  section,  showing  the  same  tooth  at 
twenty-four  years,  will  discover  that  it  is  twice  as  thick  as  it  is 
wide. 

The  width  is  from  one  to  two,  and  the  thickness  from  three  to 
four. 

We  will  next  call  your  attention  to  cut  19. 


No.  19. 
Life-size  inside  view  of  five-year-old. 


This  cut  will  represent  a  life-size,  inside  view,  of  the  lower  jaw 
of  a  five-year-old,  showing  all  the  cups  or  marks  in  the  teeth  as 
they  would  appear  in  the  five-year-old  mouth.  N  N  the  nippers, 
M  M  the  middle,  C  C  the  corner  teeth. 


72  AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 

Cut  No.  20  shows  a  life-size  outside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  of  a 
colt  five  years  old. 


No.  20. 
Life-size  outside  view  of  a  five-year-old. 

Cut  21  shows  a  life-size  inside  view    of  the  lower  jaw  of  a  horse 
twenty-four  years  old. 


No.  21. 
Life-size  inside  view  of  a  twenty-foiir-year-old. 

Cut  22  represents  the  outside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  of  a  horse 
twenty-four  years  old. 

These  last  six  cuts,  17,  18,  19,  20,  21  and  22  are  not  inserted 


AGE   OF    THE    HORSE. 


73 


to  show  any  particular  age,  but  to  post  the  pupil  more  fully  in 
regard  to  the  shape  and  form  of  the  teeth  at  different  ages, 
showing  the  two  extremes,  the  very  young  and  the  very  old. 


No.  22. 
Life-size  outside  view  of  a  twenty -four-year-old. 

By  closely  observing  the  cuts  above  mentioned,  more  particu- 
larly the  last  four,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  five-year-old  shows 
very  wide  across  the  crown,  while  the  twenty-four-year-old  shows 
very  narrow  across  the  crown,  both  the  inside  and  outside  views. 
This  is  caused  by  what  is  called  the  alveolar  process. 

It  will  be  more  fully  understood  by  the  pupil  to  say,  the  teeth 
in  the  young  horse  are  long,  while  those  in  the  old  horse  are 
short,  as  shown  in  Cut  No.  18. 

Most  people  are  under  the  impression  that  young  horses  have 
short  teeth,  and  that  old  horses  have  long  ones.  It  is  just  the 
reverse.  The  old  horses  have  the  short  teeth  and  the  young  ones 
the  long,  as  will  be  seen  in  Cut  No.  17.  A  shows  the  front  and  B 
the  side  view  of  a  full  size  tooth  of  a  young  horse,  which  averages 
in  length  from  2£  to  3  inches. 

While  Cut  No.  18,  lower  section,  represents  the  horse  when  he 
is  very  old — three-fourths  to  one  inch  long. 


74 


AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 


The  reason ' people  call  the  old  horse's  teeth  long  is  because 
they  show  further  out  from  the  gums,  while  the  young  horse's 
teeth  are  buried  in  the  jaw-bone  and  covered  by  the  gums.  For 
this  reason  the  young  horse's  teeth  appear  short,  while  the  old 
horse's  teeth  look  longer  because  they  project  farther  out  from 
the  gums. 

There  are  some  horses  that  have  what  are  called  parrot-mouths, 
where  the  upper  jaw  teeth  extend  over  and  beyond  the  lower  jaw 
teeth.  Should  this  be  the  case,  they  will  not  wear  off  short,  but 
the  teeth  of  a  horse  eight  or  nine  years  old  will  show  as  long  as 
a  horse  of  twelve  or  fifteen  will,  where  the  teeth  come  together 
and  wear  off  properly  on  the  crowns. 


AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 


75 


Page  74  shows  the  two  inside  views  of  the  lower  jaw  together, 
so  that  the  pupil  can  see  the  contrast  between  the  old  and  young 
mouth. 

We  will  also  put  the  two  outside  views  together  on  this  page, 
so  the  pupil  can  see  the  width  and  shape  of  the  teeth  and  gums. 
By  noticing  closely,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  gums  in  the  young 
mouth  are  nearly  straight  across,  while  the  old  mouth  shows  the 
gums  extending  up  between  the  teeth. 

The  upper  view  on  page  74  shows  twenty-four  years  old  ;  the 
lower  view,  only  five.  On  page  75  the  upper  view  shows  five,  and 
the  lower  one  twenty-four  years. 


76  AGE    OF   THE    HORSE. 

We  will  next  proceed  to  explain  as  well  as  possible  to  the  pupil 
what  is  meant  by  the  alveolar  process. 

In  the  human  as  well  as  in  the  horse,  the  teeth  are  constantly 
and  slowly,  as  nature  directs,  moving  up  out  of  the  sockets,  and 
as  the  teeth  in  the  horse  are  smaller  at  the  roots  than  at  the 
crown  (as  shown  in  cut  No.  17),  it  will  be  understood,  as  they 
move  out  of  the  sockets,  that  the  further  out  they  get  the  nar- 
rower the  mouth  will  show. 

The  jaw-bone  naturally  contracts  to  fill  up  the  space  left  by  the 
teeth  coming  out  of  their  sockets,  and  as  this  is  a  gradual  process 
from  the  time  the  horse  is  fully  developed,  the  older  he  gets  the 
narrower  the  jaw  will  show.  Hence,  the  old  horse's  jaw  will  be 
much  narrower  than  the  young  one,  as  will  be  readily  shown  by 
the  cuts  on  pages  74  and  75. 

Another  marked  difference  will  be  perceptible  in  the  young 
horse's  mouth  and  teeth,  which  is,  that  the  shape  of  the  crown  of 
the  teeth  will  be  that  of  a  half-circle,  while  in  the  old  horse  they 
will  show  almost  straight  across  the  crown,  showing  the  shape 
the  aveolar  process  leaves  the  old  mouth  in. 

It  will  also  be  noticed  that  the  teeth  in  the  young  horse, 
marked  N,  M  and  C,  nippers,  middle  and  corner,  are  entirely  of 
a  different  shape  on  the  crown,  while  the  nippers  of  the  young 
horse  are  much  wider  than  they  are  thick,  the  old  horse's  nippers 
shows  much  thicker  than  they  are  wide.     (See  pages  74  and  75.) 

We  next  call  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  cut  No.  23,  which 
represents  the  inside  view  of  the  lower  jaw  of  an  old  horse,  in 
which  the  teeth  have  been  sawed  off,  and  not  naturally  worn  off. 

Cut  No.  24  represents  the  outside  view  of  the  same  jaw  illus- 
trated in  cut  23. 

Many  unprincipled  men  have  a  rascally  trick  of  sawing  off  the 


AGE   OF   THE    HORSE. 


77 


horse's  teeth  and  cutting  holes  in  the  crown,  and  then  putting  a 
red-hot  iron  in  the  holes  to  make  black  marks  or  false  cups. 


No.  23. 

This  is  called  "  Bishopping,"  because  the  man  who  first  prac- 
tised this  fraud  was  named  Bishop.  When  this  operation  is  per- 
formed on  a  horse  that  is  getting  along  in  years,  it  might  deceive 
those  that  are  not  familiar  with  the  formation  and  structure  of 
the  teeth  ;  but,  after  a  close  investigation  of  the  young  and  old 
mouth,  as  shown  by  cuts  19  and  20,  it  will  be  impossible  to  deceive 
the  pupil. 

\ 


No.  24. 


These  simple  but  practical  rules  can  become  understood  tho 
roughly  by  examining  the  mouths  of  different-aged  horses. 

I  would  advise  the  pupil  to  first  examine  the  mouths  of  horses 
whose  ages  are  well  known  to  him,  and  compare  with  these  in- 


78  AGE    OF    THE    HORSE. 

structions ;  tlieu  he  might  examine  the  mouths  of  different 
horses  that  he  knows  nothing  about ;  and  if  these  rules  will  hold 
good  in  describing  the  marks  in  the  mouth  that  is  well  understood 
by  the  pupil,  they  will  hold  good  in  determining  the  ages  of 
horses  he  knows  nothing  about. 

The  way  that  the  author  found  out  how  to  tell  an  old  horse's 
age  was  by  examining  every  horse  he  could  find,  if  the  horse's 
age  was  positively  known  by  the  owner.  He  then  observed  that 
different  marks  as  described  in  this  lesson,  and  now  feels  satisfied 
that  by  these  rules  the  old  horse's  age — say  up  to  twenty-one 
— will  be  known  as  well  as  the  horse  from  one  to  ten.  We  are  so 
positive  that  we  will  invite  any  scientific  horseman  or  others  to 
make  the  test. 

In.  regard  to  the  different  ages  of  horses  we  will  give  a  few 
words  of  advice.  Most  people,  in  buying  horses,  prefer  to  get  a 
young  horse — from  four  to  five  years  old.  If  a  gentleman  intends 
purchasing  a  horse  for  light  work,  intending  to  have  him  under 
his  own  care,  it  would  perhaps  be  well  to  buy.  such  a  horse,  be- 
cause the  young  horse  would  be  likely  to  improve  in  value,  if 
properly  cared  for,  and  the  work  light  and  easy  ;  but  if  he  were 
going  to  purchase  a  horse  to  do  hard,  steady  work,  it  would  be 
better  to  get  one  seven  or  eight  years  old. 

Many  persons,  inexperienced  in  handling  and  working  horses, 
imagine  that  when  the  horse  is  nine  or  ten  years  old,  he  is  rather 
an  old  animal,  but  experience  has  taught  me,  if  he  has  not  been 
crippled  and  injured,  by  working  him  when  too  young,  that  he 
is  just  in  his  prime. 

If  the  horse  is  to  be  used  for  staging,  street-cars,  omnibuses, 
hacks,  or  any  kind  of  constant  or  hard  work,  a  sound  ten-year-old 
horse  is  the  right  horse  in  the  right  place. 

In  travelling  through  Wisconsin,  last  year,  at  a  small  town 
called  Sharon,  where  I  formed  a  class,  a  gentleman  named  Lowell 
had  a  very  fine  stallion,  that  was  twenty-one  years  old,   shed 


AGE   OF    THE    HORSE.  79 

by  old  Lexington,  the  celebrated  running  horse.  He  hitched 
him  up  to  a  "  buck-board/'  and  the  horse  got  to  kicking.  Some 
of  my  scholars,  knowing  of  this,  got  Mr.  Lowell  to  bring  him  to 
Sharon,  to  hare  him  handled  before  the  class,  and  when  he  led 
the  horse  into  town  he  looked  like  a  young  colt,  and  was  one  of 
those  high-strung,  well-bred,  fully  developed,  symmetrical  horses 
that  would  furnish  a  fine  subject  for  a  picture  to  adorn  any  art 
gallery. 

After  handling  this  horse  a  few  minutes,  I  hitched  him  in  a 
buggy  and  drove  him  up  and  down  the  streets.  I  liked  the  horse 
so  well  that  I  persuaded  Mr.  Lowell  to  let  me  take  him  and  drive 
him  through  the  country.  I  drove  him  two  or  three  months,  and 
gave  him  some  very  long  drives,  which  appeared  beneficial  to' him 
rather  than  otherwise,  and  would  have  severely  tested  the  endur- 
ance of  many  much  younger  horses. 

Flora  Temple,  when  nineteen  years  old,  made  her  fastest  time 
—2:19£— which' was  the  fastest  mile  ever  trotted  by  any  horse, 
mare  or  gelding,  young  or  old,  up  to  the  year  1856. 

Goldsmith  Maid,  at  the  age  of  nineteen,  also  made  her  best  time 
—2:14— which  was  considered  wonderful,  as  she  beat  all  former 
records.  In  fact,  the  writer  has  seen  horses  working  every  day 
on  the  streets,  and  performing  the  work  of  ordinary  horses,  at 
the  advanced  age  of  thirty-three  years.  So,  in  buying  a  horse,  be 
careful  in  discarding  him  solely  on  account  of  his  age. 


EEFEREXCES  TO   OPPOSITE  CUT. 


1.  Muzzle. 

2.  Nostril. 

3.  Forehead. 

4.  Jaw. 

5.  Poll. 


6.  6.     Crest. 

7.  Thropple  or  windpipe. 

F0R1-QUARTER. 

8.  8.    Shoulder-blade. 

9.  Point  of  the  shoulder. 

10.  Bosom  or  breast. 

11.  11.      True-arm. 

12.  Elbow. 

13.  Fore-arm  (arm). 

14.  Knee. 

15.  Cannon-bone. 

16.  Back  sinew. 

17.  Fetlock  or  pastern -joint. 

18.  Coronet. 

19.  Hoof  or  foot. 

20.  Heel. 

BODY   OR  MIDDLEPIECE. 

21.  Withers. 

22.  Back. 

23.  23.    Ribs  (forming  together  the  barrel  or  chest). 

24.  24.    The  circumference  of  the  chest  at  this  point, 

called  the  girth. 

25.  The  loins. 

26.  The  croup. 

27.  The  hip. 

28.  The  flank. 

29.  The  sheath. 

30.  The  root  of  the  dock  or  tail. 

THE   HIND-QUARTER. 

31.  The  hip-joint,  round,  or  whirl-bone. 

32.  The  stifle-joint. 

33.  33.     Lower  thigh  or  gaskin. 

34.  The  quarters. 

35.  The  hock. 

36.  The  point  of  the  hock. 

37.  The  ball. 

38.  The  canuon-bone. 

39.  The  bnck  sinew. 

40.  Pastern  or  fetlock-joint. 

41.  Coronet. 

42.  Foot  or  hoof. 

43.  Heel. 


DISEASES    OE    THE    HORSE    AND 
THEIR   TREATMENT. 


The  treatment  and  remedies  given  in  this  book,  I  have  secured 
at  great  loss  of  time  and  money.  I  have  been  treating  my  own 
horses  for  nearly  twenty  years,  and  have  used  the  remedies  in 
this  book  with  great  success. 

Many  of  the  remedies  included  are  worth  much  more  than  the 
cost  of  five  of  these  books. 

My  principal  desire  in  the  production  of  this  book  is  to  benefit 
my  patrons.  Hence  the  reader  may  feel  assured  that  no  remedy 
will  be  placed  in  it,  not  known  by  me  to  be  valuable  and  reliable. 

ft  is  an  old  maxim  that  reads :  "  An  ounce  of  prevention  is 
worth  a  pound  of  cure,"  and  I  would  urge  the  necessity  of  at 
least  ordinary  care  in  preventing  colds  and  sickness  by  guarding 
against  exposure  or  mercilessly  driving  until  the  horse  is  in  a 
high  state  of  perspiration ;  then  leaving  him  where  some  cold, 
bleak  wind  will  strike  him,  perhaps  without  even  putting  a 
blanket  or  covering  over  him. 

If  covered  at  all,  the  blanket  may  be  thrown  on  carelessly,  and 
the  driver  or  groom  goes  off  to  enjoy  himself  with  his  friends, 
taking  his  toddy,  or  toasting  his  shins,  while  the  poor  animal 
stands  shivering  in  the  street. 

The  effect  of  such  treatment  will  not  then  have  time  to  fully 
develop  itself,  but  will  be  seen  afterwards,  when  perhaps  it 
is  too  late. 


DISEASES  OF    THE    HORSE.  83 

This  is  the  cause  of  Acute  Laminitis  (founder)  and  of  Pleuro- 
Penumonia  (Pleurisy.)  The  principal  points  in  securing  the  health 
of  a  horse,  are  exercise,  pure  air,  and  good  feeding. 

In  the  first  place  irregularity  in  exercising  the  horse  will  cer- 
tainly produce  diseases,  and  in  the  second  place,  the  stable  should 
be  ventilated  so  that  it  will  be  neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold.  If 
this  is  not  looked  to,  the  animal  will  show  the  effects  in  a  short 
time,  by  coughing  or  having  a  slight  irritation  of  the  mucous 
membrane  of  the  throat. 

A  horse  will  take  cold  very  easily  by  going  out  of  a  hot  stable 
into  the  cold  air,  or  from  the  cold  air  into  a  hot  stable. 

It  is  the  sudden  atmospheric  change  that  produces  the  change 
on  the  mucous  coat  of  the  larynx  and  throat. 

The  clothing  or  covering  of  the  horse  in  a  stable  should  be 
neither  too  warm  nor  too  cold. 

A  great  deal  depends  on  the  care  and  attention  that  is  paid  to 
the  horse  in  this  respect.  Whenever  the  laws  of  nature  are 
violated,  and  the  horse  is  caged  or  housed  up  by  man,  the  same 
care  and  attention  should  be  given  him  that  we  would  give  our- 
selves, when  apprehending  a  return  of  previously  endured  hard- 
ships occasioned  by  exposure  and  neglect. 

Another  point  that  should  always  be  observed  in  keeping  a 
horse  in  condition  and  good  health,  is  regular  feeding  and  paying 
strict  attention  to  him  immediately  after  a  long  or  hard  drive, 
especially  if  he  has  been  exposed  to  wet  and  cold  weather. 

Anticipate  and  look  for  a  chill.  Blanket  him  warmly  and  also 
give  him  a  little  fever  medicine  and  a  bran  mash.  By  these  timely 
precautions  a  severe  attack  of  pneumonia  may  be  averted. 

Lung  Fever. 

Lung  fever  is  an  epidemic  prevalent  throughout  the  United 
States   and  Canada,  and  is  considered  contagious  and  generally 


84  DISEASE    OF    THE    HORSE. 

proves  fatal.  It,  however,  has  its  causes  of  production  in  all 
countries,  some  of  which  I  will  describe  first.  Sudden  changes 
from  heat  to  cold ;  after  severe  cold  weather  it  turns  suddenly 
warm,  the  atmosphere  is  damp,  the  walls  of  stables  are  damp,  the 
miasm  and  stench  which  arise  from  close  stables  produce  a  poison- 
ous effluvia,  which  is  inhaled  by  the  horse,  and  produces  disease. 
Again,  changing  horses  from  warm,  comfortable  stables  to  cold, 
damp  ones  often  produces  it.      Driving  your  horse  hard,  getting 


First  stages  of  Lung-  Fever. 

him  warm,  and  then  leaving  him  in  a  current  of  cold  air,  or 
giving  him  a  heavy  draught  of  cold  water  when  warm,  and  allow- 
ing him  to  stand  afterwards  to  chill,  taking  him  out  when  he  feels 
well,  in  the  rain,  or  turning  him  out  in  a  paddock  when  he  feels 
fresh,  allowing  him  to  take  severe  and  quick  exercise  under  excit- 
ing circumstances  ;  causing  undue  excitement,  affecting  the  lungs 
by  rapid  respiration.  It  is  frequently  caused  by  sudden  fright, 
holding  and  compelling  horses  to  remain  in  close  proximity 
with  whatever  they  think  will  harm  them,  producing  heat  and 
excitement ;  overdriving  and  exhaustion  without  sufficient  care 
after  the  drive ;  too  hard  driving  on  a  full  stomach ;  inju- 
ries received  on  the  head,  back  or  limbs  ;  crowding  too  many 
horses  in  small  stables  without  sufficient  ventilation ;  keeping 
one    diseased   horse    in    a    herd    or    stable    with    other  horses. 


DISEASES   OF    THE    HORSE.  $5 

It  is  found  to  prevail  mostly  i  a  crowded  cities;  seldom  attacks 
horses  on  the  farm,  where  they  have  plenty  of  clean  water  and 
pure  air  j  the  damper  the  stable,  the  more  liable  is  the  horse  to 
disease.  It  frequently  attacks  other  parts  of  the  horse,  as  well 
as  the  lungs. 

Symptoms. 

The  horse  breaks  out  in  a  cold,  clammy  sweat,  accompanied 
with  a  severe  chill.  The  ears,  legs  and  head  become  deathly  cold ; 
he  hangs  his  head  down,  or  rests  it  on  the  manger  ;  nibbles  a 
little  at  his  hay,  refusing  to  eat  any  quantity  ;  stands  perfectly 
still,  never  moving  unless  compelled  to  ;  he  is  exceedingly  stiff 
and  weak  ;  has  a  quick  weak  pulse,  hot  mouth,  shivering,  dullness, 
watery  eyes,  accompanied  by  watery  discharge  from  the  nostrils, 
which  soon  becomes  purulent  ;  sore  throat,  difficulty  of  swallow- 
ing ;  loss  of  appetite,  bowels  costive  ;  invariably  dying  upon  his 
feet.     In  some  cases  the  chest  fills  with  water  ;    the  heart  and  its 


Second  stage  of  Lung  Fever. 

coverings  are  severely  involved  ;  the  eyelids  and  the  head  are 
distended  with  fluids.  It  occurs  generally  in  spring  and  fall,  but 
may  occur  at  any  season  of  the  year.  It  has  been  often  mistaken 
for  ordinary  founder.  Horses  generally  live  from  eight  to  fifteen 
-days  ;    but  if  they  are  not  relieved  during  the  first  three  or  four 


86  DISEASES    OE    THE    HORSE. 

days,  their  case  is  hopeless.  Running,  trotting,  livery,  and  fancy 
horses  are  the  most  liable  to  take  lung  fever.  The  celebrated 
Canadian  trotting  horse,  St.  Lawrence,  died  at  Kalamazoo, 
Michigan,  in  1860,  from  lung  fever,  produced  by  cooling  off  too 
suddenly  after  his  race.  The  American  trotting-horse,  George 
M.  Patchin,  died  from  the  same  cause  j  Royal  George  died  at 
Buffalo,  in  1867,  from  the  same  cause  ;  the  maid  of  Orleans  died 
from  the  same  cause,  after  running  her  four-mile  race.  Livery 
horses  are  subject  to  it,  because  they  are  so  often  over-heated,  and 
left  standing  in  the  cold  by  careless  drivers. 

Fancy  horses  that  are  kept  in  warm  stables  with  two  or  three 
heavy  blankets  on,  when  brought  in  contact  with  the  air,  chill 
very  soon,  unless  kept  in  rapid  motion.  No  horse  should  be 
blanketed  in  the  stable  generally.  If  kept  in  a  good  stable 
without  clothing,  and  clothed  whenever  he  is  obliged  to  stand  in 
the  air,  it  would  be  better.  Never  expose  your  horse  to  sudden 
changes ;  they  affect  his  general  health  and  spirits.  Horses  that 
are  regularly  fed  and  worked,  seldom  if  ever  need  any  medicine. 

All  horses  should  have  plenty  of  exercise  in  the  open  air.. 
Colts  should  never  be  housed  up  or  confined ;  nature  intended 
they  should  have  a  certain  amount  of  exercise  to  develop  their 
muscles  and  lungs,  to  keep  them  in  condition.  This  is  why  wild 
horses  excel  tame  ones  ;  they  commence  to  run  from  the  time 
they  are  foaled,  so  that  by  the  time  they  are  four  years  old,  they 
are  well  develojDed. 

Treatment  in  Lung  Fever  : 

Tincture  of  aconite 1  oz. 

Tincture  of  veratrium   i  oz. 

Aqua  4  oz . 

Dose  from  fifteen   to    twenty-five    dicjs   en  the  tongue  every 
thirty  or  forty  minutes. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE.  S7 

The  dose  can  be  increased  or  decreased  according  to  the  se- 
verity of  the  case.  Blister  his  sides  just  behind  his  forelegs ; 
bathe  his  throat  with  some  strong  liniment,  and  give  him  plenty 
of  pure  air ;  do  not  stand  him  in  the  draught ;  rub  his  legs  well 
with  some  stimulating  liniment,,  remembering  that  good  care  is 
one-half  the  battle. 

Spasmodic  Colic. 

One  of  the  most  dangerous  and  common  diseases  to  which  the 
horse  is  subject,  is  the  Colic,  both  spasmodic  and  flatulent.  Spas- 
modic Colic,  if  not  relieved,  will,  in  severe  cases,  cause  inflam- 
mation of  the  bowels  and  speedy  death. 

Flatulent  Colic,  while  exhibiting  the  general  symptoms,  shows 
marked  enlargement  of  the  body,  from  generation  of  gas,  which, 
when  not  checked  and  neutralized,  results  fatally  by  rupturing 
the  diaphragm,  causing  death. 

The  causes  of  colic  are  drinking  cold  water  when  in  a  heated 
condition,  costiveness,  unwholesome  food,  and  the  application  of 
cold  water  to  the  body,  &c. 

Premonitory  symptoms  are  sudden.  The  animal  paws  violently, 
showing  evidences  of  great  distress,  shifting  his  position  con- 
stantly, and  manifesting  a  desire  to  lie  down. 

In  a  few  minutes  these  symptoms  disappear  and  the  horse  is 
easy. 

He  may  also  act  as  if  he  desired  to  make  water,  which  he  is 
unable  to  do,  there  being  a  spasmodic  contraction  of  the  urethra. 
Hence  the  desire  to  give  diuretic  medicine.  Straining  in  this 
way  is  usually  prompted  by  a  desire  to  relieve  the  muscles  of  the 
belly.  No  diuretic  remedy  should  be  given  the  horse,  as  he 
cannot  pass  the  urine  until  the  attack  of  colic  ceases,  or  it  is 
taken  from  him  with  a  catheter. 


88  DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE. 

But  the  same  uneasiness  soon  returns,  increasing  in  severity 
until  the  animal  cannot  remain  on  his  feet;  the  pulse  is  full, 
scarcely  altered  from  its  normal  condition. 

A  cold  sweat  breaks  out  over  the  body ;  the  temperature  of  the 
leers  and  ears  natural. 


First  stage  of  Spasmodic  Colic. 

As  the  disease  advances  the  symptoms  become  more  severe,,  the 
animal  throwing  himself  down  with  force  and  looks  anxiously  at 
the  sides,  snapping  with  his  teeth  at  his  sides,  looking  anxiously 
at  his  belly,  and  striking  upward  with  the  hind  feet,  showing 
almost  the  same  symptoms  as  in  inflammation  of  the  bowels. 

To  better  point  out  the  peculiarities  or  characteristics  of  each 
trouble,  I  will  say : 

Colic  is  sudden  in  its  attacks.  Legs  and  ears  of  natural  tem- 
perature. Eubbing  the  belly  gives  relief.  Relief  obtained  from 
motion.  Pulse,  in  the  early  stage  of  the  disease,  not  much 
quickened  or  altered  in  its  character.  Intervals  of  rest.  Strength 
hardly  affected. 

Inflammation  of  the  bowels :  Gradual  in  its  approach,  with 
previous  indications  of  fever.  Pulse,  much  quickened,  small, 
often  scarcely  to  be  felt.  Legs  and  ears  cold.  Motion  increases 
pain. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE.  89 

Rapid  and  Great  Weakness.  Constant  Pain.— This  disease  being 
wholly  of  a  spasmodic  nature,  it  must  be  counteracted  by  anti- 
spasmodic treatment;  and  laudanum  being  the  most  powerful 
and  reliable  anti-spasmodic,  it  is  here  indicated. 

Treatment.— Give  in  a  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil,  from  two  to  three 
ounces  of  laudanum. 

If  not  better  in  an  hour  give  two  ounces  each  of  oil  and 
laudanum. 

The  following  remedy  is  considered  one  of  the  best  in  use  for 
the  cure  of  either  form  of  colic  : 

Colic  Remedy. 

Opium £ft>. 

Sulph.  ether 1  pint. 

Aromatic  Spirits  Ammonia 1  pint. 

Sweet  Spirits  Nitre 2  pints. 

Asafcetida  (pure) £  ft. 

Camphor i  ft. 

Bottle  and  let  it  stand  fourteen  days,  with  frequent  shaking, 
and  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Dose— One  ounce,  more  or  less,  according  to  severity  of  the 
case,  once  in  from  thirty  minutes  to  an  hour.  Give  in  a  little 
water. 

To  enable  its  immediate  use,  substitute  same  proportion  of 
tincture  for  the  gum. 

Flatulent  Colic. 

Same  symptoms  as  spasmodic  colic,  except  that  the  accumula- 
tion of  gas  in  the  stomach  and  intestines  is  such  as  to  cause 
the  belly  to  swell. 

This  disease  often  proves  fatal  in  two  or  three  hours. 

Generally  it  attacks  the  horse  very  suddenly,  often  occurring 
while  the  animal  is  at  work,  particularly  during  warm,  or  change- 


90  DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE. 

able  weather,  from  cold  to  heat.      Indigestion  is  a  general  cause, 
producing  gas  in  the  stomach  and  bowels. 

The  two  locations  and  causes  for  this  disease  are — the  stomach, 
colon  and  coecum. 

When  in  the  stomach  it  will  be  known  by  eructations  or  belch- 
ing of  gas  through  the  esophagus  or  gullet. 

If  from  the  coecum  or  colon,  the  horse  is  violently  swollen 
along  the  belly  and  sides. 

The  pulse  rarely  is  disturbed  until  the  disease  advances,  when 
it  will  become  quickened,  running  to  its  height  quickly  and 
receding  as  rapidly  if  fatal. 


First  stage  of  Flatulent  Colic. 

If  to  terminate  fatally  it  will  become  weaker  and  slower  until 
it  is  almost  imperceptible. 

Should  the  animal  suddenly  fall  down  during  great  pressure  of 
gas  against  the  walls  of  the  stomach,  there  is  danger  of  rupturing 
the  diaphragm,  causing  almost  instant  death  from  suffocation. 

Treatment — Keep  up  evaporation  of  the  body  as  much  as 
possible  by  sweating  with  blankets.  A  hot  bath  would  be  still 
better.  If  you  have  on  hand  the  remedy  recommended  for  spas- 
modic colic,  give  at  once  as  directed.  Should  it  not  be  available, 
give  a  drench  of  the  following  : 

Sulph.  ether 2  oz. 

Peppermint 2  oz. 

Laudanum 1  oz. 

Soft  Water 1  pint. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE.  91 

If  the  horse  is  not  too  sick  to  get  up  during  the  intervals  of 
administering  the  mixture,,  keep  him  in  motion.  Eepeat  the  dose 
in  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  if  not  improved. 

There  is  great  danger  of  the  diaphragm  being  ruptured,  through 
the  distention  of  the  intestines,  in  this  disease. 

To  keep  the  animal  on  his  feet  in  the  stall,  and  prevent  those 
violent  falls  and  rolling  about,  and  to  avoid  irritation  or  action  on 
the  bowels,  it  would  be  advisable  to   walk  the  horse  as  slowly  as 


Last  stage  of  Colic. 

possible',  led  by  the  head  to  prevent  falling  or  rolling,  until  such 
time  as  the  treatment  has  had  the  desired  effect. 

Catarrh  or  Cold. 

Colds,  if  neglected,  may  lead  to  serious  consequences,  and  are 
of  common  occurrence.  By  a  little  rest  and  nursing,  in  time  the 
system  will  soon  resume  its  normal  condition. 

Usually,  the  symptoms  are  a  slight  mere  use  of  the  pulse,  followed 
by  a  slight  discharge  from  the  nose;  loss  of  appetite;  hair  roughed; 
and  a  cough,  which  sometimes  is  quite  severe.  Give  aconite  as  for  a 
fever,  and  blanket  warmly.  Give  bran  mashes,  etc.  In  serious 
cases,  it  may  run  into  inflammation  of  the  air  passages,  as  bronchitis 
or  laryngitis.  Give  fever  medicine,  and  alternate  with  belladonna. 
Aim  to  keep  up  the  strength.  Put  on  a  bag  made  of  coarse,  loose 
cloth,  into  which  put  some  hot  bran,  on  which  throw  an  ounce  or  too 
of  turpentine.  Hang  the  sack  on  the  horse's  head,  being  careful  to 
leave  an  opening  to  allow  some  "of  the  steam  to  escape,  so  it  will 
not  scald  his  nose.     A  repetition  of  this   treatment  a  few  times  will 


92  DISEASE    OF    THE    HOESE. 

start  the  nose  running  freely.     Complete  this  treatment  with  judi- 
cious1 rest  and  care. 

To  relieve  obstinate  inflammation  of  the  throat  and  air-passages, 
apply  a  good  liniment  to  the  throat  and  chest.  This  will  stimulate 
the  surface. 

Strangles,  or  Distemper. 

This  form  of  sore  throat  has  for  its  design  the  throwing  off  of 
some  poisonous  matter  from  the  system.  You  should  keep  up  the 
strength  of  the  animal,  and  hasten  suppuration.  The  horse's  neck 
becomes  sore  and  stiff,  and  there  is  an  enlargement  which  is  hard 
at  first;  the  nose  discharges  matter.     The  horse  generally  becomes 


Strangles,  or  Distemper. 

worse,  and,  when  very  bad,  causes  suffocation ;  he  is  able  to  eat  very 
little,  and  he  loses  strength  rapidly.  A  poultice  of  warm  vinegar  and 
bran,  freely  used  and  changed  as  often  as  it  becomes  dry,  will  do 
much  good  if  applied  until  the  enlargement  becomes  soft,  and  can  be 
opened. 

Another  treatment  is  to  take  spirits  of  camphor,  one  part  ;  spirits 
of  turpentine,  two  parts;  laudanum,  one  part.  Apply  to  the 
neck  with  a  brush  three  or  four  times  a  day  until  soreness  is  pro- 
duced. After  each  application,  put  three  or  four  thick  pieces  of 
flannel  over  the  parts,  binding  them  on  with  a  bandage.  When 
the   tumor     comes    to    a    bead    or    point,    open    it    to    allow    the 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE.  93 

matter  to  escape  thoroughly.  In  case  the  swelling  is  very  deep, 
and  causes  serious  soreness  and  swelling  of  the  throat,  nurse  the 
horse  carefully  by  feeding  with  warm  gruel,  give  warm  drink, 
tempt  his  appetite  with  grass,  &c.  Rubbing  the  enlargement 
with  fly  blister,  to  bring  it  to  a  head,  is  often  resorted  to. 
No  physic  should  be  given. 

Poll-Evil  and  Fistula  of  the  Withers. 

The  treatment  of  these  difficulties  is  the  same  for  one  as  for  the 
other — their  characters  being  the  same. 

Poll-Evil  is  oftentimes  caused  by  the  poll  striking  a  beam 
or  against  the  floor.  Sometimes  it  may  be  the  result  of  con- 
stitutional predisposition. 

When  the  enlargement  and  inflammation  are  first  noticed,  you 
may  may  be  able  to  dispose  of  it  by  giving  a  dose  of  physic  and 
applying  cooling  applications  to  the  part. 

If  the  inflammation  has  not  become  reduced,  clip  the  hair 
from  the  part  and  rub  on  some  blistering  ointment. 

Should  the  swelling  enlarge,  open  and  allow  the  pus  to  escape. 

In  the  treatment  of  all  ulcers  keep  one  point  in  mind,  which 
is,  to  make  an  opening  at  the  bottom  if  you  can,  to  allow  the 
matter  to  run  out,  as  matter  will  always  burrow  toward  the 
bottom. 

This  is  done  by  running  a  seaton  through,  bringing  it  out 
just  below  the  bottom  of  the  wound. 

Wash  out  the  sore  clean.  It  should  be  afterwards  bathed  with 
any  of  the  healing  preparations  for  ulcers  given  in  another 
page. 

If  pipes  are  formed  requiring  caustic  medicine,  use  either  chloride 
of  zinc,  corrosive  sublimate,  or  any  strong  escorotic  to  destroy  this 
growth,  after  which  treat  as  before. 


94  DISEASES    OP    HOEBE. 

These  difficulties  require  proper  dressing  daily. 

Fistula  of  the  Withers  should  be  treated  in    the   same   manner. 

The  principle  of  treating  these  difficulties  is  the  same  as  that 
for  deep-seated  ulcers. 

Special  directions  for  the  treatment  of  them  will  be  found  under 
the  head  of  Ulcers,  &c. 

Sweeny. 

All  reliable  practitioners  have  discarded  Sweeny  as  a  fictitious 
disease.  It  is  claimed  that  Sweeney  is  the  effect  of  diseases  of 
the  feet,  such  as  ossification  of  the  lateral  cartilage,  contraction, 
corns,  navicular  diseases,  etc.,  producing  atrophy  of  the  muscles  of 
the  shoulder,  and  their  treatment  would  be  to  remove  the  cause, 
and  the  effect  would  disappear. 

To  follow  a  local  treatment  of  Sweeney,  or  filling-up  of  the 
shoulder,  you  do  so  by  the  application  of  most  any  stimulating 
treatment. 

The  simplest  and  best,  never-failing  remedy  is  the  application  of 
soft-soap. 

Horsemen  consider  it  invaluable.  Add  a  little  salt  to  soft-soap, 
and  rub  on  the  parts  thoroughly  four  or  five  times  during  the 
week. 

Four  or  five  applications  will  fill  up  the  depression  of  a  bad  case. 

The  regular  treatment  consists  of  seatoning  and  blistering,  but  the 
above  will  answer  for  local  treatment. 

Spavins — two  hinds. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  Spavin,  jack  and  occult  or  consolidated 
oint. 

The  first  is  situated  at  the  upper  portion  of  the  metatarsal  bone  at 
its  juncture  with  cuboid  bones. 

Spavins  of  both  kinds  have  their  origin  from  the  same  causes — 


DISEASES   OF   THE    HORSE.  95 

inflammation  of  the  cartilage  of  the  joint  in  the  first  instance 
and  extending  to  ulceration  of  the  bone,  consequently  bony  matter 
is  thrown  out,  uniting  more  or  less  of  the  hock  and  excess  of  matter 
and  ulceration  of  the  bones  from  the  enlargement. 

The  causes  of  Spavin,  though  numerous,  are  traceable  principally 
to  sprains,  blows  and  hard  work,  or  any  cause  exciting  inflammation 
of  this  part. 


Bone  Spavin. 
At  the  beginning  the  symptoms  are  treacherous. 

Horses  are  often  treated  for  hip  lameness  before  any  enlargement 
makes  its  appearance. 

The  horse,  while  laboring  under  acute  inflammation  of  the  hock 
joint,  is  at  first  very  lame. 

Generally,  the  tumor  makes  its  appearance  from  the  fifth  to  the 
eighth  week.  At  times,  the  lameness  is  gradual — hardly  perceptible 
at  first — becoming  worse  until  there  is  a  decided  lameness  at  starting, 
which  will  in  a  short  time  wear  off  as  the  horse  becomes  warmed 
up. 

There  are  various  remedies  and  applications.  Some  men  pretend 
to  remove  spavins.     The  skillful  practitioner  knows  better.     It  will 


96  DISEASES    OF    THE    HOESE. 

be  seen  that  if  such  people  can  remove  the  external  tumor,  they 
cannot  separate  the  bones  that  are  united,  and  horses  may  be  spa- 
vined without  any  visible  enlargement. 

Blood  Spavin. 


Natural  Action.  Spavined  Leg. 

Take  cantharides  2  oz.,  mercurial  ointment  4  oz.,  tincture  of  iodine 
3  oz.,  turpentine  4  oz.,  corrosive  sublimate  3  drams  ;  mix  well  with 
lib  lard.      After  well  blistered,  dress  with  calomel  salve. 


Blood  Spavin. 

This  disease,  when  once  well  seated,  is  incurable;  but  if  taken  in 
its  acute  state,  bandaging  tight  and  kept  wet  with  cold  water  is  the 
best  treatment. 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HORSE.  97 

Heaves 

Are  produced  by  driving  the  horse  against  a  heavy  current  of  air, 
and  inhaling  an  excess  of  air;  thus  overcharging  the  lungs,  they 
become  ruptured,  and  when  once  ruptured,  can  never  be  cured  The 
food  should  be  well  wet,  so  that  he  will  inhale  no  dust  while  eating, 
as  it  is  very  injurious.  The  dust  of  a  threshing  machine  for  one' 
day  is  worse  than  to  feed  with  clover-hay  for  a  month. 

Glanders. 
Glanders  is  an  affection  of  the  glands  of  the  head,  and  may  be 
known  by  a  flow  of  white  matter  from  one  or  both  nostrils,  accom- 
panied  by  an  offensive  smell.  It  may  be  told  from  common  dis- 
temper, as  the  secretions  from  distemper  will  float  on  water,  while 
that  from  glanders  will  sink  immediately.  It  cannot  be  cure'd,  but 
may  be  relieved. 

Lockjaw,  or  Tetanus, 
Is  produced  from  some  injury  received  by  the  nervous  system,  injury 
to  the  spinal  column,  a  rap  on  the  top  of  the  head,  a  nail  driven  into 
the  quick  by  the  smith,  or  one  picked  up  on  the  road. 

Symptoms. 

He  stretches  himself  at  full  length,  hangs  his  head  down,  is  stiff 
all  over,  his  jaws  immovably  fixed. 

Treatment—Open  his  bowels  with  a  drench  of  ten  drams  of  aloes, 
three  drams  calomel,  in  one  pint  of  linseed  oil.  Keep  him  in  a  com- 
fortable box,  feed  him  on  whatever  he  can  eat— bran  mashes,  boiled 
oats,  or,  if  he  is  very  bad,  give  him  a  sloppy  drink  of  oat-meal,  rye- 
meal,  or  linseed-meal,  whichever  he  can  take. 

Bots. 
Bots  are  one  of  the  natural  appendages  of  the  stomach  of  a  horse 
—as  much  so  as  his  lungs,  arteries,  nerves,  or  any  other  essential  part 
of  his  vital  organism.     They  never  injure  the  horse. 

They  have  been  placed  in  the  stomach  of  all  horses  by  nature,  for 
a  specific  purpose,  and  no  horse  can  live  without  them  in  the  stomach 
a 


98  DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE. 

They  are  in  the  stomach  of  all  horses  at  the  time  of  foaling,  and 
number  about  the  same — or  no  more  or  less — at  any  age  of  the  horse. 
They  never  lose  their  hold  of  the  lining  of  the  stomach  under  any 
circumstances.  The  heart  was  given  to  propel  the  blood  ;  the  lungs 
to  breathe  j  the  eye,  to  see ;  the  ear,  to  hear ;  and  the  bots,  to  aid 
digestion.  The  life  and  health  of  the  horse  is  dependent  upon  the 
bots.  When  the  horse  is  sick  the  bots  are  sick  ;  any  description  of 
food  good  for  the  horse  is  good  for  the  bots.  They  never  injure  a 
horse  except  when  they  become  diseased — the  same  as  any  other  vital 
part.  If  your  horse  is  over-heated  or  exhausted  from  work,  and  is 
attacked  with  colic  or  any  description  of  inflammation,  the  bots  suffer 
equally  with  the  horse ;  anything  given  the  horse  that  will  kill  the 
bots,  is  liable  to  kill  the  horse  also.  "When  you  keep  your  horse  in 
good  condition,  well  and  regularly  fed,  there  is  no  danger.  Bots 
have  been  used  heretofore  to  cover  up  the  ignorance  of  the  farrier. 
If  your  horse  dies  of  inflammation  of  the  brain  they  would  say  he 
died  of  bots ;  if  he  dies  of  lung  fever  the  same  thing  is  said  ;  if  he 
dies  of  colic  or  anything  else,  it  is  always  attributed  to  the  bots — 
when,  in  fact,  no  horse  ever  died  directly  from  their  effects. 

The  quid  has  been  given  to  the  sheep  and  cow,  so  that  they  may 
belch  up  their  food  and  ruminate  or  re-chew  it,  thereby  preparing  it 
for  the  digestive  organs,  while  the  bots  have  been  given  to  the  horse 
to  perform  the  same  work  for  him,  without  taxing  him  with  the  labor 
of  re-chewing ;  besides,  his  owner  might  require  some  hard  or  fast 
work  of  him,  just  at  the  time  when  he  should  be  re-chewing  his  food. 
The  gad-fly  or  nit-bee  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  production  of  the 
bot,  no  more  than  the  horse-fly,  buffalo-gnat,  or  any  other  fly ;  all 
the  harm  they  do  is  the  tickling  and  buzzing  sensation  that  they  pro- 
duce in  the  particularly  ticklish  portion  of  the  horse  that  they  visit ; 
the  wasp,  hornet,  and  other  insects,  torment  horses,  yet  there  are 


DISEASES   OF   THE    HORSE.  99 

no  bots  ever  attributed  to  any  of  them ;  you  can  punish  a  horse  as 
much  with  a  fine  straw  or  a  piece  of  paper  twisted  to  a  point,  by 
tickling  him  under  the  throat,  in  the  flank,  or  upon  the  legs,  as  much 
as  the  gad-fly  does,  or  by  catching  a  fly  and  holding  close  to  his 
ear  while  it  makes  a  buzzing  noise,  all  of  which  he  attempts  to  escape 
from,  as  much  as  from  the  presence  of  the  gad-fly.  It  is  impossible 
for  him  to  lick  or  bite  the  nits  from  off  his  legs,  belly  or  throat, 
without  pulling  the  hair  off,  and  as  no  horse  ever  swallows  any  hair, 
it  is  impossible  for  them  to  be  carried  into  the  stomach ;  besides, 
there  are  thousands  of  horses  in  warm  climates,  and  in  stables,  that 
never  see  any  gad-flies,  yet  all  horses  have  bots. 

All  that  has  been  written  in  connection  with  the  gad-flies  produc- 
ing bots,  and  all  of  the  technical  terms  used  to  illustrate  them  and 
their  effects,  have  been  to  fill  works  upon  the  horse. 

Bots,  as  a  disease  in  horses,  like  that  of  the  kmpas  and  many  other 
old  notions,  will  soon  be  obsolete. 

Lamp  as. 

Lampas  is  a  fullness  and  inflammation  of  the  front  portion  of  the 
roof  of  the  mouth,  near  the  teeth. 

I  here  have  to  combat  with  an  old-established  opinion,  that  lam- 
pas is  a  disease  in  horses ;  but  eighteen  years'  experience  has  taught 
me  that  there  is  no  such  disease. 

The  gums  of  all  young  horses  are  swollen  below  the  teeth,  as 
nature  intended  they  should  be,  and  all  of  the  discomforts  of  the 
horse  attributed  to  lampas,  is  the  effect  of  improper  feed  and  bad 
care.  You  never  find  a  horse  of  five  years  old  with  lampers  ;  at  this 
age  the  gums  recede  above  the  teeth,  and  continue  to  do  so  as  they 
grow  older. 

The  practice  of  burning  colts  for  the  lampas  is  a  severe  and  savage 
practice,  destroying  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and  the  power  of  retain- 
ing the  food  until  it  can  be  well  masticated. 

The  hard  gristly  bars  in  the  roof  of  all  colts'  mouths,  have  been 


100  DISEASES    OE    THE    HOESE. 

placed  there  by  nature  for  specific  purposes.  1st,  it  is  quite  insen- 
sible to  the  touch,  and  with  this  hard  bar  he  picks  grass  and  grinds 
his  feed  while  his  teeth  are  tender  and  being  shed ;  2nd,  a  large  artery 
terminates  in  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and  those  bars  hare  been  placed 
there  to  protect  it  from  rupture.  To  relieve  him,  give  him  plenty  of 
oats  and  bran  well  wet  up ;  give  him  plenty  of  carrots,  turnips  or 
potatoes,  plenty  of  nice  clover  hay,  clean  water,  fresh  air,  a  dry  bed, 
and  you  will  never  be  troubled  with  lampas.  You  might  as  well 
burn  off  one  ear,  or  burn  out  one  ere  (then  he  w@uld  have  one  ear  to 
hear  with,  and  one  eye  to  see  with)  ;  but  when  you  burn  out  his 
mouth,  he  has  nothing  to  suppl  it  with,  and  you  disable  and  per- 
petually torture  him. 

To  Strengthen  the  Tendons  After  Hard  Driving,  and  Reduce  the 
Swelling  of  the  Legs. 

Camphor  Gum  |  oz. 

Grum  Myrrh 1  oz. 

Oil  of  Spike 1  oz. 

Alcohol 1  pt. 

Organum 1  oz. 

Beef's  Gall 1  ordinary  size. 

Wash  and  rub  dry,  then  apply  the  liniment ;  after  winch  rub  dry  j 
again  apply  the  liniment  to  the  limb  and  bandage  moderately  tight. 

This  remedy  I  consider  the  best  ever  used  for  the  purpose  recom- 
mended. 

Grease  Reels. 

This  is  a  greasy,  white,  offensive  discharge  from  the  heels  of  the 
horse.  The  skin  becomes  tender,  hot  and  swollen.  The  acrid  charac- 
ter of  the  discharge  causes  portion*  of  the  skin  to  slough  away, 
leaving  an  ugly  sore. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE.  101 

Treatment— with  the  following  ball  open  the  bowels  :— 

Pulverised  Gentian  Boot 2  drams. 

Barbadoes  Aloes  1  oz> 

Pulverised  Ginger   1  dram. 

Water sufficient  to  make  the  ball. 

Poultice  and  wash  the  parts  well  for  two  or  three  days  with  the 
following :— Flaxseed  meal,  mixed  with  a  solution  of  2  drams  sul- 
phate of  zinc,  to  a  pint  of  water,  which— keep  clean— bathe  often 
with  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime  or  of  zinc.  Glycerine  can  also  be 
used. 

Scratches — Cure. 

Glycerine j.  oz 

Tincture  Arnica    4,  oz_ 

In  several  cases,  where  heels  are  cracked,  add  : 

Tincture  of  Myrrh     2  oz. 

Iodine 1  oz. 

Gunpowder  (powdered  fine)    i  oz. 

Put  in  bottle  and  shake  well. 

Apply  two  or  three  times  a  day.  First,  give  the  horse  a  few  bran 
mashes. 

Quitter. 

This  is  a  formation  of  pus  between  the  hoof  and  the  soft  structure 
within.  A  sore  at  the  coronet,  or  upper  part  of  the  foot,  which  at 
first  is  a  hard,  smooth  tumor,  soon  becomes  soft  and  breaks,  dis- 
charging quantities  of  pus. 

Treatment.— Poultice  the  foot  for  several  clays  with  flaxseed  meal 
As  soon  as  the  hoof  becomes  soft,  cut  away  the  loose  portions, 
but  no  more,  and  inject  with  a  syringe  the  following  once  a 
day  :— 

Nitrate  of  silver,  2  drams  in  a  pint  of  water  ;    or 
Chloride  of  zinc,  2  drams  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  water  ;  or 
Sulphate  of  zinc,  1|  drams  in  a  pint  of  water. 
Glycerine  is  sometimes  used  advantageously. 


102  DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE. 

Clean  the  foot  well  with  castile  soap  and  water  before  vising  the 
wash. 

Mange. 

Place  your  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him  thoroughly  with 
castile  soap  and  water  ;  then  wash  him  well  with  gas  water,  putting 
in  the  water  2  drams  of  white  hellebore  to  the  gallon.  Then  change- 
him  from  his  old  stable  to  another  one.  One  washing  generally 
cures  permanently. 

Thoroughly  scrub  the  harness  and  put  it  away  for  six  or  eight 
weeks,  as  a  necessary  precaution  against  the  disease. 

Mange  Treatment  No.  2. 

Linseed  Oil    6  oz. 

Oil  Turpentine 4  oz. 

Oil  Tar    4  oz. 

Mix. 

Fatal  Disease  of  the  Foot. 

The  report  of  the  Statistician  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
in  the  Commissioner's  report  of  1869,  states  that  a  number  of  horses 
hare  died  of  a  peculiar  disease  of  the  foot,  and  says  that  diagnosis 
shows  a  separation  of  the  ligaments  of  the  coffin-joint  and  the  foot. 

It  reads  :  "  The  foot  turns  up,  causing  the  animal  to  walk  on  the- 
ankle.  The  flexor-tendons  are  literally  severed  from  the  laminae,  and 
the  foot  will  drop  off  by  simply  cutting  through  the  skin  with  a 
knife.  None  have  ever  been  cured  and  no  one  appears  to  know 
the  cause  of  the  difficulty. 

No  cases  so  extreme  as  those  described  by  the  Statistician  have 
come  to  our  personal  knowledge,  but  we  have  little  doubt  that 
it  will  prove  on  investigation,  which  we  are  making,  that  the  cause  of 
the  terrible  malady  is  in  the  use  of  shoes  of  improper  con- 
struction, neglect  of  the  form  of  the  foot,  a  proper  form  of 
which  is  so  essential  to  health,  and  the  too  liberal  use  of 
cold  water  on  the  feet  and  legs,  when  the  animal  was  in  a 
heated  condition,  or  too  much  dampness  of  the  stable  or  pastures  in 
which  the  animals  were  kept,  or,  perhaps,  all  combined. 


DISEASES    OF    TIIE    HOESE.  103 

Nasal  Gleet. 

The  result  of  neglected  catarrh  is  a  chronic  discharge,  from  one  or 
both  nostrils,  of  a  whitish,  muco-purulent  matter. 

The  animal  looks,  feeds  and  works  well,  though  he  has  this  dis- 
charge, which  is  caused  by  weakness  in  the  secretory  vessels  of  the 
lining  membrane  of  the  nose. 

A  treatment  on  the  tonic  principle  has  been  successfully  used  in 
this  disorder.     Purging  and  bleeding  are  decidedly  hurtful. 

Give  one  of  the  following  powders  night  and  morning  : 

Carbonate  of  Iron 1  oz. 

Gentian,  pulverised 1  oz. 

Quassia,  „  1  oz. 

Divide  into  four  powders. 

Or— 

Sequi-chloride  of  iron 2  oz. 

Cinnamon 1  oz. 

Divide  into  four  powders. 

Or— 

JSux  Vomica,  pulverised \  oz. 

Linseed  Meal 2  oz. 

Divide  into  eight  powders. 

Or— 

Muriate  of  Barytes \  oz. 

Linseed  Meal 1  oz. 

Divide  into  eight  powders.  The  best  known.  One  should  be 
given  night  and  morning. 

Cure  of  Farcy. 

Black  Antimony 1  oz. 

Saltpetre §  lb. 

Sulphur  i  lb. 

If  acute :  Dose — One  tablespoonful  twice  a  day.  If  sub-acute, 
once  or  twice  a  week. 


104  DISEASES    OF    THE    HOESE. 

I  give  for  this  formidable  disease  : 

Three  drams  powdered  sulphate  of  copper,  given  every  night  in 
the  food  until  the  horse  refuses  to  eat. 

Repeat  in  a  few  days,  but  if  the  case  is  bad,  give  the  medicine 
in  water  as  a  drench,  for  ten  days,  if  he  will  not  take  it  in 
his  food. 

Ringbone. 

Many  have  supposed  and  asserted  that  this  unsoundness  in  the 
horse  was  inheritable.  This  is  erroneous,  as  Ringbones  are  the 
result  of  injuries,  and  often  occur  when  the  colt  is  but  a  few  days 
old,  especially  if  it  is  compelled  to  follow  the  dam  too  far  on  a 
hard  road,  before  the  feet  have  acquired  sufficient  strength  and 
solidity.  Requiring  the  young  foal  to  stand  on  a  hard  floor  will 
also  produce  them.  They  are  produced  in  the  horse,  after  he  has 
arrived  at  the  age  to  be  shod,  by  allowing  the  toes  of  the  feet  to 
get  too  long ;  from  slipping  on  the  ice  ;  shoeing  without  support 
to  the  soles  ;  tramping  on  the  feet  by  other  horses,  and  various 
other  causes. 

The  Ringbone  is  a  knot,  or  excrescence  of  ossified  bone,  usually 
forming  in  the  region  of  the  articulation  of  the  coffin  and  lower 
pastern  bones  ;  hence,  they  destroy,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree, 
the  action  of  that  very  important  joint,  and  generally  produce 
permanent  lameness. 

Prevention  by  care  and  good  management  is  more  simple  than 
cure. 

In  purchasing  a  horse  it  will  be  prudent  to  examine  all  the 
feet  by  the  pressure  of  the  finger  on  the  skin  all  around  the  pastern, 
from  the  lower  margin  of  the  hair  to  the  height  of  three  inches, 
as  Ringbone  may  sometimes  be  detected  in  this  manner  when 
it  is  not  visible,  especially  in  the  incipient  state.  We  have  seen 
excrescences  form  on  the  bone  near  the  foot  from  bruises,  which 
never  produced  lameness,  though  they  are  suspicious  blemishes. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HOESE.  105 

Use  a  strong  blister  in  its  acute  state ;  if  of  old  standing  its  cure 
is  difficult  and  doubtful. 

Sprains  in  the  Stifle. 

Symptoms. — The  liorse  holds  up  his  foot,  moans  when  moved, 
swells  in  stifle  ;  this  is  what  is  called  stifling.  There  is  no  such 
thing  as  this  joint  getting  out  of  place.  It  gets  sprained  the  same 
as  any  other  joint,  and  the  patella  may  slip  from  its  place,  which 
acts  as  a  stay  to  the  joint. 

The  tendons  and  ligaments  become  contracted,  and  lameness 
follows.  To  relieve  it,  foment  the  joint  well,  stimulate  it  with  some 
strong  linament  or  a  slight  blister. 

The  Nerve  Operation. 

A  most  barbarous  operation  called  "nerving,"  or  "neurotomy," 
was  discovered  in  England,  and  was  subsequently  introduced  into  this 
country ;  nothing  more  disgraceful  was  ever  imported  into  any 
country  claiming  civilization. 

It  consisted  in  laying  bare,  taking  up  and  cutting  out  from  an  inch 
to  one  and  a  half  inches  of  the  metacarpal  nerve,  producing  the 
most  excruciating  pain.  We  illustrate  the  operation  for  the  purpose 
of  exposing  the  cruelty  of  it,  that  no  one  will  ever  be  guilty  of  such 
wanton  torture  again. 

By  reference  to  the  annexed  plate  (page  106),  it  will  be  sufficiently 
explained. 

We  would  suggest  as  a  humane  substitute  for  this  operation,  to 
shoot  the  horse  in  the  brain,  and  thus  put  an  end  to  the  suffering  of 
the  pitiable  animal  as  speedily  as  possible. 

If  a  proper  shoe  is  applied  when  the  horse  is  first  shod,  and  its 
vise  continued,  all  the  organs  of  the  foot  will  be  maintained  in  their 


106 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE. 


natural,  respective  and  relative  positions,  and  health,  vigor  and  pro- 
tracted usefulness  will  be  secured,  and  there  will  be  no  necessity  for 
the  brutal  operation  of  neurotomy. 


Eeferences— Tipper  Section.— a,  A  prober  passed  under  .the  nerve;   b,  the 
nerve  ;  c,  the  artery ;  d,  the  back  sinews,  or  flexor  tendons. 

Lower  Section. — a,  The  nerve;  b,  the  artery;  c,  the  vein;  d,  a  bran  n- °f  the 
nerve  between  the  vein  and  artery,  not  divided  in  the  low  operation. 


Sow  to  Treat  Contracted  Feei. 

By  reference  to  the  foot  in  the  plate  illustrating  the  process   of 
nerving,  three  grooves  will  be  seen  in  the  wall. 

These  grooves  we  make  in  the  hard  crust  of  the  foot  of  patients 
suffering  from  long  standing,  and    severe  contraction  of    the  heels. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HORSE.  107 

The  forward  groove  is  placed  directly  over  the  points  or  wings 
of  the  coffin-bone,  where  the  pressure  of  the  contracted  wall 
is  most  severe  on  the  metacarpal  nerve ;  back  of  this  we 
cut  two  others  parallel.  These  grooves  should  be  cut  from 
one-eighth  to  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  depth  and  the  same  width, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  wall  and  the  extent  of  the 
contractions.  We  use  a  narrow  gouge  with  which  to  cut  the  grooves, 
and  cut  them  before  the  shoe  is  set,  by  placing  the  bottom  of  the  foot 
on  a  block  some  twenty  inches  in  height,  and  use  a  light  mallet  to 
drive  the  gouge. 

The  operation  of  grooving,  three  on  the  outer  and  two  on  the  inner 
side  of  the  foot,  does  not  require  more  than  five  or  ten  minutes,  and 
may  be  done  by  any  person  of  ordinary  judgment,  as  it  only  requires- 
a  little  care  not  to  cut  the  groove  so  deep  as  to  disturb  the  sensitive 
portion  of  the  foot,  which  will  be  indicated  by  blood  showing  in  the 
bottom  of  the  groove,  a  slight  show  of  which  need  not  alarm  the 
operator,  though  it  is  preferable  to  take  sufficient  time  and  care  in 
performing  the  operation,  to  do   it  in  the  best  possible  manner,  as 


Shoe  for  Spreading  the  Heal. 
it  doubles  the  value  of  the  horse  the  instant  the  operation  is  com- 
pleted and  our  shoe   for   spreading  the  heel  is  properly  set.      The- 
above  cut   is  a   drawing  of  this   shoe,  with  five  nail-holes  in  front 
and  none  in  the  heels. 


108  DISEASES    OF    THE    HOESE. 

This  shoe  is  generally  understood  by  the  skilled  blacksmith,  and 
requires  great  care  in  the  fitting  to  make  it  perform  its  desired  work, 
which  is  to  spread  the  heel  slowly. 

It  will  be  seen  by  the  cut  that  the  portion  of  the  shoe  resting  on 
the  heel  is  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  higher  on  the  inside  than 
on  the  outside  at  the  heel.  In  fact,  the  shoe  is  convexed  from  the 
last  nail  to  the  heel.  The  cut  represents  the  surface  of  the  shoe  next 
to  the  hoof.  The  shoe  should  be  a  trifle  wider  at  the  heel  than 
the  hoof.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  shoe  does  not  rest  on  the  sole 
of  the  foot,  but  bear  on  the  wall. 

The  best  way  to  fit  this  shoe  is  to  fit  it  cold  as  well  as  you  can. 

Then  heat  it  and  apply  it  to  the  hoof,  and  make  an  impression  on  the 

foot  with  the  hot  shoe.     This  will  enable  the  smith  to  get  a  better  fit 

than  he  could   by  fitting  it  cold.     Aitec  these  grooves  are  made  in 

the  hoof,  and  the  above  shoe   properly  fitted,  it  will   at  once  double 

the  value  of  the  horse. 

Founder. 

Founder  is  produced  by  the  sudden  transition  from  heat  to  cold* 
For  instance,  by  driving  a  horse  until  he  is  hot,  then  allowing  him 
to  stand  in  a  cold  current  of  air,  or  giving  him  a  heavy  draught  of 
cold  water  while  warm,  thereby  checking  the  circulation  of  the  blood 
to  the  extremities.  It  is  frequently  produced  by  driving  fast  on  hard 
roads,  which  produce  inflammation  of  the  delicate  plates  called  la- 
minae, by  which  the  hoof  is  attached  to  the  sensitive  foot.  It  also 
occurs  from  overloading  the  stomach  by  too  much  wheat,  oats,  barley 
or  peas,  as  h  often  seen  when  a  horse  gets  loose  during  the  night, 
getting  to  the  grain-bin ;  the  food,  taken  into  the  stomach  in  such 
large  quantities,  and  a  portion  of  it  dry,  when  wet  by  the  stomach, 
swells  to  such  an  extent  that  it  prevents  the  blood  from  circulating, 
and  produces  founder. 

No  horse  will  be  foundered  from  giving  him  his  ordinary  amount 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HORSE.  109 

of  feed  at  any  time.  Symptoms :  Shivering  and  uneasiness ;  he 
refuses  his  food,  moves  about  with  the  fore-feet,  and  seems  restless ; 
the  mouth  is  hot,  the  pulse  full  and  quickened  ;  soon  the  pain 
in  the  feet  becomes  evident,  he  sometimes  inclines  to  lie,  points 
with  the  muzzle  to  the  feet,  which  are  hot  and  tender;  he 
advances   them  in   front,    resting   principally   on    the   heels ;     while 


the  hind-feet  are  well  drawn  under  him  ;  on  backing  him,  he- 
backs  with  reluctance ;  when  forced  back,  he  drags  one  foot  after 
the   other,   evincing  considerable   pain   in    so   doing. 

When  moved  forward  he  walks  on  his  heels,  his  movements 
being  slow  and  difficult.  The  bowels  are  costive  and  fever  runs 
high. 

Treatment. — Give  the  horse  a  good  bedding  of  straw,  in  a  large 
well- ventilated  stall,  so  as  to  encourage  him  to  lie  down,  which, 
by  removing  the  weight  from  the  inflamed  parts,  will  relieve  his 
sufferings  very  much,  and  assist  in  hastening  the  cure.  As  soon 
as  his  bed  is  fixed,  give  him  twenty  drops  of  the  tincture  of 
aconite-root  in  a  half-pint  of  cold  water,  poured  into  his  mouth 
with  a  bottle  <  having  a  strong  neck,  and  repeat  this  dose  every 
four   hours  until  six   or  eight   doses   have  been  given.     Also  apply 


110 


DISEASES    OF   THE   HORSE. 


a  cloth  wet  in  ice  water  to  the  feet,  and  keep  wet  with  the 
same  for  several  hours  until  the  severe  pain  has  been  relieved- 
Wet  the  cloths  often,  and  continue  for  two  or  three  days,  or 
longer  if  necessary.  Give  plenty  of  cold  water  to  drink.  The 
above  treatment  should  be  adopted  as  soon  as  possible  after 
the  horse  has  been  attacked  with  founder.  Let  the  horse  have 
rest  until  he  has  fully  recovered.  Give  grass  or  mashes  for 
two  or  three  days,  and  then  give  a  good  and  fair  amount  of 
food. 


This  cut  represents  the  seat  of  the  ringbone.  Fig.  1,  the  joint 
between  the  pastern-bones  ;  Fig.  2,  the  joint  between  the  lower 
pastern  (or  small  pastern)  and  the  coffin-bone. 


Splints. 

This  cut  shows  the  location  of  the  different  splints  on  the  fore 
leg.      Fig.    1— A    splint    near    the    knee;     Fig.    2,   a   low   splint  j 


DISEASES    OF    THE    HOKSE. 


Ill 


Fig.   3,   a   small   bony  growth  on  the  front  of  the  leg,  also  called 
splint. 


Curb. 

This  is  one  of  the  many  diseases  of  the  hock-joint,  and  consists 
of  an  enlargement  or  gradual  bulging  out  at  the  posterior  part  of 
the  hock.     [See  above  cut.] 


Shoulder-joint  Lameness. 
This  difficulty,   being   located  in  the  joint,  is  much  more  serious 
than  the  shoulder  lameness  just  described,  and  it  is  more  difficult 
to  effect  a  perfect  cure  of  it. 

Symptoms.— The  animal  drags  the  leg,  with  the  toe  on  the  ground, 
nd  throws  the  leg  out  in  attempting  to  move  it.      It  is  with  great 
difficulty  that  he  can  raise  his  foot. 

Treatment.— If    the    treatment   is    not   put  off  too   long,    a   cure 


112  DISEASES    OF    THE    HOESE. 

may  reasonably  be  expected,  if  the  following  directions  are  fol- 
lowed. This  disease,  being  similar  to  a  spavin  in  the  hock- joint, 
should  have  similar  treatment.  If  the  part  is  very  hot,  reduce  the 
temperature  by  cold  cloths  ;  or  perhaps  hot  fomentations  may  work 
well  instead  of  the  cold ;  then  apply  a  mild  blister. 

To  Kill  Lice  on  Horses. 
Place  your  horse  in  a  warm  place  and  wash  him  thoroughly  with 
1  ounce  of  arsenic  dissolved  in  a  pail  of  water. 

Hen  and  human   lice   thrive   well  on   horses,  and  the  above  recipe 
will  always  exterminate   them. 

Condition  Potvders. 

G-entian  Root,  pulverized 2  oz. 

Anise  Seed,  pulverized ••• 1  oz. 

Ginger 1  J*. 

Fenugreek  Seed 1  oz- 

Seed  of  Sumach  Berries,  pulverized 1  oz. 

Antimony 1  oz- 

Mix  with  one  pound  of  brown  sugar.      Nothing  better  for  colds 
and  coughs,  and  to  improve  a  horse's  appetite. 

Liniment  of  Extraordinary  Merit  for  all  Purposes. 

Turpentine 1  Pint- 

Apple  Yinegar 1  pint. 

Eggs !  Pint- 

Chloroform 1  dram. 

Carbolic  Acid 1  dram. 

Bottle  tight  and  shake  well  before  using. 
Condition  Potvder. 

Ashes • 1  quart- 
Flax-seed  Meal 1  quart. 

g!alt 2  tablespoonsf  ul. 


DISEASES   OF   THE   HORSE.  113 

Mustard 1  tablespoonful. 

SalfcPetre 1  tablespoonful. 

Cayenne  Pepper l  teaspoonful. 

Dose — Two  tablespoonsful  once  a  day. 

Diruetic  Drops. 

These  drops  will  be  found  good  for  the  stoppage  of  water,  foul 
water,  or  inflammation  of  the  kidneys. 

Gum  Camphor,  pulverized  ±  oz 

Sweet  Spirits  of  Nitre  4  oz 

Treatment  for  Cuts  or  Wounds. 

If  the  wound  or  cut  is  very  bad,  trim  the  hair  off  closely  around 
the  edges,  and  wash  carefully  with  soap  and  warm  water. 

The  object  next  is  to  produce  a  granulating  process. 

In  aU  cases  of  wounds,  cuts  or  ulcers,  of  any  kind,  you  should 
bear  in  mind  the  importance  of  washing  the  matter,  or  syringing 
it  from  the  affected  part,  with  castile  soap  and  warm  water  daily,  and 
a  dependent  opening  must  be  made  to  allow  the  matter  to  escape  from 
the  wound. 

Matter,  in  every  case,  burrows  or  pockets,  and  the  principle  is  the 
same  in  every  case. 

Use  caustics  to  cut  out  all  fungus  or  diseased  growths,  and  using 
proportionately,  more  stimulating  medicine  for  indolent  ulcers  than 
for  those  in  a  fresh  state. 

The  following  ointment  is  unsurpassed  for  curing  cuts  and  fresh 
wounds  on  horses  : 

Beeswax x 

Palm0iI- ZZZZ'.'.Vib* 

^lA- 2  lbs. 

G-um  Turpentine ,  ., 

Calamine i      " 

H  llb- 


114  DISEASES   OE   THE    HORSE. 

Simmer  over  a  slow  fire  and  stir  well  together  until  thoroughly 
mixed.  Wash  the  wound  well  with  warm  water  and  castile  soap,  and 
apply  the  ointment  once  a  day. 

A  Simple  Sealing  Preparation. 

Water £  pint. 

Tincture  Myrrh 1  oz. 

Tincture  Aloes  2  oz. 

Mix,  and  apply  once  a  day. 

Ointment  for  Healing  Cuts,  Galls,  Etc. 

Carbolic  Acid  6  grains. 

Lard    1  oz. 

Oxide  of  Zinc,  pulverized  fine 4  drams. 

Melt  the  lard  and  stir  in  the  zinc. 
Add  the  carbolic  acid  and  mix  thoroughly. 

By  applying  this  ointment  once  or  twice  a  day  to  the  injured  part> 
it  will  cause  a  healthy  discharge  from  a  foul  ulcer. 

Liniment  for    Open    Wounds. 

White    Vitriol 2  oz. 

Sulphate  of  Copper 1  oz. 

Muriate  of  Soda  (Salt) 2  oz. 

Linseed  Oil 2  oz. 

Orleans  Molasses 8  oz. 

Boil  the  above  ingredients  in  a  pint  of  urine,  for  fifteen  minutes. 
When  nearly  cold,  add  1  oz.  oil  of  vitrol  and  4  oz.  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, and  bottle  for  use. 

To  quickly  set  the  wound  to  discharging,  apply  the  liniment 
to  the  wound  with  a  quill,  which  will  perform  a  cure  in  a  few 
days. 

Valuable    Wash  for  Fresh    Wounds. 

Copperas 1  teaspoonful. 

Fine   gunpowder 2  teaspoonsful. 

White  Vitriol 1  teaspoonful. 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HORSE. 


115 


Add  1  quart  of  boiling  water.     Let  it  stand  until  cool.     For  deep 
wounds  apply  with  a  syringe. 

Liniment  for  Foul  Ulcers. 

Nitric  Acid  x 

Sulphate  of  Copper    2  oz 

Water 8tol2oz. 

Cooling  Liniment  for  External  Inflammation. 

VineSar     2oz. 

Spirits  of  Wine  3  Qz 

Goulard  Extract 1  oz 

Water    ...Hpinte! 

Apply  with  a  bandage. 

For  Inflamed  Leg,  Galled  Back  or  Shoulders. 
Spirits  of  Wine  2  oz 

Yine£ar     4oz." 

Sal  Ammoniac i 

1  oz. 

Tincture  Arnica    2  drams. 

Water   t     .. 

-2  pint. 

Mix  and  bathe  often  and  thoroughly. 

Sticking  Plaster  for  Cuts  and  Wounds. 

Tallow 2oz. 

Burgundy  Pitch 4  oz 

Spread  on  linen  while  hot.  Cut  in  strips  of  proper  length  and 
width.  First,  draw  the  cut  together,  warm  the  strips  and  apply 
them.     Cut  the  hair  short  where  you  apply  the  strips. 

Wash  for  Reducing  Inflamed  Wounds. 

Crotus  Martes i 

Sulphate  of  Zinc    j 

Sugar  of  Lead i  Qz 

Water  .'.'.I  pint. 

Prevents  bad  smell  in  sores. 


116  DISEASES   OE   THE   HOESE. 

To  Prevent  Swelling,  Following  a  Bruise  or  Sprain 

Tincture  Arnica 2  oz. 

Cold  Water 1  qt. 

Anodyne  Stimulating  Liniment. 

Sulphuric  Ether    1*  oz. 

Spirits  of  Turpentine ioz. 

Spirits  of  Hartshorn    1|  oz. 

Sweet  Oil I  oz. 

Oil  of  Cloves  I  oz. 

Chloroform  ■" 1  oz. 

This  liniment  relieves  pain  and  is  unsurpassed  for  strains,  lameness 
and  soreness.  Put  the  liniment  in  a  strong  eight  ounce  bottle,  cork 
tight,  and  keep  in  the  dark.     When  used  rub  in  well. 

Magic  Liniment. 

Organum 2  oz. 

Hemlock  2  oz. 

Oil  of  Spike     2  oz. 

Sweet  Oil 4  oz. 

Wormwood 2  oz . 

Spirits  Ammonia     2  oz. 

Spirits  Turpentine 2  oz. 

Gum  Camphor    2  oz. 

Proof  Spirits  (90  per  cent.) 1  qt. 

Bottle  tight  after  mixing. 

It  is  beneficial  for  bruises,  sprains,  etc.,  and  a  fine  counter  irritant 
for  inflammation  and  pleurisy. 

For  Neio  Strains. 

Carbonate  Ammonia  2  oz. 

Apple  Vinegar  ■£  gilh 

Rub  in  well. 


DISEASES   OF    THE    HOESE.  117 

Sealing  Compound. 

Calamine,  pulverized 2  drams. 

Gum  Camphor  1  dram. 

Prepared  Chalk - 1  0z. 

Burnt  Alum \  oz. 

Mix. 

Sprinkle  on  the  affected  part,  and  in  a  few  hours  it  will  heal.  Good 
for  collar  or  saddle  galls,  fresh  wounds,  and  for  any  sore  or  lacerated 
mouths,  or  any  trouble  requiring  great  astringent  healing  proper- 
ties. 

This  wonderful  powder  is  well  known  by  having  been  extensively 
advertised  through  this  country. 

Caustics. 

Substances  used  to  burn  away  tissues  of  the  body  by  decomposition 
of  their  elements  are  termed  caustics,  and  are  valuable  in  destroying 
fungus  growth  and  renew  a  healthy  action. 

Nitrate  of  Silver  is  excellent  to  lower  granulation. 

Corrosive  sublimate  in  powder  acts  energetically. 

Sulphate  of  copper  is  not  so  strong  as  nitrate  of  silver,  but  good. 

Chloride  of  zinc  is  a  powerful  caustic.  It  may  be  used  in  sinuses  ; 
in  solution,  7  drams  in  a  pint  of  water. 

Mild  Caustics. 

A  wound  or  ulcer  will  not  heal  while  there  remains  any  foreign 
substance  in  the  shape  of  splinters,  pieces  of  bone,  hair,  &c. 

No  matter  what  treatment  you  subject  the  wound  to,  it  will  not 
heal  so  long  as  foreign  substances  remain  in  the  cut. 

Wash  with,  or  inject,  warm  water  and  castile  soap,  after  which 
regular   digestive    ointment   can   be   used.      But  if   fungus   growths 


118  DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE. 

cannot  be  removed  with  the  knife,  use  a  caustic — a  little  of  which  is 
to  be  put  on  the  part  or  in  the  sinews.  Carrying  this  treatment 
in  the  extreme  implies  using  a  hot  iron  (the  actual  cautery) . 

Balls  for  Farcy. 

No.  1— Calomel 20  grains. 

Common  Turpentine..  3  drams. 

Sulphate  of  Copper 1  dram. 

Syrup  and  liquorice  to  form  a  ball. 

No.  2— Iodide  of  Potassium 10  grains. 

Sulphate  of  Iron 2  drams. 

Gentian 2  drams. 

Ginger 1  dram. 

Treacle  to  form  a  ball. 

Another  Diabetes  Remedy. 

Alum \  drain. 

Catechu a  oz- 

Sugar  of  Lead 10  grains. 

With  conserve  of  roses  to  form  a  ball. 

Cough  Balls. 

No.  1— Digitalis *  dram. 

Nitre !a  drams. 

Tartar  Emetic i  dram. 

Tar  enough  to  form  a  ball.     One  every  night. 

No.  2— Gum  Ammoniac 3  drams. 

Opium I  clram. 

Powdered  Squills 1  dram. 

Syrup  to  form  ball. 

For  Bloody  Urine. 

Sulphate  of  Zinc 40  grains. 

Catechu 4  drams. 

Acetate  of  Lead 10  grains. 

Conserve  of  roses  to  form  a  ball.     Give  one  daily. 


DISEASES   OF   THE   HOESE.  119 

Condition  Powder. 

This  is  the  best  tonic  Condition  Powder  ever  used,  and  is  used  in 
the  Eastern  cities  at  a  high  price,  under  various  names,  such  a* 
Condition  Food,  &c. 

Salt if  ftg. 

Common  Brown  Sugar Q  fts. 

Carbonate  Soda   6  oz. 

Ginger  (ground)  £  ft. 

Gentian  (powdered)  §  ft. 

Cummin  Seed  (ground)    6  oz. 

Fenugreek  (ground)    ..6  oz. 

Grains  Pax'adise  (ground)   \  ft. 

Meal 100  fts. 

Dose — One  pint  with  the  food. 

Incurable  Diseases. 

There  are  some  diseases  or  afflictions  to  which  the  horse  is 
subject,  which,  when  thoroughly  established,  are  incurable  ;  among 
which  are  heaves,  cribbing,  thumps,  windsucking,  bog  and  bone 
spavins,  curbs,  ringbones  and  exosotosis  on  the  joints.  This  latter 
class  of  unsoundness  may,  however,  be  palliated  in  incipiency,  by 
blistering,  but  it  should  be  administered  by  a  skilled  veterinarian. 
If  not,  the  effect  of  the  treatment  may  be  worse  than  the  disease. 

Watering  Horses. 

The  water  from  ponds,  streams  or  rain-water  cisterns,  is  much 
preferable  to  that  from  cold  springs  or  wells,  as  the  temperature  of 
it  is  more  natural  and  more  conducive  to  health  than  cold  water, 
and  it  is  generally  softer,  a  desirable  quality  of  water  for  all  animals. 
If  the  horse  is  to  be  driven  rapidly,  he  should  be  watered  frequently 
with  tepid  water,  and  there  is  great  economy  in  removing  the  chill 
from  the  water  used  for  idle  animals  in  cold  weather. 


120  DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE. 

The  food  saved  by  observing  this  will  pay  many  times  the  cost 
of  tempering  the  water  drank.  It  is  very  injudicious  to  water 
horses  when  away  from  home,  with  cold  water,  when  they  have  been 
accustomed  to  warm  water  at  home,  as  it  is  liable  to  produce  lung 
fever,  chills  and  severe  colic. 

Bare  Feet  for  Farm  Horses. 

Horses  used  only  on  the  farm  and  earth  roads  are  better  off 
without  shoes  in  summer,  unless  the  land  is  very  rough  and  stony 
There  is  not  only  the  saving  of  the  cost  of  shoeing,  but  all  the 
destructive  effects  arising  from  shoeing  in  the  ordinary  way  will 
be  avoided.  By  working  the  horse  barefooted,  the  natural  organs  of 
support  are  used,  and  a  healthful  condition  of  the  feet  is  maintained. 

It  is  well,  however,  to  examine  the  bare  feet  twice  a  year,  and 
in  case  they  wear  or  grow  irregularly,  they  should  be  pared  to  the 
proper  shape. 

Horses  used]  for  the  road  in  winter  should  be  sharp  shod,  but 
these  shoes  should  be  removed  at  the  commencement  of  the  plowing 
season. 


A  VALUABLE  ESSAY 


ON 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


A  few  years  ago  the  Scottish  Society  for  the  Prevention  of 
Cruelty  to  Animals  offered  a  series  of  prizes  for  the  best  and  most 
practical  essays  on  horse-shoeing,  in  connection  with  comfort  and 
soundness  of  the  horse.  About  fifty  essays  were  sent  in,  and  were 
submitted  to  Prof.  Williams,  Principal  of  the  Edinburgh  Veterinary 
College;  Mr.  W.  Kobertson,  M.R.C.V.S.,  Kelso,  and  Mr.  B. 
Cartledge,  M.R.C.V.S.,  Sheffield,  Examiners  of  the  Royal  College 
of  Veterinary  Surgeons,  and  Mr.  J.  C.  Broad,  M.R.C.V.8., 
London,  by  whom,  after  a  very  patient  and  careful  exami- 
nation, the  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  George  Fleming  for 
the  following  essay  : 


122  HORSE-SHOEING. 

It  requires  but  little  observation  and  reflection,  one  would  think, 
in  order  to  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  the  art  of  horse-shoeing 
is  not  only  an  important  one,  so  far  as  civilization  and  the  ordinary 
every-day  business  of  life  is  concerned,  but  that  the  successful 
utilization  of  the  Horse,  together  with  its  welfare  and  comfort,  in  a 
great  measure  depend  upon  the  correctness  of  the  principles  on 
which  its  practice  is  based,  and  the  mode  in  which  these  principles 
are  carried  out  by  the  artisan. 

For  proof  of  this  we  have  but  to  glance  at  the  immense  traffic  in 
our  great  towns  and  cities  in  which  the  horse  figures  so  prominently, 
at  the  same  time  remembering  that,  without  a  defence  to  its  hoofs, 
this  invaluable  animal  would  be  almost,  if  not  quite,  valueless,  in 
consequence  of  the  hardness  of  our  artificial  roads,  and  the  great 
efforts  demanded  from  him  ;  or,  studying  the  anatomy  and  functions 
of  the  limbs  and  feet,  to  call  to  mind  how  these  are  wonderfully 
calculated  to  serve  most  essential  purposes  in  locomotion  and 
weight-sustaining,  and  how  necessary  it  is,  at  the  same  time,  that 
their  natural  adaptability  be  as  little  as  possible  thwarted  or 
annulled  by  the  interference  of  man  in  his  endeavor  to  protect 
or  aid  them. 

From  the  earliest  ages,  the  horse's  foot  and  its  envelop,  the  hoof, 
have  been  looked  upon  by  horsemen  as  the  principal  region  of  the 
animal's  body  to  which  care  and  attention  should  be  directed  ;  as, 
when  these  become  injured  or  diseased,  no  matter  how  perfect 
and  sound  the  other  parts  may  be,  the  quadruped's  services  are 
diminished  or  altogether  lost. 

Consequently,  the  preservation  of  these  in  an  efficient  and 
healthy  state  has  ever  been  the  aim  of  those  who  valued  the  Horse 
for  the  immense  advantages  his  services  were  capable  of  conferring 
on  mankind ;  and  in  later  years,  those  who  have  been  moved 
by   the   sacred   impulse   of  humanity   toward   the  lower   creatures, 


HORSE-SHOEING.  123 

have  not  forgotten  how  much  the  noble  animal  may  suffer  from 
unskillful  management  of  its  feet,  through  the  neglect  or  ignorance 
of  those  who  have  the  special  care  of  these  organs. 

At  a  very  early  period  in  the  domestication  of  the  Horse,  and 
particularly  in  western  regions,  it  must  have  been  soon  discovered 
that,  at  certain  seasons,  on  particular  soils,  and  especially  when 
called  upon  to  perform  any  great  amount  of  travelling  and  load- 
carrying,  the  horn  composing  the  hoof  underwent  an  amount  of 
wear  greater  than  nature  could  compensate  for,  and  that  the  living 
sensitive  structures  within,  becoming  exposed  and  irritated  by  contact 
with  the  ground,  gave  rise  to  pain,  lameness  and  inability  to  work. 

To  guard  against  this  serious  result,  the  ingenuity  of  man  must 
have  been  severely  tested  in  devising  a  suitable  and  durable  pro- 
tection for  the  ground-surface  of  the  hoof,  and  among  the  many 
contrivances  proposed,  the  most  notable,  and  by  far  the  most 
valuable,  has  been  the  device  of  nailing  a  plate  of  metal  to  the 
outer  margin  or  wall  of  the  hoof. 

The  antiquity  of  this  invention  is  very  great,  and  it  is  probable 
that  for  many  centuries  the  shoe  was  considered  as  nothing  more 
than  a  simple  defender  of  the  hoof  from  the  damaging  effects  of 
attrition,  and  occasionally  as  an  aid  in  securing  the  animal's  foothold 
during  progression  on  slippery  ground. 

As  time  advanced,  however,  and  the  services  of  the  horse  became 
increased  a  hundredfold  by  the  application  of  this  ingenious  and 
simple  expedient,  the  sciences  of  anatomy  and  physiology  began  to 
•embrace  the  Horse  in  their  domain,  and,  crude  as  they  were  at  first, 
it  is  to  be  feared  that,  when  they  were  extended  to  the  investigation 
of  the  structure  and  functions  of  the  foot,  the  useful  and  com- 
paratively harmless  protection  of  early  days  was  made  subservient 
to  the  most  varied  and  fantastic  theories ;  and  it  must  be  admitted 
that  for  many  years  horse-shoeing,  so  far  from  proving  a  boon  to 
horse-owners   and   a   preserver   of    horses'   feet,   has   been  far  from 


124  HORSE-SHOEING-. 

yielding  the  benefits  its  scientific  and  reasonable  application  should 
afford.  Indeed,  it  would  be  no  exaggeration  to  assert  that  the 
predominating  principles  and  practice  of  this  art  has  been  eminently 
destructive  to  horses  and  a  source  of  great  loss  to  their  owners. 

These  principles  were  founded  on  a  misconception  of  the  functions 
of  the  foot  and  of  the  part  assumed  by  the  hoof  in  locomotion,  and 
their  speedy  popularization  was  due  to  the  fact  that  they  were 
congenial  to  the  whims  of  fashion  and  were  deemed  essential  to  the 
improvement  of  nature,  commending  themselves  to  unreasoning  and 
unreasonable  minds  like  the  fashions  of  cropping  horses'  and  dogs' 
ears,  cutting,  nicking  and  docking  tails,  and  other  cruel  fancies  of 
depraved  tastes. 

The  amount  of  injury  inflicted  by  an  unscientific  method  of 
shoeing  may  be  very  much  greater  than  a  cursory  inquiry  would 
lead  one  to  believe.  To  those  experienced  among  horses,  and  who 
have  directed  their  attention  closely  to  the  subject,  the  proportion 
of  animals  whose  utility  is  directly  or  indirectly  impaired  by  im- 
proper treatment  of  their  feet  must  appear  excessive,  when  compared 
with  the  other  causes  of  inefficiency.  Indeed,  maladies  of  the  feet 
and  limbs,  due,  more  or  less,  to  faulty  shoeing,  form  a  very  large 
percentage  of  the  cases  usually  met  with  in  veterinary  practice. 

An  act,  therefore,  which  has  so  much  influence  for  good  or  evil, 
so  far  as  the  usefulness  and  comfort  of  the  horse  are  concerned, 
surely  deserves  the  serious  study  of  all  those  who  are  interested  in 
that  animal.  A  good  system,  founded  on  the  teachings  of  anatomy 
and  physiology,  and  perfected  by  daily  experience,  must  prove  of 
immense  benefit  to  horse  and  owner  ;  while  a  bad  system,  conducted 
in  ignorance  or  carelessness,  cannot  but  bring  about  pain  and  speedy 
uselessness  to  the  animal  and  loss  to  the  proprietor. 


HOESE-SHOEING. 


125 


ANATOMY  OF  THE  HORSE'S  FOOT. 

One  of  the  primary  considerations  for  those  who  have  the 
shoeing  and  management  of  the  horse's  foot,  should  be  the 
acquisition  of  a  knowledge  of  its  structure  and  functions  in 
health  ;    not  a  profound  knowledge,  certainly,  such  as   the   scientific 


Fig.  1.— Section  of  the  Horse's  Foot— a  a,  Skin  of  leg ;  b  b  b,  extensor 
tendon  of  foot ;  c,  its  insertion  into  the  foot-bone  ;  d  d,  capsular  ligaments 
of  joints;  d' d',  flexor  tendon  of  foot  inserted  into  sole  of  foot-bone  (s) ; 
a  e,  flexor  tendon  of  pastern  inserted  at  /  into  the  small  pastern  bone,  i; 
g,  shank  or  large  metacarpal  bone ;  h,  large  pastem  bone  j  fe,  navicular 
bone ;  I,  foot  or  pedal  bone ;  m,  ligaments  of  navicular  bone  connected  with 
deep  flexor  tendon ;  n,  sensitive  laminae,  dovetailing  with  horny  laminae 
n' ;  o,  plantar  cushion;  p,  coronary  cushion;  q,  horny  frog;  r,  wall  o' 
hoof  ;  t,  sensitive  membrane  of  frog  and  sole  ;  u,  the  face  of  the  navicular 
bone  over  which  the  flexor  tendon  plays— the  seat  of  navicular  disease. 

veterinarian  requires,  but  sufficient  to  enable  them  to  understand 
the  situation,  relation,  texture,  and  uses  of  the  parts  of  the  organ 
with  which  they  have  more  particularly  to  deal.  If  the  artisan  does 
not  possess  this  knowledge,  is  it  possible  that  he  can  practice  his 
handicraft  to  advantage,  or  minister  effectually  to  the  varied  require- 


126  HORSE-SIIOEING. 

rnents  of  this  organ  ?  It  must  be  admitted  that  he  cannot  do  so  ; 
and  it  is  from  neglect  of  this  fundamental  consideration  that  so 
much  improper  and  vicious  shoeing  prevails,  and  that  so  many  horses 
are  crippled  and  prematurely  worn  out.  By  the  majority  of  farriers 
the  foot  of  the  horse  is  looked  upon  as  little,  if  anything,  more  than 
an  insensible  block  of  horn  which  they  may  carve  and  mutilate  with 
impunity  and  as  suit?  their  fancy,  and  for  which  nothing  more 
is  necessary  than  the  attachment,  by  an  unreasonable  number  of 
nails,  of  a  clumsy  mass  of  iron  that  may  not  only  be  unsuitable  for  its 
requirements,  but  positively  injurious  to  it  and  the  other  parts  of 
the  limb.  The  art  of  farriery  in  this  country  has  never  received  a 
scientific  development,  but  has  ever  been  a  mere  affair  of  routine  and 
tradition.  Such  should  not  be  the  case  ;  and  allusion  is  only  made 
to  this  matter  here  in  order  to  urge  most  strenuously  the  necessity 
for  farriers  being  properly  instructed  in  the  elements  of  their  art,  and 
made  to  comprehend  as  much  as  may  be  required  of  the  construction 
and  functions  of  the  very  important  organ  upon  which  they  are 
destined  to  exercise  their  skill. 

The  horse's  foot  may  be  said,  for  practical  purposes,  to  be 
intended  not  only  as  an  organ  of  support  and  defence  (or  offence), 
but  also  as  that  part  of  the  limb  in  which  the  efforts  created 
elsewhere  are  concentrated,  and  as  the  instrument  through  which 
propulsion  and  progression  may  be  mainly  effected.  It  is  also  largely 
endowed,  in  a  natural  state,  with  the  sense  of  touch,  which  enables 
the  animal  to  travel  with  safety  and  confidence  on  rough  as  well  as 
even,  and  on  soft  as  well  as  hard  ground. 

When  we  come  to  examine  it  in  a  methodical  and  careful 
manner,  we  find  that  it  has  for  its  basis  the  last  three  bones  of  the 
limb — the  small  pastern,  navicular,  and  coffin  or  pedal  bone.  The 
latter  is  more  particularly  the  foundation  of  the  foot,  and  is  the 
nucleus  on  which  the  hoof  is   moulded,  and   which  in   shape  it  much 


HORSE-SHOEING.  127 

resembles.  At  its  highest  point  in  front,  the  larger  extensor  tendon 
of  the  foot  is  inserted,  and  in  the  middle  of  its  lower  face  or  sole 
is  implanted  the  powerful  tendon  which  bends  or  flexes  the  foot  ; 
these  tendons  are  the  chief  agents  in  progression.  An  elastic 
apparatus  surrounds  them  and  a  portion  of  the  pedal  bone,  and 
the  whole  is  enveloped  by  a  membrane  that  attaches  the  hoof  in 
the  closest  possible  manner  to  its  outer  surface.  Into  each  of  the 
wings  or  sides  of  the  bone  (for  it  is  crescent-shaped,  the  horns 
extending  backward  on  eacli  side)  is  fixed  a  large  plate  of  cartilage 
that  rises  above  the  hoof,  where  it  may  readily  be  felt,  and  which 
has  important  relations  with  its  fellow  on  the  opposite  side,  as 
well  as  with  other  elastic  bodies  admirably  disposed  to  sustain 
weight,  prevent  jar,  and  insure  that  lightness  and  springiness  which 
form  so  striking  a  feature  in  the  horse's  movements.  The  navicular 
bone  is  a  narrow  piece,  placed  transversely  between  the  wings  of 
the  coffin  bone,  and  is  intended  to  throw  the  flexing  tendon  farther 
from  the  centre  of  motion,  and  thus  increase  its  power  ;  the  tendon 
plays  over  its  posterior  or  lower  face,  and  this  disposition,  together 
with  the  relations  established  between  it  and  the  pedal  bone  through 
their  connecting  ligaments,  and  the  bend  the  tendon  makes 
in  passing  over  it,  cause  this  part  of  the  foot  to  be  one  par- 
ticularly liable  to  disease,  and  one  especially  deserving  of  atten- 
tive study. 

The  elastic  apparatus  of  the  foot  consists  of  (1)  the  lateral 
cartilages  just  mentioned  ;  (2),  a  prominent  ring  or  cornice  sur- 
rounding the  upper  border  of  the  pedal  bone  usually  known  as  the 
"coronary-substance,"  but  which  might  be  more  aptly  designated 
the  "coronary  cushion  ;"  this  fits  into  a  corresponding  concavity  in 
the  inner  and  upper  margin  of  wall  of  the  hoof,  and,  besides 
acting  as  an  elastic  body  or  cushion,  pei'forms  the  important  func- 
tion of  secreting  this  wall  or  crust  of  the  horny  envelop ;  (3),  a 
triangular  body — the  plantar  cushion,  known  to  farriers  as  the 
"  fatty  "   or  "  sensitive  frog  "    (to  distinguish  it  from  the  horny  frog. 


-j^8  H0KSE-S1I0EING-. 

which  immediately  covers  it),  admirably  disposed  between  the 
wings  of  the  coffin  bone,  with  a  view  to  protect  and  sustain  the 
flexor  tendon  during  its  efforts,  as  well  as  to  diminish  concussion 
by  its  own  resiliency  and  by  the  connection  it  has  with  the  elastic 
cartilages.  From  its  position  at  the  back  of  the  foot,  and  the 
importance  of  the  part  it  covers,  this  portion  of  the  elastic 
apparatus  derives  much  interest,  and  must  not  be  overlooked  by 
the  farrier. 


Pig.  2.— Horse's  Foot  divested  of  its  Hoof— a  a,  Perioplic  ring;  b  b, 
'perioplic  or  coronary  fissure  ;  c  c  c,  coronary  cushion  covered  with  villi ; 
d  d,  white  zone ;  ///,  vascular  laminae  terminating  in  villi,  g. 

Besides  the  elastic  apparatus  of  the  foot  more  immediately 
in  connection  with  the  pedal  and  navicular  bones,  we  have  the 
wonderful  arrangement  of  living  membrane  enveloping  these  parts, 
whose  office  appears  to  be  the  secretion  and  attachment  of  the  horny 
box  we  designate  the  "  hoof  ;"  to  it  large  quantities  of  blood  are 
conveyed  by  the  ultimate  ramifications  of  the  arteries  proceeding  to 
the  foot,  and  from  it,  by  a  complex  distribution  of  veins  arising  from 
these  ultimate  arterial  divisions,  to  the  great  venous  trunks  that 
pass  up  the  limb.  The  terminal  twigs  of  the  senory  nerves  of 
the  foot  are  also  freely  and  wisely  distributed  in  its  substance  in 


HOESE-SHOEING.  129 

the  form  of  exceedingly  fine  filaments,  which  endow  the  organ  with 
a  sufficient  sense  of  touch  to  enable  it  to  perform  its  varied  functions 
with  safety  and  precision.  A  peculiar  and  striking  disposition  of 
this  membrane  can  be  observed  around  the  front  and  sides  of  the 
pedal  bone,  when  the  hoof  has  been  removed  by  steeping  the  foot 
for  some  time  in  water.  This  disposition  consists  in  the  elevation 
of  the  membrane  into  parallel  vertical  leaves,  which  extend  from  the 
coronary  cushion  to  the  lower  border  of  the  bone,  and  to  a  certain 
distance  within  its  wings.  These  leaves,  which  resemble  in  appear- 
ance those  on  the  underside  of  a  mushroom,  are  known  as  the 
"vascular"  or  "sensitive  laminne,"  and  number  between  six  and 
seven  hundred.  Their  chief  use  seems  to  be  to  afford  a  wide  and 
close  attachment  for  the  wall  of  the  hoof,  within  which,  through 
their  agency,  the  penal  bone  is,  as  it  were,  suspended ;  so  that  the 
relations  between  bone  and  hoof  are  not  so  rigid  as  if  they  were 
directly  united  to  each  other.  These  lanrinoe  are  exceedingly  vascular 
and  sensitive,  and  when  they  become  inflamed  through  bad  shoeing, 
excessive  travelling,  or  other  cause,  the  horse  suffers  most  excruciating 
pain,  and  in  a  large  majority  of  cases  the  chronic  inflammation  that 
remains  produces  serious  alterations  in  the  structure  and  formation 
of  the  hoof,  leading  to  more  or  less  lameness  and  diminished 
utility. 

Besides  entering  into  the  formation  of  these  leaves,  this  membrane 
covers  the  other  parts  of  the  foot  within  the  hoof,  as  a  sock  does 
the  human  foot,  and  endows  it  with  a  high  degree  of  vitality  and 
secretory  power.  It  overspreads  the  coronary  and  plantar  cushions* 
as  well  as  the  sole  of  the  pedal  bone,  and  its  surface  in  these  parts 
is  thickly  studded  with  myriads  of  tufts  or  "villi,"  which  give  it 
the  appearance  of  the  finest  Genoa  velvet.  These  minute  processes 
vary  in  length  from  one -eighth  to  more  than  one-fourth  of  an  inch, 
and  are  best  observed  when  a  foot,  from  which  the  hoof  has  just  been 
removed  by  maceration,  is  suspended  in  clear  water.  Examined  with 
the  microscope,  they  are  found  to  be  merely  prolongations  from  the 
I 


130 


HOUSE- SHOEING. 


face  of  the  membrane,  each  composed  of  one  or  two  minute  arteries,. 
which  branch  off  into  exceedingly  fine  net-work,  and  end  in  hair-like 
veins.  A  nervous  filament  has  also  been  traced  into  the  interior,  so 
that  these  tufts  are  not  only  vascular,  but  also  sensitive.  They  play 
an  essential  part  in  the  formation  of  the  hoof,  and   their  relations 


Fig.  3. — Sensitive  Sole  of  Horse's  Foot.— a,  Cartilaginous  biubs  of  the  heels, 
covered  by  sensitive  membrane  ;  b,  inflexion  of  the  coronary  cushion;  c, 
middle  cleft  or  lacuna  :  d  d,  plantar  laminae ;  e,  limit  between  the  coronary 
cushion  and  plantar  lamina? ;  //,  branches  of  the  plantar  cushion ;  g  g  g  g, 
termination  of  the  laminae  in  villi ;  li  h,  sensitive  membrane  of  sole  covered 
with  innumerable  tine  tufts  or  villi ;  i,  prolongation  of  the  coronary  cushion 
into  the  lateral  lacuna. 

to  that  covering  must  not  be  neglected  by  the  farrier  in  his  treat- 
ment of  it. 


This  is  all  that  need  be  said  at  present  with  regard  to  the 
anatomy  of  the  living  parts  of  the  horse's  foot  ;  we  have  referred 
to  it  merely  to  show  that  this  organ  is  not  a  crude  block  of  insensi- 
tire  matter,  but  a  most  wonderfully-constructed  apparatus,  possessed 
of  qualities  which  are  not  to  be  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  body. 
In  constructing  the  foot  of  this  noble  creature,  Nature  sought  to  do 
more  than   merely   protect   the  extremely   delicate    and   exquisitely 


HORSE-SHOEING.  joi 


sensitive  structure,  contained  within  the  hoof  from  injurious  contact 
with  the  ground.    This  redoubtable  difficulty  is  comparatively  insigni- 
ficant in  comparison  with  the  other  portions  of  the  task  she  set  her- 
self.    It  was  necessary  that  the  lower  extremity  of  the  limb  of  such  a 
glorious  creation  as  the  horse,  should  be  an  organ  endowed  with  the 
acutest  sense  of  touch  for  the  instantaneous  perception  of  the  con- 
sistence and  inequalities  of  the  ground  over    which  it  moved-  and 
while    it  possessed   this   quality  in  a   high   degree,  it  was  also  incnV 
pensible  that  it  should   be  gifted  with  the  properties  of  resistance 
pliability  and  lightness  to  the  extent  necessary  for  the  support  and 
progression  of  the  body,  in  addition  to  the  rigidity  essential  to  im- 
pulsion, the  elasticity  and  suppleness  needful  to  avert  reactions  or  iar 
and  the  durability  and  rapidity  of  renovation  demanded  by  incessant 
wear.    Here  we  have  a  combination  of  requirements  whose  simultane- 
ous existence  in  one  organ  might  almost  be  deemed  incompatible    so 
opposite  do  they  appear;  insensibility  with  a  delicate  sense  of  touch  ■ 
resistance    with    lightness,  rigidity  with    elasticity,    suppleness  with 
cmrai-ihty. 


THE    HOOF. 


xhe  hoot  P^ys  no  small  share  in  rendering  the  horse  such  a 
complete  animal  as  it  is ;  and,  as  this  is  the  portion  of  the  foot  which 
comes  more  immediately  under  the  care  and  manipulative  skill  of  the 
farrier,  xts  study  should  be  a  little  more  detailed  and  minute,  perhaps 
than  that  of  the  internal  structures.  For  convenience  and  simplicity 
in  description,  it  has  been  divided  into  «  wall  "  or  -  crust  "  -  sole  " 
"frog"  and  "coronary  frog-band,"  or  «  periopie."  It  L  essential 
that  the  shoer  should  understand  the  structure,  nature,  and  uses  of 
these  parts. 

The  Wall  of  the  hoof  is  that  oblique  portion  which  covers  the 
front  and  sides  of  the  foot   from  the  coronet  to  the  gronnd,  and  i. 


132 


HOUSE-SHOEING. 


suddenly  inflected  or  bent  inward  at  the  heels,  toward  the  middle 
of  the  sole,  to  form  the  "bars,"  which  are  merely  prolongations  of 
its  extremities;  it  constitutes  the  circumference  or  margin  of  the 
hoof,  is  the  part  of  the  horny  box  that  is  intended  more  especially  to 
come  into  contact  with  the  ground,  and  is  that  on  which  the  iron  de- 
fense rests,  and  through  which  the  farrier  drives  the  nails  that  attach 
it.  The  inner  face  of  its  upper  edge  is  hollowed  out  into  a  somewhat 
wide  concavity,  which  receives,  or  rather  in  which  rests,  the  coronary 
cushion ;  this  concavity  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  being  pierced  every- 


Fig.  4.— Profile  of  a  Five-year-old  Front  Hoof  that  had  never  been 
Shod  ;  external  face.— Angle  of  wall  at  toe  51deg ;  a  a,  frog  baud  or 
periople  ;  b,  wall ;  c,  toe,  between  wbich  and  cl  is  the  "  outside "  or 
"inside"  toe  or  "  mammilla,"  and  between  c  and  /  the  "outside"  or 
"inside"  heel. 


where  by  countless  minute  openings  which  penetrate  the  substance  of 
the  wall  to  some  depth  ;  each  of  these  perforations  receives  one  of  the 
"  villi,"  or  minute  tufts  of  blood-vessels  already  mentioned  as  pro- 
longed from  the  face  of  the  membrane  covering  the  interior  of  the 
foot.  Below  this  concavity,  which  receives  a  large  share  of  the  horse's 
weight,  the  wall  is  of  about  equal  thickness  from  top  to  bottom  5  on 
the  whole  of  its  inner  surface  are  ranged  thin,  narrow,  vertical  horny 
plates,  in  number  corresponding  to  the  vascular  laminae,  between 
which  they  are  so  intimately  received  or  dovetailed — a  horny  leaf 
between  every  two  vascular  ones — that  in  the  living  or  fresh  state 


HOESE-SHOEIXG.  133 

it  is  almost  impossible  to  disunite  without  tearing  them.  The  inner 
face  of  the  lower  margin  is  united  in  a  solid  body  to  the  horny  sole 
through  the  medium  o;  a  narrow  band  of  soft,  light-colored  horn, 
situated  between  the  two,  and  which  we  may  call  the  "  white  line," 
or  "  zone." 

The  outer  surface  of  the  wall  is  generally  smooth  and  shining  in 
the  natural  healthy  state. 

The  dimensions  of  the  wall  vary  in  different  situations  ;  in  front 
it  is  deepest  and  thickest,  but  towards  the  quarters  and  heels  it 
diminishes  in  height  and  becomes  thinner  ;  at  its  angles  of  inflection 
— the  points  of  the  heels — it  is  strong.  Its  structure  is  fibrous  ;  the 
fibres  pass  directly  parallel  to  each  other  from  the  coronet  to  the 
ground,  each  fibre  being  moulded  on,  as  it  is  secreted  by,  one  of  the 
minute  tufts  of  blood-vessels  lodged  in  the  cavity  of  the  coronet. 
Microscopically,  the  wall  is  composed  of  minute  cells,  closely  com- 
pressed, and  arranged  vertically  around  each  fibre,  and  horizontally 
between  the  fibres.  A  point  of  much  practical  interest  is  to  be 
found  in  the  fact  that  the  fibres  on  the  surface  or  outside  of  the  wall, 
are  very  dense,  close,  and  hard — so  dense,  indeed,  that  the  wall  of  an 
unmutilated  hoof  looks  like  whalebone;  but  toward  the  inner  surface 
they  become  softer,  move  spongy,  and  easily  cut. 

The  Horny  Sole  is  contained  within  the  lower  margin  of  the  wall, 
and  is  a  concave  plate  covering  the  lower  face  of  the  pedal  bone.  In 
structure  it  is  fibrous  like  the  wall,  the  fibres  passing  in  the  same 
direction,  and  formed  in  the  same  manner  by  the  tufts  of  vessels 
projected  from  the  membrane  which  immediately  covers  the  bone. 
These  tufts  penetrate  the  horn  fibres  to  some  depth,  and,  as  in  the 
wall,  maintain  them  in  a  moist,  supple  condition,  such  as  best  fits 
them  for  their  office. 

The  sole  is  thickest  around  its  outer  border,  where  it  joins  the  wall ; 
thinnest  in  the  centre,  where  it  is  most  concave.     A  notable  pecu- 


13i  K0E8E-SH0EING. 

liarity  in  this  part  of  the  hoof,  and  one  which  distinguishes  it  from 
the  wall,  is  its  tendency  to  bre.ik  off  in  flakes  on  the  ground  face  when 
the  fibers  have  attained  a  certain  length  ;  the  wall,  on  the  contrary, 
continues  to  grow  in  length  to  an  indefinite  extent,  and,  unless  kept 
within  reasonable  dimensions  by  continual  wear  or  the  instruments  of 


Fig.  5.— Plantar  Surface  of  left  Pose  Hoof  of  a  Five-tear-old  Horse 
that  had  never  been  Shol  —  j  a,  glomes  or  heels  of  the  frog:  b,  median 
lacuna  or  "  cleft"  of  the  frog ;  c  c,  branches  of  the  frog;  d  d,  heels,  "  angles 
of  inflexion,"  or  "buttresses"  of  the  wall  of  the  hoof;  e  e,  lateral  lacuna? 
or  spaces  between  the  frog  and  liars  ;  //,  inflexions  of  the  wall  or  "  bars  ;  " 
</,  body  of  the  frog ;  h,  outside  quarter  of  the  boof ;  i,  inside  quarter  of  the 
hoof;  j,  point  of  the  frog  ;  fe,  sole ;  I  1,  commissure,  "  white  line,"  or  line  of 
junction  between  sole  and  wall ;   in,  n,  mammilla  ;  o,  toe. 

the  farrier,  would  in  time  acquire  an  extraordinary  distortion.  The 
horn  of  the  sole,  for  this  reason,  is  less  dense  and  resisting  than  that 
of  the  wall,  and  is  designed  more  to  support  weight  than  to  sustain 
wear. 

The  "Homy  Frog"  is  an  exact  reduplication  of  that  within  the 
hoof,  described  as  the  sensitive  or  fatty  frog.  It  is  triangular,  or 
rather  pyramidal  in  shape,  and  is  situated  at  the  back  part  of  the  hoof 
within  the  bars;  with  its  point  or  apex  extending  forward  to  the 
centre  of  the  sole,  and  its  base  or  thickest  portion  filling  up  the  wide 
space  left  between  the  inflexions  of  the  wall.     In  the  middle  of  the 


HORSE-SIIOEIXG.  135 

posterior  part  is  a  cleft,  which  in  the  healthy  state  should  not  be  deep, 
but  rather  shallow  and  sound  on  its  surface. 

In  structure,  this  body  is  also  fibrous,  the  fibers  passing  in  the 
same  direction  as  those  of  the  other  portions  of  the  hoof;  but, 
instead  of  being  quite  rectilinear  like  them,  they  are  waw  an  [ 
fiexuous  in  their  course,  and  present  some  microscopical  pecularities 
which,  though  interesting  to  the  comparative  anatomist,  need  not 
be  alluded  to  here.  The  fibers  are  finer  than  those  of  the  sole  and 
wall,  and  are  composed  of  cells  arranged  in  the  same  manner  as 
elsewhere  in  the  hoof;  they  are  formed  by  the  villi  which 
thickly  stud  the  face  of  the  membrane  covering  the  sensitive 
frog. 

The  substance  of  the  horny  frog  is  eminently  elastic,  and  cor- 
responds in  the  closest  manner  to  the  dense/ elastic,  epidermic 
pads  on  the  soles  of  the  feet  of  such  animals  as  the  camel,  elephant, 
lion,  bear,  dog,  cat,  etc.,  and  which  are  evidently  designed  for  con- 
tact with  the  ground,  the  support  and  protection  of  °the  tendona 
that  flex  the  foot,  to  facilitate  the  springy  movements  of  these 
creatures,  and  for  the  prevention  of  jar  and  injury  to  the  limbs. 

In  the  horse's  foot,  the  presence  of  this  thick,  compressible, 
and  supple  mass  of  horn  at  the  back  of  the  hoof,  its  being  in  a 
healthy,  unmutilated  condition,  and  permitted  to  reach  the  ground 
whilfl  the  animal  is  standing  or  moving,  are  absolutely  essential  to 
the  well-being  of  that  organ,  more  especially  should  speed,  in 
addition  to  weight-carrying,  be  exacted. 

The  frog,  like  the  sole,  exfoliates  or  becomes  reduced  in  thick- 
ness at  a  certain  stage  of  its  growth  ;  the  flakes  are  more  cohesive 
than  those  of  the  sole. 

It  must  be  remarked,  however,  that  this  exfoliation  of  the  sole 
and  frog  only  takes  place  when  the  more  recently-formed  horn 
beneath    has   acquired   sufficient   hardness    and    density    to    sustain 


136  HOBSE-SIIOEING. 

contact  -with  the  ground,  and   exposure  to  the  effects  of  heat,   dry- 
ness, and  moisture. 

The  "  Coronary  Frog-Band"  or  "  Periople"  is  a  continuation 
of  the  more  superficial  layer  of  the  skin  around  the  coronet  and 
heels,  in  the  form  of  a  thin,  light-colored  band  that  descends  to  a 
variable  depth  on  the  outer  surface  of  the  wall,  and  at  the  back 
part  of  the  hoof  becomes  consolidated  with  the  frog,  with  which  it 
is  identical  in  structure  and  texture.  It  can  be  readily  perceived 
in  the  hoof  that  has  not  been  mutilated  by  the  farrier's  rasp, 
extending  from  the  coronet,  where  the  hair  ceases,  to  some  distance 
down  the  hoof  ;  it  is  thickest  at  the  commencement  of  the  wall, 
and  gradually  thins  away  into  the  finest  imaginable  film  as  it 
approaches  the  lower  circumference  of  this  part.  When  wet  it 
swells  and  softens,  and  on  being  dried  shrinks,  sometimes  cracks  in 
its  more  dependent  parts,  or  becomes  scaly. 

The  fibres  composing  it  are  very  fine  and  wavy,  as  in  the  frog  ; 
they  likewise  spring  from  villi  which  project  from  the  true  skin 
immediately  above  the  "  coronary  cushion." 

The  use  of  this  band  would  appear  to  be  twofold  :  it  connects 
the  skin  with  the  hoof,  and  thus  makes  the  union  of  these  two 
dissimilar  textures  more  complete,  its  intermediate  degree  of  density 
and  its  great  elasticity  admirably  fitting  it  for  this  office ;  and  it 
acts  as  a  covering  or  protection  to  the  wall  at  its  upper  part,  where 
this  is  only  in  process  of  formation,  and  has  not  sufficient  resistance 
to  withstand  the  effects  of  exposure  to  the  weather.  The  greatest 
thickness  and  density  of  the  band  correspond  to  the  portion  of  the 
wall  rn  which  the  villi  or  vascular  tufts  are  lodged,  and  here  the 
horn  is  soft,  delicate,  aud  readily  acted  upon  in  an  injurious  manner 
by  external  influences. 

Thus  far,  then,  we  have  rapidly  glanced  at  the  anatomy  and  uses 
of  the  various  parts  entering  into  the  composition  of  the  horse's 
hoof,   and  its  horny  box — the  hoof.      It  may  be  necessary,  before 


HOBSE-SHOEING.  137 

we  pass  to  the  consideration  of  the  latter,  as  a  whole,  to  allude  to  the 
structure  and  uses  of  that  narrow  strip  of  horn,  whose  presence 
every  farrier  or  veterinary  surgeon  is  cognizant  of,  but  whose  character 
and  functions  have  been  strangely  left  out  of  consideration  by  all 
anatomists  hitherto.  I  refer  to  the  "white  line"  or  "zone,"  the 
slender  intermediate  band  that  runs  around  the  margin  of  the  sole, 
and  connects  that  plate  of  horn  so  closely  to  the  wall  as  to  make 
their  union  particularly  solid  and  complete.  When  preparing  the- 
border  of  the  hoof  for  the  reception  of  the  shoe,  this  part  is  easily 
distinguished  by  its  lighter  color  (in  a  dark  hoof),  and  by  its  being. 
softer  and  more  elastic  than  either  the  sole  or  wall,  between  which  it 
is  situated.  It  would  appear  to  be  secreted  by  the  villi  which  ter- 
minate the  lower  end  of  the  vascular  laminae,  and  the  horny  leaves  of 
the  wall  are  also  received  into  its  substance — a  circumstance  that 
renders  the  junction  of  the  two  more  thorough.  I  think  there  can 
be  no  doubt  that  the  principal  use  of  this  elastic  rim  of  horn,  placed 
in  such  a  situation,  is  to  obviate  the  danger  of  fracture  to  which  the 
inferior  part  of  the  hoof — particularly  the  sole — would  be  liable,  if 
the  junction  between  the  hard  and  comparatively  inelastic  sole  and. 
wall  was  directly  affected  without  the  interposition  of  such  a  body. 

It  may  be  noted,  that  it  is  through  this  soft  border  of  horn  that 
gravel  and  foreign  matters  usually  find  their  way  to  the  sensitive 
parts  of  the  foot,  and  there  excite  such  an  amount  of  irritation  as  to 
lead  to  the  formation  of  matter,  and  cause  much  pain  and  lameness — 
an  accident  which  the  older  farriers  termed  ''graveling." 

In  viewing  the  horse's  hoof  as  a  whole,  and  in  the  unshod  state, 
we  find  that  it  presents  several  salient  characteristics,  the  considera- 
tion of  which  ought  to  dominate  or  serve  as  a  guide  in  framing  rules- 
for  the  observance  of  farriers  in  the  practice  of  their  art.     The  first 


138 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


of    these   is    the    direction    in   which    the    wall    grows   in    a   healthy 
condition. 

Viewed  as  it  stands  on  a  level  surface,  the  hoof  may  be  said  to  be 
somewhat  conical  in  shape,  its  upper  part  being  a  little  less  than  its 
base ;  and  although,  geometrically,  its  shape  may  be  described  as  the 
frustum  of  a  cone,  the  base  and  summit  of  which  have  been  cut  by 
two  oblique  planes — the  inferior  converging  abruptly  behind  toward 
the  superior — yet  the  circumference  of  the  hoof  does  not  offer  that 
regularity  which  this  description  might  imply  ;  on  the  contrary,  in 
a  well-formed  foot,  we  find  that  the  outline  of  its  inferior,  or  ground 
border,  is  notably  more  salient  on  the  outer  than  the  inner  side, 
giving  it  that  appearance  which  has  been  designated  the  "  spread." 


pa 


A  cone  being  intersected  by  two  planes  oblique  to  its  axis,  and  not 
allel  to  each  other,  gives  a  good  idea,  nevertheless,  of  the  obliquity 


/       / 


Fie.  G. 


which  formed  so  marked  a  feature  in  the  hoof.  The  degree  of 
obliquity  of  the  front  part,  or  toe,  and  of  the  upper  surface,  varies 
with  the  amount  of  growth  ;  but  where  this  has  been  counterbalanced 
by  a  proper  degree  of  wear,  it  will  be  remarked  that  this  obliquity 
corresponds  to  the  inclination  of  the  pastern-bones  immediately  above 
the  hoof,  when  the  horse  is  standing. 

It  will  be  obvious  that  this  inclination  also  varies  with  the 
breeding  of  the  animal  and  the  conformation  of  the  limbs,  so  that 
no  definite  degree  can  be   assigned.      But   it  must  be  pointed   out, 


HORSE-SHOEING.  139 

that  giving  the  tugle  of  ib0,  as  is  done  in  almost  every  treatise  on 
shoeing  and  the  anatomy  of  the  foot,  is  a  grave  error.  Looked  at  in 
profile,  a  hoof  with  this  degree  of  obliquity  would  at  once  be  pro- 
nounced a  deformity — the  slope  is  too  great  (Fig.  6);  and  if  the  farrier 
were  to  attempt  bo  bring  every  foot  he  shod  to  this  standard,  he  would 
inflict  serious  injury,  not,  only  on  the  foot  itself,  but  also  on  the  back 
tendons  and  the  joints  of  the  limbs.  Careful  measurement  will  prove 
that  the  obliquity  of  the  front  of  the  hoof  is  rarely,  if  ever,  in  a  well- 
shaped  leg  and  foot,  above  50°,  and  that  it  is,  in  the  great  majority  of 
cases,  nearer  5 6°.  The  sides  or  ':  quarters"  of  the  wall  are  less  in- 
clined, though  the  outer  is  generally  more  so  than  the  inner  ;  while 
the  heels  are  still  more  vertical,  and  the  inner  may  even  incline 
slightly  inward.  Viewed  in  profile,  the  posterior  face  of  the  hoof  will 
be  observed  to  have  the  same  degree  of  slope  as  the  front  face.  In 
height,  the  heels  are  usually  a  little  more  than  one-half  that  of  the 
toe  ;  both  heels  are  equal  in  height. 

These  features,  as  will  be  seen  hereafter,  are  sufficiently  important 
to  be  constantly  remembered.  The  other  characteristics  are  to  be 
found  on  the  lover  or  ground  face  of  the  hoof— the  most  important, 
so  far  as  the  farrier's  art  is  concerned. 

In  a  natural  condition,  the  whole,  or  nearly  the  whole,  of  this  face 
comes  into  contact  with  the  ground,  each  part  participating  more  or 
less  in  sustaining  the  weight  thrown  upon  the  limb.  On  soft  or 
uneven  soil,  the  entire  lower  border  of  the  wall— the  sole,  bars  and 
frog — are  subjected  to  contact.  Nature  intended  them  to  meet  the 
ground,  and  there  to  sustain  the  animal's  weight,  as  well  as  the  force 
of  its  impelling  powers.  But  on  hard  or  rocky  land  with  a  level 
surface,  only  the  dense,  tough  crust  and  bars,  the  thick  portion  of  the 
sole   surrounded   by  them,  and  the  elastic,   retentive  frog,  meet  the 


140  HOBSE-SHOEING. 

force  of  the  weight  and  movement ;  and,  in  both  cases,  not  only  with 
impunity,  but  with  advantage  to  the  interior  of  the  foot,  as  well  as 
the  limb.  The  horn  on  this  face  is,  as  has  been  said,  dense,  tough 
and  springy  to  a  degree  varying  with  the  parts  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed ;  while  its  fibres  are  not  only  admirably  disposed  to  support 
weight,  secure  a  firm  grasp  of  the  ground,  and  aid  the  movements  of 
the  limbs,  but  are  also  an  excellent  medium  for  modifying  concussion 
or  jar  to  the  sensitive  and  vascular  structure  in  their  vicinity. 

•  The  whole  circumference  of  the  wall  meets  the  ground,  and  from 
the  disposition  of  its  fibres,  the  arrangement  of  the  cells  which  enter 
into  their  composition,  and  its  rigidity,  it  is  admirably  fitted  to  resist 
wear  and  sustain  pressure.  It  projects  more  or  less  beyond  the  level 
of  the  sole,  and  the  space  measured  between  the  white  zone  within  it 
and  its  outer  surface  gives  its  exact  thickness.  This  is  a  fact  not 
without  interest  to  the  farrier  in  the  operation  of  attaching  the  shoe 
by  nails,  as  these  have  to  be  driven  only  through  this  dense  horn 
— which  in  good  hoofs  cannot  be  said  to  much  exceed  half  an  inch  in 
thickness — and  in  proportion  to  its  thinness  is  the  necessity  for  care- 
fulness and  address  on  his  part,  in  order  to  guard  against  wounding 
or  bruising  the  sensitive  textures. 

The  sole  is  more  or  less  concave  from  its  junction  with  the  wall  ; 
nevertheless,  even  on  moderately  firm  ground,  a  portion  of  its  circum* 
ference,  which  is  generally  the  thickness  of  the  wall,  takes  a  share  in 
relieving  the  latter  of  pressure.  This  is  also  a  fact  to  be  borne  in  mind. 
In  soft  ground,  the  whole  of  its  lower  surface  is  made  to  aid  in  sus- 
taining the  weight  and  prevent  the  foot  sinking.  But  it  must  be 
noted  that  the  pressure  of  the  lower  face  of  the  pedal  bone  on 
the  upper  surface  of  the  sole  can  never  be  very  great,  else  the 
sensitive    membrane    between    them     would     be    seriously     injured. 


HOESE-SHOEING.  141 

This  injury  is  prevented  by  the  coronary,  and,  to  a  lesser  extent, 
by  the  plantar  cushion,  which  largely  retard  the  descent  of  the 
bone  on  the  floor  of  the  horny  box. 

The  frog,  on  both  hard  and  soft  ground,  is  an  essential  portion 
of  the  weight- bearing  face.  In  the  unshod,  healthy  foot  it  always 
projects  beyond  the  level  of  the  sole,  and  seldom  below  that  of  the 
wall  at  the  heels;  indeed,  it  is  found,  in  the  majority  of  hoofs, 
either  on  a  level  with  the  circumference  of  this  part,  or  beyond  it, 
so  that  its  contact  with  the  ground  is  assured.  Hence  its  utility 
in  obviating  concussion,  supporting  the  tendons,  and  on  slippery 
ground,  in  preventing  falls.  In  pulling  up  a  horse  sharply  in  the 
gallop,  or  in  descending  a  steep  hill,  the  frog,  together  with  the 
angular  recess  formed  by  the  bar  and  wall  at  the  heel  of  the  hoof, 
are  eminently  serviceable  in  checking  the  tendency  to  slip  ;  the 
animal  instinctively  plants  the  posterior  portions  of  the  foot  ex- 
clusively on  the  ground. 

Dark  hoofs  are  generally  the  best ;  they  owe  their  color  to  the 
presence  of  minute  particles  of  black  pigment,  which  contains 
a  notable  proportion  of  iron,  and  are  somewhat  resisting  and 
indestructible. 

A  good  hoof  should  have  the  wall  unbroken,  its  outer  face  smooth 
and  even  ;  the  angle  at  the  front  not  less  than  50°— the  lower  or 
ground  face  of  the  front  hoof  should  be  nearly  circular  in  outline — 
the  sole  slightly  concave  at  the  circumference,  deeper  at  the  center  ; 
the  border  of  the  wall  ought  to  be  thick  at  the  toe,  gradually 
thinning  towards  the  heels,  but  at  the  inflexion  or  commencement 
of  the  bar  a  strong  mass  of  horn  should  be  found;  the  bars 
should  be  free  from  fracture,  and  the  frog  moderately  developed, 
firm  and  solid. 

The  hind  foot  should  possess  the  same  soundness  of  horn,  though 
it  differs  from  the  fore  hoof  in  being  more  oval  in  outline  from  the 


142  1I0ESE-SH0EING. 

toe  to  the  heels  ;  the  sole  is  also  more  concave,  the  frog  smaller,  and  the 
heels  not  so  high.  The  horn  is  usually  less  hard  and  resisting — a 
circumstance  perhaps  due  to  the  hind  feet  being  more  frequently 
exposed  to  humidity  in  the  stable  than  the  fore  ones. 


GROWTH  OF  TFTE  HOOF 


In  any  treatise  on  shoeing,  the  growth  of  the  hoof  cannot  be  left 
out  of  consideration,  as  on  it  the  foot,  in  an  unshod  condition, 
depends  for  an  efficient  protection,  while  without  this  process  the 
farrier's  art  would  quickly  be  of  no  avail 

In  its  unarmed  state,  the  hoof  being  exposed  to  continual  wear 
on  its  lower  surface,  from  contact  with  the  ground  on  which  the 
animal  stands  or  moves,  is  unceasingly  regenerated  by  the  living 
tissues  within.  We  have  already  referred  to  the  special  apparatus 
which  is  more  immediately  concerned  in  this  wovk  of  regenera- 
tion, and  pointed  out  that  the  wall  with  the  laminae  on  its  inner 
face*  is  formed  from  the  coronary  cushion  at  the  upper  part  of  the 
foot ;  the  sole  from  the  living  membrane  covering  the  lower  face  of 
the  pedal  bone ;  and  the  frog  from  the  plantar  cushion.  It  has 
been  also  mentioned  that  this  dead  horny  envelope,  instead  of  being 
merely  in  juxtaposition  with  this  exquisitely  sensitive  secretory  mem- 
brane, is  everywhere  penetrated  to  a  certain  depth  on  its  inner  face 
(with  the  exception  of  the  portion  of  the  wall  covered  with  the 
horny  leaves)  by  multitudes  of  minute  processes  named  villi,  which 
are  not  only  concerned  in  the  growth  of  the  horn-fibres,  acting 
as  moulds  for  them,  and  endowing  the  hoof  with  that  degree 
of  lightness,  elasticity,  and  toughness,  which  are  so  necessary  to  its 


*  It  is  generally  stated  that  the  horny  leaves  are  formed  by  the  sensitive 
ones,  with  which  they  are  in  such  close  union.  That  this  is  an  error,  the 
microscope,  physiology,  and  pathological  experience,  abundantly  testify. 


HOESE-SHOEING.  I43 

efficiency,  but  also  make  this  insensitive  case  a  most  useful  organ  of 
touch. 

The  growth  of  the  horn  takes  place  by  the  deposition  of  new  ma- 
terial from  the  secreting  surface ;  this  deposition  is  effected  at  the 
commencement  or  root  of  the  fibres  ;  where  the  horn  is  jet  soft,  and 
its  incessant  operation  causes  these  fibres  to  be  mechanically  extended 
or  pushed  downward  toward  the  ground  in  a  mass.  Once  formed 
they  are  submitted  to  no  other  change  than  that  of  becoming  denser, 
harder,  less  elastic,  and  drier,  as  they  recede  farther  from  the  surface' 
from  which  they  originated. 


So  regular  is  this  growth  generally  in  every  part  of  the  hoof  that 
it  would  appear  that  the  secreting  membrane  is  endowed  with  an 
equal  activity  throughout. 

But,  though  this  equality  in  the  amount  of  horn  secreted  over  so 
wide  a  surface  is  an  undoubted  fact,  yet  it  must  not  be  forgotten 
that,  under  the  influence  of  certain  conditions,  the  growth  or  descent 
of  the  corneous  material  may  be  effected  in  an  irregular  manner, 
either  through  a  particular  portion  of  the  secretory  apparatus  as' 
Burning  a  more  energetic  activity  or  being  hindered  more  or  less  in  its 
function. 

For  instance,  the  way  in  which  the  foot  is  planted  on  the  ground 
has  a  most  marked  influence,  not  only  on  the  amount  of  horn 
secreted,  but  also  on  that  subjected  to  wear. 

When  the  superincumbent  weight  is  equally  distributed  over  the 
lower  face  of  the  hoof,  the  foot  may  be  said  to  be  properly  placed  as 
a  basis  of  support  to  the  limb  ;  but  when,  through  mismanagement 
or  defective  form,  this  base  is  uneven— one  side  higher  than  the 
other,  for  example— the  weight  must  fall  on  the  lowest  part  to  a 
greater  degree  than  the  highest ;  thus  causing  not  only  disturbance 
in  the  direction  of  the  limb  and  its  movements,  but  considerably 
modifying  the  growth  of  the  horn.  This  growth  is  diminished  at  the 
part  subjected  to  most  pressure— in  all  probability  from  the  smaller 


144  HOESE-SHOEIXG. 

quantity  of  blood  allowed  to  be  circulated  through  the  secretory 
surface ;  while  to  the  side  which  is  subjected  to  the  least  compression 
the  blood  is  abundantly  supplied,  and  the  formation  of  horn  is  con- 
sequently augmented.  This  is  a  fact  of  much  importance  and 
practical  interest  in  farriery,  as  it  demonstrates  that  an  irregularity 
in  the  distribution  of  the  weight  of  the  body  on  the  foot  has  a 
prejudicial  effect  on  the  secreting  apparatus  of  the  organ,  and,  as 
a  result,  on  the  form  of  the  hoof. 

When  the  weight  is  evenly  imposed  on  the  foot,  this  apparatus, 
being  uniformly  compressed  throughout  its  extent,  receives  every- 
where an  equal  quantity  of  the  horn-producing  material. 

It  is  the  same  with  the  ivear  of  the  hoof.  A  just  disposition  of 
the  weight  is  a  necessary  condition  of  the  regularity  of  wear.  While 
the  animal  is  standing  on  unshod  hoofs  the  wear  of  horn  is  slight  ; 
it  is  in  movement  that  it  becomes  increased,  and  this  increase  is 
generally  in  proportion  to  the  speed,  the  weight  carried,  nature  of  the 
ground,  and  whether  its  surface  be  wet  or  dry.  Each  portion  of  tfie 
lower  face  of  the  hoof — wall,  sole,  bars  and  frog — should  take  its 
share  of  wear  and  strain  ;  but  it  will  be  readily  understood  that  this 
cannot  be  properly  effected  if  the  weight  is  thrown  more  upon  one 
side  than  the  other.  That  part  which  receives  the  largest  share  will 
be  subjected  to  the  greatest  amount  of  loss  from  wear,  and  this,  with 
the  diminished  secretion  of  horn,  will  tend  to  distort  foot  and  limb 
still  more. 

In  a  well-formed  leg  and  foot  the  degrees  of  resistance  of  the 
different  parts  of  the  hoof  are  so  well  apportioned  to  the  amount  of 
wear  to  be  sustained,  that  all  are  equally  reduced  by  contact  with  the 
ground,  and  the  whole  is  maintained  in  a  perfect  condition  as  regards 
growth  and  wear. 

The  amount  of  growth,  even  in  a  well-proportioned  foot,  varies 
considerably  in  different  animals,  according  to  the  activity  prevailing 


HORSE-SHOEING.  ^g 

in,  or  the  development  of,  the  secreting  apparatus  3  and  in  this  respect 
the  operations  of  the  farrier,  as  we  will  notice  hereafter,  are  not  with- 
out  much  influence. 

It  may  be  laid  down  as  a  rule  that  the  horn  grows  more  rapidly  in 
warm,  dry  climates  than  in  cold,  wet  ones;  in  healthy,  energetic  ani- 
mals than  in  those  which  are  soft  and  weakly ;  during  exercise  than  in 
repose;  in  young  than  in  old  animals.  Food,  labor  and  shoeing  also 
add  their  influence;  while  the  seasons  are  to  some  extent  concerned  in 
the  growth  and  shape  of  the  hoof.  In  winter  it  widens,  becomes 
softer  and  grows  but  little;  in  summer  it  is  condensed,  becomes  more 
rigid,  concave  and  resisting,  is  exposed  to  severer  wear  and  grows  more 
rapidly.  This  variation  is  a  provision  of  nature  to  enable  the  hoof  to 
adapt  itself  to  the  altered  conditions  it  has  to  meet  :  hard  horn  fco  hard 
ground,  soft  horn  to  soft  ground. 

In  this  way  we  can  account  for  the  influence  of  locality  upon  the 
shape  of  the  foot,  On  hard,  dry  ground,  the  hoof  is  dense,  tenacious 
and  small,  with  concave  sole,  and  a  little  but  firm  frog;  in  marshy- 
regions,  it  is  large  and  spreading,  the  horn  soft  and  easily  destroyed 
by  wear,  the  sole  thin  and  flat,  and  the  frog  an  immense  spongy  mass, 
which  is  badly  fitted  to  receive  pressure  from  slightly  hardened  soil. 
In  a  dry  climate,  we  have  an  animal  small,  compact,  wiry  and  vigorous, 
travelling  on  a  surface  which  demands  a  tenacious  hoof,  and  not  one 
adapted  to  prevent  sinking;  in  the  marshy  region  we  have  a  large* 
heavy,  lymphatic  creature,  one  of  whose  primary  requirements  is  a  foot 
designed  to  travel  on  a  soft,  yielding  surface.  Change  the  respective 
situations  of  these  two  horses,  and  Nature  immediately  begins  to  trans- 
form them  and  their  feet.  The  light,  excitable,  vigorous  horse,  with 
its  small  vertical  hoofs  and  concave  soles,  so  admirably  disposed  to 
traverse  rocky  and  slippery  surfaces,  is  physically  incompetent  to  exist 
on  low-lying  swamps;   while    the  unwieldy  animal,   slow-paced   and 


146  HOKSE-SHOEINGK 

torpid,  with  a  foot  perfectly  adapted  to  such  a  region — its  ground 
face  being  so  extensive  and  flat  that  it  sinks  but  little,  and  the  frog 
developed  to  such  a  degree  as  to  resemble  a  ploughshare  in  form, 
which  gives  it  a  grip  of  the  soft,  slippery  ground — is  but  indifferently 
suited  for  travelling  on  a  hard,  rugged  surface.  In  process  of  time, 
however,  the  small  concave  hoof  expands  and  flattens,  and  the  large 
flat  one  gradually  becomes  concentrated,  hardened  and  hollow,  to  suit 
the  altered  physical  conditions  in  which  they  are  placed. 

The  degree  of  health  possessed  by  the  horn-secreting  apparatus 
at  any  time  has  also  much  to  do  with  its  activity  in  generating  new 
material.  When  its  blood-vessels  become  congested  or  contracted 
from  some  cause  or  other,  its  function  is  in  a  proportionate  degree 
suspended,  and  the  hoof  grows  in  an  irregular  manner,  and  may  be 
altered  in  thickness,  texture  and  quality. 

In  the  ordinary  conditions  of  town  work  and  stable  management, 
I  have  observed  that  the  wall  of  a  healthy  foot — its  chief  portion, 
so  far  as  farriery  is  concerned — grows  down  from  the  coronet  at  the 
rate  of  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  per  month,  and  that  the  entire 
wall  of  a  medium-sized  hoof  has  been  regenerated  in  from  nine  to 
twelve  months. 

The  process  of  growth  can  be  greatly  accelerated  and  exaggerated 
by  irritating  the  surface  which  throws  out  the  horn  material.  Thus 
a  blister,  hot  iron,  or  any  other  irritant  or  stimulant  applied  to  this 
part,  will  induce  not  only  a  more  rapid  formation,  but  one  in  which 
increased  thickness  is  a  marked  feature. 


SHOEING. 

In  the  foregoing  pages  we  have  considered  the  foot  of  the  horse  in 
natural  condition,  as  perfectly  adapted  for  the  performance  of 


HOUSE-SHOEING-.  147 

most  essential  functions :  as  a  basis  of  support  while  the  animal  is 
standing,  and,  in  addition,  as  a  powerful  propelling  instrument  during 
progression. 

We  have  also  pointed  out  that  the  hoof  which  envelopes  it,  like 
a  huge  finger-nail,  is  admirably  constructed  and  endowed  as  an  aid 
and  protection  to  this  organ,  its  utility  mainly  depending  on  the 
texture  and  arrangement  of  the  horny  matter  of  which  it  is  composed, 
and  the  peculiar  disposition  of  this  in  fibres  of  variable  density,  size, 
and  elasticity. 

But  these  qualities  of  the  hoof,  it  was  again  remarked,  are  intimately 
dependent  upon  the  manner  in  which  the  horn-secreting  surface 
performed  its  office;  as  if  this  becomes  diminished,  weakened,  or 
unable  to  supply  sufficient  material  to  compensate  for  undue  wear, 
the  protecting  case  soon  ceases  to  guard  the  living  tissues  within  from 
injury. 

In  a  natural  state,  when  the  equilibrium  between  growth  and  wear 
is  destroyed,  and  the  latter  takes  place  in  a  rapid  and  unusual 
manner,  the  animal  is  compelled  to  rest  until  the  worn  hoof  has  re- 
covered its  proper  thickness ;  for  acute  pain  results  when  the  living 
parts  are  exposed,  or  when  the  wasted  horn  is  insufficient  to  guard 
them  against  being  bruised  by  the  ground. 

In  an  artificial  condition,  when  the  horse  is  employed  on  hard  roads, 
broken  ground,  and  in  a  humid  climate,  to  carry  and  draw  heavy 
loads  at  different  degrees  of  velocity,  and  forced  to  stand  on  stony 
pavements  during  resting  hours,  his  hoofs  are  unable  to  meet  the 
many  severe  demands  imposed  upon  them. 

The  wear  more  than  counterbalances  the  growth  ;  and,  therefore 
it  becomes  an  absolute  necessity,  if  the  animal  is  to  be  continuously 
and  profitably  utilized,  that  an  artificial  protection,  sufficient  to  meet 
the  exigencies  of  the  case,  be  employed. 


148  HOESE-SHOEINa. 

The  lower  border  of  the  wall  is,  as  we  hare  mentioned,  the  part 
most  deeph  concerned  in  resisting  wear  and  strain  in  the  unshod 
state,  as  on  it  the  stress  chiefly  fails  ;  it  is,  consequently,  the  portion 
of  the  hoof  that  suffers  most  severely  from  undue  wear,  and  that 
which  alone  requires  protection. 

This  fact  must  have  been  brought  prominently  before  the  primitive 
shoers  thousands  of  years  ago,  as  the  earliest  specimens  of  shoes  yet 
discovered  are  narrow,  and  in  width  do  not  much  exceed  the  thickness 
of  the  wall.  To  guarantee  this  from  wear  was  to  increase  the  value 
of  the  horse  a  thousandfold,  and  the  simply- wrought,  narrow  rim  of 
iron,  boldly  and  securely  attached  to  the  hoof  by  a  few  rudely-shaped 
nails,  was  sufficient  for  the  purpose. 

But  having  fastened  on  this  light  metallic  armature,  and  allowed  it 
to  remain  fixed  to  the  hoof  for  a  lengthened  period,  it  would  soon  be 
discovered  that  the  balance  between  growth  and  wear  was  again  dis- 
turbed, but  this  time  in  favor  of  growth  ;  for  the  wall  being  removed 
from  contact  with  the  ground,  and  the  rate  of  growth  continuing  as 
in  the  unshod  state,  the  hoof,  instead  of  becoming  diminished  as 
before,  now  became  abnormally  overgrown  and  caused  inconvenience. 
Then  the  shoe  required  to  be  taken  off,  and  the  superfluous  growth 
either  removed  by  instruments  and  the  shoe  replaced,  or  the  animal 
made  to  travel  without  the  iron  defence  until  it  was  again  needed 
when  the  hoof  had  become  too  much  worn. 

Such  was  horse-shoeing,  in  all  probability,  in  early  times,  and  such 
it  is  at  the  present  day  where  utility  is  not  sacrificed  to  stupid 
theories  or  foolish  practices. 

The  evils  attending  the  usual  methods  of  shoeing  are,  as  has 
been  said,  very  serious  and  glaring;  and  the  chief  of  these  do  not 
so  much  depend  upon  the  faulty  conformation  of  the  shoe — though 
this  is,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  not   to  be  exempted  from   blame — 


HORSE-SHOEING.  149 

as  upon  the  treatment  the  hoof  receives  before  and  after  the  ap- 
plication of  that  article. 

To  illustrate  these  evils,  and  to  show  how  unreasonable  the 
modern  art  of  farriery  is,  as  well  as  how  it  should  be  practised 
we  will  commence  with  the  foot  of  the  unshod  colt,  and,  in  the 
simplest  words  at  our  command,  indicate  the  ordinary  procedure 
in  applying  shoes  to  its  hoofs  for  the  first  time,  pointing  out,  at 
each  step  in  the  process,  what  is  wrong  and  what  is  right,  and  giving 
reasons  for  the  adoption  of  the  principles  which  ought  to  guide  the 
farrier  in  this  most  important  operation. 


PREPARING  THE  HOOF. 

We  will  premise  that  the  young  horse  about  to  have  its  hoofs 
armed  for  the  first  time  is  tolerably  docile,  and  that  its  tranquility 
is  not  likely  to  be  severely  disturbed  by  the  strange  manipulations 
to  which  its  limbs  are  to  be  subjected.  For  many  months  previously 
its  attendants  have  had  this  ordeal  in  view,  and  in  handling  it  have 
not  forgotten  to  manipulate  its  legs  and  feet  quietly  and  gently  in 
something  the  same  fashion  that  the  farrier  is  likely  to  do -even 
going  so  far  in  the  lesson  as  to  tap  lightly  on  its  uplifted  hoof,  as 
if  nailing  on  the  shoe.  The  young  creature  is  intelligent  enough  to 
perceive  that  in  this  no  harm  or  punishment  is  intended,  and  it  soon 
becomes  familiar  with  the  practice. 

The  farrier  who  shoes  a  young  horse  for  the  first  or  second 
time  should  be  a  patient,  good-tempered  man,  and  an  adept  in 
the  management  of  horses  and  handling  their  limbs.  If  the  opera- 
tion is  to  be  performed  in  a  forge,  there  should  be  as  little  noise  of 
hammers  or  glare  of  fires  as  possible— everything  ought  to  be  con- 
ducted quietly,  steadily,  and  with  kindness.  Harsh  treatment  or 
unskillful  handling  should  be  severely  reprehended,  and  all  restraint 


150  HOESE-SHOEING. 

or  contention  ought  to  be  dispensed  with — at  any  rate  until  gentle- 
ness and  patience  have  been  diligently  employed  and  have  failed. 
If  accustomed  to  companions,  it  should  have  one  or  two  horses- 
beside  it  in  the  forge. 

In  describing  the  construction  of  the  foot,  we  referred  to  the 
shape  of  a  well-formed  hoof.  We  will  presume  the  animal  be- 
fore us — like  nearly  every  unshod  horse — has  hoofs  of  this  de- 
scription. 

The  first  step,  usually,  in  the  preparation  of  this  part  for  the 
shoe,  is  to  level  and  shorten  the  lower  margin  of  the  wall,  pare 
the  sole  and  frog,  and  open  up  the  heels.  These  details  may 
not  be  carried  out  so  fully  in  the  first  shoeing  as  subsequently, 
but  we  will  note  them  as  they  are  commonly  practised  during  the 
horse's  lifetime. 

Leveling  the  Wall  is  an  important  operation,  which  but  few 
artisans  rightly  understand  or  care  to  do  properly.  It  has  been 
stated  that  unequal  pressure  on  one  side  of  the  foot — one  side  of 
the  wall  being  lower  than  the  other — is  not  only  injurious  to  the 
whole  limb  by  the  undue  strain  it  imposes  on  the  joints  and  liga- 
ments, but  that  it  tends  to  deform  the  hoof  and  modify  the  growth 
of  the  horn. 

It  is,  therefore,  most  essential  that  both  sides  of  the  hoof  be 
of  equal  depth,  in  addition  to  the  whole  lower  margin  of  the  wall 
being  level ;  and  to  make  them  so,  the  rasp  should  be  applied  to 
this  border  in  an  oblique  manner,  across  the  ends  of  its  fibres,  to 
bring  them  to  the  same  length. 

A  good  idea  of  the  necessary  redaction  to  be  effected  on  either 
side  will  be  derived  from  an  inspection  of  the  limb  from  the  knee 
or  hock  downward  whenjplaced  firmly  and  straight  upon  the  ground. 
Any  deviation  of  the  hoof  to  the  inside  or  outside — most  frequently 
it  is  the  former— can  be  readily  detected  by  looking  at  the  leg  and 
hoof  in  front. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  151 

The  ground  surface  of  the  foot  should  be  directly  transverse 
to  the  direction  of  the  pastern,  and  it  is  in  maintaining  or 
restoring  this  relation,  that  care  and  skill  are  required.  If  the 
pastern  is  perpendicular  to  the  shank-bone,  and  the  two  sides  of  the 
lower  margin  of  the  foot  are  directly  transverse  to  the  line  passing 
down  from  these,  then  the  wall  has  only  to  be  lowered  equally  on 
both  sides,  if  it  be  too  high. 

It  must  be  remembered,  in  levelling  both  sides  of  the  lower  sur- 
face of  the  hoof,  that  the  difference  of  a  few  fractions  of  an  inch 
between  them  will  cause  considerable,  and  perhaps  very  hurtful, 
oscillations  of  the  weight  thrown  on  the  limb. 

A  properly-instructed  farrier  should  be  able,  at  a  glance  across  the 
upturned  foot,  to  discover  whether  it  is  tolerably  level.  In  Fig.  7  I 
have  shown  what  is  meant  by  a  properly -levelled  hoof,  the  dotted  line 


Fig.  7. 

a  a  being  directly  transverse  to  the  vertical  line  b,  and  the  distance 
from  a  to  c  of  one  side  being  equal  to  that  from  a  to  c  of  the  other. 

Shortening  the  Wall.— Reducing  the  wall  to  proper  dimensions 
is  another  important  matter  in  connection  with  the  preparation  of 
the  foot  for  the  shoe.  We  have  seen  that  the  natural  and  moderate 
wear  of  the  unshod  hoof  is  compensated  for  by  the  incessant  down- 
ward growth  of  the  horn,  and  that  this  process  of  wear  and  regene- 
ration maintains  the  proper  dimensions  and  just  bearing  of  the  foot. 
But  on  the  application  of  the  shoe  a  barrier  is  at  once  opposed  to 
the  wear,  while  the  growth  is  not  interfered  with  ;   consequently,  the 


152  HORSE-SHOEING. 

hoof  continually  increases  in  length  and  obliquity — a  change  which 
causes  derangement  in  the  disposition  of  the  weight  of  the  lower  par* 
of  the  leg  and  foot,  and  other  inconveniences. 

In  speaking  of  the  growth  of  the  horn,  it  was  remarked  that  in 
health  this  took  place  in  a  regular  manner  over  the  whole  surface.  It 
seems  rather  contradictory,  therefore,  to  assert  that  the  hoof  increases 
in  obliquity — appears  to  grow  faster  at  the  toe  than  the  heels — when, 
if  this  statement  was  correct,  their  increase  in  length  should  be  always 
the  same.     In  the   unshod   hoof  this   lengthening   of  the  toe  is   not 


Fig. 


observed;  it  only  occurs  in  one  that  has  been  sho^,  and  is  to  be 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  shoe,  not  being  nailed  back  so  far 
as  the  heels,  is,  every  time  the  foot  falls  on  the  ground,  pressed 
against  the  horn  at  these  parts,  and  so  great  is  this  downward  friction 
or  pressure  that,  after  a  time,  not  only  is  the  hoof  considerably  worn, 
but  the  face  of  the  shoe  is  also  deeply  channelled  at  corresponding 
points.  Owing  to  the  shoe  being  firmly  fixed  around  the  toe,  there 
is  no  play  at  this  part,  and  hence  the  apparent  inequality  in  growth 
between  the  front  and  back  of  the  hoof — a  circumstance  more  observ- 
able in  the  fore  than  the  hind  foot,  from  the  heels  of  the  former 
being  more  under  the  centre  of  gravity,  and  so  having  a  greater  weight 
to  sustain. 

The  pastern  and  foot  form  part  of  a  lever  that  extends  fr®m  the 
fetlock  to  the  ground  and  supports  the  weight  of  the  body.  The 
strain    comes    perpendicularly   from    the     shoulder    to    the    fetlock 


HORSE-SHOEING.  153 

Fig.  S,  a,  c)  ;  but  thence  to  the  ground  it  passes  along  the  pastern 
and  foot  (c,  d)—  the  extremity  of  the  lever— and  these  are  inclined 
more  or  less  obliquely  forward  ;  hence  the  charge  imposed  on  the 
limb  has  an  incessant  tendency  to  increase  this  obliquity  by 
bringing  the  fetlock  nearer  the  ground  (6).  To  resist  this  ten- 
dency, however,  we  have  the  two  flexor  tendons  and  the  powerful 
suspensory  ligament  at  the  back  of  the  limb,  which  support  this 
joint  and  maintain  its  angle. 

But  it  will  be  readily  understood  that  the  longer  and  less 
upright  this  lever  is,  the  greater  is  the  strain  and  fatigue  thrown 
upon  the  tendons  and  ligament.  Though  an  oblique  pastern  may 
look  graceful  and  make  the  horse's  step  more  elastic  and  agree- 
able to  the  rider,  yet  when  the  degree  of  obliquity  exceeds  that 
intended  by  nature,  great  risk  is  incurred  of  injury  to  the  sup- 
porting apparatus.  Hence  the  necessity  for  maintaining  the  hoof 
at  its  normal  angle — a  necessity,  however,  which  can  never  be 
met  except  at  the  moment  when  the  animal  is  newly  shod ;  for  no 
sooner  is  the  equilibrium  restored  between  the  front  and  back  of 
the  hoof  and  the  shoe  fastened  on  than  it  begins  to  |be  disturbed 
again.  This  inconvenience  is  inevitable,  from  the  very  nature  of 
the  means  we  adopt  to  defend  the  foot  from  injury. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  suspensory  apparatus  is  less  severely 
taxed,  as  the  lever  is  short  and  vertical ;  or,  in  other  words,  as 
the  pastern  and  hoof  are  upright.  But  this,  though  relieving  the 
tendons  and  ligament,  throws  the  weight  too  directly  on  the 
T3ones ;  consequently  the  jar  to  these  and  the  whole  limb  is  great, 
and  even  dangerous,  while  the  back  parts  of  the  foot  are  unduly 
strained  to  relieve  them. 

It  must  be,  then,  very  evident  that  levelling  and  bringing  the 
ground-face  of  the  hoof  to  the  necessary  length— equal  on  both 
sides  from  toe  to  heel,  and  justly  proportioned  in  depth  at  toe 
and  heel— is  no  trifling  matter,  as  the  soundness  of  the  limb  and 


154 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


ease  in  progression  are  concerned  in  the  operation.  Excessive 
length  or  obliquity  of  hoof  strains  back  tendons  and  ligament  ;  a 
hoof  long  at  the  toe  and  low  at  the  heels  (Fig.  9,  a,  b)  increases 
the  obliquity ;  on  the  contrary,  when  the  heels  are  high  and  the 
toe  of  the  hoof  too  short  (Fig.  9,  c,  d),  the  bones  suffer  and  the 
whole  limb  experiences,  more  or  less,  the  effects  of  concussion. 


Fis 


In  both  cases  progression  is  fatiguing,  imperfect  and  hurtful 
to  au  extent  proportionate  to  the  excess. 

Another  disadvantage  in  shoeing,  arising  from  the  tendency  of 
the  hoof  to  increase  in  length  at  the  toe,  and  also  from  its  form, 
is  the  change  in  the  position  of  the  shoe  itself.  The  hoof  being 
more  or  less  conical  in  shape,  with  its  base  opposed  to  the  ground,. 
it  follows  that,  as  it  increases  in  length,  its  lower  circumference 
also  widens  in  every  direction.  The  result  is  that  the  shoe, 
although  at  one  time  accurately  fitting  the  hoof,  gradually 
becomes  too  narrow  ;  at  the  same  time,  the  increase  in  length  at 
the  toe  carries  the  iron  plate  forward,  away  from  the  heels. 

This  is  one  more  of  the  inevitable  evils  of  shoeing,  but  which, 
nevertheless,  the  skillful  workman  may  greatly  palliate. 

The  farrier  equalizes  both  sides  of  the  hoof  by  applying  his 
rasp  in  a  sloping  direction  to  the  ground  border  or  end  of  the  wall ; 
he  also  brings  it  to  its  natural  angle  with  the  same  instrument,  by 


HORSE-SHOEING.  155 

removing  the  necessary  amount  of  horn  from  the  margin  of  the  hoof 
at  the  toe  or  heels  ;  by  reducing  the  former  without  interfering  with 
the  latter,  the  obliquity  of  the  foot  is  diminished  (as  in  Figs.  9,  c,  d, 
10,  a)  ;  while  rasping  down  the  heels  and  leaving  the  toe  untouched  in- 
creases it  (Fig.  9,  a,  b) . 

In  the  great  majority  -of  cases,  the  heels,  for  the  reason  stated, 
require  but  little  interference ;  the  excess  of  growth  is  nearly  always 
at  the  toe,  and  thus  no  absolute  rule  can  be  laid  down  as  to  the  angle 
to  which  the  hoof  should  be  brought.  The  practiced  eye  can  discern 
at  once  whether  the  angle  is  in  conformity  with  the  natural  bearing 


Fig.  10. 

of  the  limb,  and  will  have  no  difficulty  in  adjusting  it,  should  it  not  be 
so,  provided  there  is  sufficient  horn  to  spare  for  this  purpose. 

We  have  previously  shown  that  the  inclination  of  the  front  of  the 
hoof  varies  from  50°  to  60°,  and  probably  the  mean  between  these  two 
angles  will  be  that  usually  observed.  (Fig.  9,  g,  e,  /,  is  a  hoof  with 
about  52°  of  obliquity;  g,  at  5,  45°;  g,  c,  d,  more  than  60°.) 

On  ordinary  occasions,  causing  the  horse  to  stand  on  a  level  floor, 
and  viewing  the  hoof  in  profile  a  few  paces  off,  is  sufficient  to  inform 
one  of  the  angle;  but  to  insure  attention  to  this  matter  and  prevent 
mistakes,  I  have  contrived  a  little  instrument  for  my  farriers,  which 
at  once  shows  them  the  degree  of  obliquity,  and  gives   them  an  in- 


156  HORSE-SHOEING. 

dication  as  to  the  amount  of  horn  to  be  removed  from  the  toe  or 
heels. 

In  the  operation  of  levelling  and  shortening  the  hoof,  is  included 
the  general  reduction  of  the  wall. 

Provided  the  hoof,  before  it  comes  into  the  hands  of  the  farrier, 
has  the  proper  inclination  and  is  equal  on  both  sides  of  its  ground 
face,  but  is  nevertheless  overgrown,  the  artisan  has  then  only  to 
remove  the  excess  of  growth  without  disturbing  the  relations  between 
the  several  regions  of  the  wall.  Or  should  the  hoof  be  overgrown, 
too  oblique,  too  upright,  or  unequal  at  the  sides,  then  in  remedying 
the  one  defect  he  at  the  same  time  remedies  all.  The  amount  of 
horn  to  be  removed  from  the  margin  of  the  hoof  will  depend  upon 
circumstances.  It  may  be  laid  clown  as  a  rule,  however,  that  there 
being  but  little  horn  to  remove  at  the  heels,  these  should  only  be 
rasped   sufficiently  to  insure  the  removal  of  all   loose  material   in- 


Fig.  11. 

capable  of  supporting  the  shoe;  the  quarters  or  sides  of  the  hoof 
may  require  a  freer  application  of  the  rasp,  but  as  the  toe  is  reached, 
a  larger  quantity  must  be  removed,  as  in  Fig.  11,  a  >£.  The  limit 
to  this  removal  at  the  front  of  the  hoof  must  be  when  the  wall  is 
almost  or  quite  reduced  to  a  level  with  the  strong  unpared  sole. 
It  must  ever  be  borne  in  mind  that,  if  the  wall  does  not  stand  beyond 
the  level  of  the  sole,  it  does  not  require  reducing. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  157 

When  the  circumference  of  the  hoof  has  at  length  been 
brought  to  a  condition  fit  to  receive  the  shoe,  the  rasp  must 
finish  its  task  by  removing  the  sharp  edge,  and  rounding  it  so 
as  to  leave  a  thick  strong  border  not  likely  to  chip.  The  unshod 
hoof  nearly  always  exhibits  this  provision  against  fracture  of  the 
wall-fibres. 

Paring  the  Sole. — After  the  necessary  diminution  and  correc- 
tion of  the  obliquity  of  the  hoof,  and  the  preparation  of  the  bed 
for  the  shoe,  the  farrier  usually  proceeds  to  pare  the  sole.  In- 
deed, while  the  colt  is  still  at  large,  and  before  the  time  has 
arrived  when  its  hoofs  are  to  be  shod  with  iron,  the  workman  is 
frequently  called  in  to  trim  the  hoofs,  and  paring  the  lower 
surface  is  part  of  the  operation. 

This  procedure  is  as  barbarous  as  it  is  unreasonable,  especially 
when  carried  to  the  extent  that  has  been  advised  in  books  on 
horse-shoeing,  viz.,  to  pare  the  sole  until  it  springs  to  the 
pressure  of  the  thumb.  In  the  great  majority  of  forges  this 
most  pernicious  practice  is  carried  out,  either  because  the  owner 
of  the  horse  thinks  it  necessary,  the  groom  or  coachman  that  it 
makes  the  horse  go  better  and  the  feet  to  look  well,  or  the 
farrier  that  it  is  more  workmanlike — though  if  he  is  pressed 
hard  for  any  other  reason  he  is  unable  to  give  one  of  a  satis- 
factory character. 

Like  so  many  practices  relating  to  the  management  of  the 
horse,  this  paring  of  the  sole  is  absurd  in  the  extreme,  and  has 
not  the  most  trifling  recommendation  to  support  it.  Unfor- 
tunately for  those  who  recommend,  and  also  those  who  practice 
it,  its  evil  effects  are  not  immediately  apparent ;  a  horse  with 
his  soles  denuded  of  their  horn  until  the  blood  is  oozing  through 
them,  may  not  at  the  moment  manifest  arfy  great  suffering, 
and  may  even  go  tolerably  sound  on  a  level  pavement,  though,  if 


158  HORSE-SHOEING. 

he  chanced  to  put  his  foot  on  uneven  ground  or  a  sharp  stone, 
his  agony  may  be  so  acute  as  to  cause  him  to  fall. 

The  paring  knife  is  skillfully  used  to  remove  all  the  surface 
horn  down  to  that  which  has  been  most  recently  formed,  or  is 
in  process  of  forming.  So  anxious  is  the  groom  or  farrier  that 
this,  to  them,  most  important  operation  should  be  carried  out, 
that  the  soles  are  filled  with  cow  dung,  or  some  other  filth,  for 
some  time  previously,  in  order  that  the  horn  may  be  softened 
and  rendered  more  amenable  to  mutilation.  When  this  "  stop- 
ping" has  not  been  done,  and  particularly  in  hot,  dry  weather, 
the  sole  is  often  so  hard  that  it  cannot  be  touched  by  the  knife, 
in  which  case  a  red-hot  iron  is  applied  to  the  surface  to  soften 
the  horn,  or  hot  ashes  are  used.  Then  the  bars  and  soles  are 
sliced  away  until  nothing  is  left  but  the  thinnest  pellicle  of  their 
natural  protection,  through  which  not  unfrequently  the  blood 
may  be  oozing.  This  is  nothing  else  than  downright  cruelty,  and 
should  meet  with  the  punishment  it  so  well  deserves. 

To  remove  the  excessive  growth  of  the  wall  is  an  absolute 
necessity ;  but  to  denude  the  sole  of  its  horn  is  wanton  injury 
to  the  foot  and  cruelty  to  the  animal.  This  is  easily  accounted 
for.  The  sole  only  increases  its  substance  to  a  certain  thickness 
— never  too  much — and  then  the  excess  is  thrown  off  in  flakes  in 
a  natural  manner.  In  this  way  the  sensitive  parts  are  amply 
protected  ;  the  sole  can  sustain  a  share  of  the  weight — especially 
around  its  margin  in  front,  where  it  is  strongest — and  meet  the 
ground,  however  rough  and  stony  this  may  be,  with  perfect 
impunity.     This  is  its  function. 

It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  horn  is  secreted  from  the  living 
surface,  and  that  myriads  of  beautiful  vascular  and  sensitive  tufts 
dependent  from  this  surface,  enter  the  horn-fibres  to  a  certain 
depth,  and  play  an  important  part  in  the  formation  of  the  sole. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  159 

The  newly-formed  torn  is  soft  and  spongy,  and  incapable  of 
resisting  exposure  to  the  air,  but  as  it  is  pushed  further  away 
from  this  surface  by  successive  deposits  of  fresh  material,  it 
becomes  old  horn,  loses  its  moisture,  and  in  doing  so  acquire^ 
hardness  and  rigidity  sufficient  to  withstand  external  influences  ; 
then  it  is  subjected  to  wear,  and  if  this  be  insufficient  to  reduce  it 
sufficiently,  it  falls  off  in  scales.  But  the  process  of  exfoliation  is 
not  a  rapid  one ;  the  flakes  remain  attached  to  the  solid  horn 
beneath,  more  or  less  firmly,  until  it  in  turn  commences  to  loosen 
on  the  surface,  and  yield  new  flakes,  when  the  old  ones  separate. 
This  natural  diminution  in  the  excess  of  horn  of  the  sole  is  a 
most  beneficial  process  for  the  hoof.  Horn  is  a  slow  conductor  of 
heat  and  cold,  and  when  thick,  retains  moisture  for  a  long  period. 
These  flakes,  then,  act  as  a  natural  "  stopping"  to  the  hoof,  by 
accumulating  and  relating  moisture  beneath,  and  this  not  only 
keeps  the  foot  cool  as  it  slowly  evaporates,  but  ensures  for  the 
solid  and  growing  horn  its  toughness,  elasticity  and  proper 
development.  In  addition  to  this,  every  flake  acts  more  or  less 
as  a  spring  in  warding  off  bruises  or  other  injuries  to  the  sole ; 
and  thus  the  floor  of  the  horny  box  is  protected  from  injury, 
externally  and  internally. 

What  occurs  when  the  farrier,  following  out  the  routine  of  his 
craft,  or  obeying  the  injunctions  of  those  as  ignorant  as  himself, 
or  so  prejudiced  as  not  to  be  able  to  reason,  pares  the  sole  until  it 
springs  to  the  pressure  of  his  thumb  ?  Why,  the  lower  surface  of 
the  foot — that  which  is  destined  to  come  into  contact  with  the 
around,  and  to  encounter  its  inequalities,  and  which  more  than 
any  other  part  requires  to  be  efficiently  shielded — is  at  once 
ruthlessly  denuded  of  its  protection,  and  exposed  to  the  most 
serious  injury.  The  immature  horn,  stripped  of  its  outer  cover- 
ing, immediately  begins  to  experience  the  evil  effects  of  external 


160  HORSE-SHOEING. 

influences  ;  it  loses  its  moisture,  drys,  hardens,  and  shrivels  up  j 
it  also  occupies  a  smaller  space,  and  in  doing  so,  the  sole  becomes 
more  concave,  drawing  after  it  the  wall — for  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  sole  is  a  strong  stay  against  contraction  of  the 
lower  margin  of  the  hoof — and  the  consequence  is  that  the  foot 
gradually  decreases  in  size,  and  the  quarters  and  heels  narrow. 
The  animal  goes  "  tender,"  even  on  smooth  ground ;  but  if  he 
chance  to  put  his  mutilated  sole  on  a  stone,  what  pain  must  he 
experience  !  This  tenderness  on  even  ground  or  smoothly  paved 
roads  arises  from  the  fact,  that  not  only  is  the  entire  sensitive 
surface  compressed,  irritated,  or  inflamed  by  the  hard,  contract- 
ing envelope,  and  the  unnatural  exposure  to  sudden  changes  of 
heat  and  cold,  but  the  little  sensitive  processes  contained  at  the 
upper  end  of  each  of  the  horn-fibres  are  painfully  crushed  in 
their  greatly  diminished  tubes,  and  instead  of  being  organs  of 
secretion  and  the  most  delicate  touch,  they  are  now  scarcely  more 
than  instruments  of  torture  to  the  unfortunate  animal.  Not 
only  is  pain  or  uneasiness  experienced  during  progression,  but 
even  in  the  stable  the  horse  whose  soles  have  been  so  barbarously 
treated,  exhibits  tenderness  in  his  feet  by  resting  them,  and  if 
felt,  a  great  increase  of  temperature  will  be  perceived. 

Owing  to  the  secreting  apparatus  of  the  sole  being  deranged 
through  this  senseless  paring,  the  formation  of  new  horn  takes 
place  slowly,  and  it  is  not  until  a  certain  quantity  has  been 
provided  to  compensate  in  some  degree  for  that  removed,  that 
the  horse  begins  to  stand  easier,  and  travel  better.  Scarcely, 
however,  has  the  restorative  process  advanced  to  this  stage,  than 
it  is  time  for  him  to  be  reshod,  when  this  part  must  again 
submit  to  be  robbed  of  its  horn. 

The  sole  having  been  pared  too  thin  and  concave  leaves  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  hoof  standing  much  higher  than  if  it  had  been 


HORSE-SHOEING.  161 

left  intact,  and  apparently  too  long ;  so  the  wall  niust  be  still 
more  reduced.  This  is  done,  and  we  now  have  the  whole  ground- 
face  of  the  hoof  so  wasted  and  mutilated,  that  should  the  horse 
chance  to  lose  a  shoe  soon  after  being  shod,  the  impoverished  foot 
cannot  bear  the  rude  contact  of  the  ground  for  more  than  a  few 
yards,  and  the  poor  creature  is  lame  and  useless. 

The  tenderness  and  lameness  arising  from  this  mal-treatment 
are  usually  ascribed  to  everything  but  the  right  cause,  and  the 
most  popular  is  concussion.  To  avert  this  and  protect  the  de- 
fenceless sole,  a  most  absurd  shoe  is  required  ;  and,  still  more 
absurd,  the  natural  covering  is  attempted  to  be  replaced  by  a 
plate  of  leather,  interposed  between  the  ground  and  the  sole, 
and  which  is  made  to  retain  bundles  of  tow  steeped  in  tar  or 
some  pernicious  substance.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that 
this  artificial  covering  is  but  a  poor  substitute  for  that  which 
has  been  so  foolishly,  and  with  so  much  careful  labor,  cut  away; 
indeed,  in  several  respects  the  leather  sole,  even  when  only 
placed  between  the  wall  and  the  shoe,  and  not  over  the  entire 
surface,  is  very  objectionable. 

Seeing,  therefore,  the  natural  provision  existing  in  the  sole  of 
the  hoof  for  its  diminution  in  thickness,  when  necessary,  and 
knowing  that  the  intact  sole  is  the  best  safeguard  against  injury 
and  deterioration  to  this  region,  it  must  be  laid  down  as  a  rule 
in  farriery — and  from  which  there  must  be  no  departure — that 
this  part  is  not  to  be  interfered  with  on  any  pretence,  so 
long  as  the  foot  is  in  health  ;  not  even  the  flakes  are  to  be 
disturbed. 

By  adhering  to  this  rule,  the  horse  can  travel  safely  and  with 
ease  in  all  weathers  and  over  any  roads  immediately  after  shoe- 
ing ;  the  foot  is  maintained  in  a  healthy  condition  ;  the  sole  can 
sustain  its  share  of  the  weight,  and  thus  relieve  the  wall  of  the 
K 


1G2  HORSE-SHOEING. 

hoof ;  and  should   a   shoe   happen   to   be   lost,   the  animal   can 
journey  a  long  distance  -with  but  little  injury  to  the  organ. 

Another  of  the  many  advantages  derived  from  allowing  the 
sole  to  remain  in  its  natural  condition,  is  that  on  a  soft  surface 
the  hoof  will  not  sink  so  deeply  as  one  whose  sole  has  been 
hollowed  out  by  the  farrier,  neither  is  it  so  difficult  to  withdraw 
from  the  heavy  soil. 

Paring  the  Frog. — This  part  of  the  hoof  is  that  which,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  grooms  and  coachmen,  most  require  cutting,  "  to 
prevent  its  coming  on  the  ground  and  laming  the  horse ;"  and 
this  reason,  together  with  its  softer  texture,  causes  it  to  be  made 
the  sport  of  the  farrier's  relentless  knife.  It  is  artistically  and 
thoroughly  trimmed,  the  fine  elastic  horn  being  sliced  away, 
sometimes  even  to  the  quick,  and  in  its  sadly  reduced  form  it 
undergoes  the  same  changes  as  have  been  observed  in  the  pared 
sole.  No  wonder,  then,  that  it  cannot  bear  touching  the  ground 
any  more  than  the  sole.  Strip  the  skin  off  the  sole  of  a  man's 
foot  and  cause  him  to  travel  over  stony  or  pebbly  roads  !  "Would 
be  walk  comfortably  and  soundly  ? 

The  artistically  shaped  frog  soon  wastes,  becomes  diseased, 
and  at  length  appears  as  a  ragged,  foul-smelling  shred  of  horn, 
almost  imperceptible  between  the  narrow,  deformed  heels  of  the 
pared  foot. 

The  function  of  the  frog  in  the  animal  economy  is  one  of 
great  moment,  and  has  already  been  indicated.  It  is  emi- 
nently adapted  for  contact  with  the  ground,  and  in  this  re- 
sides its  most  important  office.  To  remove  it  from  the 
ground  and  deprive  it  of  its  horn,  is  at  once  to  destroy  its 
utility  and  its  structure,  and  withdraw  from  the  foot  ®ne  of 
its  most  essential  components.  The  longer  the  frog  is  left 
untouched  by  the  knife,  and  allowed  to  meet  the  ground, 
the  more  developed  it  becomes  ;  its  horn  grows  so  dense  and 
resisting,    yet    without   losing    its    special    properties,    that    it 


HORSE-SHOEING.  163 

braves  the  crushing  of  the  roughest  roads  without  suffering  in 
the  slightest  degree;  it  ensures  the  hoof  retaining  its  proper 
shape  at  the  heels ;  is  a  valuable  supporter  of  the  limb  and  foot 
while  the  animal  is  standing  or  moving;  and  is  an  active  agent, 
from  its  shape  and  texture,  in  preventing  slipping;  its  reduction 
and  removal  from  the  ground,  I  am  perfectly  convinced  from  long 
observation,  have  a  tendency,  directly  or  indirectly,  to  induce 
that  most  painful,  frequent,  and  incurable  malady — navicular 
disease,  as  well  as  other  affections  of  this  organ. 

The  farrier  should,  therefore,  leave  the  frog  also  untouched, 
unless  there  be  flakes  which  are  useless— though  this  is  extremely 
rare ;  then  these  ought  to  be  cut  off.  So  particular  am  I  in  this 
respect,  however,  and  so  well  aware  am  I  of  the  fondness  of  the 
workman  to  cut  into  this  part,  that  I  never  allow  any  frogs  to  be 
interfered  with  unless  I  am  present.  If  any  gravel  has  lodged 
beneath  the  flakes,  at  the  side,  or  in  the  cleft — which  is  most  un- 
frequent — this  is  removed  by  some  blunt  instrument. 

To  show  the  value  of  contact  with  the  ground:  when  a  horse 
with  a  diseased  frog  is  brought  to  me,  I  at  once  order  the  hoof  to 
be  so  prepared  or  shod  that  this  part  will  immediately  receive 
direct  pressure — in  a  brief  space  the  disease  disappears.  Cases  of 
what  grooms  call  "thrush,"  of  many  years' duration,  and  which 
had  defied  all  kinds  of  favorite  dressings,  have  been  cured,  and 
the  rotten,  wasted  frogs  have  become  sound  and  well  developed 
in  a  few  months. 

Opening-up  the  Heels.— Having  done  everything  possible  to  ruin 
the  sole  and  the  frog,  the  farrier  proceeds  to  complete  his  work 
by  opening-up  the  heels.  This  operation  is  quite  as  injurious— 
if  it  is  not  more  so — than  mutilating  the  sole  and  frog;  it  consist 
in  making  a  deep  cut  into  the  angle  of  the  wall  at  the  heel,  where 
it  becomes  bent  inward  to  form  the  bar.^In  the  unshod,  natural 


164  HORSE-SHOEING. 

state,  or  in  the  unmutilated  foot,  this  is  a  particularly  strong 
portion  of  the  hoof,  and  serves  a  very  useful  purpose,  its  utility 
being  mainly  owing  to  its  strength.  From  its  preventing  con- 
traction of  the  heels,  it  has  been  named  the  arc  boutant  or  "  but- 
tress "  of  the  foot  by  the  French  hippotomists. 

When  it  is  hacked  away  by  the  farrier's  knife,  the  wall  of  the 
hoof  is  not  only  considerably  weakened,  but  the  hoof  gradually 
contracts  toward  the  heels. 

Horse  dealers  and  grooms  are  the  chief  patrons  of  "  well- 
opened  "  heels,  as  they  give  the  foot  a  false  appearance  by  mak- 
ing it  look  wider  in  this  region. 

The  fashion  of  paring  the  sole  until  it  yields  to  the  pressure  of 
the  thumb  has  been  perpetuated  through  the  ignorance  of  those 
who  have  had  the  management  of  horses,  or  the  traditions  and 
routine  of  the  artisans  who  have  more  especially  to  attend  to  the 
requirements  of  the  hoofs  of  these  animals.  But  it  must  be  ob- 
served that  this  paring,  slicing  away  the  frog  and  opening  up  the 
heels  has  been  largely  due,  in  later  times,  to  the  false  notions 
propounded  by  some  writers  regarding  the  functions  of  the  foot : 
such  as  the  descent  of  the  sole,  the  inability  of  the  frog  to  sustain 
contact  with  the  ground,  and  the  expansion  of  the  back  parts  of 
the  hoof  every  time  the  weight  was  imposed  upon  it.  It  is  scarcely 
necessary  here  to  say  more  than  that  these  notions  are  at  least 
extremely  exaggerated,  and  that  the  practices  which  were  main- 
tained to  facilitate  these  supposed  functions  have  been  productive 
of  an  immense  amount  of  suffering  and  loss  of  animal  life. 

It  should  be  ever  most  strenuously  insisted  upon  that  the  whole 
lower  face  of  the  hoof,  except  the  border  of  the  wall,  must  be  left 
in  a  state  of  nature.  The  horn  of  the  sole,  frog  and  bars  has  an 
important  duty  to  fulfill  5  it  is  the  natural  protection  to  this  part 
of  the  hoof,  and  no  protection  of  iron,  leather  or  other  material 
is  half  so  efficacious  3  in  addition,   it  is  a  capital  agent  in  sus- 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


165 


taining  weight  and   in    keeping   the    whole    foot    healthy    and 
perfect  in  form. 

THE    SHOE. 

The  Ordinary  Shoe.— The  hoof  having  been  prepared  by  the 
farrier,  according  to  his  fancy,  for  the  reception  of  the  metal 
plate  which  is  to  garnish  it,  here  again  we  find  that  ignorance 
prevails  and  is  productive  of  inconvenience  and  injury.  "  Im- 
proved principles"  demand  that  a  particular-shaped  shoe  be 
applied  ;  no  matter  whether  the  animal  be  for  saddle,  harness,  or 
draught  purposes,  it  must  have  a  shoe  that  rests  only  on  the  margin 


Fig.  12. 

of  the  hoof— on  the  wall.  Therefore,  except  a  narrow  border  to 
correspond  with  this  margin,  the  upper  or  foot-face  of  the  shoe  is 
beveled  away,  so  as  to  leave  a  wide  space  between  it  and  the 
sole,  and  throw  all  the  weight  and  strain  on  the  outer  parts  of  the 
foot  (Fig.  11)  ;  in  addition  to  which  disadvantage,  this  space  is 
admirably  contrived  to  lodge  stones,  gravel,  hardened  mud  or 
snow,  and  in  heavy  ground  it  increases  the  suction  immensely. 
But,  as  will  be  easily  understood  from  the  manner  in  which  the 
under-surface  of  the  foot  has  been  treated,  this  beveling  is 
rendered  an  absolute  necessity  if  the  horse  is  to  be  preserved 
from  immediate  lameness.  The  sole  has  been  pared  so  thin  that, 
so  far  from  its  being  able  to  withstand  a  tolerably  large  amount 


106  HORSE-SHOEING. 

of  pressure  around  its  margin — particularly  toward  the  toe — it 
must  be  most  carefully  preserved,  not  only  from  contact  with  the 
shoe,  but  also  with  the  ground.  This  necessitates  a  wide  surface 
of  metal,  which  increases  the  weight  of  the  shoe,  making  it 
clumsier  to  wear,  and  affords  a  large  under  or  ground  surface  for 
slipping.  And  even  with  a  shoe  of  such  dimensions  the  creature 
cannot  travel  at  ease  on  stony  roads,  as  the  least  pressure  of  a 
stone  on  the  tender  sole  causes  him  to  limp  ;  and  if  the  stone 
lodges  in  the  space  between  shoe  and  sole,  serious  injury  is 
likely  to  be  done. 

Weight. — In  addition  to  the  beveling  and  the  width,  the  shoe  in 
ordinary  use  has  several  other  glaring  defects.  One  of  these  is 
generally  its  excessive  weight ;  it  contains  an  amount  of  iron  far 
greater  than  is  necessary  to  protect  the  hoof  from  the  effects  of 
wear.  One  reason  alleged  for  the  employment  of  these  cumbrous 
masses  of  iron  attached  to  the  ends  of  a  horse's  limbs  is  that  they 
prevent  concussion  to  the  foot.  This  any  reasonable  person  will 
at  once  perceive  is  a  manifest  absurdity.  The  hoof  by  its  light- 
ness, its  texture,  and  the  wonderful  arrangement  of  its  component 
parts,  is  well  adapted  to  avert  concussion.  An  inelastic,  heavy 
lump  of  iron  firmly  attached  to  it,  and  coming  into  forcible 
collision  with  the  ground  at  every  step,  must  surely  be  more 
likely  to  increase  this  concussion  than  diminish  it. 

There  can  be  no  difficulty,  I  imagine,  in  estimating  the  injury 
inflicted  by  unnecessarily  heavy  shoes.  Nature  formed  the  lower 
extremity  of  the  limb  with  a  view  to  lightness,  no  less  than  to 
other  iurportant  ends.  The  hoof-bone  is  quite  porous  and  open  in 
texture,  to  diminish  its  ponderosity  without  detracting  from  its 
size  or  stability ;  while  the  hoof  itself  is,  as  we  have  just  noticed, 
remarkable  for  the  manner  in  which  its  material  is  arranged  with 
a  special  intention  to   confer  light-footedness  upon  the  animal. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  167 

The  reason  for  this  diminution  in  weight,  while  it  is  coincident 
with  increase  in  bulk,  is  to  be  found  iu  the  fact  that  the  muscles 
principally  concerned  in  moving  the  limb— swinging,  straighten- 
ing, and  bending  it  backward  and  forward — are  all  situated 
above  the  knee  or  hock.  The  moving  power  is  at  one  end  of  a 
•comparatively  long  lever  with  two  arms,  while  the  weight  to  be 
moved  is  at  the  other  extremity.  The  arm  of  the  lever  to  which 
the  power  is  applied  is  very  short,  so  that  though  rapidity  is 
gained,  more  power  is  lost,  and  it  is  palpable  that  every  ad- 
ditional ounce  added  to  the  foot  must  be  nearly,  if  not  more  than 
•eepial  to  a  pound  at  the  shoulder. 

In  shoeing,  this  important  consideration  has  been  strangely 
overlooked;  and  yet  we  cannot  forget  that  it  has  a  great  in- 
fluence on  the  wear  of,  not  only  the  shoe,  but  also  the  muscles, 
tendons,  ligaments  and  joints,  and  even,  indirectly,  of  the 
entire  animal.  "  If,  at  the  termination  of  a  day's  work,"  says 
an  eminent  French  veterinary  professor,  "  we  calculate  the 
weight  represented  by  the  mass  of  iron  in  the  heavy  shoes  a 
horse  is  condemned  to  carry  at  each  step,  we  shall  arrive 
at  a  formidable  array  of  figures,  and  in  this  way  be  able  to 
estimate  the  amount  of  force  uselessly  expended  by  the  ani- 
mal in  raising  the  shoes  that  overload  his  feet.  The  calcu- 
lation I  have  made  possesses  an  eloquence  that  dispenses 
with  very  long  commentaries.  Suppose  that  the  weight  of  a  shoe 
is  two  pounds,  it  is  not  excessive  to  admit  that  a  horse  trots  at 
the  rate  of  one  step  every  second,  or  sixty  steps  a  minute.  In  a 
minute,  then,  the  limb  of  a  horse  whose  foot  carries  two  pounds 
makes  efforts  sufficient  to  raise  a  weight  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  pounds.  For  the  four  limbs,  this  weight  in  a  minute  is 
represented  by  120x1=480  pounds  ;  for  the  four  feet  during  an 
hour,  the  weight  is  28,800  pounds  ;  and  for  four  hours,  the  mean 
duration   of  a   day's  work  in  the  French  omnibuses,  the  total 


168  HORSE-SHOEING. 

amount  of  weight  raised  has  reached  the  enormous  figure  of 
115,200  pounds.  But  the  movement  communicated  to  these 
115,200  pounds  represents  an  expenditure  of  the  power  employed 
by  the  motor  without  any  useful  result ;  and  as  the  motor  is  a 
living  one,  this  expenditure  of  strength  represents  an  exhaustion, 
or,  if  you  like  it  better,  a  degree  of  fatigue  proportioned  to  the 
effort  necessary  for  its  manifestation." 

This  question  of  weight  is  one  of  no  small  moment  to  the 
well-being  and  utility  of  the  horse,  and  therefore  demands  par- 
ticular attention.  Nature,  in  constructing  the  animal  machine, 
and  enduing  it  with  adequate  power  to  sustain  the  ordinary  re- 
quirements of  organization,  and  even  to  meet  certain  extra- 
ordinary demands,  could  scarcely  have  been  expected  to  provide 
the  large  additional  amount  of  energy  necessary  to  swing  several 
ounces,  or  even  pounds,  attached  to  the  lower  extremity  of  the 
limb.  A  horse  shod  with  a  two-pound  shoe  to  each  foot,  travel- 
ing at  the  rate  of  sixty  steps  in  a  minute  for  a  period  of  four 
hours,  as  has  been  stated  above,  carries  nearly  fifty-two  tons. 
This  weight,  too,  as  has  been  stated,  is  most  disadvantageously 
placed  at  the  end  of  the  long  arm  of  the  lever.  It  must  be 
remembered,  also,  that  a  two-pound  shoe  is  a  very  moderate 
affair  when  compared  with  many  that  are  worn  every  day  in  town 
and  country,  even  by  horses  employed  in  fast  work. 

Not  only  does  an  ivnnecessarily  heavy  shoe  fatigue  and 
wear  out  the  limbs  sooner  than  a  light  one,  but  the  fatigue 
it  induces  causes  it  to  be  less  durable,  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  of  iron.  This  is  accounted  for  by  the  manner  in 
which  the  fatigued  limbs  drag  their  heavy  load  along  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  Heavy  shoes  also  require  more  and 
larger   nails   to   attach  them  securely  to  the  hoof,  and  this  in 


HORSE-SHOEING.  16£> 

itself  is   an  evil  of  no  trifling  magnitude,  as  we  shall  see  pre- 
sently. 

The  shoe,  besides  being  heavy,  may  offer  other  serious  defects. 
It  may  be  very  uneven  on  its  upper  bearing  surface-that  on 
which  the  hoof  rests  ;  it  may  have  too  many  clips,  and  these  not 
well  formed  or  situated  ;  its  ground  surface  may  be  unequal  ;  or 
the  holes  for  the  nails  may  be  badly  placed,  and  improperly 
stamped. 

An  uneven  upper  surface  is  apt  to  produce  lameness,  from 
the  undue  pressure  it  occasions  on  limited  parts  of  the  hoof,  and 
through  these  to  the  corresponding  living  textures  ;  or  it  may 
cause  the  wall  of  the  hoof  to  split,  etc. 

Nails  badly  placed  and  improperly  stamped  are  a  prolific  source 
of  injury  to  the  foot,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  nial-forined  or 
wrongly-situated  clips;  and  much  evil  results  from  the  ground- 
face  of  the  shoe  being  higher  at  one  part  than  another.  This 
inequality  is  in  nearly  every  case  due  to  the  presence  of  what  are 
termed  "  calkins"  at  the  extremities  of  the  branches  of  the  shoe  ; 
or  to  one  side  of  the  plate  being  thicker  than  the  other. 

Caifcms.-Calkins  are  injurious  to  the  limb  in  proportion  to 
their  height.  When  smallest  they  are  an  evil,  as  they  have  a 
tendency,  in  raising  the  back  part  of  the  foot  higher  than  the 
front,  to  alter  the  natural  direction  of  the  limb,  and  throw  undue 
strain  on  the  fore  part.  Intended  to  prevent  slipping,  their  use 
in  this  respect  is  but  temporary,  unless  they  are  made  high  and 
thick;  when  their  unfavorable  influence  on  the  limb  and  foot  is 
increased.  Added  to  this,  from  their  throwing  so  much  of  the 
weight  and  strain  on  the  front  of  the  foot,  the  shoe  is  more 
rapidly  worn  away  at  the  toe;  so  its  thickness  there  must  be 
oreater,  and  the  shoe  in  consequence  heavier,  or  the  animal  will 
have  to  be  more  frequently  shod.  From  their  only  lasting  for  a 
limited  period,  the  horse,  at  first  inclined  to  rely  on  them   to 


170  HORSE-SHOEING. 

preserve  his  footing  on  slippery  roads,  becomes  timid  and  unsafe 
when  they  are  worn  down  to  the  surface  of  the  shoe.  By  their 
form,  and  their  projecting  so  much  beyond  the  level  of  the  plate, 
they  jar  the  limb ;  expose  it  to  twists  and  treads  sometimes  of  a 
grave  character;  induce  shortening  of  the  flexor  tendons;  and 
until  they  have  been  considerably  reduced,  interfere  with  the 
animal's  action.  They  are  also  liable  to  cause  the  shoe  to  be  torn 
off,  by  getting  caught  between  paving-stones ;  while  they  produce 
severe  lacerations,  should  the  horse  wearing  them  happen  to  kick 
another  animal.  This  is  more  particularly  observed  among  army 
horses  which  have  calkins  on  their  hind  shoes — and  especially 
when  in  camp  or  picketed.  They  also  throw  more  strain  upon 
the  nails  and  the  hoof  itself.  Neither  must  it  be  forgotten 
that  they  remove  the  frog  from  contact  with  the  ground. 

One  side  of  the  shoe  being  higher  than  the  other  produces  the 
same  results  as  follow  when  the  hoof  is  unequal  in  this  respect. 
The  hind  limb  is  more  exposed  to  this  evil  than  the  fore  one,  from 
calkins  being  most  frequently  added  to  the  hind  shoes,  and  from 
the  fashion  of  having  the  inner  branch  thickened,  but  not  suffi- 
cient to  compensate  for  the  height  of  the  calkin  on  the  outer  heel. 
This  inequality  is  productive  of  injury  to  the  fetlock  and  hock 
joints,  and  is  doubtless  not  unfrequently  the  cause  of  that  for- 
midable disease  of  the  latter — spavin. 

But  even  if  the  farrier  has  reason  to  apply  shoes  whose  ground- 
surface  is  not  studded  with  calkins  or  any  other  kind  of  "  catch," 
he,  in  nearly  every  case  of  ordinary  wear,  puts  on  one  which  has 
the  whole  of  this  surface  perfectly  plane,  and  not  relieved  through- 
out its  length  or  width  by  any  thing,  except  perhaps  the  groove 
around  its  outer  circumference,  in  which  the  nail-holes  are  placed. 
This  wide,  smooth  surface  is  evidently  adapted  to  facilitate  slip- 


HORSE-SHOEING.  171 

ping  on  smooth  pavements,  or  even  on  grass  or  clay  land. 

Size.— Besides  constructing  the  shoe  of  a  faulty  shape,  a  very 
common  practice  is  to  apply  one  smaller  than  the  actual  contour 
of  the  ground-surface  of  the  hoof.  This  is  a  grave  error,  and  in 
all  probability  arises  from  the  desire  to  make  the  horse's  foot 
look  neat,  and  to  produce  fine  work;  just  as  the  maker  of  shoes 
for  the  human  foot  thinks  it  the  perfection  of  workmanship  to 
squeeze  it  into  the  smallest  possible  space.  In  the  horse,  however, 
small  shoes  are  more  fruitful  of  lameness  and  chronic  deformity 
than  even  the  worst-shaped  cramped  coverings  can  be  for  the 
human  organ,  as  the  horse  is  compelled  to  wear  his  tight  plates 
day  and  night,  and  must  accomplish  all  kinds  of  severe  labor  in 
them  ;  while  man  can  relieve  himself  of  his  torturing,  uncom- 
fortable boots  for  at  least  some  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four. 

We  shall  allude  to  the  evils  of  this  stupid  practice  hereafter, 
in  the  meantime  it  may  be  sufficient  to  point  out,  that  in  select- 
ing and  supplying  a  shoe  smaller  than  the  circumference  of  the 
hoof,  we  are  depriving  the  foot  and  limb  of  a  portion  of  their 
stability  and  weight-bearing  surface.  The  limb  is,  in  reality,  a 
column  of  support  for  the  body,  and  the  hoof  is  the  base  of  this 
column.  This  base  is  very  much  wider  than  any  other  portion, 
and  only  commences  at  the  foot,  which  gradually  widens  towards 
the  ground,  so  as  to  make  it  still  more  expanded  and  efficient. 
To  diminish  this  is  to  frustrate  Nature's  mode  of  affording 
security  and  ease  to  the  limb,  and  consequently  to  do  it  harm. 

The  above  are  only  some  of  the  more  prominent  evils  attendant 
on  the  present  method  ot  constructing  and  shaping  the  horse's 
shoe  ;  others,  such  as  making  it  of  bad  material,  altogether  unlike 
the  outline  of  the  hoof,  etc.,  we  will  glance  at  presently.  We 
have  only  now  to  consider  what  has  been  for  very  many  years  the 
aim  of  those  who,  overlooking  the  real  injury  done  to  the  foot  by 
the  barbarous  fashion  of  paring  and  rasping,  imagined  the  chief, 


172  HORSE-SHOEING. 

if  not  the  sole,  cause  of  lameness  and  inefficiency  arose  from  the 
faulty  character  of  the  protection  applied  to  it,  and  have  sought 
to  avert  these  by  devising  various  kinds  of  shoes,  or  other 
methods  of  arming  the  hoof. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say,  that  from  their  neglecting,  or 
being  unconscious  of  the  harm  that  resulted  from  the  mal- 
practices already  indicated,  their  so-called  improvements  have 
been  impotent  for  good,  and  have  soon  been  consigned  to  for- 
getf  ulness. 

Objects  to  be  Attained. — "We  have  stated  what  were  the  objects  to 
be  attained  when  shoeing  was  first  introduced.  To  prevent  undue 
wear  of  the  horn,  and  at  the  same  time  to  secure  a  good  foothold 
for  the  horse,  appear  to  have  been  all  that  was  considered  essen- 
tial in  the  infancy  of  the  art  of  farriery.  And  it  must  be 
conceded  that,  even  now,  these  are  the  primary  advantages  to  be 
achieved  in  constructing  a  horse-shoe,  no  matter  what  kind  of 
task  the  horse  that  wears  it  may  be  required  to  accomplish. 

There  can  scarcely  be  a  doubt  that  any  thing  more  simple  and 
efficient,  and  at  the  same  time  less  expensive,  than  a  well-devised 
iron  shoe,  cannot  at  present  be  produced ;  nor  can  the  compara- 
tively safe  and  ready  method  of  attaching  it  by  nails  be  super- 
seded by  any  other  means  that  we  are  acquainted  with.  All 
teutatives  in  this  direction  have  failed,  either  because  of  their 
inefficiency  or  greater  expense. 

Simplicity,  cheapness,  durability,  and  perfect  adaptability  to 
various  requirements,  are  the  essentials  to  be  obtained  in  horse- 
shoes ;  and  if  one  or  more  of  these  is  absent  in  any  particular 
pattern,  it  can  never  be  generally  adopted,  and  is  certain  to  have 
but  brief  success. 

The  effects  of  applying  an  iron  defence  to  the  horse's  foot,  and 
securing  it  to  the  hoof  by  means  of  nails,  are  no  doubt  a  source 
of    injury   to   that    organ ;     and    even    with   every   care   a   few 


HORSE-SHOEING.  173 

of  them  are  unavoidable ;  but  they  are  increased  in  number  and 
heightened  in  intensity  when  the  shoe  is  badly  constructed 
and  attached;  whereas,  by  the  exercise  of  a  little  common- 
sense  and  observation,  those  which  are  not  to  be  avoided  may 
be  mitigated. 

The  foot,  as  has  been  observed,  is  a  perfect  organ,  formed  in 
harmony  with  the  other  parts  of  the  limbs  to  meet  every  require- 
ment in  bearing  weight  and  aiding  movement. 

The  hoof,  as  an  integral  portion  of  the  foot,  possesses  these 
qualities  to  a  high  degree,  and,  but  for  its  inability  to  withstand 
incessant  wear,  would  need  no  assistance  from  man,  except 
perhaps  a  little  trimming  when  it  became  over-grown  or  irregu- 
lar. Its  lower  margin— hard,  narrow,  and  projecting  slightly 
beyond  the  sole— is  well  adapted  to  support  weight,  withstand 
wear,  and  retain  a  hold  of  the  ground ;  the  concave  sole,  in 
addition  to  its  assisting  the  margin  to  support  weight  and  wear, 
also  lends  its  aid  in  securing  a  foothold  by  its  hollow  surface  ; 
while  the  angle  of  the  wall  at  each  heel— the  <c  buttress"— would 
appear  to  be  specially  designed  to  afford  a  most  effective  check 
to  the  sliding  forward  of  the  foot  as  the  animal  suddenly  pulls  up 
when  moving  at  a  fast  pace  on  level  ground,  or  attempts  to  stop 
or  diminish  his  descent  on  a  slippery  declivity. 

Those  who  study  the  functions  of  the  animal  body,  and  who 
have  to  restore  these  when  deranged,  well  know  that  in  their 
attempts  to  keep  them  in  a  normal  condition  or  to  bring  them 
back  to  a  healthy  •  state,  they  must  attend  to  the  laws  which 
govern  these  functions,  and  follow  the  indications  of  nature. 
Therefore  I  have  asked  myself  if  it  is  possible  to  construct  a  shoe 
which,  while  cheapily  and  easily  manufactured  by  any  ordinary 
farrier,  will  answer  the  same  ends  as  the  lower  surface  of  the  foot 
does  in  a  natural  state,  at  the  same  time  protecting  and  support- 
ing it,  without  interfering  to   any  appreciable  extent  with  the 


174  HORSE-SHOEING. 

healthy  functions  of  the  organ.  We  have  seen  that  the  ordinary 
shoe  is  extremely  imperfect,  if  it  is  not  diametrically  opposite  to 
what  we  should  consider  as  calculated  to  protect  the  foot,  secure 
a  good  foothold,  and  interfere  but  little  with  its  functions.  In- 
stead of  supporting  the  sole  at  its  strongest  part,  and  thus 
relieving  the  wall  from  much  of  the  strain,  it  rests  on  the  wall 
alone ;  this  is  contrary  to  natural  indications.  The  wide  space 
between  sole  and  shoe  affords  lodgment  to  foreign  bodies  which, 
when  the  sole  is  artistically  mutilated,  may  do  grievous  harm, 
and  it  also  increase*  suction  in  soft  ground ;  the  hoof  shows 
nothing  of  this  kind.  Then,  again :  the  ground-face  of  the  shoe 
is  a  wide  and  smooth  plane  which,  instead  of  preventing  slipping, 
conduces  to  it ;  or  thickened  portions  project  above  this  face, 
which  disturb  the  balance  and  injure  the  limb,  while  they  are 
only  of  very  temporary  and  questionable  service  in  insuring  a 
firm  footing. 

In  the  unshod  hoof  we  see  nothing  of  this,  and  we  are  brought 
to  the  conclusion,  which  daily  experience  amply  confirms,  that 
in  addition  to  the  ordinary  management  of  the  hoof  being  utterly 
erroneous ,  the  shoe  usually  applied  to  it  is  very  far  from  what 
it  ought  to  be. 

Pattern  of  Shoe  Recommended. — If  the  sole  of  the  hoof  has 
not  been  mutilated  by  the  knife,  it  does  not  require  to 
be  covered  by  the  shoe,  as  Nature  has  furnished  an  infi- 
nitely better  protection.  Wide-surface  shoes  can  therefore 
be  at  once  dispensed  with,  and  a  narrow  shoe,  made  of  the 
very  best  and  toughest  iron,  adapted  for  traveling  on  slip- 
pery roads,  and  for  aiding  foot  and  limb,  and  sufficient  to 
withstand  wear  for  four  or  five  weeks,  is  all  that  is  required. 
We  will  therefore  conclude  that  the  upper  or  foot  surface 
should  be  the  whole  width  of  the  shoe,  and  plane — not  bevelled 
— for  we  have  seen  that  the  sole  was  destined,  particularly 
at  this   junction   with   the    wall   in    front,    to   sustain  weight. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  175 

We  also  know  that  it  is  advantageous  to  the  whole  foot  and  limb 
to  allow  the  sole  as  wide  and  general  a  bearing  as  possible ;  so 
that  one  part  may  relieve  the  other— the  sole  coming  to  the  aid 
of  the  wall,  and  the  frog  interposing  to  share  the  fatigue  imposed 
upon  both,  as  well  as  to  relieve  the  strain  on  the  hinder  parts  of 
the  foot,  flexor  tendons  and  limb,  and  keep  a  firm  grasp  of  the 
ground  by  its  elastic  and  adhesive  properties. 

The  shoe  applied  to  the  foot,  then,  should  have  its  hoof  surface 
flat,  in  order  that  it  may  sustain  the  wall  and  as  much  of  this 
strong  portion  of  the  sole  as  its  width  permits.  This  is  contrary 
to  the  usual  practice,  which  on]^  allows  the  wall  to  rest  on  a 
narrow  surface,  and  bevels  off  the  remainder  of  the  shoe  to 
prevent  contact  with  the  sole.  Many  years'  experience  of  this 
plane  foot-surfaced  shoe  in  various  regions  of  the  globe,  and  on 
feet  of  every  kind  and  quality,  have  proved  the  soundness  of  this 
view.  The  foot  is  brought  as  near  to  a  state  of  nature  when  the 
greater  part  of  its  plantar  surface  supports  the  weight  of  the 
body,  as  man  can  hope  to  achieve  while  submitting  the  horse  to 
an  artificial  existence. 

A  light  thin  shoe  is  always  preferable  to  a  heavy  thick  one  ;  as 
the  narrowness  of  the  metal  insures  a  good  foothold— in  this 
respect  imitating  the  wall— while  its  thinness  brings  the  sole, 
frog  and  bars  in  closer  approximation  to  the  ground. 

It  is  impossible  to  devise  a  shoe  that  will  successfully  meet 
every  requirement.  The  heavy  draught-horse,  doomed  to  bring 
into  play  every  muscle  in  endeavoring  to  move  and  drag  along  an 
enormous  load,  must  have  his  feet  differently  armed  to  the  hunter 
or  race-horse,  with  which  speed  is  the  chief  requisite.  Taking 
into  account  the  different  character  of  the  horny  textures,  it  is- 
none  the  less  true,  however,  that  the  same  rule  holds  good  in  all 


176  HORSE-SHOEING. 

with,  regard  to  the  sole  and  frog-sustaining  weight,  though  in  the 
slow- moving  animal  it  is  of  less  importance,  perhaps,  than  in  the 
lighter  and  more  fleet  one.  The  massive  draught  horse  requires 
toe  and  heel  projections  or  ' c  catches"  on  the  ground  surface  of 
the  shoes,  to  economise  his  locomotive  powers  and  to  aid  his 
powerful  efforts  ;  though  his  hoofs  none  the  less  require  the 
observance  of  those  conservative  principles  which  have  been  so 
strongly  insisted  upon,  but  which  are  so  very  seldom  applied. 

To  give  the  greatest  amount  of  strength  and  foothold  to  the 
shoes  of  the  heavy  draught  horse,  with  the  least  amount  of 
weight,  should  be  an  object  always  kept  in  view  in  making  them. 
But,  with  this  animal,  the  principal  object  is  the  preservation  of 
the  wall  of  the  hoof  in  order  tMfct  it  may  remain  sound  and  strong 
for  the  retention  of  the  nails  ;  to  assist  in  effecting  this,  the  sole 
and  frog  must  be  preserved  intact. 

The  form  of  the  shoe  in  all  cases  should  in  outline  resemble  the 
shape  of  the  ground  surface  of  the  hoof.  It  has  been  decided  that 
its  upper  surface  must  be  flat  from  the  outer  to  the  inner  margin. 
For  horses  other  than  those  of  heavy  draught,  its  width  will  of 
course  vary  ;  but  it  is  an  advantage  to  have  it  as  narrow  as  is 
compatible,  in  relation  to  its  thickness,  with  the  amount  of  wear 
required  from  it. 

The  ground-face  of  the  shoe  is  the  next  point  for  consideration. 
This  should  always  be,  if  possible,  parallel  with  its  upper  face ; 
that  is,  the  shoe  ought  to  be  plane  on  both  surfaces,  and  of  the 
same  thickness  on  both  sides,  not  only  in  the  fore,  but  also  the 
hind  shoes.  This  guarantees  the  foot  and  limb  being  kept  in  a 
natural  position.  What  are  termed  "  calkins"  on  one  or  both 
heels  are  very  objectionable,  for  the  simple  reason  that,  as  has 
been  stated,  they  raise  the  back  part  of  the  foot  higher  than 
the  front,  and  throw  the  limb  forward  ;  unless  the  hoof 
meets     the     ground    in     its    natural    direction,    some    portion 


HORSE-SHOEING.  177 

of  the  leg  or  foot  will  be   certain  to   suffer.      Therefore,    what- 
ever device   may  be  employed    to  prevent  slipping   and  secure 
a  hold  on   the   ground   should  not    interfere   with   the   natural 
direction  of  the  limb  or  foot.     If  calkins  are  deemed  necessary, 
then  the  front  part  of  the  shoe  ought  to  be  raised  to  a  correspond- 
ing height  either  by  thickening  its  substance  or  adding  a  toe- 
piece.     In  the  majority  of  cases,  however,  the  use  of  these  pro- 
jections is  problematical,  and  it  is  certain  that  hundreds  of  horses 
travel  as  safely  without  them  as  with  them.     In  many  of  our 
large  towns   and  cities  they  are  but  little  employed,  and  with 
advantage   to  the  legs   and  feet.     For   many  years    I   have  not 
allowed  a  calkin  to  be  worn  on  the  shoe  of  any  of  the  horses  in 
my  charge,  and  no  complaints  of  slipping  or  insecure  footing  have 
ever  been  made,  nor  have   any  reports  of   horses  falling  down 
either  on  slippery  turf  or  the  smooth  surface  of  paved  streets, 
from  the  absence  of  calkins,  ever  reached  me.     Having  studied 
the  subject  of  farriery  practically  for  several  years,  in  the  large 
cities  of  Glasgow  and  Manchester  before  entering  the  army,  and 
having    during    fifteen    years'    service  been   attached  to  those 
branches  in  which  light  or  riding-horses  are  employed,  my  op- 
portunities for  observation  have  been  extensive.     These  oppor- 
tunities have  led  me  to  form  the  opinion  just   given  as  to  the 
value  of  calkins.     While  stationed  with  my  regiment  in  Edin- 
burgh in  1864-65,  I  obtained  permission  to  dispense  with  calkins 
on  the  hind-shoes  (they  are  not  worn  on  the  fore-shoes  of  cavalry- 
horses),  and  though  the  orderly  and  other  diities  were  somewhat 
heavy  on  the  streets  of  that  city— which  are  perhaps  the  most 
slippery  in  Britain— no  accident  occurred. 

For  more  than  three  years  I  have  been  stationed  in  a  large 
garrison  town  in  the  south  of  England  with  nearly  three  hundred 
horses— most  of  which  are  draught— in  my  charge.     The  greater 

L 


178  HORSE-SHOEING. 

portion  of  these  animals  are  employed  several  hours  every  day~ 
conveying  heavy  loads  np  and  down  very  badly-made  and  exces- 
sively-steep roads ;  no  calkins  or  toe-pieces  are  worn,  no  slipping* 
is  ever  observed,  while  the  sprains  and  injuries  arising  from  the 
use  of  calkins  are  unknown. 

This  immunity  I  attribute  not  alone  to  the  absence  of  these 
projections,  but  to  the  care  always  taken  to  keep  the  hoofs  healthy, 
properly  adjusted,  and  strong,  with  the  frogs  resting  as  much  as 
possible  on  the  ground. 

In  attempting  to  prevent  slipping,  and  to  afford  a  firm  hold  of 
the  ground,  without  having  recourse  to  calkins,  a  great  object  is 
to  diminish  the  wide  surface  of  metal  of  the  shoe,  without  inter- 
fering, as  little  as  possible,  with  its  resistance  to  wear.  The 
simplest  method  of  doing  this  is  to  merely  change  the  bevel  on 
the  foot-surface  of  the  ordinary  shoe  to  its  ground-surface — 
making  what  is  now  concave,  flat,  and  what  is  now  the  flat,  slip- 
pery ground-surface,  concave.  The  effect  is  almost  magical  in  the 
security  it  gives  the  animal  during  progression,  and  is  best  exem- 
plified in  the  case  of  the  hunter,  which  is  usually  shod  with  shoes 
of  this  description.  Here,  again,  we  are  only  imitating  Nature 
by  copying  the  concavity  of  the  sole.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
whatever  as  to  the  advantages  to  be  gained  by  using  such  shoes. 
The  sole  is  pretty  well  supported  as  well  as  the  whole  of  the  wall, 
by  the  wider  surface  of  the  metal  above,  while  the  narrow  surface 
toward  the  ground  affords  security  of  tread. 

For  general  purposes  this  is  an  excellent  form  of  shoe,  but  to 
make  it  still  more  efficient  I  devised  a  modification  of  it  some 
years  ago,  which  is  an  exact  reproduction  in  iron  of  the  ground- 
surface  of  this  part  of  the  hoof  ;  it  has  been  employed  on  the  road 
and  in  the  field  with  most  satisfactory  results  both  on  the  fore  and 
hind  feet. 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


179 


In  this  shoe  (Fig.  13),  instead  of  the  bevel  on  the  ground- 
surface  gradually  becoming  shallower  as  it  approaches  the  heels, 
as  in  the  ordinary  hunting  shoe,  it  becomes  deeper,  until,  within 
an  inch  or  two  of  the  extremity  of  the  branch,  it  has  cut  down 
through  the  thickness  of  the  inner  border ;  it  then  abruptly 
ceases,  leaving  a  sharp  catch  on  each  side,  that,  like  the  in- 
flexion of  the  wall  at  this  part  (Fig.  5,  d  d),  affords  an  excellent 


Fig   13. 

grip,  which  moreover  lasts  until  the  shoe  is  quite  worn  out. 
With  a  modification  of  this  kind,  three  important  objects  are 
secured :  1.  The  plane  upper  surface,  resting  flat  and  solidly  on 
the  crust  and  unpared  sole,  leaves  no  space  in  which  foreign 
"bodies — as  clay,  stones,  or  gravel — may  lodge,  and  in  heavy 
ground  suction  is  lessened.  2.  The  metal  is  only  removed  from 
the  parts  where  it  can  be  best  spared,  and  where  there  is  least 
wear  ;  consequently  the  shoe  is  lightened  without  being  weakened. 
3.  The  level  border  and  extremities  of  the  branches  afford  an 
equal  bearing  for  the  foot,  while  the  gradually  deepening  bevel, 
with  its  sudden  check,  secures  a  permanent  and  powerful  catch- 
ing point  like  that  at  the  angle  of  the  wall. 


The  shoe  is  easily  made  by  any  farrier,  differing,  as  it  does,  so 
little  from  the  ordinary  hunting-shoe,  and  the  shape  is  the  same 
for   the   fore  as    the   hind  shoe,   except  that  the  former  is,  of 


180 


HORSE-SHOEING . 


course,  more  circular  than  the   latter,  to  correspond    with    the 
shape  of  the  hoof.     • 

To  make  its  fabrication  as  simple,  speedy,  and  easy  as  the 
ordinary  shoe,  I  have  made  it  in  two  moulds  or  (i  cresses,"  which 
fit  into  the  anvil.  These  moulds  are  of  iron  faced  with  steel  ; 
one  (Fig.  14)  has  two  wide,  slightly  curved  transverse  grooves  cut 
on  its  surface,  the  one  side  of  each  being  shallower  than  the 
other ;  in  these  each  branch  of  the  shoe  is  moulded.  The  other 
cress  (Fig.  15)  has  also  two  indentations  so  formed  as  to  cut  the 
check  or  "  sunk  calkin."  With  these  moulds,  the  shoe  is  as  easily 
and  quickly  made  as  the  common  one,  and  requires  but  little 
finishing.  The  moulds  may  be  of  three  sizes,  to  suit  different- 
sized  feet  and  different  kinds  of  work,  and  can  be  forged  by  any 
ordinary  blacksmith  or  farrier. 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15. 


This  shoe  has  been  somewhat  extensively  tried  by  carriage 
and  saddle  horses,  and  with  the  very  best  results.  For  hunting 
or  cavalry  purposes  it  is  excallent,  particularly  on  slippery  grass- 
land, the  sharp  point  of  the  catch  biting  the  surface  of  the 
ground  most  effectively. 

Clips. — For  carriage  and  saddle-horses  and  hunters,  each 
fore  and  hind  shoe  should  have  a  clip  drawn  up  at  the  middle 
of  the  toe,  except  in  special  cases,  as  when  the  horse  over- 
reaches, or,  from  being  required  to  jump,  or  any  other  cause, 
is  likely  to  strike   any   part   of  the  back   of  the  fore-legs ;   in 


HORSE-SHOEING  181 

which  case,  the  hind  shoes  require  to  have  a  clip  at  each  side  of 
the  toe— none  in  the  middle— the  hoof  in  front  being  allowed  to 
project  beyond  the  shoe.  The  latter  should  have  all  sharp  edges 
carefully  removed  at  this  part,  particularly  in  the  case  of 
hunters. 

Clips,  when  judiciously  placed,  are  of  service  in  retaining  the 
shoe,  and  so  permitting  the  number  of  nails  to  be  diminished ; 
but,  as  a  rule,  they  should  be  as  few  as  possible,  as  they  are 
sometimes  a  source  of  injury  to  the  hoof,  particularly  if  they  are 
situated  in  too  close  proximity  to  the  nails. 

Varieties  of  Shoes.— Various  forms  of  shoes  have  been  from 
time  to  time  proposed  with  a  view  to  prevent  slipping,  but  only 
those  which  have  had  their  ground-surface  grooved,  beveled,  or 
"toothed,"  have  met  with  any  success.  In  recent  times,  an 
American  shoe— the  "  Goodenough  "—  has  had  wonderful  qualities 
claimed  for  it  in  this  respect.  It  differs  but  little  from  the 
common  hunting  shoe.  It  has  several  trivial  projections  cut  on 
the  outer  margin  of  its  lower  surface,  which  may  prevent  slipping 
so  long  as  they  last ;  but  in  a  very  short  time  they  are  worn 
away,  and  then  it  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  beyond  the 
ordinary  hunting  shoe.     The  shoe  is  made  by  machinery. 

Mr.  Gray,  of  the  Mowbray  Works,  Sheffield,  has  introduced 
machine-made  shoes  faced  with  steel,  and  grooved  into  two  or 
more  sharp  ridges  on  their  ground  surface.  When  fitted,  these 
shoes  are  tempered;  consequently  they  are  harder  than  iron, 
should  wear  for  a  longer  period,  and  may  thus  be  made  lighter. 
If  their  hardness  does  not  cause  them  to  be  more  slippery  on 
smooth  pavement,  when  the  ridges  have  become  somewhat  worn, 
than  the  iron  shoe,  they  should  be  an  improvement,  and  prove 
cheaper  than  those  commonly  in  use. 

More  recently,  grooved  and  surfaee-er.t  rolled  iron  bars  have 


182  HORSE-SHOEING. 

been  introduced  with  some  success  for  the  manufacture  of  horse- 
shoes. 

Material.— Machine-made  horse-shoes  have,  unfortunately,  never 
hitherto  proved  successful,  from  the  material  of  which  they  are 
manufactured  proving  either  too  soft— when  they  were  too  rapidly 
worn  out— or  too  hard,  when  they  had  a  tendency  either  to  break 
or  induce  slipping. 

We  have  remarked  how  important  it  is  that  the  shoes  worn  by 
horses  should  be  as  light  as  possible.  It  is  generally  a  good  plan, 
if  a  horse  wears  his  shoes  more  at  one  part  than  another,  so  that 
they  do  not  last  a  sufficient  time,  to  weld  in  a  small  piece  of  steel 
at  that  place,  instead  of  thickening  the  shoe  and  making  it 
heavier.  The  latter  method,  which  is  that  generally  adopted  to 
save  time,  most  frequently  defeats  its  purpose— the  increased 
weight  causing  the  animal  to  drag  its  feet  heavily  along  the 
ground  instead  of  lifting  them  freely. 

Lightness  and  durability  can  only  be  attained  by  employing  the 
best  material. 

Nail-holes.— The  form  of  the  shoe  having  been  decided  upon, 
the  position  and  shape  of  the  nail-holes,  as  well  as  their  number, 
have  next  to  be  considered. 

The  shoe  ought  to  be  attached  by  nails  to  those  parts  of  the 
wall  where  the  horn  is  strongest  and  toughest.  In  the  fore-foot, 
these  parts  are  in  front  and  along  the  sides  to  the  quarters ;  there 
the  horn  becomes  narrow  and  thin,  and  the  nails  find  less  support, 
and  are  nearer  to  the  living  textures ;  this  is  more  particularly 
the  case  toward  the  heels,  especially  the  inner  one.  In  the  hind- 
foot  the  wall  is  generally  strong  towards  the  quarters  and  heel. 
These  facts  at  once  give  us  an  indication  as  to  the  best  position 
for  the  nail-holes.  In  the  fore-foot,  nails  can  be  driven  through 
the  wall  around  the  toe  as  far  as  the  inside  quarter,  and  a  little 


HORSE-SHOEING.  133 

nearer  the  heel  on  the  outside.     In  the  hind-foot,  they  may  be 
driven  around  the  toe,  and  even  up  to  the  heels  with  impunity. 


The  form  of  the  nail-holes  is  a  matter  of  secondary  importan  le. 
The  "fullering,"  or  groove  around  the  border  of  the  English 
shoe,  though  artistic-looking,  is  a  mistake  ;  it  is  a  waste  of  lab  5r 
and  of  little,  if  any,  service.  What  is  termed  the  "  stamped 
shoe/'  is  in  every  way  preferable.  The  square  or  somewhat  oval 
cavity,  wide  at  the  top  and  tapering  toward  the  bottom,  gives  a 
secure  and  solid  lodgment  to  the  nail-head;  which  of  course 
should  tit  the  cavity  accurately  ;  it  does  not  weaken  the  shoe,  is 
easily  made,  can  be  placed  nearer  the  outer  or  inner  margin  of 
the  plate  as  required,  and  when  rilled  with  the  nail  is  as  capable 
of  resisting  wear  as  any  other  part  of  the  shoe.  It  is  usually 
better  to  have  the  nail-holes  stamped  "  coarse"  (that  is,  at  some 
distance  from  the  outer  margin  of  the  shoe)  at  points  correspond- 
ing to  those  parts  of  the  hoof  where  the  wall  is  strongest ;  and 
"  finer"  where  the  horn  is  thin  and  its  fibres  short. 

They  should  not,  as  a  rule,  incline  outward  or  inward,  but  be 
so  perforated  that  the  nail-point  can  take  a  strong  or  weak  hold 
of  the  wall,  according  to  circumstances.  If  the  hoof  be  strong, 
with  plenty  of  wall  at  its  lower  margin,  then  the  holes  may  be 
stamped  coarse,  in  order  to  take  a  short  but  solid  hold  of  it,  by 
driving  the  nail  obliquely  outward  (as  in  Fig.  16,  a). 

The  number  of  nail-holes  through  which  nails  are  to  be  driven 
should  be  as  few  as  possible.  Every  nail  penetrating  the  wall 
of  the  foot,  no  matter  how  skillfully  it  may  be  placed,  may  be 
looked  upon  as  a  source  of  injury  to  it,  by  splitting  asunder  or 
breaking  its  fibres.  On  the  form  and  weight  of  the  shoe  will 
greatly  depend  the  number  of  nails  required  to  retain  it.  With 
that  I  have  described  as  used  in  hunting,  or  as  modified  by  me, 
and  which  rests  firmly  on  wall  and  sole,  as  well  as  being  as  light 


184 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


as  is  compatible  with  a  certain  period  of  wear,  but  few  nails  are 
needed.  The  ordinary  heavy  shoe,  on  the  contrary,  is  not  only 
damaging  to  the  foot,  because  it  rests  on  such  a  narrow  basis, 
but  also  because  its  weight  and  instability  necessitates  its  being 
attached  by  a  large  number  of  long  thick  nails,  which  do  great 
harm  to  the  hoof. 


Fig.  16. 

With  care  in  fitting  a  properly  constructed  shoe,  and  skill  in 
placing  the  nails  firmly  in  sound  horn,  the  usual  number  may  be 
considerably  reduced;  so  that  instead  of  seven  to  ten  being 
required,  it  will  be  found  that  from  four  to  six  are  equally  service- 
able, and  even  these  may  be  of  diminished  size.  For  shoes  worn 
by  medium-sized  draught  horses,  I  seldom  allow  more  than  six 
nails  in  the  fore  and  seven  in  the  hind  feet ;  more  frequently  the 
former  are  secured  by  five  nails — three  in  the  outside  and  two 
in  the  inside  branch  of  the  shoe,  and  the  latter  by  three  on 
each  side. 


The  fewer  the  number  of  nail-holes,  the  greater  is  the 
necessity  for  distributing  them  wide  apart  ;  indeed,  it  is  a 
grave  blunder  to  cluster  the  nails  closely  together  in  the  hoof, 
as  they  break  and  weaken  the  horn,  and  attach  the  shoe  much 
less  |  securely   than   if  they   were   spread  over  a  wider  surface. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  185 

Calkins  demand  the  employment  of  additional  nails,  from  their 
liability  to  become  fixed  between  stones,  and  also  from  the 
strain  they  occasion. 

It  must  always  be  remembered  that  the  retention  of  a  shoe  for 
a  sufficient  period  does  not  so  much  depend  upon  the  number  of 
nails  attaching  it,  as  upon  their  disposition  and  upon  its  exact 
fitting-  and  solid  bearing  on  the  wall  and  sole  of  the  hoof.  It 
should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  where  there  is  a  clip  there 
ought  to  be  no  nail ;  lameness  is  not  unfrequently  produced  by  a 
tightly-adjusted  clip  making  so  much  pressure  upon  the  nail  and 
horn  within  it  as  to  cause  pain  aud  inflammation. 

We  have  alluded  to  the  various  patterns  of  shoes  in  use,  and 
pointed  out  their  defects  and  recpaireinents.  As,  in  preparing  the 
hoof,  general  principles  were  laid  down  which  are  applicable  to 
every  kind  of  animal — from  the  race-horse  to  the  mammoth 
draught-beast  employed  in  our  large  manufacturing  cities — so  in 
the  shape  of  the  shoe  and  its  essential  characteristics  general 
principles  must  everywhere  prevail.  "Where  speed  is  demanded, 
as  in  the  race-horse,  hunter,  etc.,  lightness  and  security  of  foot- 
hold on  soft  or  slippery  land  are  the  chief  desiderata. ;  with  coach 
and  other  draught  animals  of  less  speed,  and  which  are  prin- 
cipally used  on  paved  roads,  heavier  shoes  are  needed  to  sustain 
wear,  and  they  must  also  afford  security ;  but  while,  with  the 
racer,  hunter,  and  other  animals  nearly  always  moving  over  soft 
soil,  calkins  may  be  resorted  to  without  much  detriment  to  the 
limb  and  foot,  as  they  sink  into  the  ground,  on  the  shoes  of 
horses  working  on  hard  roads  they  are  objectionable  for  the 
reasons  stated ;  if  they  are  resorted  to,  their  injurious  action 
should  be  averted  by  employing  a  toe-piece  of  the  same  height. 

For  the  race-horse  the  narrowest  iron  rim  is  sufficient,  provided 


186  HORSE-SHOEING. 

it  is  strong  enough  not  to  twist  or  bend.      The  present  form   of 
shoe  is  not  objectionable. 

For  hunters,  hacks,  and  harness  horses,  a  shoe  of  the  modified 
pattern  I  have  described  is  well  adapted;  even  the  ordinary 
hunting  pattern,  but  without  the  calkin  on  the  hind-shoe, 
is  infinitely  preferable  to  that  used  for  hacks  and  harness 
horses. 

Another  excellent  form  of  shoe,  introduced  by  Staff  Veterinary 
Surgeon  Thacker,  and  which  has  been  in  use  for  some  time  in 
Woolwich  on  riding  and  harness  horses,  deserves  to  be  men- 
tioned here.  It  is  broader  in  the  cover  at  the  toe  than  the  heels 
(Fig.  17)  ;  at  the  toe  it  is  slightly  curved  upward,  to  remove  it 
from  the  greater  amount  of  wear  occuring  at  this  part,  and  also 
as  a  safeguard  against  horses  stumbling.  This  curve  also  acts  as 
.a  clip  to  prevent  the  shoe  moving  backward.      The  foot-surface  is 


Fig.  17. 

•quite  flat,  and  rests  on  the  sole  and  wall  (Fig.  17).  The  ground- 
surface  (Fig.  18)  is  beveled  somewhat  like  the  hunting  or  modi- 
fied shoe  I  have  described,  with  the  intention  of  protecting  the 
heads  of  the  nails  from  too  much  wear,  and  offering  no  line  or 
cavity  whereby  a  stone  can  lodge  or  become  wedged.  The 
cover  or  "  web  "  of  the  shoe  is  gradually  brought  very  narrow 
.at  the   heels,   its   outer  rim    corresponding    exactly    with    the 


HORSE-SHOEING.  187 

crust,  and  the  ends  of  the  branches  terminating  at  the  heels  of 
the  foot,  thus  offering  protection  to  the  crust  only,  and  without 
presenting  any  surface  to  be  trodden  upon  or  allowing  the  least 
suction  in  heavy  ground. 


Fig.  18. 

The  nail-holes  are  in  the  centre  of  the  web,  and  are  directed 
outward,  by  which  the  nails  pass  obliquely  across  the  fibres  of 
the  wall  and  secure  a  good  hold,  without  approaching  the  sensi- 
tive parts  too  closely.  Three-fourths  of  an  inch  is  supposed  to 
be  the  height  necessary  to  drive  the  nails. 

There  are  two  small  clips — one  on  each  side  of  the  curvature  at 
the  toe — and  these  not  only  support  the  diminished  number  of 
nails,  but  require  that  the  farrier  fit  the  shoe  to  the  circum- 
ference of  the  foot.  The  smallest-sized  nails  should  be  invariably 
used,  and  fitted  into  each  nail-hole  before  applying  the  shoe — 
the  shoe  to  be  light  and  made  of  good  material.  This  pattern, 
like  the  modified  shoe  I  have  proposed,  is  suitable  for  either  fore 
or  hind  feet. 

It  may  be  mentioned  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  side- 
clips  at  the  toe,  this  shoe  is  nearly  identical  in  shape  with 
that  recommended  by  Colonel  Fitzwygram  in  his  excellent  work 
on  shoeing. 


138  HORSE-SHOEING. 


APPLYING   THE    SHOE. 

The  foot  having  been  duly  prepared,  and  the  form  of  shoe  de- 
cided upon,  the  next  step  is  to  apply  the  shoe  to  the  hoof,  and 
retain  it  there  by  nails. 

In  ordinary  practice  the  wail  of  the  foot  has  been  only  partially 
diminished,  the  remainder  of  the  task  being  left  until  the  shoe 
has  to  be  fitted.     This  causes  the  farrier  to  have  a  very  imperfect 
idea  of  the  proper  shape  or  size  of  the  hoof,  and  he  therefore 
prepares  a  shoe  which  he  guesses  is  about  the  size,  though  in 
nearly  every  case  it  is  too  small  ;  and,  moulding  it  according  to 
his  fancy,  he  proceeds  to  adjust  the  foot  to  it.      This  is  done  by 
cutting  more  or  less  deeply  into  the  wall  at  the  toe,  to  make  the 
shoe  appear  long  enough  by  embedding  the  clip  deeply  in  its 
substance,  or  "  letting  it  back,"  as  it  is  termed.     The  consequence 
is,  that  when  the  shoe  has  been  nailed  on,  the  basis  of  support 
of  the  limb  is  abnormally  diminished,  a  large  portion  of  the  wall 
of  the  hoof— its  strongest  portion— projects  beyond  the  shoe  in 
front  and  at  the  sides,  and  this  is  afterward  carefully  removed  by 
the  rasp,  to  the  great  injury  to  the  most  essential  portion  of  the 
hoof.     In  every  respect,  the  foot  is  made  to  fit  the  shape  of  the 
shoe,  and  as  this  is  generally  prepared  with  a  view  only  to  neat- 
ness or  the  traditions  of  routine,  the  organ  suffers,  to  please  the 
fancy  or  fashion  of  the  unreasoning  artisan. 

By  our  method,  the  horn  having  been  reduced  to  proper 
dimensions,  the  shoe  is  now  made  to  exactly  fit  the  hoof, 
and  to  follow  the  outline  of  its  lower  face.  The  part  of  the 
hoof  intended  to  be  protected  by  the  iron  rim  has  been  made 
as  level  as  possible  by  the  rasp,  aided  a  very  little,  perhaps, 
by  the  knife  ;  the  surface  of  the  shoe  destined  to  rest  on  this 
horny  bed  has  also  been  made  perfectly  level  and  smooth,  particu- 
larly at  the  clip  or  clips,  and  it  is  to  be  correctly  fitted.      The 


HORSE-SHOEING.  189 

farrier  should  so  mould  the  shoe  that  it  be  an  exact  reproduction 
in  outline  of  the  circumference  of  the  hoof.  To  make  it  appear 
so  when  applied,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remove  a  little  of  the 
wall  at  the  part  corresponding  to  the  clip,  merely  to  make  the  fit 
more  accurate  and  not  allow  any  portion  of  the  shoe  to  project 
unduly  beyond  the  horn. 

The  length  of  the  shoe  will  vary  with  the  uses  to  which  the 
horse  is  put.  For  racing,  hunting,  and  other  purposes  in  which 
the  hind  limbs  are  carried  forward  to  an  extreme  degree  in  pro- 
pelling the  body,  the  branches  of  the  fore-shoe  must  on  no  account 
extend  beyond  the  inflection  of  the  wall,  otherwise  the  shoe  is 
liable  to  be  torn  off  by  the  hind-foot,  and  the  horse  thrown  down. 
The  end  of  the  branch  should  also  be  carefully  rounded  off  and 
beveled  (as  in  Fig.  13),  so  as  to  leave  nothing  whatever  by  which 
the  hind  shoe  might  catch  it. 

With  harness  and  draught  horses  this  extreme  care  in  shorten- 
ing and  beveling  the  heels  is  not  so  necessary ;  indeed,  in  the 
heavier  and  slower  paced  animals,  it  is  frequently  advantageous 
to  allow  the  shoes  to  be  rather  longer  at  the  heels  than  the  hoof 
itself. 

As  a  rule,  then,  the  shoe  ought  to  be  wide  enough  at  the  toe, 
quarters  and  heels  to  support  the  entire  thickness  of  the  wall,  but 
yet  not  so  wide  or  long  as  to  endanger  the  opposite  limbs  by 
striking  them,  or  run  the  chance  of  being  torn  off  by  the  other 
feet  treading  upon  it ;  and  it  should  not  interfere  with  the  frog, 
or  prevent  that  organ  from  playing  its  part  in  the  physiology  of 
the  foot. 

The  adjustment  of  the  shoe  to  the  exact  circumference  of  the 
hoof  is  usually  effected  at  the  same  time  as  the  fitting  together 
of  the  two  surfaces  of  iron  and  horn  which  are  to  remain  in 
contact.  To  render  both  accurate,  the  horse  should  always  be 
shod  at  a  forge.     A  hammer  and  anvil  are  necessary  to  mould  the 


190  HORSE-SHOEING. 

heated  shoe  to  the  requisite  shape  ;  and  it  is  almost,  if  not  quite, 
impossible  to  obtain  a  perfectly  true  and  solid  adaptation  of  the 
upper  face  of  the  shoe  to  the  horn  on  which  it  is  to  rest,  within 
any  reasonable  time,  unless  it  be  fitted  to  the  hoof  in  a  hot 
state. 

Hot  and  Cold  Fitting. — For  very  many  years  the  two  systems  of 
fitting  horse-shoes  in  a  cold  and  a  heated  condition  to  the  hoofs 
have  been  extensively  and  severely  tested,  and  the  result  has 
been  that  cold  fitting-  is,  as  a  rule,  only  resorted  to  when  circum- 
stances prevent  the  adoption  of  the  other  method,  or  when  the 
owner  of  a  horse,  imagining  that  the  hot  shoe  injures  the  foot,, 
incurs  the  risks  attending  a  bad  fit  to  guard  against  his  imaginary 
evil. 

It  is  needless,  in  a  brief  essay  like  the  present,  to  enter  into 
a  relation  of  the  observations  and  experiments  which  have  estab- 
lished the  undoubted  and  great  superiority  of  what  is  termed 
"hot"  to  ffcold"  fitting.  These  will  be  found  noticed  at  some 
length  in  a  work  recently  published  by  me,  entitled  "  Horseshoes 
and  Horseshoeing."  It  may  be  sufficient  to  state  that  the  evils 
supposed  to  result  from  fitting  the  shoes  hot  to  the  hoofs  are 
purely  chimerical.  It  is  true,  when  the  sole  is  excessively  mutil- 
ated should  the  farrier  keep  the  heated  shoe  too  long  in  contact 
with  it,  injury  would  doubtless  follow,  but  this  accident  is  so 
exceedingly  rare  as  to  be  scarcely  ever  known,  even  in  forges 
where  shoeing  is  performed  in  the  most  objectionable  manner. 
The  ill  effects  imagined  to  arise  from  hot  shoeing  can  easily  be 
traced  to  the  operal  ion  of  other  causes,  not  the  least  of  which  is 
the  fashion  of  paring  the  lower  face  of  the  foot. 

The  chief  objections  to  cold  shoeing  are  the  want  of  solidity, 
the  foot  being  made  to  fit  the  shoe,  and  the  process  being  more 
difficult  and  expensive. 

The  defective  solidity  is  patent  to  every  one  who  has  had  any 


HORSE-SHOEING.  191 

experience  in  the  matter.  It  is  impossible  to  level  the  ends  of 
the  horn-fibres  so  accurately  that  they  will  all  rest  evenly  on  the 
surface  of  the  iron  ;  so  those  which  are  most  prominent  soon 
giving  way  to  pressure,  the  bed  of  the  shoe  is  altered,  and  this, 
becoming  loose,  is  either  lost,  or  we  have  projecting  clenches. 
And  even  should  the  fibres  be  made  perfectly  level,  wet  softens 
them,  causing  them  to  become  pulpy  and  shorter,  by  which 
means  the  seat  of  the  shoe  is  impaired  and  the  nails  lose  their 
firm  hold  of  the  wall.  Ample  experience  on  active  service,  as 
well  as  that  gathered  at  home  during  peace,  has  demonstrated 
the  instability  resulting  from  cold  fitting. 

Owing  to  the  increased  trouble  and  loss  of  time  incurred  by 
this  method  in  attempts  to  make  the  shoe  fit  somewhat  accurately, 
but  few.  farriers  can  afford  or  are  willing  to  resort  to  it.  Hence, 
when  it  is  practised,  if  the  shoe  is  at  all  like  the  foot,  it  is  put  on, 
and  rasp  and  knife  insure  the  hoof  being  made  to  fit  it.  This 
proceeding  is  very  injurious. 

In  hot  fitting  we  have  none  of  these  objections.  The  shoe  is 
very  readily  adapted  to  the  foot ;  it  is  more  equally  applied,  and 
rests  solidly  on  the  hoof,  so  that  the  nails  are  not  broken  or 
displaced  by  the  shoe  becoming  loose ;  in  fine,  there-  is  a  more 
intimate  contact  between  the  iron  and  the  surface  of  the  horn. 
The  very  fact  of  burning  or  fusing  the  ends  of  the  fibres  insures 
a  solid,  durable  bed  which  cannot  be  obtained  otherwise,  as  this 
destroys  the  spongy  absorbent  properties  of  the  horn  and  renders 
it  eminently  calculated  to  withstand  the  influence  of  moisture. 
The  effects  produced  on  horn  by  the  hot  iron  have  been  compared 
to  those  of  fire  on  pieces  of  wood  whose  ends  have  been  super- 
ficially carbonized  before  being  buried  in  the  ground.  Every  one 
knows  that  this  operation  contributes  to  the  preservation  of  the 
wood  by  preserving  it  from  the  action  of  humidity. 

Horn  is  a  very  slow  conductor  of  heat,  and  it  requires  a  very 


192  HORSE-SHOEING. 

prolonged  application  of  the  hot  shoe  to  affect  the  shoe  to  any 
considerable  depth.  Three  minutes'  burning  of  the  lower  face 
of  the  sole  has  been  found  necessary  to  produce  any  indication  of 
increase  of  temperature  by  the  thermometer  on  its  upper  surface. 
It  is  never  required  that  the  shoe  should  be  applied  longer  than 
a  few  seconds. 

The  hot  shoe,  in  fusing  the  horn  with  which  it  comes  in  con- 
tact, imprints  itself  like  a  seal  in  melted  sealing-wax,  and  in  this 
way  the  two  surfaces  of  foot  and  shoe  exactly  coincide ;  while  no 
matter  how  expert  the  workman  may  be  in  using  his  tools  to  level 
the  horn  in  a  cold  state,  he  can  never  do  it  so  quickly  or  so  com- 
pletely as  may  be  done  by  making  an  impression  with  the  heated 
shoe,  and  consequently  establishing  between  the  lower  margin  of 
the  hoof  and  the  shoe  an  exact  coaptation. 

It  may  be  added  that,  when  the  surface  of  the  horn  has  been 
softened  by  the  action  of  caloric,  the  nails  enter  it  more  readily, 
the  clips  and  inequalities  are  more  easily  embedded,  and  when  it 
recovers  its  habitual  consistency  after  cooling,  the  union  between 
it  and  the  metallic  parts  which  are  in  contact  becomes  all  the 
more  intimate  because  of  the  slight  contraction  that  follows  the 
expansion  produced  by  the  heat.  Under  these  conditions,  the 
horn  contracts  on  the  shanks  of  the  nails,  and  retains  them  most 
securely. 

All  the  highest  veterinary  authorities  who  have  studied  the 
subject  are  unanimous  in  recommending  hot  fitting  in  preference 
to  cold ;  the  latter  is  only  j  ustifiable  when  it  is  impossible  to 
adopt  the  former.  The  red-hot  shoe  at  once  disposes  of  those 
inequalities  which  cannot  be  discovered,  or  removed  by  tools  ; 
and  it  shows  the  workman  at  a  glance  the  bearing  of  the  shoe  on 
the  hoof,  as  well  as  the  imprint  on  the  nail-holes.  Without  being 
reheated,  any  alteration  can  be  readily  and  at  once  effected  in 
moulding  the  shoe  to  the  shape  of  the  two. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  193 

The  whole  surface  of  the  shoe  intended  to  be  in  contact  with 
the  horn  should  be  distinctly  impressed  on  the  contour  of  the 
hoof,  so  as  to  insure  the  closest  and  most  accurate  intimacy  be- 
tween the  two ;  and  this  carbonized  surface  should  not  be  inter- 
fered with  on  any  account,  except  by  the  rasp,  which  is  only  to  be 
employed  in  removing  any  sharpness  or  inequality  on  the  extreme 
edge  of  the  wall  that  may  have  been  caused  in  fittino-. 

It  is  necessary  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  shoe  should  be  fitted  at 
a  red  heat.  Its  application  then  need  only  be  very  brief,  and  it  is 
far  more  effective  in  producing  a  solid,  level  surface  ;  it  ought  not 
to  be  applied  at  a  black  heat.  Should  the  margin  of  the  hoof  not 
be  sufficiently  levelled  by  the  rasp  before  the  application  of  the 
hot  shoe,  a  slight  contact  of  the  latter  will  show  the  inequalities, 
and  these  may  then  be  removed  by  rasp  or  knife.  On  no  occasion 
ought  the  shoe  to  remain  longer  on  the  hoof  than  is  necessary  to 
produce  a  solid,  perfectly  level  surface. 

The  Nails.— The  shoe  having  been  made  to  fit  the  hoof  exactly, 
is  cooled  and  finished  with  the  file.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  at- 
tached to  the  hoof  by  nails.  These  should  not  be  unnecessarily 
large,  as  is  too  often  the  case,  but  well  proportioned  to  the  size  of 
the  shoe.  The  heads  should  only  be  sufficient  to  fill  the  nail- 
holes  when  subjected  to  two  or  three  smart  blows  of  the  hammer, 
and  the  shanks  thin.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add  that  the 
nails,  like  the  shoe,  should  always  be  made  of  the  best  iron. 

Driving  the  Nails.— In  driving  the  nails  into  the  hoof,  every  one 

should  be  made  to  pass  through  sound  horn.     It  is  a  mistake  to 

place  them  where  the  wall  is  broken  or  perforated  by  previous 

nails,  as  this  only  makes  bad  worse ;  and  care  should  be  taken  to 

direct  each  nail  so  accurately  that  it  may  make  its  exit  at  the 

desired  point  in  the  face  of  the  wall  at  once.    Careless  or  unskillful 
M 


194  HORSE-SHOEING. 

driving  of  the  nails  necessitates  their  being  withdrawn  several 
times  before  they  are  properly  implanted,  and  as  each  nail,  how- 
ever carefully  it  may  be  placed  in  the  wall  at  the  first  attempt,  is 
a  source  of  injury  by  splitting  asunder  and  perforating  the  fibres, 
it  follows  that  when  several  attempts  have  to  be  made  the  injury 
is  proportionately  increased. 

A  short  thick  hold  of  the  wall  is  better  than  a  long  thin  one. 
If  possible,  no  more  horn  should  be  included  within  the  grasp  of 
the  nail  than  is  likely  to  be  removed  at  the  following  shoeing. 
By  this  means  the  wall  is  constantly  maintained  sound. 

A  foot  allowed  to  grow  strong  in  the  manner  I  have  described, 
will  suffer  no  inconvenience  in  having  the  nails  driven  tightly 
into  the  shoe  and  hoof  after  they  have  been  placed  in  the  wall. 

Where  the  hoof  is  thin,  as  at  the  quarters  and  heels  of  the  fore- 
foot, smaller  and  more  slender  nails  must  be  used,  and  these  must 
be  less  tightly  driven.  The  toe  nails  should  be  first  hammered 
home  firmly,  then  the  quarter  and  heel  nails  lightly.  Every  nail 
should  form  a  part  of  the  shoe,  and  the  head  should  barely  pro- 
ject above  it ;  when  all  are  solidly  disposed,  they  must  be  tightly 
"  drawn  up "  at  the  ends  (the  points  having  been  twisted  off 
previously)  by  means  of  the  hammer  and  pincers,  using  the  same 
graduated  degree  of  force  as  in  driving  them  home. 

Conclusion  of  the  Operation. — Nothing  then  remains  ts  be  done 
but  to  bend  down  or  "  clench  "  the  portion  of  nail  so  drawn  up  on 
the  face  of  the  wall.  This  should  be  accomplished  by  shortening 
the  fragment  to  a  proper  length  by  the  rasp,  so  as  to  leave  just 
enough  to  turn  over  ;  the  rasp  also  removes  the  small  barb  of 
horn  raised  in  drawing  up  the  nail,  but  without  making  a  notch, 
and  then  the  clench  is  laid  down  evenly.  No  more  rasping  or 
cutting  should  be  allowed  on  any  pretext  whatever. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  195 

Rasping. — Very  different  to  this  treatment  is  that  practised 
in  nearly  every  forge,  where  the  front  of  the  hoof  is  rasped  most 
unmercifully  as  high  as  the  coronet.  Indeed,  in  the  majority  of 
books  on  farriery  it  is  recommended  that,  though  the  wall 
ought  not  to  be  rasped  above  the  clenches,  this  must  be  done 
below  them;  evidently  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  nearly  as 
much,  if  not  more,  harm  is  done  by  this  operation  below  than 
than  above  these  rivets. 

Those  who  study  what  I  have  said  concerning  the  structure 
of  the  wall  of  the  hoof  will  readily  enough  understand  the 
amount  of  injury  inflicted  on  the  hoof  by  this  rasping. 

Over  the  whole  external  face  of  this  part  there  appears  to  be 
spread  a  fine  translucent  horn,  which  looks  like  a  varnish,  whose 
office  in  all  probability  is  to  prevent  undue  drying  of  the  hoof 
and  consequent  brittleness.  Immediately  beneath  this  are  the 
dense  resisting  fibres  of  the  wall,  which  are  intended  to  resist 
wear,  and  are  best  adapted  to  support  a  shoe,  through  the 
medium  of  the  nails ;  in  fact,  they  are  the  fibres  which  ought  to 
perform  this  duty,  as  beneath  them,  toward  the  inside  of  the 
wall,  the  horn  rapidly  becomes  soft  and  spongy,  and  more  like 
the  pith  of  a  rush. 

In  consequence  of  the  farrier  having  neglected  to  remove  a 
sufficient  amount  of  horn  from  the  lower  margin  of  the  wall, 
when  preparing  the  foot  for  the  shoe,  or  having  nailed  on  a  plate 
too  small  for  its  natural  circumference,  a  large  piece  of  the  solid 
material  projects  beyond  the  shoe,  particularly  in  front  and  at 
the  sides.  This  is  torn  away  by  the  rasp,  after  the  clenches  have 
been  laid  down ;  and  when  this  has  been  done  what  do  we  see  ? 
The  wall  of  the  foot,  instead  of  coming  down  from  the  coronet  to 
the  shoe  in  all  its  integrity  and  evenness  of  slope,  as  soon  as  it 
reaches  the  clenches  is  chopped  abruptly  downward,  giving  the 
foot  a  stump  or  club-like  appearance,  and  greatly  diminishing 
the  extent  of  its  bearing  surface.     The  greatest  evil,  however,  is 


100  HORSE-SHOEING. 

the  loss  of  the  strong,  tough  horn,  whose  presence  is  so  necessary 
to  protect  the  lower  margin  of  the  hoof  and  afford  support  and 
hold  to  the  nails. 

In  consequence  of  its  removal,  these  having  nothing  to  retain 
them  but  the  thin  pellicle  of  soft  horn  remaining,  and  this  being 
so  weak,  and  exposed  to  influences  it  was  never  intended  to 
encounter,  quickly  dries  up,  shrivels,  becomes  brittle,  and  cracks 
or  breaks  away  in  flakes.  Then  we  have  a  hoof  deprived  of  its 
horn,  and  in  as  unnatural  a  condition  as  can  well  be  imagined  •* 
it  has  been  so  barbarously  mutilated  as  to  require  the  greatest 
care  next  shoeing  to  place  the  nails  in  a  shred  of  sound  horn ; 
the  operation  of  rasping  and  curtailment  being  repeated  each 
time  increases  the  evil,  and  should  a  shoe  chance  to  come  off  on 
the  road — an  accident,  it  may  be  inferred,  extremely  likely  to 
happen — great  damage  will  be  done  to  the  pared  sole,  and  the 
thin,  brittle,  slit-up  wall,  and  in  all  probability,  after  a  few  yards 
traveling,  the  animal  will  be  lamed. 

The  morbid  desire  to  make  fine  work  of  shoeing,  when  the 
horse  was  first  shod,  ends  in  the  greatest  amount  of  skill  and 
labor  being  required  to  continue  it,  and  keep  the  animal  to  some 
extent  fit  for  service,  though  with  deformed  feet,  seriously 
damaged  horn,  and  perhaps  great  suffering. 

The  truth  of  this  can  be  verified  by  a  casual  glance  at  the 
hoofs  of  almost  every  horse  that  passes  us  in  town  or  country, 
though  perhaj)s  it  is  most  conspicuous  in  town-shod  horses. 

One  of  the  most  serious  results  of  this  excessive  mutilation 
of  the  lower  part  of  the  wall  is  the  production  of  a  chronic 
form  of  laminitis,  marked  by  slight  subsidence  half-way  down 
the  front  of  the  foot,  and  to  a  less  degree  at  the  side,  with  an 
abrupt,  rounded  protrusion  of  the  [part  that  is  always  exposed 
to  rasping. 

This  deformity,   which  causes  pain   and   altered   gait   in   the 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


197 


majority  of  cases  arises  from  the  irritation  caused  to  the  sensitive 
parts  within  by  the  removal  of  their  natural  protection,  but 
more  particularly  from  the  fact  that  the  nails,  to  retain  the  shoe, 
must  be  driven  through  a  sufficient  amount  of  soft  horn,  and  this 
brings  them  so  near  the  living  parts  that  they  press  upon  them 
to  such  a  degree  as  to  set  up  an  acute  or  subacute  inflammation 
that  leads  to  this  deformity  and  its  attendant  lameness. 

Cases  of  this  description  will  be  found  to  be  by  no  means 
uncommon  among  the  horses  in  our  streets,  and  for  many  years 
I  have  been  able  to  trace  the  evil  effects  of  the  practice  from 
their  commencement  until  the  animal  was  a  hopeless  cripple. 

When  the  coachman,  groom,  or  farrier's  fancy  causes  the  rasp 
to  be  carried  above  the  clenches  to  the  top  of  the  hoof,  then  of 
course  the  injury  is  greatly  aggravated. 

The  thin,  semi-translucent  horn  that  extends  in  a  somewhat 
wide,  whitish-colored  band  around  the  upper  part  of  the  foot,  is 
chiefly  intended  by  Nature,  I  think,  to  protect  the  fibres  of  the 
wall  from  the  effects  of  external  physical  influences,  such  as  heat 
and  dryness,  while  they  are  being  secreted,  or  so  immature  as  to 
be  incapable  of  resisting  these  influences— for  it  will  be  remem- 
bered that  the  wall  is  formed  at  the  coronet,  and  this  covering 
guarantees  not  only  the  integrity  of  the  newly-made  horn-tubes, 
but  also  maintains  the  secreting  vessels  that  enter  them  in  a 
healthy  condition,  and  competent  to  supply  fresh  material  for 


The  destruction  of  this  band  and  the  rasping  of  the  fibres 
beneath  it,  is  detrimental  to  the  healthy  secretion  of  the  wall- 
fibres,  and  leads  to  the  same  result  that  paring  the  sole  was  shown 
to  do— shrinking  of  the  horn-tubes  containing  the  tufts  of  vessels, 
wasting  of  these,  a  diminished  supply  of  horny  material  in  con- 
sequence, and  a  thin,  brittle  wall  that  scarcely  appears  to  grow 
down  at  all  in  depth  or  thickness,  and  barely  allows  a  shoe  to  be 


19S  HORSE-SHOEING. 

attached  to  it.     Sand-crack,  and  other  diseased  conditions  of  this 
part  of  the  hoof,  are  mainly  due  to  this  cause. 

After  applying  the  shoe  in  the  manner  we  have  described,  and 
laying  down  the  clenches  evenly  on  the  wall  of  the  hoof,  no  more 
requires  to  be  done,  unless,  perhaps,  it  be  to  round  a  little  more 
the  edge  of  the  narrow  shreds  of  horn  that  may  project  on  each 
side  of  the  clip,  and  thus  prevent  their  liability  to  split.  The 
angle  of  the  face  of  the  hoof  should  never  be  interfered  with 
after  the  shoe  is  nailed  on,  but  should  be  the  same  from  top  to 
bottom  as  in  the  natural  state.  This  is  a  matter  of  great  importance. 
Too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  upon  the  preservation  of  the  horn 
of  the  hoof  in  its  integrity.  No  amount  of  rasping  or  artificial 
treatment  can  give  the  hoof  the  beautiful  polish  it  has  in  its 
natural  state. 

Laying  doivn  Clips. — At  this  stage  it  is  usual  to  apply  the  clip 
or  clips  more  exactly  and  evenly  to  the  hoof  before  completing  the 
operation  of  shoeing ;  and  even  this  apparently  trifling  matter 
demands  care.  With  gradually  decreasing  blows  of  the  shoeing- 
hammer,  each  clip  should  be  applied  close  to  the  hoof,  commencing 
at  the  bottom,  where  it  springs  from  the  shoe,  and  ascending  to 
its  point,  Clips  should  never  be  driven  tight  into  the  hoof.  This 
is  injurious,  and  may  induce  disease. 

When,  in  due  course,  the  period  arrives  for  re-shoeing — usually 
in  a  month  or  five  weeks — the  hoofs  require  to  be  reduced  to  their 
normal  dimensions ;  the  rules  we  have  laid  down  for  guidance 
are  to  be  followed  out  in  the  most  scrupulous  manner.  The  old 
shoe  is  to  be  gently  removed  from  the  foot  by  carefully  cutting- 
away  the  clenches  with  the  buffer  ;  the  pincers  are  then  to  be 
inserted  toward  the  heel,  between  the  hoof  and  shoe,  and  the 
latter  prized  steadily  upward  from  and  across  the  foot.  When  by 
this   means  the  nails  have  been  sufficiently  sprung,  they  may  be 


HORSE-SHOEING.  199 

withdrawn  one  by  one.  Particular  care  must  be  taken  that  no 
clenches  or  broken  nails  remain  in  the  hoof ,  as  these  are  likely  to 
turn  the  points  of  the  succeeding  nails  into  the  living  parts  of  the 
foot. 

Such,  then,  on  the  one  hand,  is  shoeing  as  it  is  usually  prac- 
ticed, to  the  great  injury  of  the  horse ;  and,  on  the  other  hand, 
shoeing  as  it  ought  to  be  performed,  so  as  to  maintain  the  comfort 
and  efficiency  of  this  noble  and  invaluable  animal. 

It  will  be  observed  that  no  claim  is  here  made  to  any  wonderful 
novelty  or  discovery  in  the  way  of  a  shoe  that  will  answer  every 
purpose,  and  keep  every  horse  wearing  it  in  a  state  of  health. 
Such  an  invention  must  be  left  to  those  whose  practical  experi- 
ence is  of  the  most  limited  character,  and  who  fancy  that  the  evils 
of  shoeing  are  concentrated  in  the  metal  plate  alone.  It  may  be 
sufficient  to  say,  in  this  place,  that,  so  far  as  the  comfort,  utility, 
and  well-being  of  the  horse  are  concerned,  the  preservation  of  the 
foot  in  health  by  abstaining  from  mutilating  and  deforming  it 
with  knife  and  rasp,  is  of  the  highest  importance.  If  this  be 
done,  the  shoe  most  appropriate  for  certain  purposes  demands 
some  attention,  but  is  really  a  matter  of  minor  consideration. 

Preserve  the  hoof  intact  and  strong,  and  the  animal  will  travel 
long  and  soundly  in  a  very  uncouth  foot  armature  ;  pare  and  rasp 
it  according  to  "  improved  principles/'  and  the  most  labored, 
expensive,  and  artistic  device  in  the  form  of  a  shoe  will  not  pre- 
vent discomfort,  unsoundness,  disease,  and  premature  useless- 
ness. 

At  an  early  period  of  my  professional  career,  I  was  much  dis- 
satisried  with  the  results  of  shoeing  as  it  is  practised  in  ordinary 
forges,  and  with  the  unreasonableness  of  the  fashion  of  depriving 
the  foot  of  its  natural  and  most  efficient  protection,  and  was  soon 


200  HORSE-SHOEING. 

led  to  perceive  that  a  vast  majority  of  the  horses  so  treated  soon 
became  deformed  and  lame  in  their  feet;  while  some  of  the  dis- 
eases occurring  higher  up  in  the  limbs  were  likewise  due  to  this 
cause. 

The  rational  method  here  inculcated  was  then  adopted,,  and 
now  for  many  years  the  only  preparation  the  foot  has  received 
for  the  shoe  has  been  levelling  the  wall,  in  conformity  with  the 
direction  of  the  limb  and  foot,  and  removing  as  much  of  its  margin 
as  will  restore  it  to  its  natural  length,  leaving  the  sole,  frog, 
bars,  and  heels  in  all  their  integrity.  Such  has  been  the  treat- 
ment of  the  hoofs  of  the  horses  under  my  care  in  various  parts  of 
the  world,  and  in  far  more  trying  circumstances  at  times,  so  far 
as  shoeing  is  concerned,  than  are  likely  to  occur  in  the  regular 
work  of  towns,  and  so  strong  were  the  hoofs,  as  a  rule,  such  solid 
blocks  of  horn  did  they  appear,  that  when  a  shoe  was,  by  some 
rare  chance,  lost  on  a  journey,  there  was  no  dan^or  whatever  to 
be  apprehended  from  marching  the  horse  ten,  twenty,  or  even 
thirty  miles,  without  it.  Horses  have  never  been  pricked  in 
nailing,  and  foot  diseases,  it  may  be  said,  have  been  all  but  un- 
known. The  roughest  roads  and  the  sharpest  stones  can  be 
traveled  over  with  impunity.  Nearly  every  hoof  might  be  taken 
as  a  model,  and  be  pronounced  as  perfect  as  before  the  animal 
was  shod,  many  years  previously. 

This  abstinence  from  paring  and  rasping,  it  will  be  seen,  very 
naturally  lessens  the  time  and  labor  required  in  the  ordinary 
method ;  indeed,  nothing  can  be  simpler  than  the  conservative 
principle  of  shoeing,  and  this  simplicity  can  be  effectively  carried 
into  practice  with  one-half  the  instruction  and  toil  required  for 
the  popular  mode. 

Other  methods  of  shoeing  have  been  devised  from  time  to  time, 
and  may  be  briefly  referred  to  here. 

To  diminish  the  weight  and  permit  a  portion  of  the  posterior  part 


HORSE-SHOEING.  201 

of  the  foot  to  come  in  direct  contact  with  the  ground  along  with 
the  frog,  a  three-quarter  shoe  is  often  applied — the  portion  of 
iron  extending  from  the  inside  quarter  to  the  point  of  the  heel 
being  cut  off,  and  the  shoe  at  this  part  thinned  a  little.  The 
horn  left  unprotected  is  never  interfered  with.  This  is  an  excel- 
lent shoe  for  saddle  and  carriage,  and  even  draught  horses,  which 
may  be  employed  on  the  worst  roads  while  wearing  it.  For  feet 
that  have  suffered  very  much  from  the  effects  of  rasping  and 
paring,  and  which  are  liable  to  have  bruised  heels  (or  corns),  its 
use  is  attended  with  the  greatest  benefit. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  "  tips"  or  half-shoes.  An  unreason- 
able prejudice  appears  to  exist  against  the  use  of  these  light, 
short  plates  ;  but  if  they  are  applied  in  appropriate  cases,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  whatever  that  they  are  entitled  to  a  far  larger 
share  of  attention  than  they  have  yet  received.  Their  very 
limited  employment  hitherto  may  have  arisen  from  the  imperfect 
manner  in  which  they  have  been  used.  They  protect  those  parts 
of  the  wall  most  exposed  to  damage  by  wear,  extending  around 
the  toe  and  reaching  no  farther  than  the  quarters ;  while  the 
heels  and  frog,  when  left  unpared  and  unrasped,  are  strong 
enough  to  meet  all  demands  made  upon  them,  at  the  same  time 
they  are  not  deprived  of  their  physiological  functions. 

In  addition  to  these  considerations,  the  diminution  in  the 
weight  of  the  shoe  is  a  matter  of  some  importance.  Of  course, 
the  three-quarters  shoe  and  tip  are  only  required  for  the  fore- 
feet ;  the  hind-feet  shoes,  so  long  as  they  are  level,  are  not  over 
heavy,  and  do  not  wound  the  opposite  limbs,  may  be  of  the 
ordinary  pattern.  On  this  difference  between  the  management 
of  the  fore  and  hind  foot  we  cannot  too  much  insist.  The  fore- 
foot is  particularly  disposed  to  disease  and  injury  ;  the  hind-foot 
is  wonderfully  exempt.  So  much  is  this  the  case,  indeed,  that 
the  proper  management  of  the  first  is  all  important,  while  the 


ZUZ  HORSE-SHOEING. 

other  requires  but  little  attention.  The  reason  of  this  is  due  to 
the  fact  that  the  horizontal  body,  and  long,  heavy  neck  and  head 
of  the  horse,  cause  the  largest  proportion  of  the  weight  to  fall 
upon  the  front  pair  of  supporting  columns,  and,  through  them, 
upon  the  feet ;  the  fore-limbs  are  those  most  concerned  in  sup- 
porting weight,  the  hind  ones  in  propelling  the  body  forward. 
Hence  the  necessity  for  allowing  as  much  of  the  lower  face  of  the 
fore-foot  as  possible  to  come  in  contact  with  the  ground ;  and 
hence  the  prevalence  of  disease  in  it  when  improper  shoeing 
limits  its  points  of  contact  to  the  narrowest  dimensions. 

Various  Methods  of  Shoeing. — Another  form  of  shoe  is  that 
commonly  known  as  the  "  bar  shoe" — a  ring  or  annular  plate  of 
metal  which  increases  the  surface  of  contact  by  resting,  to  a 
large  extent,  on  the  frog,  and  allowing  that  important  body  to 
participate  in  weight-bearing  ;  in  this  way  it  also  relieves  the 
heels  when  these  are  weak  or  injured.  It  is  a  very  useful  shoe, 
but  the  additional  weight  given  to  it  by  the  bar,  and  the  extra 
strain  on  the  nails  retaining  it  to  the  hoof,  are  drawbacks. 

To  apply  a  shoe  in  such  a  manner  as  to  allow  the  frog  to  receive 
a  due  amount  of  pressure  has  always  been  the  aim  of  those  who 
have  made  the  horse's  foot  an  object  of  careful  study.  Even  with 
the  ordinary  shoe,  if  it  be  not  too  thick  nor  garnished  with 
calkins,  the  frog,  if  unmutilated,  in  the  majority  of  cases  will 
rest  upon  the  ground  for  nearly  the  whole  of  its  length,  and 
sustain  beneficial  wear.  Nearly  every  one  of  the  horses  at 
present  in  my  charge,  though  shod  with  the  army  regulation  shoe 
— a  very  defective  model — have  their  frogs  in  this  condition ; 
while  all  the  private  horses  wearing  the  modified  shoe  I  have 
described,  exhibit  the  frog  resting  for  the  whole  of  its  length  and 
breadth  on  the  ground. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  203 

By  this  object,  with  others  of  importance,  is  perfectly  attained 
in  what  has  been  designated  the  "  periplantar  shoe  and  method 
of  shoeing,"  introduced  by  Veterinary  Surgeon  Charlier,  of  Paris. 
Leave  the  hoof  entirely  in  a  natural  condition,  so  far  as  frog, 
sole  and  wall  are  concerned,  and  imbed  a  narrow  rim  of  iron,  no 
thicker  than  the  wall,  around  the  lower  circumference  of  the 
foot — that  exposed  to  wear — like  the  iron  heel  of  a  man's  boot, 
and  we  obtain  an  idea  of  what  the  periplantar  method  of  shoeing 
really  is. 

The  principle  of  this  method  of  shoeing  is,  physiologically, 
perfectly  correct.  Knowing  that  the  horse's  foot  is  admirably 
constructed  to  perform  certain  definite  functions,  and  that  the 
hoof  in  ordinary  condition  is  designed  to  act  as  the  medium 
through  which  the  most  important  of  these  are  carried  out,  but 
that  its  circumference  is  liable  to  be  broken  away  and  worn 
when  nudely  exposed,  we  have  only  to  substitute  for  a  certain 
portion  of  this  perishable  horn  an  equivalent  portion  of  more 
durable  metal,  and  the  hoof  is  secured  from  damage  by  wear, 
while  its  natural  functions  remain  unimpaired. 

This  novel  method  of  shoeing  has  attracted  so  much  attention, 
and  has  in  many  instances  proved  so  beneficial  and  worthy  of 
adoption,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  that  I  venture  to  describe, 
as  briefly  as  possible,  the  way  in  which  it  is  carried  into  execu- 
tion in  the  forge. 

The  sole  and  frog,  as  well  as  the  bars,  are  left  unpared.  The 
crust  or  wall  is  bevelled  off  at  the  edge  by  the  rasp,  and  by 
means  of  a  special  knife  with  a  movable  guide*  a  groove  is 
made  along  this  bevelled  edge  to  receive  the  shoe.  This  groove 
is  made  a  little  shallower  than  the  thickness  of  the  sole,  and 
slightly    narrower    than    the    thickness    of    the    van,    not    ex- 


*  A  knife  of  this  kind  which  I  invented,  is  manufactured  and  sold  by  Messrs. 
Arnold  &  Son,  Instrument  Makers,  West  Smithfield,  London. 


204  HORSE-SHOEING. 

tending  beyond   the   white   line   separating  the   sole  from  the 
wall  (Fig.  19). 


Fig.  19. 

Into  this  groove  is  fitted  the  shoe.  This  is  a  narrow,  but 
somewhat  deep  band  of  iron  (or,  as  now,  a  mixture  of  iron  and 
steel),  narrower  at  the  top  than  the  bottom,  and  forged  in  such 
a  manner  that  its  front  surface  follows  the  slope  of  the  foot.  It 
is  perforated  by  from  four  to  six  oval  nail-holes  of  small  size, 
and  if  necessary  may  be  provided  with  a  clip  at  the  toe.  Its 
upper  inner  edge  is  rounded  by  the  file,  to  prevent  it  pressing 
too  much  against  the  angle  of  the  sole,  and  the  ends  of  the 
branches  are  narrow  and  beveled  off  toward  the  ground 
(Fig.  20). 

The  nails  are  very  small,  and  have  a  conical  head  and  neck 
(Fig.  21).     They  must  be  of  the  best  quality. 

It  is  best  to  fit  the  shoe  in  a  hot  state,  as  it  must  have  a 
level  bed  and  follow  exactly  the  outline  of  the  wall.  After 
it  has  been  fitted,  it  is  advisable  to  remove,  by  a  small  draw- 
ing-knife, a  little  of  the  horn  from  the  angle  of  the  groove  in 
the   hoof,    to   correspond   with   the   rounded   inner   edge  of  the 


HORSE-SHOEINQ. 


205 


shoe.     This  insures  a  proper  amount  of  space  between  the  latter 
and  the  soft  horn  at  the  margin  of  the  pedal  bone. 

In  strong  hoofs  the  shoe  is  almost  entirely  buried  in  the  groove ; 
but  in  those  which  have  the  soles  flat  or  convex,  with  low  heels, 
it  is  not  safe  to  imbed  it  so  deeply. 

The  application  of  the  hot  shoe  in  fitting  should  not  extend 
beyond  a  very  few  seconds. 


Fig.  20.  Fig.  21. 

The  shoe  is  nailed  to  the  hoof  in  the  ordinary  manner  (Fig.  22). 
For  saddle  and  light  carriage-horses,  I  have  usually  found  four 
nails — two  on  each  side — for  each  shoe  sufficient.  These  should 
be  placed  wide  apart  at  the  toe  and  rather  close  to  the  heel 
(Fig.  23,  a,  b).  Every  nail  must  be  driven  in  sound  horn,  other- 
wise the  shoe,  being  so  narrow,  may  get  the  branch  bent  out,  and 
nothing  more  is  needed  than  to  lay  the  clenches  down  evenly  on  the 
wall.  No  rasping  is  required.  When  the  shoe  is  attached  to  the 
foot,  we  then  perceive  that  a  portion  of  the  sole  and  bars,  and 
the  whole  of  the  frog,  meet  the  ground  as  in  the  unshod  state 
(Fig.  23). 

The  great  advantages  of  this  method  of  shoeing  consist  in  its 
simplicity,  when  farriers  have  been  made  to  understand  it ;  its- 


206 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


placing  the  hoof  in  a  natural  condition,  so  far  as  its  ground-face 
s  concerned ;  the  small  number  and  size  of  the  nails  required 


Fig.  22. 
to  retain  it ;  the  lightness  of  the  shoe,  and  the  security  it  gives 
to  the  horse  in  progression. 

Since    ts  introduction  by  M.  Charlier,  I  have  tried  this  method 


Fig. 23. 
on    a    large    number    of    horses    of    various    sizes,    and    which 
have  been  employed  for  hunting/; road,  carriage,  and  draught, 


HORSE-SHOEING.  207 

and  am  perfectly  satisfied  that  it  is  a  valuable  accessory  mode  of* 
defending  and  preserving  the  hoofs,  and  remedying  their  diseases 
or  defects.  It  cannot  "be  applied  indiscriminately  to  every  foot, 
and  to  make  the  groove  in  the  hoof  and  fit  the  shoe  accurately, 
requires  some  care.  When  the  horn  and  metal  are  combined  in 
this  way,  it  is  somewhat  astonishing  for  how  long  a  period  a  very 
light  rim  will  sustain  wear  even  on  hard  roads. 

I  have  not  tried  the  shoe  on  the  hind-feet,  because  I  do  not 
think  it  so  well  adapted  for  them ;  as  before  mentioned,  the  front- 
feet  only  demand  all  our  attention. 

WINTEE  SROEINQ. 

In  such  a  variable  climate  as  ours,  it  is  not  an  easy  matter  to 
provide  economically  and  successfully  for  the  occurrence  of  frost 
and  snow  during  the  winter  months,  so  far  as  shoeing  in  con- 
cerned. Some  winters  are  so  mild  that  there  is  no  necessity  for 
making  any  difference  in  the  shoe,  while  others  are  so  severe,  and 
the  roads  are  covered  with  ice  for  such  a  long  period,  that  special 
appliances  must  be  resorted  to  if  the  services  of  horses  are  to  be 
made  at  all  available. 

To  be  generally  useful,  these  appliances  must  be  cheap  and 
simple. 

The  quickest,  cheapest,  but  at  the  same  time  least  durable  of 
these,  is  the  "  frost-nail."  This  is  nothing  more  than  the  ordi- 
nary horse-shoe  nail,  with  its  head  flattened  gradually  to  a  thin 
edge.  Two  or  three  of  the  nails  are  withdrawn  from  each  side  of 
the  shoe,  and  replaced  by  the  frost-nails.  The  heads  may  be 
flattened  in  different  directions,  according  to  circumstancess. 
Sometimes  the  heads  are  of  steel,  when  of  course  they  are  more 
lasting.  For  short  journeys,  frost-nails  are  useful  and  easily 
available  ;  but  as  they  only  last  for  a  brief  period,  and  as  their 
frequent  removal  injures  the  hoof  to  some  extent,  they  are  only 


208  HORSE-SHOEING. 

to  be  used  when  the  services  of  the  horse  are  not  likely  to  be  in 
great  demand  for  any  length  of  time,  or  when  the  frost  promises 
to  be  very  transient.  They  are  best  adapted  for  saddle  and  car- 
riage-horses. To  prevent  injury  to  the  hoof,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  obtain  all  the  advantages  of  frost-nails,  I  have  often,  in 
the  winter-season,  had  extra  holes  punched  in  the  shoes — one  at 
the  extremity  of  each  heeL  and  one  on  each  side  of  the  toe. 
These  nail-holes  were  large,  and  were  stamped  so  obliquely  out- 
ward that  the  frost-nails,  when  the  occasion  required  them,  could 
be  passed  through  them  and  lapped  firmly  over  the  edge  of  the 
shoe  without  interfering  with  the  hoof.  They  may  be  made  alto- 
gether of  soft  steel,  the  heads  alone  being  tempered.  I  have 
found  this  plan  most  convenient  and  effective,  as  the  hoof  and 
shoe  are  not  disturbed,  and  the  nails  can  be  renewed  as  often  as 
may  be  necessary. 

The  usual  plan  is  to  remove  the  shoes  from  the  hoofs  and  give 
them  sharpened  calkins,  and  it  may  be  toe-pieces  also  sharp. 
This  is  not  a  good  fashion  if  it  has  to  be  often  repeated,  as  the 
hoofs  are  damaged  by  the  frequent  nailing,  the  horses  are  apt  to 
be  lamed,  and  the  shoes  to  become  loose.  It  is  for  the  time  being, 
however,  very  effective.  When  the  calks  and  toe-pieces  are  only 
made  of  iron,  and  if  the  ground  be  not  covered  with  a  sufficient 
layer  of  snow  to  protect  them  to  some  extent,  they  soon  become 
blunted,  and  the  shoes  then  require  to  be  taken  off  and  the  pro- 
cess repeated.  To  remedy  this,  if  time  permits,  it  is  an  excellent 
plan  to  weld  in  the  calkin,  or  toe-piece,  or,  on  the  face  of  the 
shoe,  a  piece  of  steel  (Figs.  24,  25  a),  which,  when  sharpened  and 
tempered,  lasts  a  very  considerable  time. 

In  sharpening  the  calkins,  regard  must  be  had  to  their  situ- 
ation— that  on  the  outside  heel  may  be  flattened  across  the  branch 
of  the  shoe  (Fig.  26),  but  that  on  the  inside  must  be  drawn  as 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


20!) 


much  as  possible  from  the  outer  niargiu  of  the  branch  (Fig.  27), 
in  order  to  avoid  treads  and  wounds  to  the  opposite  foot. 


Fig.  24. 


Fig.  25. 


As  a  rule,  it  is  better  that  toe-pieces  of  the  same  height  as  the 
calkins  be  used  on  all  shoes,  to  keep  the  foot  and  limb  from 
being  injured. 

The  Canadian  shoe,  made  of  steel,  concave  on  the  ground-sur- 
face, with  the  concavity  forming  a  sharp  edge  on  the  margin,  is 


^^^ZZJZZZ 


Fig.  26. 


Fig.  27. 


very  useful  when  there  is  a  thick  layer  of  ice  with  snow. 

But  perhaps  the  most  useful  and  expeditious  method  of  making 
the  horse  useful  on  ice-covered  roads  is  by  the  adoption  of  the 
screw  studs.  For  these,  each  new  shoe,  at  the  commencement  of 
the  winter,  has  a  circular  hole  punched  at  the  heels  and  another 
at  the  toe.  This  is  screwed,  and  into  it  is  fitted,  for  ordinary 
wear,  a  flat-headed  stud  (Fig.  28),  which  is  turned  in  with  a 
wrench.  These  studs  last  for  some  time,  and  preserve  the  shoe 
from  wear.  When  worn  nearly  to  the  level  of  the  shoe,  they  are 
removed  and  replaced  by  new  ones.  Should  frost  set  in  sud- 
denly, the  flat-headed  studs  have  only  to  be  removed  by  the 
groom  when  the  horse  is  required,  and  sharp  steel  ones  sub- 
stituted. This  can  be  done  in  a  few  minutes. 
N 


210  HORSE-SHOEING. 

The  usual  shape  of  the  sharp  stud  is  that  of  a  wedge,  the 
screwed  portion  being  much  smaller  than  that  projecting  beyond 
the  shoe.  This  is  a  faulty  conformation,  which  leads  to  the  stud 
frequently  working  itself  loose  and  falling  out,  or  breaking  off  at 
the  neck,  leaving  the  screwed  portion  in  the  shoe. 

For  some  years  I  have  remedied  this  defect  by  employing  steel 
frost-studs  of  a  conical  or  pyramidal  shape,  and  having  the 
portion  screwed  into  the  shoe  as  thick  as  that  projecting  from  it 
(Fig.  29).  This  pattern  is  not  at  all  liable  to  turn  round  and  fall 
out  on  meeting  the  ground  ;  while,  being  the  same  thickness 
throughout,  there  is  no  check  at  the  screw  to  weaken  the  stud  ; 
consequently,  it  does  not  break  if  carefully  forged  and  tempered. 


Fig.  29. 

Of  all  the  appliances  designed  to  enable  horses  to  travel  safely 
on  ice,  without  taking  them  to  the  forge,  or  requiring  the  services 
of  the  farrier,  none  have  stood  the  test  of  trial  so  satisfactorily  as 
this  screw  stud.  I  have  experimented  with  all  the  recent  inven- 
tions, but  have  found  them  either  too  complicated  or  expensive— 
not  fit  for  severe  work,  or  else  only  adapted  for  shoes  of  one 
pattern. 


SHOEING   OF   DEFECTIVE    LIMBS. 

Shoeing  is  a  powerful  auxiliary  in  the  hands  of  a  competent 
farrier  for  remedying  the  natural  defects  which  are  not  unfre- 
quently  observed  in  the  position  of  the  limbs  and  feet  of  horses  ; 
while  with  the  scientific  veterinary  surgeon  it  is  no  less  a  most 


HORSE-SHOEING  211 

potent  aid  in  curing  or  palliating  certain  maladies  or  deformities 
of  a  special  character. 

Perhaps  the  most  frequent  defects  the  farrier  has  to  contend 
with,  are  turning  out  or  turning  in  the  toe  of  the  foot ;  both  of 
which  are  not  only  unsightly,  but  are  productive  of  more  or  less 
injury  to  the  limb  from  the  unequal  manner  in  which  some  of  its 
parts  have  then  to  sustain  the  weight  of  the  body. 

To  rectify  the  leg  or  foot  when  the  toe  turns  outward,  the  hoof 
should  be  levelled  as  before  described,  the  margin  of  the  wall  at 
the  outside  toe  and  back  nearly  to  the  quarter  being  well  reduced 
and  rounded.  The  clip  is  to  be  drawn  up  nearer  to  the  inside 
than  the  middle  of  the  toe ;  the  shoe  to  be  fitted  close  to  the 
outside  and  quarter,  but  the  inside,  from  the  quarter  to  the  heel, 
should  be  more  full  than  usual.  In  the  course  of  several  shoeings, 
by  this  reduction  of  the  wall  at  the  outside  of  the  hoof  and  the 
fitting  of  the  shoe,  a  most  notable  improvement  will  be  effected. 

When  the  toe  is  turned  inward,  precisely  the  reverse  treatment 
must  be  followed ;  the  inside  toe  must  be  reduced,  the  clip  of  the 
shoe  formed  near  the  outside  toe,  and  the  shoe  itself  fitted  close 
at  the  inside  toe,  but  wide  at  the  outside.  In  both  cases  the 
shoes  ought  to  be  of  the  same  thickness  throughout. 

"  Cutting,"  or  striking  and  wounding  the  inner  side  of  the  leg 
with  the  opposite  foot,  is  sometimes  a  cause  of  much  annoyance 
It  may  be  due  to  weakness,  fatigue,  or  to  a  sudden  change  in  the 
manner  of  shoeing  ;  in  which  cases  it  is  only  temporary.  But  it 
may  also  arise  from  malformed  limbs  or  faulty  action,  and  these 
defects  may  be  so  exaggerated  as  to  be  scarcely,  if  at  all,  remedied 
by  shoeing  alone. 

The  usual  part  of  the  hoof  with  which  the  horse  strikes  the 
opposite  limb,  is  the  inside  toe  or  quarter.  Whichever  of  these 
regions  it  may  be,  the  hoof  must  continue  to  be  levelled  at  right 


212  HORSE-SHOEING. 

angles  to  the  direction  of  the  pastern,  and  a  shoe  equally  thick 
throughout  applied,  the  only  difference  between  it  and  the 
ordinary  shoe  being  the  removal  of  a  portion  of  the  iron  from  the 
margin  at  a  point  corresponding  to  the  portion  that  causes  the 
injury  to  the  opposite  limb ;  or  the  shoe,  instead  of  being  nar- 
rowed in  the  branch  at  this  part,  may  be  straightened,  so  as  to 
lie  within  the  hoof.  IN  o  nails  are  to  be  inserted  here  ;  they  may 
be  placed  in  front  of,  and  behind  the  striking  portion — at  the  toe 
and  heel.  The  hoof,  after  the  application  of  the  shoe,  may  then 
be  reduced  at  the  quarter  with  the  rasp,  to  diminish  its  convexity, 
and  thus  avert  "  cutting"  or  striking. 

The  periplantar  method  of  shoeing  is  well  adapted  for  horses 
that  'f  cut." 

Some  horses  have  the  awkward  habit  of  lying  like  a  cow  with 
one  or  both  fore-legs  doubled  up  at  the  knee,  and  the  elbow 
resting  on  the  heel  of  the  foot.  Should  the  ordinary  shoes  be 
worn,  it  almost  inevitably  follows  that  the  ends  of  the  branches 
pressing  upon  the  elbows  will  cause  the  formation  of  a  large, 
unsightly  tumour,  which  may  in  time  become  an  abcess  or  ulcer- 
ate. The  prevention  of  this  is  in  the  hands  of  the  farrier,  who 
has  only  to  shorten  and  smoothly  round  the  extremities  of  the 
shoe,  so  as  to  keep  them  within  the  hoof.  Most  frequently  it  is 
the  inside  heel,  in  which  case  a  three-quarter  shoe  at  once 
remedies  the  evil. 

GENEEAL  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  HOESE'S 
EOOT 

After  what  has  been  said  with  regard  to  the  management  of 
the  horse's  foot  in  shoeing,  there  is  but  little  to  add  concerning 
its  general  treatment;  as  shoeing  influences  more  or  less, 
for  good  or  for  evil,  the  general  condition  of  that  organ,  and 


HORSE-SHOEING.  213 

renders   its   ordinary   management   either  a  matter  of  much  or 
trifling  moment. 

When  it  has  been  robbed  of  its  horn  by  the  farrier,  and 
brought  to  such  an  artificial  and  abnormal  state  as  we  have 
indicated,  then  its  preservation  is  anything  like  a  healthy  or 
efficient  condition  is  a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty,  and  appears 
sometimes  to  demand  very  curious  and  often  by  no  means  reason- 
able practices  on  the  part  of  the  groom. 

The  most  common  are :  applying  to  the  face  of  the  wall  tar, 
oil,  fish-oil,  or  advertised  mixtures  of  various  kinds  to  make  the 
horn  grow,  prevent  brittleness,  cure  diseases,  etc.;  and  to  the 
sole  plates  of  leather,  bolsters  of  tow  steeped  in  tar,  filthy  appli- 
cations of  cow-dung,  mud  or  clay,  and  other  matters. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  to  the  unpared  and  un- 
rasped  hoof  these  are  not  only  unnecessary,  but  some  of  them 
even  positively  hurtful.  Oil,  for  instance,  not  only  renders  the 
wall  brittle,  but  loosens  then  nails ;  while  cow -dung,  from  the 
ammonia  it  contains,  destroys  the  frogs. 

The  unmutilated  hoof  is  easily  kept  in  health.  All  it  requires 
is  keeping  eool,  and  moistening  occasionally  with  cold  water 
during  hot  weather  or  after  severe  exertion.  When  a  journey 
has  been  long  continued  and  severe,  the  horse  should  not  be 
immediately  put  into  a  stable,  but  ought  to  be  walked  gently 
about  until  the  circulation  of  blood  in  the  feet  has  had  time  to 
accommodate  itself  to  the  altered  conditions  of  rest.  By  this 
means  iaminitis  (inflammation  of  the  feet)  is  averted. 

In  washing  the  hoofs  a  water  brush  should  not  be  employed, 
but  a  soft  sponge,  with  a  view  to  prevent  the  translucent  horn  on 
the  front  of  the  wall  being  destroyed. 

The   sides   and  clefts   of  the   frog  may  be  cleaned  out  occa- 


214  HORSE-SHOEING. 

siortally  with  a  blunt  picker,   though  if   sound  this  is  scarcely 
required. 

Nothing  more  is  needed,  so  far  as  the  every-day  stable  manage- 
ment of  the  foot  is  concerned,  except  to  caution  the  groom 
against  cutting  away  the  hair  immediately  above  the  coronet,  as 
this  acts  like  a  thatch  in  preserving  the  frog-band  at  its  com- 
mencement from  the  effects  of  perspiration  and  moisture. 

Much  harm  is  done  to  horses'  legs  and  feet  by  the  somewhat 
cruel  custom  of  keeping  them,  while  in  the  stable,  constantly 
tied  up  in  one  position  in  stalls  with  sloping  floors.  This  fashion 
is  not  only  entirely  opposed  to  the  animal's  natural  habits — for 
the  horse  loves  to  move  about  and  change  his  attitude — but  the 
limbs  and  feet,  more  especially  the  front  ones,  are,  instead  of 
being  rested,  greatly  fatigued ;  and  this  brings  about  alterations 
which  may  be  none  the  less  serious  because  they  are  not  imme- 
diate in  their  effects. 

A.  loose  box,  even  if  no  larger  than  a  stall,  with  a  level  floor,  is 
infinitely  preferable,  and  by  all  means  to  be  commended  to  those 
who  place  some  value  on  the  soundness  of  body,  eyesight,  and 
limbs  of  their  horses,  as  well  as  on  their  comfort. 

STREETS    AND    ROADS. 

The  roads  over  which  horses  travel  have  also  much  influence 
for  good  or  evil  on  the  condition  of  the  feet  and  legs.  In  the 
majority  of  the  towns  and  cities  in  Great  Britain,  it  would  most 
certainly  appear  that  considerations  for  the  safety,  comfort,  or 
efficiency  of  the  thousands  of  horses  in  daily  use  were  altogether 
lost  sight  of  or  neglected  in  constructing  the  public  thorough- 
fares. 

Masses  of  the  hardest  and  closest-grained  stone  are  laid 
down  in  most  streets  in  such  a  fashion  that  they  seem  as  if  pur- 
posely designed  to  afford  an  insecure  foothold,  and  present  the 


HORSE-SHOEING.  215 

horse's  strength  being  profitably  utilized.  These  paved  streets — 
always  a  source  of  danger  to  the  animals — while  hindering  them 
from  employing  their  force  to  the  best  advantage,  are  also  par- 
ticularly injurious  to  the  legs  and  feet,  from  the  incessant  efforts 
made  to  maintain  a  footing.  More  especially  is  this  the  case  in 
wet  wether,  when  they  are  covered  with  greasy  mud,  and  in 
summer  when  their  dry,  smooth  surface  becomes  leaded.  It  is 
needless  to  say,  that  no  kind  of  metal  defence  to  the  hoof  will  for 
many  days  insure  a  firm  foot-hold  on  such  roads;  and  nothing 
but  a  metal  defence  has  ever  been  found  suitable  to  the  horse's 
foot. 

Every  device  has  been  tried  to  meet  the  demands  for  traveling 
with  safety  on  such  paved  streets,  and  none  have  proved  success- 
ful. Nor  is  it  at  all  likely  that  future  inventions  will  meet  these 
demands  ;  the  basaltic  or  granitic  surface,  perfectly  smooth,  and 
offering  a  most  insecure  surface  for  fixing  the  foot  during  move- 
ment, is  not  at  all  adapted  for  horse  traffic. 

From  the  durability  of  these  roads,  they  may  be,  to  those  who 
have  to  pay  for  their  construction  and  maintenance,  more  econo- 
mical than  others  on  which  horses  can  journey  with  ease  and 
without  risk  of  falling  down ;  but  they  are  far  from  being  econo- 
mical to  those  whose  carriages  and  wagons  traverse  them.  A 
portion  of  the  horse's  motive  power  is  devoted  to  maintaining  his 
foothold,  and  the  fear  induced  by  this  insecurity  operates  against 
what  remains  being  applied  as  profitably  as  it  ought  to  be.  So 
that  less  is  gained  in  the  economy  of  construction  and  durability, 
and  in  the  easier  traction  of  vehicles,  than  is  lost  in  the  injury 
done  to  the  horse's  extremities,  and  the  waste  of  power  required 
to  maintain  the  equilibrium. 

Even  more  injurious  to  feet  and  limbs  is  the  barbarous, 
slovenly,  and  stupid  method  prevailing  in  this  country  of  repair- 


216  HORSE-SHOEING. 

nig  macadamized  roads — or  what  are  intended  for  them — by 
depositing  a  heap  of  angular  stones  in  a  loose,  rugged  layer  of 
uncertain  depth,  and  compelling  horses  and  carriages  to  travel 
over  them  until  they  are  imbedded  in  a  very  irregular  manner  in 
the  soil  beneath  them.  Such  a  practice  is  not  only  extremely 
short-sighted  on  the  part  of  those  who  make  or  repair  roads  in 
this  manner — as  these  roads  can  neither  be  durable  nor  very  ser- 
viceable— but  also  deserves  the  severest  censure  as  most  cruel  and 
destructive  to  horses.  Not  only  is  the  labor  in  drawing  a  carriage 
over  such  a  surface  immensely  increased,  and  the  horse's  strength 
thereby  expended,  but  the  unstable  footing  afforded  by  the  loose 
masses  of  stone  throws  a  great  strain  in  every  direction  upon  the 
legs  and  feet,  and  not  unfrequently  the  animal  is  thrown  down* 
and  gets  seriously  injured  or  blemished  for  life. 

If  the  hoofs  chance  to  be  pared  and  rasped  according  to  the 
the  groom  or  farrier's  "  improved  principles,"  then  the  conse- 
quences are  greatly  aggravated. 

Legislation  should  be  appealed  to,  to  put  an  end  to  such  a. 
disgraceful  method  of  road-making  or  mending,  which  is  only 
worthy  of  the  most  uncivilized  country. 

The  best  mode  of  constructing  and  repairing  our  public 
thoroughfares  and  highways,  with  a  view  not  only  to  economy, 
but  to  the  safety  and  comfort  of  horses,  is  a  matter  that  deserves 
serious  attention. 

Taken  in  connection  with  our  subject,  it  is  one  that  cannot  be 
overlooked.  We  may  preserve  and  defend  the  horse's  foot  to  the 
best  of  our  ability  in  our  forges  and  stables,  but  if  the  roads  over 
which  he  travels  are  not  adapted  to  his  employment,  our  exertions 
on  his  behalf  can  only  be  partially  successful. 


HORSE-SHOEING.  **■' 


INSTRUCTION  OF  FARRIERS. 

The  foregoing  instructions  relative  to  shoeing  are,  in  substance, 
those  which  I  have  been  in  the  habit,  for  several  years  of  laying 
before  the  farriers  in  the  different  regiments  in  which  I  have 
served,  and  with  an  amount  of  success  which  amply  rewarded  me 
for  the  trouble  I  took  to  see  that  they  were  carried  into  practice. 
Not  only  have  my  own  duties  been  considerably  lightened  in  the 
greatly  diminished  number  of  lame  and  unserviceable  horses,  but 
the  labors  of  the  farriers  have  been  considerably  abbreviated  and 
simplified,  and  by  their  being  able  to  understand  the  reasons  for 
acting  as  I  desired,  their  intelligence  was  awakened,  and  they 
took  an  interest  in  carrying  out  my  views. 

In  our  army  this  is  not  always  the  case.  The  subject  of  farriery 
is  often  looked  upon  much  as  it  is  in  civil  life— as  a  matter  that 
concerns  the  farrier  only,  and  tradition   and   routine  extensively 
prevail.     In  saying  this,  however,  I  do  not  intend  for  a  moment 
to   insinuate  that   the   army  veterinary  surgeons  are  averse   to 
giving  their  attention  to  a  most  important,  though  it  may  appear 
a  minor,  part  of  their  duty.     On  the  Contrary,  many  of  them  do 
so,  and  with  the  greatest  advantage  to  the  service;  but  there  is 
not  the  same  encouragement  offered  either  to  veterinary  surgeons 
or  farriers  in  this  respect  as  there  is  in  Continental  armies.     In 
the  French  army,  for  instance,  there  are  schools  and  professors 
of  farriery,  the  most  notable  of  these  being  at  the  cavalry  school 
of  Saumur.     In  these,  the  farriers  are  regularly  trained  to  a  uni- 
form and  approved  system  before  being  posted  to  different  regi- 
ments, and  direct  encouragement  is  given  to  these  men  by  the 
institution  of  competitions,  in  which  the  most  successful  are  re- 
warded by  medals  and  gifts  of  money. 

But  not  only  does  the  French  Government  bestow  some  care  in 
the  advancement  of  farriery  in  the  army  ;  it  also  stimulates  com- 


218  HOUSE-SHOEING. 

petition  and  improvement  among  the  civilian  farriers.  So  late 
as  the  28th,  29th,  and  30th  April  last  (1870)  there  was  a  concours 
of  "  marechalerie  "  at  Valence,  divided  into  two  sections — a  civil 
and  military,  presided  over  by  two  special  juries  composed  of 
eminent  veterinary  surgeons  and  professors. 

At  this  concours  not  only  were  models  of  shoes  and  shod  hoofs 
exhibited,  but  the  farriers — civil  and  military — were  tested  in 
the  various  operations  of  farriery  on  the  spot,  by  shoeing  saddle, 
carriage,  and  draught-horses,  draught  and  pack-mules,  and  oxen. 
A  large  number  of  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  medals,  as  well  as  a 
considerable  sum  of  money,  were  given  away. 

These  concours  cannot  but  effect  much  good,  by  attracting 
attention  to  this  very  important  subject,  and  encouraging  good 
workmen. 

In  Belgium  there  are  also  concours  and,  if  I  remember  aright, 
farriers  who  attend  them  receive  instruction  from  properly-quali- 
fied veterinary  surgeons,  who  are  authorized  to  grant  certificates 
of  proficiency. 

In  both  countries,  as  well  as  in  Germany,  the  students  at  the 
veterinary  schools  are  taught  the  principles  and  practice  of 
shoeing,  and  this  instruction  is  of  great  value  to  them  in  after- 
life. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  in  this  country  nothing  of 
the  kind  is  attempted. 

The  Government  does  nothing  to  improve  or  encourage  veteri- 
nary science  in  any  way ;  hence  the  low  state  of  this  important 
branch  of  medicine  and  rural  economy  in  Britain,  and  hence 
the  enormous  losses  she  has  sustained  for  so  many  years. 
Hence,  also,  the  degraded  and  barbarous  condition  of  far- 
riery, even  in  our  cities  and  towns.  With  the  exception  of, 
on  very  rare  occasions,  the  distribution  of  a  prize  or  two  at  some 


30RSE-SHOEING. 


219 


local  agricultural  show  to  farriers,  who  imagine  that  paring  and 
rasping,  and  a  fantastically-wrought  piece  of  iron,  constitute  the 
acme  of  shoeing,  the  subject  is  thought  unworthy  of  notice. 
Even  at  the  veterinary  schools,  during  my  matriculation,  it  was 
dismissed  in  a  brief  lecture  of  an  hour,  and  then  pathological 
shoeing  was  chiefly  referred  to.  Nothing  of  the  principles  or 
practice  was  ever  taught. 

When  the  Veterinary  Colleges  are  so  indifferent  to  a  matter 
so  closely  related  to  the  comfort  and  efficiency  of  the  horse,  we 
cannot  wonder  that  veterinary  siirgeons,  as  a  rule,  and  farriers, 
take  but  little  interest  in  shoeing. 

The  remedy  for  this,  of  course,  should  be,  in  the  first  place, 
applied  to  the  teaching-schools.  The  anatomy  and  physiology 
of  the  horse's  foot,  its  management  in  health  and  disease,  and 
the  principles  and  practices  of  shoeing,  ought  to  be  thoroughly 
inculcated. 

It  would  be  most  advantageous  if,  when  this  course  was 
adopted,  farriers  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  attend,  and,  after 
due  examination  as  to  their  competency  to  practice  their  art 
in  a  rational  manner,  they  were  to  receive  certificates  of  pro- 
ficiency as  in  Belgium— these  certificates  carrying  with  them 
similar  advantages  to  those  that  the  diploma  of  surgery  confers 
upon  the  surgeon. 

In  default  of  this,  veterinary  surgeons  properly  qualified  for 
the  duty,  and  possessing  the  necessary  convenience  and  oppor- 
tunity, might  be  induced  to  receive  and  instruct  apprentices  in 
farriery,  granting  them  authorised  certificates  when  judged  to 
be  fit  to  practice  the  art. 

Agricultural  meetings  should  also  be  made  the  means  of  in- 
structing farriers  in  shoeing,  and  of  stimulating  competition  in 
the  districts  in  which  they  are  held.  Of  course  it  is  a  sine  qua, 
non  that  the  instructors  and  judges  should  themselves  understand 
the  subject  thoroughly. 


220  HORSE -SHOEING. 

These  are  the  only  means  "by  which,  I  believe,  the  art  of 
farriery  can  be  improved  in  this  country,  where  nearly  all  im- 
provement is  left  to  private  enterprize.  A  profound  knowledge 
of  the  anatomy  and  physiology  of  the  horse's  foot  is  not  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  farrier.  What  I  have  sketched  out  on  these 
subjects  in  this  essay,  I  have  generally  found  sufficient  to  enable 
my  farriers  to  comprehend  the  character  of  the  organ  they  were 
called  upon  to  protect  and  preserve,  and  this  much  was  easily 
taught  them  in  a  short  time.  I  have  always  had  more  difficulty 
in  making  them  unlearn  their  unreasonable  practices  than 
acquiring  those  which 'were  novel,  though  easier  ;  and  my  chief 
antagonists  in  all  improvements  have  been  the  ignorant 
grooms  and  coachmen — the  lovers  of  well-pared  and  rasped  hoofs, 
oiled  or  blacked  like  a  boot ;  hot  stables  ;  physic  ;  bearing  reins  ; 
blinkers  ;  cruppers ;  powerful  bits ;  and  everything,  in  fact, 
unnatural  and  injurious  to  the  horse. 


CONCLUDING  EEMAEKS   ON   SHOEING. 

Notwithstanding-  that  we  have  given  a  long  and  valuable  essay 
on  the  shoeing  of  horses,  and  have  had  something  to  say  about 
them  going  barefooted,  we  still  have  something  more  to  say  on 
this  subject. 

There  is  more  damage  done  to  horses  from  shoeing  than  by 
letting  them  go  without  shoes  ;  and  we  would  have  the  reader  to 
understand  that  we  are  speaking  from  experience,  and  not  theory. 
We  have  handled  hundreds  of  wild  horses,  of  all  ages,  that  never 
had  a  shoe  on  their  feet,  and  we  never  have  seen  one  lame, 
because  the  sole,  frog  and  wall  sustained  a  certain  portion  of  the 
weight ;  but  when  the  shoe  is  put  on  in  the  old  way,  having  it 
bear  on  the  wall  only,  the  sole  and  frog  are  not  allowed  to  come 
in  contact  with  the  ground,  so  that  they  have  no  labor  to  perform, 
and  will  soon  become  dormant  and  diseased. 

If  a  horse  that  has  been  shod  for  years  in  this  way  loses  his 
shoe,  and  is  compelled  to  walk  on  the  frog  and  sole,  he  will  get 
lame  very  soon,  from  the  fact  that  the  portion  of  his  foot  that 
has  been  idle  many  years  is  brought  into  use.  The  wall  is 
diseased  also  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  will  break  off  easily, 
thus  letting  the  sensitive  laminae  of  the  foot  come  in  contact  with 
the  grouud,  causing  instant  lameness.  We  will  give  you  an 
illustration  :  Suppose  you  should  place  your  arm  in  a  sling  and 
tie  it  to  your  body  for  six  months,  without  using  it  at  all,  and 
then  take  it  out,  attempting  to  use  it.  Do  you  suppose  you 
could  use  it  like  the  one  that  has  been  in  exercise  all  the  time  ? 
Most  assuredly  not. 

By  the  same  principle,  it  will  disable  the  horse  to  have  his 
weight  to  come  on  the  sole  and  frog  of  his  foot  after  being  idle 
for  years,  by  being  shod  in  the  manner  we  have  mentioned.  The 
frog  that  is  kept  off  the  ground  by  this  method  of  shoeing  without 


222  HORSE-SHOEING. 

ever  having  the  pressure  that  nature  intended  should  come  on  it, 
will  become  unable  to  sustain  the  horse's  weight  when  the  shoe  is 
taken  off. 

So  while  we  would  advise  the  abolition  of  shoeing  as  far  as 
possible,  we  have  too  much  knowledge  of  the  horse's  foot  to  advise 
it  in  every  case.  There  are  some  horses  that  have  been  shod  so 
long  that  their  feet  are  in  such  a  horrible  condition  that  it  would 
not  do  at  all.  But  there  is  no  danger  of  driving  or  working  a 
colt,  even  on  hard  roads,  without  shoes,  provided  the  wear  of  the 
wall  of  the  foot  is  npt  greater  than  the  growth. 

I  have  driven  colts  over  hard  roads  and  pavements  for  many- 
months  at  a  time,  and  they  never  gave  any  evidence  of  lameness. 
But  if  those  colts  had  been  shod  for  a  year  or  two,  in  the  faulty 
manner  described,  and  then  had  their  shoes  taken  off,  they  would 
have  become  lame  in  a  very  short  time. 

If  the  colt  must  be  shod,  we  would  advise  the  use  of  the  shoe 
illustrated  on  the  first  page  of  the  essay  on  horse-shoeing.  If 
this  shoe  is  properly  adjusted  and  fitted,  we  are  satisfied  the  foot 
will  never  become  diseased  from  shoeing,  because  it  comes  nearer 
to  nature,  and  it  is  impossible  to  improve  on  nature. 

"We  will  now  have  a  word  to  say  to  the  farrier  or  smith  :  When 
horses  are  brought  to  them  that  are  mischievous  and  bad  to  shoe, 
and  they  have  to  break  the  horse  to  stand  quiet  as  well  as  to  fit 
the  shoes,  we  would  advise  them  to  charge  the  owner  for  breaking 
the  horse  as  well  as  for  shoeing,  for  we  consider  it  an  imposition 
on  the  blacksmith  to  bring  him  such  horses  to  be  shod.  Time  is 
money  to  the  blacksmith  as  well  as  to  the  owner  of  the  horse. 
However,  if  it  is  necessary  to  break  the  horse  to  stand  quiet 
while  being  shod,  it  is  only  a  matter  of  a  few  minutes  to  break 
him. 

Fix  him  in  the  same  position  and  handle  him  all  over  and  about 


HORSE-SHOEING.  223 

the  leo-s  with  the  pole,  as  directed  in  the  lesson  for  breaking 
the  colt.  When  he  submits  to  being  handled  all  over  with  the 
pole,  and  before  untying  his  head  from  his  tail,  pick  up  his  leg, 
and  if  he  should  kick,  give  him  a  little  more  whirling  round, 
which  will  make  him  giddy  and  will  finally  conquer  him. 

When  traveling  through  Pennsylvania,  I  came  across  a  horse 
that  was  considered  impossible  to  shoe  while  standing  on  his 
feet. 

The  only  way  this  horse  could  be  shod  was  by  thowing  him 
down  and  strapping  him.  All  the  known  methods  of  subduing 
the  horse  had  been  resorted  to,  in  a  vain  endeavor  to  quiet  and 
subdue  him  so  he  could  be  shod.  I  was  approached  by  the  owner 
and  asked  if  I  could  break  him  to  be  shod.  I  answered  «  Yes.'* 
He  then  offered  to  pay  me  25dols.  to  break  him  so  two  shoes  could 
be  placed  on  his  hind  feet.  This  happened  just  before  the  hour 
for  the  assembling  of  my  class. 

Immediately  after  my  class  met,  I  asked  several  of  them  if 
they  thought  the  owner  of  this  horse  would  pay  me  the  amount 
he  had  promised,  in  case  I  succeeded  in  the  undertaking,  to  which 
they  replied,  rt  We  think  he  will." 

Then  I  invited  the  owner  to  bring  in  Fhs  horse,  which  he  did, 
and  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  the  blacksmith  had  one  shoe  on, 
at  which  the  owner  remarked  : 

"  There's  twelve  dollars  and  a  half  gone  to  the  devil." 

I  don't  know  whether  he  meant  I  was  the  devil,  or  whether  he 
thought  he  was  foolish  for  making  me  the  proposition  to  pay 
25dols.  for  putting  on  two  shoes.  I  soon  had  the  other  shoe  on 
and  he  paid  me  the  25dols.,  for  which  I  thanked  him  and  pro- 
ceeded with  the  lesson. 

We  have  found  many  horses  fully  as  hard  to  shoe  as  the  one  we 
have  mentioned,  but  never  have  we  been  as  well  paid  as  we  were  for 
this  particular  one,  which  was  at  the  rate  of  50dols.  a  set,  and 
second-hand  shoes  at  that  ! 


224  HORSE-SHOEING. 

Our  experience  with  blacksmiths  during  our  travels  has  been 
that  most  of  them  oppose  any  new  ideas  that  may  be  advanced 
concerning  the  paring  and  preparing  of  the  horse's  foot  for  the 
application  of  the  shoe,  especially  if  not  in  accordance  with  the 
manner  in  which  they  have  been  taught ;  they  also  oppose  the 
use  of  any  shoe  that  is  foreign  to  their  ideas,  and  we  expect  many 
good  blacksmiths  and  numerous  horsemen  will  oppose  some  of  the 
ideas  advanced  in  this  book.  The  reader  will  bear  in  mind,  that 
at  one  time  it  was  the  belief,  both  among  the  scientific  and  the 
uninformed,  that  the  earth  was  flat,  and  that  the  sun  rose  in  the 
morning,  passing  over  the  earth  during  the  day  and  under  it  at 
night,  making  its  appearance  again  next  morning  in  the  East, 
thus  causing  us  to  have  night  and  day.  This  was  unquestionably 
Joshua's  idea  when  he  commanded  the  sun  to  stand  still. 

When  Galileo  advanced  the  idea,  in  the  year  1633,  that  the 
earth  was  round,  and  that  it  revolved  on  its  own  axis  every 
twenty-foiu-  hours,  and  thus  gave  us  the  night  and  the  day,  and 
not  the  sun  passing  over  the  earth,  he  was  obliged  to  read  his  re- 
cantation in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  Sopra  Minerva,  and  then 
received  his  sentence.  He  was  condemned,  as  e(  vehemently  sus- 
pected of  heresy,"  to  incarceration  at  the  pleasure  of  the  tribunal, 
and  by  way  of  penance,  was  enjoined  to  recite  once  a  week  the 
seven  Penitential  Psalms.  Finally,  he  was  given  some  freedom, 
but  eventually  died  after  spending  the  last  eight  years  of  his  life 
in  the  strict  retirement  which  was  the  prescribed  condition  of  his 
comparative  freedom. 

But  in  these  enlightened  days  every  one,  both  the  scientific  and 
the  unscientific,  believe  as  did  Galileo,  that  the  earth  is  round 
and  revolves  on  its  own  axis,  and  is  not  stationary  while  the  sun 
passes  over  it.  Nevertheless,  people  still  continue  to  condemn 
all  new  theories  and  methods  they  do  not  understand,  consequently 


PURCHASING   A   HORSE.  225 

we  anticipate  no   little   criticism    on   some   of  the   ideas  presented 
in  this  work. 

Course  to  be  pursued  in  Purchasing  a  Horse. 
First— Examine  the  eyes,  in  the  stable,  then  in  the  light;  if 
they  are  in  any  way  defective,  reject.  Second— Examine  the 
teeth  to  determine  the  age.  Third— Examine  the  poll,  or  crown 
of  the  head,  and  the  withers  or  top  of  the  shoulders,  as  the 
former  is  the  seat  of  poll-evil,  and  the  latter  that  of  fistula. 
Fourth— Examine  the  front  feet,  and  if  the  frog  has  fallen,  or  settled 
down  between  the  heels  of  the  shoe,  and  the  heels  are  contracted, 
reject  him  ;  as  he,  if  not  already  lame,  is  liable  to  become  so  at  any 
moment. 

Next  observe  the  knees  and  ankles  of  the  horse  you  desire  to  pur- 
chase, and  if  "cocked,"  you  may  be  sure  that  it  is  the  result 
of  the  displacement  of  the  internal  organs  of  the  foot,  a  con- 
sequence of  neglect  of  the  form  of  the  foot  and  injudicious 
shoeing.  If  these  defects  are  still  incipient,  and  the  owner  will  make 
a  liberal  reduction  in  the  price  on  this  account,  you  may  ven- 
ture  to  purchase,  as  this  may  readily  be  corrected  by  the  use 
of  a  shoe  that  will  expand  the  hoof.  Fifth— Examine  for  inter- 
fering, from  the  ankle  to  the  knees,  and  if  it  proves  that  he 
cuts  the  knee,  or  the  leg  between  the  knee  and  the  ankle,  or 
the  latter  badly,  reject. 

"  Speedy  cuts"   of   the  knee   and   leg   are  most   serious  in   their 
effects. 

Many  trotting  horses,  which  would  be  of  great  value  were  it  net  for 
this  single  defect,  are  by  it  rendered  valueless. 

Six— Carefully    examine    the    hoofs  for   cracks,  as  jockeys    have 
acquired  great  skill  in  concealing  them. 

If  cracks  are  observable  in  any  degree,  reject. 

Also,  both  look  and  feel  for  ringbones,  which  are  callouses  on  the 
bones  of  the  pastern  near  the  foot.     If  apparent,  reject. 


226  PUHCHASING  A    HOESE. 

Seven — Examine  the  hind  feet  for  the  same  defects  of  the  foot 
and  ankle  that  we  have  named  in  connection  with  the  front  foot. 
Then  proceed  to  the  hock,  which  is  the  seat  of  curb,  and  both  bone 
and  blood  spavins. 

The  former  is  a  bony  enlargement  of  the  posterior  and  lower 
portion  of  the  hock-joint  ;  the  second,  a  bony  excrescence  on  the 
lower,  inner,  and  rather  anterior  portion  of  the  hock,  and  the  latter 
is  a  soft  enlargement  of  the  synovial  membrane  on  the  inner  and 
upper  portion  of  the  back.  They  are  either  of  them  sufficient  reason 
for  rejecting. 


PROMISCUOUS    RECIPES. 


Sore  Tongue, 
Is  relieved  by  washing  with  strong  alum-water. 

Liquid  Blister. 
Take  1   pint  alcohol,  |  pint  turpentine,  4  oz.  ammonia,  4  oz.  oil 
origanum,  1  oz.  naptha.      Apply  this  with  sponge  every  three  hours 
until  you  feel  the  skin  thicken. 

Blistering  Paste. 
Take  4  oz.  pulverized  cantharides,  2  oz.  turpentine,  2  oz.  English 
resin,  2  oz.  beeswax  ;  melt  all  together  over  a  slow  fire  until  dissolved. 
Rub  it  on  well  with  the  fingers. 

Cough  Powder. 
Ginger,  fenugreek,  licorice,  blood-root,  equal  parts.      Half  propor- 
tion lobelia  and  camphor  may  be  added. 

Dose— Tablespoonful    twice    a    day.       For    Heaves,    add    more 
camphor. 

Cough   Cure. 

Resin  2oz- 

Bloodroot  1  oz- 

Tartar  Emetic   !  oz- 

Ginger  2  oz- 

Salts  of  Tartar  2  oz. 

Mix  and  give  teaspoonful  three  times  a  day  in  the  feed. 

Cough  Remedy. 
Put  all  the  tar  into  alcohol  it  will  cut,  and  add  one-third  quantity 
tincture  belladonna. 
Dose  :  From  one  to  two  teaspoonfuls  once  or  twice  a  day. 
It  is  a  splendid  remedy. 


228  PROMISCOTTS   RECIPES. 

Laxative  Alterative  Balls. 

Soft  Soap 4  oz. 

Common  Moss 24  oz. 

Aloes 4  oz. 

Dose — 1  oz. 

Diuretic  Alterative  Balls. 

Resin 2  oz. 

Licorice  Powder   i  oz. 

Castile  Soap  6  drams. 

Dried  Common  Soda  I  oz. 

Barbadoes  Tar t to  form  6  balls. 

Give  one  daily. 

Tonic  Ball  (Vegetable  Tonic). 

Opium  I  dram. 

Ginger H  dram. 

Peruvian  Bark 1  oz. 

Oil  of  Caraway 20  drops. 

Treacle  to  form  a  ball. 

Cooling  and  Diuretic  Drinh. 
One  ounce  of  nitre  dissolved  in  a  pail  of  water. 
Aromatic  Powder. 

Licorice  2  oz. 

Ginger 2  oz. 

Caraway  6  oz. 

Pimento  4  oz. 

Mix.     Dose  :  6  to  8  drams. 

Cordial  and  Anodyne  Ball. 

Camphor  .., 2  drams. 

Ginger ,  1|  drams. 

Castile  Soap 3drams. 

Venice  Turpentine 6  drams. 

Make  into  1  ball. 


PROMISCUOUS    EECIPES.  **» 

Diabetes  Remedy. 

Ginger  2  drams. 

Oak  Bark,  p 1  oz' 

Opium ldram- 

Decoction  of  Oak  Bark 1  pint. 

Tonic  Diuretic  Ball. 

Nitre 2  oz. 

Sulphate  of  Iron 2  drams. 

Gentian ldram. 

Eesin 2  oz. 

Ginger  i  dram. 

Mix  with  molasses. 

Fever  Balls. 

Ginger • 3  drams. 

Emetic  Tartar #  dram. 

Nitre 2  drams. 

Camphor £  dram. 

Mix  in  ball. 

Diuretic  Balls. 

Make  the  following  into    six  balls,  and  give  one  every  morning  or 
every  other  morning. 

Camphor 3  drams. 

Oil  of  Juniper  3  drams. 

Eesin 3oz- 

Nitre Boz- 

White  Soap 8  oz- 

Another — 

Equal   parts   of   Resin,    Soap    and   Nitre,    beaten   together   into  a 
mass. 

Dose  :  1  oz.  to  1|  oz. 


230  PROMISCUOUS    RECIPES. 

Mixed  Balls,  Cordial  Astringent  Balls. 

Catechu,  1  drain  ;   opium,  10  grains.     To  wash  horses  before   or 
after  a  journey. 

For  the  Appetite. 

Take   equal   parts  of   aloes,   bayberries,   assafcetida   and   saffron  ; 
make  into  a  mass  with  extract  of  gentian.     Dose,  1  oz. 

Cordial  Balls. 

No.  1 — Gentian  and  ginger,  equal  parts. 
Treacle  to  form  a  mass. 
Dose — 1  oz.  to  1^  oz. 

No.  2 — Caraway  and  ginger  each  41bs. 

Palm-oil 4^  lbs. 

Gentian 1  lb . 

Beat  together.     Dose — 1  oz.  to  lh  oz. 

Anodyne  Ball. 

Camphor 1  dram. 

Anise-seed I  oz. 

Opium £  to  1  dram. 

Soften  with  Ext.  of  Liquorice. 

Anodyne  Drenches. 

No.  1 — One  dram  opium,  dissolved,  £  pint  water ;  add  one  quart 
starch  gruel. 

No.  2 — Mix  sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  1£  oz.,  with  tincture  of  opium, 
1  oz.,  ess.  peppermint,  1  dram,  and  water.  1  pint. 

A  Splendid  Liniment. 

Oil  wormwood 1  oz. 

Oil  sassafras 1  oz. 

Oil  origanum 1  oz. 

Oil  juniper 1  oz. 


PBOMISCTTOUS    KECIPES.  231 

Oil  spruce     1  oz. 

Oil  chloroform     1  oz. 

Aqua 1  oz. 

Ammonia 1  oz. 

Tr.  iodine \  oz. 

Alcohol    2  pints. 

Gum  camphor ..2  oz. 

The  above  liniment  can  be  used  for  any  sprain-swelling  of  the  legs 
of  a  horse. 

Condition  Powders. 

Cream  of  tartar    16  oz. 

Powdered  gentian  root    8  oz. 

Sulphur  32  oz. 

Saltpetre  4  oz. 

Powdered  resin 16  oz. 

Black  antimony   4  oz. 

Powdered  ginger  12  oz. 

Powdered  elm-bark  16  oz. 

Powdered  fenugreek  seed     17  oz. 

Powdered  anise-seed  8  oz. 

Two  to  six  tablespoonsful  to  be  given  morning  and  eveniag.      A 
general  alterative  for  hide-bound,  etc. 

Condition  Powders 

Sulphur  10  ft. 

Saltpetre 10  1b. 

Powdered  fenugreek  seed  5  lb. 

„         licorice  root     5  ft. 

„         anise-seed 5  ft. 

Cream  tartar 2  ft. 

Pulverized  squills     lft. 

Tartar  emetic  1  oz. 

Dose — 1  to  3  tablespoonsful  3  times  a  day. 

An  excellent  remedy  when  there  is  cough  and  fever. 


232  PEOMISCUOFS   RECIPES. 

Hoof  Ointment  for  Cows  and  Horses,  to  Soften  and  Heal  Hoofs  and 
Cows'  Teats. 

Beef  Suet h  ft- 

Beeswax    i  ft- 

Honey    4  ft. 

Fine  Tar    1  pint. 

Whale  Oil 1  pint. 

This  ointment  has  been  used  extensively  throughout  the  United 
States,  with  uniform  success. 

Recipe  to  Soften  the  Horse's  Foot. 

Apply  a  poultice  of  2  qts.  linseed  meal,  2  qts.  rye  meal,  1  pt.  salt,. 
£  pt.  tar. 

Cooling  Lotion. 
One  pt.  of  Vinegar,  1  pt.  alcohol,  1  pt.  water,  and  i  pt.  of  salt. 

The  Use  of  the  Hook. 

The  hook  used  for  cleaning  the  soles  of  the  feet  is  a  common 
appendage  of  the  stables  in  many  districts,  especially  in  New  York 
and  New  England,  and  nowhere  have  we  found  feet  in  such  a  horrid 
condition.  The  sole  of  the  foot  of  the  wild  horse,  as  also  those  of 
the  domesticated  in  the  pasture,  we  generally  find  well  stuffed  with 
soil,  filling  all  the  depressions  in  it,  and  no  one  ever  saw  any  evil 
effects  from  this  natural  stuffing. 

But  little  sagacity  is  requisite  to  enable  us  to  learn  a  most  valuable 
lesson,  by  observing  the  natural  cause  and  effect  of  natural  stuffing 
on  the  feet,  If  we  had  a  stud  of  a  thousand  horses,  we  would  not 
allow  a  foot-hook  in  the  stable.  Snow-balls  should  be  jarred  out  of 
the  feet,  but  natural  clay  packing  is  useful ;  hence  it  should  not  be 
removed.  Anything  that  excludes  the  air  from  the  foot  of  the  horse 
is  useful,  and  it  is  to  this  effect  that  we  attribute  such  unprecedented 
success  in  the  use  of  our  hoof  preparation. 


HOW   TO    TEACH    HORSES    TRICKS. 


We  will  next  illustrate  the  methods  of  teaching  the  horse  to  lie 
down,  etc.,  as  practiced  by  circus-men  for  hundreds  of  years.  Tins 
method  is  the  same  as  used  by  Denton,  Offett,  Karey,  and  others 
engaged  in  the  business  of  taining|  horses.  They  ail  gained  a  great 
reputation  as  horse-tamers  in  consequence  of  these  supposed  new 
methods.     We  will  first  explain  how  to  apply  the  straps. 


Take  a  good  strong  strap,  about  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  long, 
such  as  used  for  a  breeching-strap,  with  a  slip-loop  on  it.  Put  the 
strap  around   the  pastern- joint  on  the  near  fore  leg,  and  buckle  his 


234  HOW    TO    TEACH    HOESES    TRICKS. 

foot  to  the  arm  as  shown  in  the  cut,  then  place  a  strong  girth  around 
his  body.  Fasten  a  small  strap  around  the  off  fore-foot — run  it 
between  the  horse's  body  and  the  girth  (see  cut).  Take  hold  of  your 
bridle-rein  with  your  left  hand,  and  the  strap  that  is  fastened  to  the 
off  foot  with  the  right  hand  firmly  ;  this  will  bring  him  on  his  knees. 
Hold  him  steadily,  and  in  a  few  moments  he  will  lie  down  ;  pull  his 
Tiead  around  to  the  off  side  so  as  to  bring  the  horse  down  on  his  near 
side  [see  cut],  and  when  he  comes  down  on  his  side,  bring  his  head 


up  to  his  off  shoulder  and  hold  him  in  this  way  until  he  gives  up, 
and  treat  him  kindly.  Then  unbuckle  the  strap  from  the  near  foot 
and  say  "  get  up."  Of  course  lie  will  not  understand  what  this 
means.  Urge  him  a  little,  so  he  will  understand  what  you  mean. 
Make  him  lie  down,  repeating  the  operation  of  getting  him  up  and 
down  a  number  of  times,  or  until  he  will  lie  down  readily  when  you 
pull  on  the  strap.  To  dispense  with  the  strap  on  the  off  foot,  take 
a  small  whip  and  touch  him  on  the  off  foot  before  you  pull  on  the 
strap,  and  as  he  moves  his  foot  pull  on  the  strap.  In  a  short  time  he 
■will    come    down    on    his    knees     without    pulling    on    the    strap, 


HOW   TO    TEACH   A   HORSE    TRICKS.  235 

by  touching  him  with  the  whip  on  the  front  leg  below  the  knee, 
and  in  this  way  you  can  dispense  with  the  strap  on  the  off  foot 
altogether. 

When  you  touch  the  horse  with  the  whip  on  the  front  leg  he 
will  get  down  on  his  knees  ;  should  he  attempt  to  get  up,  tap 
him  on  the  front  leg  and  he  will  soon  learn  to  lie  down  at  the 
motion  of  the  whip.     Do  not  work  on  him  too  long  at  one  lesson. 

You  should  select  a  nice,  soft  place  in  which  to  put  him  through 
this  exercise,  or  his  knee-caps  may  become  sore.  Pads  are  useful 
for  the  protection  of  his  knees. 

After  your  horse  has  been  taught  to  lie  down,  you  can  begin 
to  teach  him  to  sit  up,  by  putting  a  good  strong  strap  around 
his  neck  ;  at  that  part  where  the  collar  is  placed  have  two  strong 
straps,  made  with  rings  on  them.  Buckle  the  straps  around 
his  hind  legs,  at  the  fetlock  joint.  Have  them  covered  with  sheep- 
skins, with  the  wool  next  to  his  hide,  to  prevent  his  ankles  from 
being  galled. 

Avoid  using  anything  that  has  a  tendency  to  hurt  or  scar 
him.  Then  take  a  stout  rope,  double  it  and  fasten  the  doubled 
■end  to  the  strap  around  his  neck  ;  take  the  two  ends  and  rum 
them  through  the  rings  in  the  strap  on  the  hind  legs,  bringing 
them  back  to  the  strap  on  the  neck.  Draw  his  feet  forward  ; 
take  hold  of  the  bridle-rein  ;  step  back  and  say  to  him  "  sit  up." 
When  he  puts  his  front  feet  forward  he  cannot  get  his  hind 
legs  in  the  right  position  to  get  all  the  way  up,  consequently  he 
remains  in  a  sitting  posture.  Steady  him  while  in  this  position 
with  the  reins. 

Rub  and  caress  him  a  few  minutes  while  in  this  position. 
Then  unite  the  ropes  that  are  fastened  to  the  strap  around  his 
neck. 

These  ropes  should  be  tied  in  a  knot  that  will  enable  you  to 
loosen  them  both  at  the  same  moment.    Repeat  these  instructions 


236  HOW   TO   TEACH   A    HORSE    TRICKS. 

with  your  horse  a  few  times,  and  he  will  soon  learn  to  lie  down 
and  sit  up  at  command. 

Now  proceed  to  teach  the  horse  to  follow  you  all  around  the 
training-yard.  This  you  can  do  by  taking-  a  stage  or  four-horse 
whip,  long  enough  to  reach  him  at  any  part  of  the  yard,  saying 
to  him  "  come  here.'" 

He  will  not  understand  the  meaning  of  your  words,  and  to  help 
him  to  understand,  keep  snapping  him  with  the  whip  well  down 
on  his  hind  legs,  until  he  turns  his  head  toward  you.  This  he 
will  do  in  his  endeavor  to  get  away  from  the  whip.  When  he  has 
turned  his  head  toward  you,  hold  out  your  left  hand  ;  step  slowly 
toward  him,  and  should  he  wheel  around,  snap  your  whip  at  him 
as  before  until  he  faces  and  approaches  you. 

Repeat  this  a  few  times,  and  he  will  folloAv  you  all  over  the 
place. 

This  is  the  true  principle  of  teaching  all  dumb  brutes — treat 
them  roughly  when  they  disobey  and  kindly  when  obedient.  Re- 
ward your  horse  with  something  he  likes  when  he  does  as  you 
wish  him  to,  and  remember  always  to  use  but  one  command  to 
signify  a  certain  act. 

By  this  whip-training  you  can  not  only  make  your  tame  and 
gentle  horse  come  to  you,  but  also  the  wild,  unbroken  colt  or 
horse.  This  is  a  good  plan  to  teach  any  horse  to  come  to  you 
when  you  want  him. 

Your  horse  is  now  trained  to  come  to  you  when  called  ;  to  lie 
down,  sit  up,  and  to  follow  you  about  the  yard.  Next  proceed  to 
teach  him  to  pick  up  your  glove,  whip,  hat,  or  anything  you 
wish. 

There  are  two  ways  to  accomplish  this  :  one  is,  to  take  a  small 
sack  containing  oats  or  corn,  and  throw  it  down  in  front  of  him. 
He  will  get  it  in  between  his  teeth  and  commence  to  get  out  the 
oats  or  corn.  When  he  picks  it  up,  take  the  sack  from  him  and 
again  throw  it  down  before  him,  and  when  he  again  picks  it  up> 


HOW    TO    TEACH   A   HORSE    TRICKS.  237 

take  it  away  from  him,  and  repeat  this  treatment  for  some  time. 

Every  time  you  throw  down  the  sack,  say  to  him  "  Pick  it  up, 
Sir!" 

In  the  course  of  a  little  time  he  will  get  so  he  will  pick  up  any- 
thing at  your  word  of  command. 

Another  way  is  to  prick  him  with  a  pin  on  the  off  side.  This 
you  can  do  by  taking  a  position  on  the  near  side,  and  reaching 
over  with  the  right  hand,  holding  the  pin  and  handkerchief  in  it, 
and,  in  trying  to  remove  the  pin  he  will  get  hold  of  the  handker- 
chief. 

Every  time  he  takes  the  cloth  or  handkerchief  from  your  hand 
pet  him  and  encourage  him  to  do  it  again.  He' will  soon  take  it 
from  any  place  you  may  put  it. 

To  Teach  the  Horse  to  Make  a  Bovj. 

To  teach  the  horse  to  answer  in  the  affirmative,  take  a  pin  in 
your  right  hand,  stand  on  his  near  side,  a  little  forward  of  the 
shoulder,  and  prick  him  slightly  on  the  breast  He  will  naturally 
put  his  head  down  to  bite  off  whatever  causes  the  pricking,  and 
when  he  does  this  take  your  hand  away  and  treat  him  kindly. 

He  will  soon  learn  that  when  you  touch  him  on  the  breast  you 
want  him  to  lower  his  head  and  make  a  bow.  Every  time  you 
prick  him  with  a  pin  on  the  breast,  as  you  see  hi  m  putting  down 
his  head,  move  the  toe  of  your  right  foot  forward,  and  he  will  soon 
put  his  head  down  every  time  you  move  your  right  foot. 

This  will  not  be  noticed  by  the  spectators,  and  will  make  your 
horse  appear  wonderfully  smart  and  intelligent,  by  bowing  or 
answering  questions,  either  in  the  affirmative  or  negative,  every 
time  you  wish  him. 

To  Teach  the  Horse  to  Shake  his  Head  when  Required. 
To  get  your  horse  to  answer  in  the  negative,  stand  on  his  near 


23S  HOW  TO  TEACH  A  HORSE  TRICKS. 

side,  prick  him  with  the  pin  on  his  neck  a  little  above  the 
withers  ;  as  soon  as  he  moves  his  head  in  the  least,  take  your 
hand  away  and  treat  him  kindly  as  before.  After  repeating  this 
a  few  times  he  will  shake  his  head  every  time  you  touch  him  on 
the  neck. 

Then  you  can  take  a  pin  and  fasten  it  in  the  butt  end  of  your 
whip-handle,  and  touch  him  lightly  on  the  neck  with  the  pin 
Every  time  he  shakes  his  head  take  away  the  whip  and  pet  him 
By  this  treatment  he  will  in  a  little  while  get  so  he  will  answer 
any  question  you  may  ask  him. 

To  illustrate  the  system  of  taking  advantage  of  the  horse,  we 
will  give  the  following  example  : 

You  have  now  taught  your  horse  to  answer  questions  in  the 
affirmative  and  negative.  Take  your  whip  in  your  right  hand 
and  say  to  your  horse  : 

"  Do  you  like  this  whip  ?" 

Then  raise  it  up  and  touch  him  lightly  on  the  neck,  being 
careful  not  to  raise  the  whip  before  you  ask  the  question,  or  he 
will  shake  his  head  before  you  get  through  with  the  question  ; 
but  always  ask  the  question  before  you  make  any  motion.  And 
when  you  make  the  motion,  he  will  shake  his  head.  Then  ask 
him : 

"Do  you  like  your  oats  ?" 

And  make  a  motion  with  your  foot,  by  which  sign  he  will  know 
you  want  him  to  bow,  or  answer  in  the  affirmative.  By  the  horse 
doing  these  things  well  and  promptly,  he  will  appear  like  a  very 
intelligent  animal. 

When  traveling  in  the  South,  on  one  occasion,  I  took  a  horse 
into  the  woods  to  train  him  to  get  on  a  large  stump  that  stood  in 
a  clearing. 

While  engaged  with  the  horse,  a  colored  boy  came  along,  and 
stood  some  distance  away  watching  me  handle  the  horse. 

I  disliked  to  have  the  boy  watching  me,  so  I  said  to  the  horse 
in  a  loud  tone  : 


HOW    TO    TEACH   A    HORSE    TRICKS.  239 

"Do  you  see  that  colored  boy  standing  over  there?"  The 
horse  bowed,  signifying  that  he  did.  I  then  asked  him  if  he 
thought  he  could  catch  the  boy,  and  he  replied  by  bowing  that  he 
could.     Then  I  said  to  him  : 

"  If  he  does  not  leave,  will  you  go  and  bring  him  to  me  V 
The  horse  answered  in  the  affirmative. 

This  was  too  much  for  the  boy,  who  immediately  took  to  his 
heels  and  ran  for  dear  life,  probably  thinking  that  the  horse 
would  surely  catch  him,  as  he  had  answered  all  questions  relative 
to  himself. 

At  another  time,  while  in  Acamack  County,  Va.,  I  went  out  one 
morning  to  see  how  my  horse  Tom  was  being  cared  for,  as  I  sus- 
pected that  he  was  not  fed  as  I  wished.  On  entering  the  stable 
I  said  : 

"  Did  you  have  a  plenty  of  corn  this  morning  Vs  and  he  quickly 
shook  his  head  as  much  as  to  say  "  No." 

The  colored  stable-boy  stood  near  and  heard  me  question  the 
horse.     He  looked  first  at  the  horse,  then  at  me,  and  said  : 

"  Look  here,  massa,  dat  ar  horse  ain't  telling  de  truff  " 

"  Well,"  I  replied,  "you  give  him  about  four  ears  of  corn,  and 
if  he  refuses  to  eat  them,  I  will  know  he  did  not  tell  the  truth > 
but  I  have  never  known  that  horse  to  tell  a  lie." 

The  boy  went  off,  and  soon  returned  with  four  ears  of  corn, 
which  he  gave  to  the  horse.  Of  course,  he  began  eating  the  corn, 
at  which  the  boy  remarked  : 

"  Dat  ar  hoss  am  de  smartest  what  dis  'fisticated  young  nigger 
eber  seed  in  he  life." 

Now,  as  you  have  taught  your  horse  to  lie  down,  sit  up,  come 
to  you  when  you  call  him,  pick  up  any  designated  article,  answer 
questions,  follow  you  about,  etc.,  you  are  prepared  to  go  on  and 
teach  him  other  tricks,  by  the  experience  and  methods  employed 


240  HOW    TO    TEACH   A    HORSE   TRICKS. 

for  the  above-mentioned  tricks.  There  is  hardly  a  limit  to  which 
these  performances  can  be  carried.  You  can  say  to  your  horse  : 
"  Will  yon  take  the  handkerchief  from  your  front  foot/'  and  at 
the  same  time  make  a  sign  to  hiin  with  your  foot  and  he  will 
bow. 

Then  tie  the  handkerchief  on  his  front  foot,  in  such  a  way  as 
to  be  easily  pulled  off  by  the  horse,  leaving  a  corner  of  it  handy 
for  him  to  get  hold  of,  and  so  on,  until  he  will  get  the  pocket- 
handkerchief  from  any  place  you  may  leave  it. 

Now,  get  a  large  box  or  platform,  and  get  him  up  on  it  with 
his  forward  feet.  First  get  one  of  his  feet  on,  then  get  him  to 
step  up  with  the  other — doing  this  a  few  times — after  which  he 
will  get  up  at  the  command. 

Next,  make  him  get  up  on"  the  box  with  all  four  feet,  and 
gradually  lessen  the  size  of  the  box  until  he  will  get  on  a  box 
not  more  than  two  feet  across.  Have  the  box  larger  on  the 
bottom  than  at  the  top,  so  it  will  not  upset  and  frighten  him. 

Then  be^in  to  teach  him  to  walk  around  with  his  front  feet  on 
the  box  or  pedestal  and  his  hind  feet  on  the  ground ;  then  make 
him  get  upon  the  box  and  get  down  with  his  front  feet,  keeping 
his  hind  feet  on  the  box,  and  make  him  walk  around  the  box  on 
his  front  feet ;  then  you  can  put  the  handkerchief  up  on  a  pole, 
making  him  climb  up  on  the  box  with  his  front  feet  and  reach  to 
where  the  handkerchief  is  and  bring  it  down. 

Next,  you  can  make  him  shoot  a  pistol  by  putting  the  handker- 
chief on  the  trigger.  At  first  you  should  be  careful  not  to  frighten 
him  by  the  report  of  the  pistol.  You  can  teach  a  horse  almost 
anything  you  wish. 

Begin  now  to  teach  him  to  paw  by  touching  him  lightly  on 
the  near  forward  leg  with  a  pin.  Then  make  a  pile  of  dirt  in 
front  of  him  and  get  him  to  paw  it  down.  You  can  then  take 
your  handkerchief   and   bury   it   in  the  pile   of  dirt;  then  ask 


HOW    TO    TEACH    A    HORSE    TRICKS.  2-41 

hini  if  he  could  find  the  handkerchief  if  you  should  hide  it,  and 
give  him  the  sign  to  make  a  bow,  and  he  will  bow,  signifying 
yes.  Have  some  one  cover  his  eyes  while  you  hide  the  handker- 
chief in  the  pile  of  dirt  or  sawdust.  When  his  eyes  are  uncovered 
let  him  run  round  the  ring  a  few  times,  and  when  you  stop  him 
see  that  he  stops  where  he  can  paw  the  dirt  covering  the  hand- 
kerchief. As  soon  as  he  sees  the  handkerchief  he  will  pick  it  up. 
Then  you  can  change  these  tricks  to  suit  your  notion.  At  first 
you  make  signs  to  him  and  use  a  different  word  for  each  trick, 
and  as  you  find  the  horse  will  do  it  without  the  motion,  you  can 
dispense  with  the  sign  and  use  the  word  only.  When  you  first 
made  him  lie  down  you  had  to  strap  his  feet  up,  but  in  a  short 
time  he  would  lie  down  by  simply- touching  him  on  the  front  legs, 
and  after  awhile  he  would  do  it  by  only  saying,  "  lie  down,  sir  " 
or  by  the  tap  of  a  bell.  Observe  the  street-car  horse.  He  stops 
for  one  tap  of  the  bell,  and  starts  for  two.  The  Fire  Department 
horses  go  to  their  places  by  the  tap  of  the  bell ;  and  if  you  wish 
you  can  have  your  horse  perform  by  taps  of  the  bell. 

In  this  way  you  drop  the  sign  as  soon  as  you  can.  People  who 
do  not  understand  how  a  horse  is  taught,  think  because  he  per- 
forms these  tricks  that  he  has  more  sense  than  other  horses. 
You  can  take  any  old  plug  and  teach  him  to  perform  tricks. 

When  men  are  selecting  a  horse  to  train  they  generally  get  one 
of  fine  appearance  and  high-spirited,  as  they  are  the  best  for  the 
purpose. 

The  first  trick  horse  I  had  was  a  runaway  horse  I  bought  for 
almost  nothing.  The  fourth  one,  "  White  Hawk,"  was  a  four- 
year-old  colt,  and  very  stylish,  that  had  never  been  worked.  I 
paid  four  hundred  dollars  for  him.  I  kept  him  for  one  year,  and 
then  sold  him  to  Mr.  Skinner,  of  Ohio,  for  one  thousand  dollars ; 
he  is  now  traveling  with  a  circus. 
P 


242  HOW    TO    TEACH   A    HORSE    TRICKS. 

He  would  lie  down,  roll  over  and  back  again,  walk  on  his  knees, 
shoot  a  pistol,  take  the  handkerchief  off  of  either  foot  you  would 
tie  it  to,  or  off  of  his  back,  and  find  it  when  hidden  in  the  ring  ; 
pick  up  your  hat,  glove  or  whip  and  hand  it  to  you,  or  any  other 
person  you  might  direct  him  to. 

In  fact,  you  could  drill  him  like  a  soldier.  He  would  advance, 
retreat,  wheel  to  the  right  or  left,  gallop,  trot,  walk,  perform  on 
the  pedestal  and  put  his  front  foot  on  my  head  (as  represented  on 
the  cover  of  this  book). 

By  following  closely  the  instructions  here  presented  for  the 
training  of  trick  horses,  you  can.  teach  a  horse  to  perform  all  the 
tricks  mentioned,  and  many  more,  such  as  ringing  a  bell,  untying 
knots,  holding  your  overcoat  for  you  in  his  teeth,  and  helping 
you  to  put  it  on.  Let  some  one  tie  your  hands  and  have  your 
horse  untie  them,  or  any  other  trick  that  will  amuse,  such  as 
kissing  you,  shaking  hands,  answering  a  thousand  questions. 
And  if  you  wish,  you  can  train  two,  and  have  them  teeter  on  a 
plank,  dance  on  a  platform,  waltz,  jump  through  hoops  of  fire, 
and  you  can  also  teach  them  so  that  one  will  stop  for  the  word 
that  will  make  the  other  go,  and  go  for  the  word  that  will  stop 
him,  and  have  one  lie  down  -wheu  you  say  get  up,  and  get  up  when 
you  say  lie  down.  In  this  way  you  can  make  two  horses  perform 
at  the  same  time,  or  have  it  appear  that  one  of  your  horses  is 
very  stubborn,  and  in  this  way  you  can  spend  many  hours  with 
your  horses.  Be  patient,  persevering,  and  good  natured.  Never 
allow  yourself  to  get  angry  with  your  horse.  If  you  find  you  are 
getting  out  of  humour  stop  and  rest  one  or  two  hours,  and  it  will 
be  better  for  you  and  much  better  for  your  horse. 


MANAGEMENT    OF  THE    DOG. 


The  dog  is  the  most  domestic  of  all  animals,  and  is  a  very- 
agreeable  companion  and  willing  servant  to  man.  If  he  is  abused 
and  ill-treated,  he  will  be  likely  to  become  a  nuisance.  He  is  so 
close  a  companion  of  mankind,  that  it  becomes  a  very  important 
duty  of  his  master  to  understand  how  to  train  and  educate  him 
properly.  If  he  is  well  and  skillfully  trained  he  will  reflect  great 
credit  upon  his  master,  and  become  an  agreeable  member  of  his 
household  as  well  as  a  useful  assistant.  There  are  various  kinds 
of  dogs  and  various  methods  of  training  them  ;  of  course  I  will 
not  undertake  in  this  work  (being  devoted  principally  to  the 
horse),  to  describe  more  than  a  few  of  the  varieties  of  dogs — 
those  only  that  are  best  known — and  neither  can  I  devote  much 
space  to  their  training,  only  giving  the  rules  by  which  a  person 
with  patience,  perseverance,  firmness  and  kindness  can  train  the 
dog  to  perform  various  useful  and  pleasing  tricks.  We  will  give 
a  sufficient  number  to  lead#  the  operator  to  the  teaching  of  many 
more.  Of  course  the  dog  is  as  varied  in  his  dispositions  and 
temperaments  as  there  are  different  kinds  of  dogs. 

I  will  here  mention,  by  way  of  illustration,  that  the  bloodhound 
will  follow  the  trail  of  man  or  beast  for  miles,  over  all  kinds  of 
ground  and  almost  under  all  circumstances,  even  many  hours 
after  the  object  of  his  search  has  taken  his  departure,  and  suc- 
cessfully find  him  by  the  scent  alone.  His  sense  of  smell  is  so 
highly  developed,  naturally,  that  he  requires  no  training  what- 
ever to  teach  him  to  accomplish  this,  for  he  is  simply  following 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 


245 


the  natural  instinct  of  his  nature.  But  it  will  take  considerable 
training  to  bring  him  under  proper  subjection,  as  his  nature  and 
disposition  incline  him  to  rebel  against  anything  that  savors  of 
curbing  or  controlling  his  impetuous  and  obstinate  inclinations. 
For  this  reason,  the  Cuban  slaveholders  preferred  to  cross  this 
breed  of  dog  with  the  English  mastiff,  thereby  securing  an  animal 
that  possessed  the  fine  nose  of  the  bloodhound  and  the  controllable 
disposition  of  the  mastiff. 


The   Bloodhound. 

The  notice  of  the  poetical  and  pictorial  artist  has  been  fre- 
quently attracted  to  the  majestic  head  of  this  dog,  and  there  is 
no  doubt  he  is  deserving  of  it.  He  excels  the  whole  animal 
creation  from  this  point  of  view,  as  the  greyhound  surpasses  them 
in  elegance  of  outline  and  grace  of  movement. 


It   is   somewhat   remarkable   that  two  members  of  the  canine 


246 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 


race  should  be  possessed  to  this  full  extent  of  these  two  attri- 
butes so  different  in  themselves.     In  consequence  of  this  hound 
being  used  to  track  deer  and  sheep-stealers  by  the  scent  of  the 
blood  dropped  on  the  track,  the  prefix  «  blood  "   has  been  given 
to  this  hound.     He  was  employed  to  follow  the  body-scent  of  men 
and  animals   on  account   of  his  fine  nose,  and  in  this  manner  he 
was  formerly  employed  to  capture  runaway  slaves  ;  but  becoming 
almost  unmanageable  when  he  overtook  them,  the  English  mastiff, 
or  a  cross  between  this   mastiff  and  bloodhound,  generally  was 
preferred  on  account  of  his  greater  amenity   to  the  control  and 
discipline  of  his  master.     The   reason  we  specially  mention  the 
bloodhound  is,  that  he  being  an  uncommon  animal,  and  seldom 
seen  in  this  country,  and  being  possessed  of  such  a  noble  head  and 
remarkable  powers,  we  consider  him  well   worthy  the  prominence 
oriven  him  in  this  work. 


The  Greyhound. 


his  dog  naturally  differs  from  the  bloodhound  ;  the  blood- 
hound follows  his  game  by  his  wonderful  sense  of  smell,  while  the 
greyhound  depends  solely  on  his  sight   and   remarkable  speed. 


MANAGEMENT    OP    THE    DOG. 


247 


While  in  San  Jose,  CaL,  a  particular  and  highly-esteemed  friend, 
Mr.  Frank  McKiernan,  presented  me  with  a  fine  young  grey- 
hound, which  I  valued  highly.  When  at  Livermore,  I  thought  I 
would  take  the  pup  out  for  a  little  run.  Suddenly  a  hare  jumped 
up,  and  to  my  great  astonishment  she  sprang  after  him  at  full 
speed,  although  she  had  never  seen  one  before.  She  chased  it  so 
close  that  she  caused  him  to  turn  four  times  within  half  a  mile. 
It  will  be  seen  that  the  hound  was  obeying  the  laws  of  her 
nature  in  giving  pursuit  to  the  hare,  as  she  had  received  no 
training  whatever.  My  dog,  William,  well-known  over  the 
greater  part  of  the  United  States,  was  a  splendid  trick-dog  of  the 
bull-terrier  type,  but  his  natural  inclination  was  to  fight.  He 
would  attack  a  dog  four  times  his  size,  and  oftentimes  would 
attack  his  master  when  closely  pushed.  I  will  mention  William's 
tricks,  and  how  to  teach  a  dog  to  perform  them,  further  on. 


The  Setter. 


The  setter  is  a  handsome,  bright,  and  highly  valued  animal  for 
all  the  purposes  of  finding  and  setting  small  game,  as  well  as  for 
recovering  birds,  etc.,  after  being  shot.  He  is  also  susceptible  of 
being  trained  to  do  an  immense  number  of  tricks,  such  as  return- 
ing to  a  store  and  selecting   a  letter  left  by  his  master  among 


248  MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 

many  others,  or  finding  your  powder-flask,  picking  up  your 
pocket-book,  if  dropped  accidentally,  going  to  the  house  and 
bringing  you  any  desired  garment,  etc.  This  dog  requires  no 
training  to  find  and  set  birds  in  the  fields  and  bush,  as  he  does 
this  work  naturally.  Good  setters  have  been  known  to  bring  as 
high  as  $500. 


The  Mastiff. 

The  mastiff,  m  appearance,  resembles  the  bull-dog  about  the 
head,  but  with  the  ears  dependent ;  the  upper  lip  falls  over  the 
lower  jaw  ;  the  end  of  the  tail  turns  up,  and  frequently  the  fifth 
toe  of  the  hind  foot  is  more  or  less  developed ;  the  nostrils  are 
separated  by  a  deep  groove  ;  his  countenance  is  grave  and  some- 
what sullen,  and  his  deep-toned  bark  can  be  heard  at  any  hour  of 
his  watchfulness.  He  is  much  taller  than  the  bull-dog,  but  not  so 
deep  in  the  chest.  His  head  is  large  compared  with  the  size  of 
his  body.  It  is  generally  believed  that  the  mastiff  is  an  original 
breed  peculiar  to  the  British  Islands.  He  is  generally  used  as  a 
watch-dog,  and  his  large  proportions  make  quite  an  impression 
on  a  stranger,  especially  during  the  still  hours  of  night. 
It  is  with  the  greatest  vigilance  that  he  watches  the  property 
and  abode  of  his  master,  never  neglecting  his  duty.  Nothing 
will  induce  him  to  forsake  his  watchfulness  over  anything  placed 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 


240 


in  his  charge  to  guard.  His  attachment  to  his  master,  and  great 
appreciation  of  kindness  and  favors  bestowed  on  him,  is  fully  as 
great  as  shown  by  the  most  diminutive  canine,  notwithstanding 
his  great  size,  commanding  appearance  and  faithful  watchfulness 
over  his  master's  abode.  The  natural  instinct  of  this  dog  is  un- 
mistakably that  of  a  faithful  watch-dog,  and  he  requires  little 
or  no  training  for  this  purpose. 


The  Poodle. 

From  what  particular  breed  the  poodle  descended  is  unknown, 
yet  all  his  peculiarities  of  form,  size,  and  susceptibility  to  train- 
ing have  been  remarkably  well  retained.  He  was  originally  a 
water-dog,  as  is  amply  shown  by  his  natural  propensities  while  in 
a  domesticated  state,  and  he  is  the  easiest  trained  and  educated 
of  any  other  dog.  As  sporting  dogs  they  are  not  recognized  to 
any  extent.  His  great  attachment  to  his  master,  the  great 
number  of  useful  tricks  which  he  can  be  trained  to  perform,  make 
him  the  most  companionable  of  all  dogs. 

It  is  customary  to  strip  the  poodle  of  his  natural  long  curly 
hair  from  the  portion  of  the  body  back  of  his  shoulders,  leaving 


250  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    DOG. 

parts  of  his  head  and  forward  parts  as  nature  intended,  as  shown 
in  the  cut ;  the  contrast  between  the  parts  of  his  body  may  give 
a  pretty  effect,  but  is  liable  to  be  the  cause  of  bring  rheumatism, 
to  which  disease  this  dog  is  very  liable. 


Smooth  Eat  Terrier. 

This  dog  has  a  convex  forehead ;  pointed  muzzle ;  prominent 
eye;  short  fur;  moderate-sized  ears,  half  erect.  He  is  a  most 
useful  dog  about  the  house  and  farm,  having  no  superior  as  a 
destroyer  of  rats,  weazels,  polecats,  etc.,  for  which  service  he 
requires  no  training,  his  natural  propensities  guiding  him  in  his 
work.  There  are  the  rough  and  smooth  terriers  ;  the  rough  clog 
probably  obtained  his  shaggy  coat  from  the  cur,  and  the  smooth 
terrier  may  derive  his  from  the  hound.  Were  it  not  for  this  very 
useful  dog  many  a  granary  and  barn  would  be  the  scene  of  an 
immense  loss  of  grain  by  rats.  The  terrier  is  quick  and  active, 
and  easy  to  train  for  the  performance  of  many  novel  and  interest- 
ing tricks. 

Collie,  or  Shepherd  Dog. 

This  animal  is  used  for  the  purpose  of  watching,  returning  stray 
sheep  to  the  flock,  heading  off,  guiding  and  driving  sheep,  as 
well  as  protecting  them  from  wild  animals  and  dogs.  He  is 
also   a  faithful   house   watch-dog,   of   good   disposition.      He   is 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG.  251 

used  extensively  by  the  ranchers  throughout  California  and  Ore- 
gon. The  hair  on  this  dog  is  long  and  inclined  to  be  shaggy,  his 
snout  sharp,  body  full  and  well-rounded,  legs  of  moderate  length ; 
tail  has  fine  brush,  similar  to  that  of  a  fox.  He  is  capable  of 
standing  an  unusual  amount  of  exposure  to  wind,  rain,  snow  and 
cold,  his  fine  long  hair  providing  him  ample  protection. 

Among  those  dogs  most  readily  trained  to  perform  tricks  are 
the  French  poodle,  water  spaniel,  setter  and  pointer.  In  fact, 
any  common  cur  such  as  we  have  illustrated  on  page  255  can  be 
taught  to  perform  many  interesting  and  amusing  tricks,  as  will 
be  shown  further  on  in  this  work. 


Training  the  Shepherd  Dog. 

After  you  have  selected  the  kind  of  a  dog  you  desire  to  train — 
one  from  six  months  to  a  year  old — take  him  into  some  large 
room  or  lot  with  a  high  fence,  being  careful  that  there  is  nothing 
to  interfere  with  your  work,  or  any  place  for  the  dog  to  crawl 
through  and  out  of  the  room  or  lot.  Take  your  dog  into  the 
place  prepare!  for  his  training.  It  is  preferable  to  get  an  animal 
unaccustomed  to  being  played  with  by  boys  and  also  one  unused 
to  the  words  of  command  made  use  of  to  other  dogs. 


.252  MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 

The  first  thing  to  teach  him  is  his  name  and  to  obey  promptly, 
when  you  call  him  by  name  and  order  him  to  come  to  or  go  from 
you.  He  must  at  first  be  taught  to  mind  by  the  use  of  a  single 
word,  and  when  accustomed  to  the  use  of  a  single  word  as  here 
(emphasizing  here),  teach  him  to  obey  by  the  use  of  two  or  more 
words,  such  as  "come  here,"  "lie  down,"  etc.  There  are  many 
ways  of  teaching  the  dog,  as  well  as  other  animals,  but  our  methods 
for  teaching  him  will  be  very  simple  and  effectual,  being  appli- 
cable to  every  case.  If  we  teach  the  dog  by  coaxing,  he  will  come 
only  when  he  feels  disposed  to,  and  is  liable  to  disobey  at  a  time 
when  we  are  extremely  anxious  to  have  him  obey  our  commands, 
therefore  we  resort  to  other  means  than  by  coaxing.  Most  writers 
claim  that  it  will  take  the  dog  three  or  four  days  to  learn  his 
name  by  their  methods — we  propose  by  our  method  to  teach  him 
in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Place  a  strong  strap  or  collar  about  his 
neck — there  is  a  patent  collar  for  this  particular  purpose,  but  is 
unnecessary,  as  the  above-mentioned  strap  or  collar  will  answer 
all  requirements  and  inflict  no  cruelties  on  the  animal.  Attach 
a  cord  to  the  collar,  long  enough  to  reach  across  the  room  or 
enclosure ;  take  hold  of  it  about  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  dog, 
and  say  "  Here,"  or  any  other  word  you  propose  using  when  you 
want  him  to  come  to  you.  A  German,  Frenchman,  Italian,  or,  in 
fact,  a  person  of  any  nationality,  will,  of  course,  use  whatever 
word  suits  his  language,  and  whatever  word  he  may  use,  it  is 
•evident  the  dog  will  not  understand  it;  so  jerk  on  the  cord 
sharply,  using  whatever  word  you  intend  using  to  have  him  come 
to  you.  This  will  have  a  tendency  to  hurt  the  dog  a  little  at 
first.  Then  move  a  little  from  him  and  repeat  the  word  and  the 
jerking — always  using  the  word  first,  followed  quickly  by  pull- 
ing on  the  line.  As  soon  as  the  dog  shows  any  signs  of  com- 
ing toward  you  in  answer  to  your  commands,  approach,  and 
•by  caressing. 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG.  253 

him,  encourage  his  obedience  in  the  future.  After  fondling  and 
kindly  treating  him  for  a  little  while,  step  away  from  him  further 
than  before,  and  repeat  the  operation  until  he  will  come  to  you 
from  any  part  of  the  room  or  enclosure,  at  the  word  of  command 
— "Here!"  When  you  get  him  to  come  to  you,  say  "do"  in 
place  of  saying  "  that  will  do/'  This  lesson  will  occupy  about 
thirty  or  forty  minutes,  and  will  be  sufficient  for  the  first  time. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  lesson,  romp  and  play  with  him,  so  that 
it  will  not  appear  like  a  long  lesson.  During  the  training  of  the 
dog,  allow  no  one  to  approach  or  speak  to  him,  and  never  permit 
him  to  be  fed  by  any  one  but  yourself.  When  the  dog  has  had  a 
good  rest,  begin  again  as  before  with  the  cord  and  collar, 
saying  to  him,  "Come,"  at  the  same  time  pulling  him  with  the 
cord  toward  you,  should  he  fail  to  obey.  If  he  comes  at  your 
word  of  command,  kindly  treat  and  encourage  him.  Then  you 
can  begin  to  teach  him  to  go  from  you,  at  the  word  "  go."  This 
you  can  do  by  leaving  the  room  door  open,  or  by  getting  a  piece 
of  meat  and  throwing  it  from  you,  and  encouraging  him  to  go 
after  it.  When  he  understands  how  to  go,  then  teach  him  to 
halt,  by  holding  him  with  the  cord  when  he  is  going  after  the 
meat  or  toward  the  door.  In  fact,  this  dog  wants  to  be  taught 
obedience  only,  and  his  natural  instinct  will  teach  him  to  drive 
and  care  for  the  sheep. 

To  teach  the  dog  to  take  hold  of  anything,  first  get  (a  piece  of 
stout  cloth  or  rope,  and  get  him  to  take  hold  of  it,  at  the  same 
time  using  the  word  "  Hold ;"  and  when  he  has  held  it  long 
enough,  say  to  him,  "  Do,"  in  place  of  "  That  will  do,"  and  repeat 
this  performance  until  he  will  readily  and  willingly  take  hold  and 
let  go  of  the  rope  when  ordered  to  do  so. 

When  he  has  accomplished  these  things  properly,  procure  a 
gentle  cow  and  encourage  the  dog  to  hold  on  to  her  tail  until 


254  MANAGEMENT   OF    THE    DOG. 

you  give  hiui  the  word  to  let  go ;  and  then  you  may  take  him 
along,  accompanied  by  other  dogs,  to  drive  the  cattle,  encourag- 
ing him  to  drive  them.  At  the  same  time  do  not  send  him  after 
cattle  unused  to  dogs,  or  they  may  turn  and  frighten  him .  After 
doing  this  a  few  times,  take  a  well-broke  dog  along  that  has  been 
taught  to  drive,  and  let  your  new  dog  have  a  chance  to  see  the 
old  dog  work.  The  young  dog  will  require  very  little  encourage- 
ment to  learn  to  drive  and  work  with  sheep  and  cattle.  After 
having  learned  to  come,  go,  take  hold,  let  go,  etc.,  his  natural 
propensities  will  direct  his  future  efforts. 


TEACHING   THE   DOG   TEICKS. 

Many  amusing  tricks  may  be  taught  the  dog,  that  will  make 
him  appear  very  intelligent.  As  I  have  before  said,  much 
depends  on  the  breed  ;  a  dog  of  the  poodle  family  may  be  taught 
to  perform  one  set  of  tricks,  while  one  of  the  bloodhound,  terrier, 
or  greyhound  family  may  be  taught  to  perforai  things  entirely  at 
variance  with  those  of  the  poodle.  When  selecting  a  dog  to 
train,  I  always  get  one  that  is  considered  very  difficult  to  train — 
a  mongrel  or  common  cur.  If  we  select  a  well-bred  dog,  that  is 
considered  very  intelligent,  we  could  claim  but  very  little  credit 
for  having  such  a  dog  perform  interesting  tricks  j  therefore,  I 
would  advise  the  selection  of  the  former  kind  for  a  trick  dog,  by 
which  course  the  trainer  will  receive  greater  credit  than  the  dog 
for  his  clever  performances. 

The  reader  must  bear  in  mind  the  necessity  of  giving  the  dog 
primary  lessons  before  undertaking  to  instruct  him  in  the  lessons 
pertaining  to  the  grammar  department  of  his  course  of  instruc- 
tions, or,  in  other  words,  teach  him  the  simplest  first,  then  the 
more  difficult  tricks.  My  celebrated  dog  William  was  trained 
to  drink  when  he  was  not  thirsty  and  to  eat  when  not  hungry. 
He    was    a    cross    between  the    bull-dog  and  terrier,   and  did 


MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    DOG. 


255 


not  have  the  appearance  of  a  dog  susceptible  of  a  high  degree 
of  education,  yet  he  was  trained  to  perform  numerous  difficult 
and  interesting  tricks. 

Having  first  taught  your  dog  to  obey  every  command  promptly, 
proceed  to  teach  him  to  sit  up.  This  you  can  do  by  placing  him 
in  a  corner  in  a  sitting  position,  and  should  he  attempt  to  come 


Common  Cur. 

down,  tap  him  lightly  on  the  chin,  and  say,  "  Sit  up  !  "  Keep 
him  in  this  position  for  a  little  while,  and  should  he  come  down 
again,  straighten  him  up,  saying  to  him,  "  Sit  up."  After  he  has 
sat  in  this  position  a  little  while,  say  to  him,  "  Do,"  meaning 
that  will  do.  The  object  in  placing  him  in  the  corner  is  to 
furnish  him  with  support  at  first,  that  he  may  not  fall  over. 
After  he  has  learned  to  sit  up  well  in  the  corner,  sit  him  up 


256  MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG. 

against  the  wall  and  try  the  same  thing  ;  this  will  require  more 
patience,  as  he  can  easily  fall  over  to  either  side.  When  he 
has  learned  this  well,  take  him  from  the  wall  to  the 
middle  of  the  floor,  and  set  him  up  ;  but  as  he  has  no  support 
whatever,  it  will  require  more  time  and  patience  before  he  can 
accomplish  the  feat.  When  he  sits  up  on  the  floor  without  sup- 
port, then  proceed  to  teach  him  to  stand  up.  This  you  can  do  by 
taking  hold  of  his  front  feet  with  both  hands  and  straightening 
him  up,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "  Up  !"  Then  replace  him  in 
the  sitting  position.  Repeat  this  until  he  will  stand  up  readily 
at  the  word  "Up!"  and  sit  down  at  the  word  "Down!"  The 
trainer  must  bear  in  mind  that  this  is  not  all  to  be  accomplished 
in  a  single  lesson,  but  requires  several.  Do  not  prolong  the 
lessons  until  the  dog  becomes  tired  and  inattentive.  Next  pro- 
ceed to  teach  him  to  walk  on  his  hind  feet.  This  you  can  do  by 
taking  hold  of  his  forward  feet  with  both  your  hands  and  walking 
him  forward  and  backward  on  the  floor,  at  the  same  time  saying 
to  him  "Forward  !"  or  "Back  !"  according  to  the  way  you  require 
him  to  go.  After  he  understands  what  you  want  him  to  do, 
holding  on  to  him  with  your  hands,  you  can  then  encourage  him 
to  do  it  without  holding  on  to  him,  by  having  him  a  little  hungry, 
and  inducing  him  with  a  piece  of  meat  to  rise  up  and  walk  after 
it,  backward  and  forward.  Next  proceed  to  teach  him  to  jump 
over  things.  Ths  best  way  to  get  him  to  do  this  is  to  get  a  small 
bar  or  pole,  six  or  eight  feet  long,  placing  one  end  of  it  on  a  box 
about  a  foot  high,  and  the  other  on  the  floor;  then  place  the 
cord  on  his  neck,  the  same  as  in  training  him  to  come  to  you, 
and  get  on  one  side  of  the  bar,  with  the  dog  on  the  other, 
saying  "Jump,"  at  the  same  time  pulling  on  the  cord  to  induce 
him  to  do  so.  You  might  also  have  a  small  switch  in  your 
hand   as   a   "persuader,"    using  the   switch   at   the   same    time 


MANAGEMENT    OF    THE    DOG.  257 

you  pull  on  the  cord.  After  jumping  over  the  pole  readily,  following 
you  over  every  time,  induce  him  to  jump  over  the  bar  closer  and 
closer  to  the  box,  at  which  point  the  bar  is  highest  from  the  ground. 
Every  time  he  jumps  over  fondle  him,  and  by  kindness  show  him 
that  he  has  done  what  you  required  of  him.  Now  you  can  increase 
the  height  of  the  box  to  two  feet,  and  repeat  the  lesson  as  before, 
until  he  will  jump  over  a  bar  at  any  reasonable  height. 

In  giving  these  lessons  never  use  the  word  "jump"  more  than 
once,  and  then  enforce  your  order.  By  this  method  the  dog  will  soon 
find  out  that  he  is  never  punished  except  when  he  disobeys,  and 
receives  kind  treatment  and  reward  with  food,  for  prompt  obedience. 
This  prepares  him  to  jump  on  the  box,  chair  or  stool.  You  can  now 
take  the  bar  away  and  make  him  jump  upon  the  box.  When  he 
jumps  up  encourage  him  by  kindness,  then  say: 

"  Jump  down*1 

If  he  does  as  ordered,  proceed  as  before.  Repeat  this  until  he  will 
readily  do  it  at  the  words  "  jurnp  up,"  or  "  down." 

The  dog  is  now  prepared  to  receive  a  higher  and  more  difficult 
branch  of  his  education. 

Get  a  barrel  to  begin  with  ;  prop  it  so  as  to  have  it  solid  ;  then 
stand  at  one  end  and  teach  the  dog  to  jump  on  the  barrel,  and  down, 
as  you  did  when  exercising  him  with  the  box,  chair  or  stool.  Have 
the  cord  on  the  dog's  neck,  holding  it  with  your  left  hand,  all  this 
time,  so  as  to  compel  him  to  take  the  position  you  desire.  Then  walk 
half  way  around  the  barrel,  obliging  the  dog  to  keep  his  head  to  your 
left  hand  and  his  tail  to  your  right.  Get  him  to  do  this  perfectly, 
before  allowing  him  to  attempt  anything  new — to  prevent  his  being 
confused. 

For  each  act  you  require  of  the  dog,  use  a  different  word  of  com- 
mand and  do  not  repeat  it,  but  insist  on  prompt   obedience  at   the 


258  MANAGEMENT   OF   THE    DOG. 

first  command,  and  never  neglect  to  kindly  use  him  on  the  conclusion 
of  a  well-performed  lesson.  After  he  has  accomplished  this  part  of 
the  lesson,  take  the  props  from  the  sides  of  the  barrel  so  it  will  roll ; 
compel  your  dog  to  get  upon  it,  standing  across  the  middle,  with  his 
sides  toward  the  barrel  ends  ;  pull  gently  on  the  cord— this  will  start 
the  barrel  to  roll  slowly  toward  you,  as  you  always  stand  facing  the 
dog.  The  movement  of  the  barrel  necessitates  the  dog's  changing 
and  lifting  his  feet  to  balance  himself  as  it  rolls  along.  Never  permit 
him  to  squat  down,  but  keep  in  an  upright  position  while  going 
through  this  exercise.  Having  gone  on  in  this  manner  across  the 
room,  walk  around  to  the  other  side  of  the  barrel,  compelling  the  dog 
to  "  about  face"  and  begin  to  pull  gently  again  on  the  cord,  causing 
the  barrel  to  roll  toward  you.  When  he  does  this  well  without  your 
pulling  on  the  cord,  take  him  down  and  give  him  a  good  rest. 

Next,  order  your  dog  up  on  the  barrel,  again  obliging  him  to  roll  it 
first  one  way  and  then  the  other.  When  he  does  this  to  your  satis- 
faction, walk  around  to  the  end  of  the  barrel  and  making  him  face 
you,  with  his  head  toward  one  end  of  the  barrel,  hold  it  and  say  to 
him  "  Stop  /"  helping  him  at  first,  so  he  will  not  fall.  Then  go  to 
the  side  of  the  barrel,  the  dog  turning  his  head  toward  you,  with  his 
sides  parallel  with  the  ends  of  the  barrel,  and  order  him  forward. 
He  will  start  to  moving  his  feet,  of  course,  thus  causing  the  barrel  to 
roll  forward.  After  he  moves  forward,  reverse  and  stop  the  barrel 
satisfactorily,  then  teach  him  to  steady  the  barrel,  while  he  stands 
with  his  head  toward  the  end. 

When  he  has  learned  the  above  portions  of  his  lessons,  block  the 
barrel  again,  and  proceed  to  teach  him  to  lie  down,  sit  up,  and  stand 
up  on  the  barrel. 

When  he   has  been  taught  well  to  stand  erect  on  the  floor,  you 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE   DOG.  259 

can  then  make  him  stand  up  on  the  box,  and  next  on  the  barrel,  and 
he  will  soon  get  the  idea  of  standing  up  well  on  the  barrel. 


uiea- 


After  your  dog  has  been  advanced  to  this  high  degree  of  edi 
tion,  you  can  proceed  to  teach  him  to  pick  up  and  lay  things  down  at 
your  word  of  command. 

There  are  two  ways  to  teach  him  to  do  these  things.  One  would 
be  to  take  a  ball,  or  something  he  is  used  to  playing  with,  getting  him 
to  run  after  it  and  bring  it  to  you,  making  him  drop  it  at  your  feet, 
by  putting  your  fingers  in  his  mouth,  and  pressing  on  the  inside,  at 
the  same  time  saying  "  let  go." 

Another  way  would  be  to  place  the  object  inside  of  his  mouth,  and 
compel  him  to  hold  it  there  until  told  to  let  go.  The  best  way  is 
to  get  a  piece  of  meat  or  anything  he  is  fond  of,  and  of  a  size  to  pre- 
vent his  swallowing  it.  When  you  have  succeeded  in  teaching  him 
this,  you  cau  substitute  some,  other  object  in  placs  of  the  ball  or 
meat — for  instance,  a  slipper  or  handkerchief. 

Teach  him  to  pick  up  and  bring  to  you  any  desired  object,  always 
being  particular  to  call  it  by  name,  so  that  he  will  become  familiar 
with  the  sound  as  well  as  the  sight  of  the  object.  Begin  first  with  a 
single  object,  such  as  a  boot  or  hat.  Step  up  close  to  it,  making  the 
dog  take  hold  and  pick  it  up,  then  step  away,  and  calling  it  by  name 
command  him  to  bring  it  to  you  and  place  it  at  your  feet. 

If  he  does  it  all  right  pet  him.  By  teaching  your  animal  this  one 
trick  thoroughly,  with  a  single  object,  he  will  soon  be  enabled  to  dis- 
tinguish the  names  of  several  things  placed  in  a  row.  When  he  can 
bring  you  any  article  asked  for  among  a  number  of  others,  then  sub- 
stitute the  color  of  the  articles  in  place  of  their  names,  so  when  you 
order  him  to  bring  a  slipper,  say  to  him  "bring  me  the  green 
slipper,"  placing  great  stress  on  the  word  which  represents  the  color. 


260  MANAGEMENT    OF   THE    DOG. 

By  tuis  course  of  training  it  will  appear  as  though  the  dog  could 
readily  distinguish  colors,  when  in  reality  you  have  only  substituted 
the  name  of  the  color  of  the  object  in  place  of  its  name  ;  for  example, 
if  the  slipper  is  green,  say  to  hirn  to  bring  you  the  green  slipper,  or 
the  Hack  slipper,  or  the  Hue  slipper,  and  so  on,  until  you  can  teach 
him  to  bring  you  a  slipper  of  any  prominent  color  you  may  name. 

By  this  course  of  treatment  the  dog  will  become  able  to  distinguish 
one  color  from  another,  no  matter  what  the  object  may  be,  whether  it 
is  a  slipper,  hat,  paper,  handkerchief  or  anything  else. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  deception  practiced  in  the  exhibition  of 
performing  animals,  by  the  skill  of  the  trainer  in  directing  their 
movements. 

Remember,  the  trainer  does  the  most  of  the  tricks  by  his  movements, 
for,  after  the  dog  has  been  trained  to  pick  up  things,  he  can  do 
numerous  tricks,  such  as  telling  the  time  by  looking  at  your  watch. 
Be  careful  you  see  the  watch  yourself,  or  the  dog  cannot  perform  the 
trick.  You  place  on  the  floor  cards  with  the  numbers  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6, 
7,  8,  9,  0.  Every  number  you  wish  him  to  pick  up,  step  in  front  of 
the  number.  If  it  is  not  the  one  that  you  want,  say  to  your  dog, 
"  Go  on,  sir,  and  tell  me  the  time."  If  he  picks  up  the  right  one,  say  : 
"  Bring  it  here,  sir  !"  Then  ask  him  how  much  three  and  six  are,  and 
make  him  pick  up  the  card  No.  9.  Then  ask  him  how  many  dayi 
there  are  in  a  week.  Give  him  the  sign  to  pick  up  Eo.  7.  Ask  him 
how  many  days  he  likes  to  work,  and  make  him  pick  him  up  the 
cypher,  and  so  on.  You  can  see  how  numerous  you  can  make  his 
tricks. 

By  having  several  dogs  trained,  each  one  in  his  line,  and  have 
them  sit  on  a  stool  and  perform  in  turn,  will  make  a  very  inte- 
resting exhibition.  Have  the  greyhound  display  his  wonderful 
powers    for    leaping.       When   you  require   him   to    do  this,  |have  a 


MANAGEMENT   OF   THE   DOG.  261 

pad  for  him  to  jump  on,  so  as  not  to  injure  bim  as  he  alights.  Have 
the  setter  perform  tricks  that  require  a  fine  nose  ;  the  spaniel  or 
poodle  for  the  water  tricks  ;  the  bull  terrier  for  those  kind  of  tricks 
that  require  courage. 


Bull  Terrier. 

If  you  want  to  make  your  dog  sneeze,  get  a  little  snuff  and  put  it 
on  his  nose.  Say  "  Sneeze,  sir  !"  In  a  short  time  he  will  sneeze  if 
you  point  your  finger  at  him. 

In  the  foregoing  we  have  given  instructions  for  training  dogs  to 
perform  many  amusing  tricks  ;  the  natural  ingenuity  of  the  experi- 
menter will  enable  him  to  extend  the  list  indefinitely. 


DISEASES    OE    THE    DOG. 


Distemper. 

Distemper  is  a  feverish  disease,  marked  by  a  rapid  loss  of  strength 
and  flesh  in  proportion  to  the  severity  of  the  attack.  It  may  occur 
more  than  once  in  the  same  individual,  and  at  any  period  of  life.  It 
is  generally  met  with  in  the  puppy,  and  in  the  majority  of  cases  the- 
dog  is  afterwards  exempt.  The  cause  of  the  disease  consists  in  the 
poisoned  state  of  the  blood,  which  may  be  produced  either  by  conta- 
gion or  by  putrid  emanations  from  filthy  and  overcrowded  kennels. 
It  is  from  the  efforts  of  nature  to  throw  off  this  poison  that  the 
various  symptoms  are  produced  by  which  we  know  the  disease.  The 
symptoms  differ  in  accordance  with  the  difference  of  constitution  of 
the  animal,  also  to  the  state  of  surroundings,  air,  etc.  Distemper  is 
either  simple  or  attended  by  complications  in  the  chest,  head,  belly, 
etc.  Although  they  are  all  essentially  the  same  disease,  the  variations 
may  be  described  as  :  1st.  Mild  distemper.  2nd.  Head  distemper. 
3rd.  Chest  distemper.  4th.  Belly  distemper.  5th.  Malignant 
distemper. 

In  almost  all  cases  of  mild  distemper,  the  following  symptoms 
show  themselves,  with  the  additional  symptoms  peculiar  to  each. 
The  first  noticeable  thing  is  a  general  dullness,  especially  in  the  eyes, 
accompanied  by  a  loss  of  appetite  and  a  dislike  for  exercise  and  play. 
A  short  cough  soon  appears,  attended  by  a  disposition  to  sneeze,  and 
the  dog  appears  as  though  he  hardly  knew  which  to  do  first, 
cough  or  sneeze.     While  the  dog  is  quiet  in  his  kennel,  the  cough  and 


DISEASES    OF   THE    DOG.  263 

sneezing  are  seldom  heard,  but  when  brought  out  into  the  air,  from 
the  kennel,  especially  after  he  begins  to  run  about  and  play,  the 
mucuous  membrane  is  irritated,  and  the  cough  begins,  either  by  itself 
or  alternately  with  sneezing.  There  is  slight  thirst,  generally  a  warm, 
dry  nose,  a  disordered  state  of  the  bowels,  which  may  be  either  con- 
fined or  relaxed,  and  a  scanty  secretion  of  highly  colored  urine.  In 
a  few  days  the  dog  loses  flesh  and  strength  to  a  great  extent,  and  then 
gradually  recovers. 

Head  Distemper  begins  the  same  as  in  the  mild  form,  and  if  there 
is  any  cough  or  sneezing  it  is  very  slight,  sometimes  being  imper- 
ceptible. It  will  be  noticed  that  the  whites  of  the  eyes  are  covered 
with  blood-vessels  loaded  with  dark  blood,  and  strong  light  appears  to 
give  pain.  Very  often  this  kind  of  distemper  is  accompanied  by  a  fit 
of  short  duration,  at  the  beginning  of  the  trouble,  and  leaves  the  dog 
in  a  state  of  torpor  from  which  he  can  with  difficulty  be  aroused.  If 
the  brain  is  not  relieved,  the  fits  recur  at  short  intervals,  the  stupor 
increases,  until  the  dog  becomes  insensible  and  dies  in  violent  convul- 
sions. Chest  distemper  is  an  extension  downward  into  the  chest  of 
the  irritation  which  causes  the  cough.  It  there  generally  sets  up 
that  kind  of  inflammation  known  as  bronchitis,  together  with  which, 
however,  there  is  often  inflammation  of  the  substance  of  the  lungs 
(pneumonia),  or  even  of  the  external  surface  (pleurisy).  Distemper 
of  the  belly  is  often  caused  by  mismanagement,  brought  on  by  either 
the  abuse  of  violent  drugs  or  neglect  for  some  time  previous  of  the 
secretions.  In  the  former  case,  the  bowels  become  very  much  re- 
laxed at  the  expiration  of  ten  days  from  the  commencement  of  a  case 
of  mild  distemper,  with  constant  diarrhoea,  soon  followed  by  the  pas- 
sage of  large  quantities  of  blood.  When  this  comes  from  the  small 
intestines  it  may  be  quite  black  and  pitchy,  or  when  from  the  lower 
bowels  it  is  red  and  florid. 


264  DISEASES    OF   THE    DOG. 

Generally  these  symptoms  appear  as  the  result  of  calomel,  or  other 
violent  medicine  ;  sometimes  they  appear  of  themselves.  When  the 
bowels  have  become  confined  from  neglect,  while,  at  the  same  time, 
the  secretion  of  bile  has  been  checked,  a  very  dangerous  symptom, 
named  "  the  yellows,"  shows  it-self,  the  name  being  given  in  conse- 
quence of  the  skin  and  white  of  the  eyes  being  of  a  yellow  color 
from  the  presence  of  bile.  When  this  occurs  without  distemper,  it  is 
not  so  fatal ;  but  when  it  comes  on  during  an  attack  of  this  disease, 
it  almost  invariably  proves  fatal.  Malignant  distemper  may  come  on 
at  first,  the  animal  being,  as  it  were,  at  once  knocked  down  by  the 
severity  of  the  poison.  At  times  it  shows  itself  within  a  week  or  ten 
days  after  the  first  symptoms  appear.  It  may  follow  either  of  the 
four  kinds  already  described,  being  marked  by  an  aggravated  form  of 
the  symptoms  of  each.  There  are  additional  evidences  of  the 
poisoned  state  of  the  blood  which  present  themselves  in  the  four 
stages  into  which  this  disease  has  been  divided.  These  stages  are : 
1st,  incubation,  during  which  the  disease  is  hatching  or  brewing 
2nd,  reaction,  when  nature  is  working  to  throw  off  the  poison  ;  3rd 
'prostration,  following  these  efforts  ;  and,  4th,  convalescence,  wherein 
the  constitution  recovers  its  usual  powers. 

In  well  marked  cases  of  malignant  distemper  the  four  stages 
average  about  a  week  or  ten  days  each,  and  as  the  treatment  for  each 
varies  considerably,  it  is  important  to  ascertain  their  existence.  The 
period  of  incubation  may  be  known  by  the  symptoms  common  to 
mild  distemper,  as  well  as  to  other  kinds.  In  the  malignant  form  the 
secretions  are  disordered,  the  strength  is  lost  more  rapidly,  and  the 
appetite  is  almost  gone.  During  the  reaction  the  pulse  becomes  hard 
and  quick,  the  breathing  is  much  hurried,  and  is  often  much  quicker 
than  the  pulse,  without  the  existence  of  any  inflammation.  It  is 
important  to  notice  this,  as,  when    such   is    the   case,  any  lowering 


DISEASES    OF    THE    DOG.  265 

measures  are  improper.  On  the  other  hand,  the  pulse  may  be  very 
high  and  strong,  and  the  breathing  labored,  which,  together  with 
other  unmistakable  symptoms,  require  energetic  and  lowering  treat- 
ment. At  this  time,  also,  are  developed  those  dangerous  affections  of 
the  brain,  bowels,  or  liver,  to  which  I  have  before  alluded.  When 
this  stage  of  prostration  sets  in  the  whole  system  is  thoroughly  pros- 
trated, the  dog  is  so  weak  that  he  is  unable  to  stand,  his  strength  is 
almost  entirely  gone,  so  that  he  must  be  drenched  to  keep  him  alive. 
The  tongue,  gums  and  teeth  are  coated  with  a  black  fur,  and  his 
breath  is  highly  offensive.  At  this  time  an  eruption  of  the  skin 
shows  itself  sometimes  consisting  in  mere  purple  spots,  in  others  of 
small  bladders  filled  with  yellow  matter,  but  most  frequently  of 
bladders  varying  in  size  from  a  pea  to  half  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg 
containing  matter  more  or  less  stained  with  purple  blood,  and  some- 
times blood  alone. 

On  the  skin  of  the  belly,  and  inside  of  the  thighs,  this  eruption  is 
thickest,  but  sometimes  extends  to  the  whole  body.  It  is  considered 
a  favorable  sign,  taken  by  itself,  though  it  generally  attends  severe 
cases.  Health  gi'adually  returns  in  the  convalescence  from  malignant 
distemper,  but  great  care  should  be  taken,  or  a  relapse  is  apt  to  follow, 
and  is  often  fatal.  In  distinguishing  the  various  forms  of  distemper 
from  the  diseases  that  mosL  resemble  them,  it  is  necessary  to  bear  in 
mind  the  peculiarity  of  distemper.  In  its  malignant  form,  especially, 
is  the  rapid  tendency  to  loss  of  strength  and  flesh  which  accompanies 
it.  A  common  cold  or  cough  is  attended  with  slight  fever,  languor 
and  loss  of  appetite,  yet  it  may  go  on  for  some  days  without  the  dog 
losing  much  flesh,  and  with  but  small  loss  of  strength.  So  with 
ordinary  diarrhoea — it  requires  a  very  severe  attack  to  reduce  a  dog 
anything  like  the  same  degree  which  a  few  days'  distemper  will  cause. 


266  DISEASES   OF   THE   DOG. 

A  clog  with  diarrhoea  gets  thin,  but  does  not  become  a  living  skeleton, 
as  he  does  when  affected  with  distemper  ;  neither  does  he  lie  ex- 
hausted in  his  kennel,  powerless  to  rise  from  his  bed,  and  unable  to 
relieve  himself  unless  receiving  support.  The  same  applies  to  simple 
inflammation  of  the  lungs,  which  may  be  treated  with  lowering 
medicine  with  good  effect  without  reducing  the  dog  too  much  ;  while 
in  chest  distemper,  even  if  the  local  symptoms  are  apparently  as 
severe,  a  treatment  half  as  energetic  will  be  fatal  from  exhaustion 
following  upon  it. 

The  sequels  of  distemper  are  chorea,  commonly  called  "  the  twitch," 
and  a  kind  of  palsy,  known  as  "  the  trembles."  Both  are  produced 
by  seme  mischief  done  the  brain  or  spinal  marrow  in  the  course  of  the 
disease.  They  generally  follow  the  kind  described  as  head  distemper. 
Chorea  is  known  by  a  peculiar  and  idiotic-looking  drop  in  one  fore- 
quarter  when  the  dog  begins  to  move,  causing  him  to  bob  his  head 
in  a  helpless  manner.  At  times  the  twitch  is  only  partial,  and 
at  others  almost  universal,  but  disappears  during  sleep.  Shaking 
palsy  affects  the  whole  body.  It  is  more  rare  than  chorea,  which 
fact  is  fortunate,  as  it  is  considered  incurable.  All  lowering  mea- 
sures should  be  avoided  in  the  treatment  of  the  various  forms  and 
sequels  of  distemper,  as  this  is  the  most  debilitating  disease. 

Inflammation  is  always  to  be  feared,  attacking  either  the  brain, 
lungs,  or  bowels,  and  as  bleeding  and  other  remedies  of  a  similar  ten- 
dency form  the  most  active  means  for  getting  rid:  of  inflammation, 
there  is  left  only  a  choice  between  two  dangers.  In  the  general  treat- 
ment there  are  two  things  to  be  attended  to  :  First,  avoid  lowering 
the  system,  and,  in  severe  cases,  support  it  by  good  diet,  consistent 
with  the  avoidance  of  encouragement  to  inflammation.  Second,  take 
particular  eare  that  inflammation  does  not  go  far  enough  to  destroy 
life,  or  to  leave  such  organic  change  in  brain  or  lungs  as  shall  render 


DISEASES    OF   THE    DOG.  26T 

the  dog  useless  for  purposes  for  which  he  was  deoigned.  This,  in 
theory,  is  simple,  but  requires  some  experience  in  practice.  At  times 
one  is  obliged  to  blow  hot  and  cold  at  the  same  time,  lowering  the  dog 
with  one  hand  and  propping  him  up  with  the  other.  Kemember, 
always,,  that  this  disease  has  a  natural  tendency  to  recovery,  the  efforts 
of  the  powers  of  the  system  being  to  throw  off  a  poison  in  the  blood. 
Nature,  therefore,  requires  to  be  aided,  not  opposed  ;  the  less  inter- 
ference witli  her  operations  the  greater  your  success. 

1.  General  Treatment — For  the  early  stage  give  a  mild  dose  of 
aperient  medicine,  such  as  castor  oil  and  syrup  of  poppies  in  equal 
proportions.  If  the  liver  does  not  act  give  jalap  and  calomel.  Avoid 
giving  calomel  if  there  is  plenty  of  bile  in  the  evacuations.  After  the 
early  stage  of  the  trouble  is  passed  give  no  medicine.  Keep  the 
kennel  clean,  dry,  airy  and  warm,  changing  the  litter  often.  Avoid 
exercise  till  the  running  of  the  eyes  and  cough  have  ceased.  Give 
nourishing  broths,  thickened  with  rice,  flour,  or  arrowroot,  when  there 
is  diarrhoea.  If  the  bowels  are  confined  give  oat-meal.  If  there  is 
very  little  water  passed  give  as  a  drench  five  or  six  grains  of  nitre,, 
with  half-teaspoonful  of  spirits  of  nitre  every  night. 

2.  Head  distemper  requires  energetic  treatment  in  addition  to  the 
above.  From  four  to  eight  leeches  may  be  applied  to  the  inside  of 
the  ears  ;  bathe  the  part  with  milk  and  water  first.  Then  put  in  a 
seton  to  the  back  of  the  neck,  first  smearing  the  tape  with  blistering 
ointment.  Apply  cold  water  to  the  head  if  it  is  very  much  affected, 
with  a  wet  cloth  or  with  a  watering-pot.  Give  calomel  and  jalap  to 
act  on  the  bowels  and  liver,  also  a  pill  (one-half  grain  to  one  grain 
tartar  emetic),  twice  a  day.  When  the  urgent  symptoms  have- 
disappeared  the  dog  will  require  supporting  with  beef  tea  and  tonics. 


.268  DISEASE    OF   THE   DOG. 

3.  Chest  Distemper — Should  there  be  inflammation,  it  sometimes 
becomes  necessary  to  bleed,  but  it  is  better  to  avoid  any  such  lowering 
measure,  and  use  antimony  or  ipecacuanha.  Mix  one  grain  of  either 
of  these  with  half  a  grain  of  opium ;  give  twice  or  three  times  a  day 
If  the  trouble  is  long  continued  apply  a  blister  to  the  chest,  or  rub  in 
mustard  mixed  with  vinegar.  Should  the  breathing  be  more  rapid 
than  the  pulse,  stimulants  will  be  required,  such  as  the  bark  and  am- 
monia mixture  in  No.  5. 

4.  Distemper  of  the  belly,  attended  with  purging,  requires  the  use 
of  astringents.  Opium  is  the  best.  The  following  has  no  equal : 
Prepared  chalk,  two  drams;  laudanum,  one  once;  mulcilage  of  acacia, 
one  ounce;  tincture  of  ginger,  two  drams;  water,  five  and  one-half 
ounces.  Give  a  tablespoonful  every  time  the  bowls  are  relaxed.  The 
diet  should  consist  of  boiled  rice  with  milk  or  broth,  and  in  case  of 
much  thirst  give  rice-water  only. 

If  the  bowels  are  confined,  and,  as  generally  the  case,  attended 
with  "  the  yellows,"  take  calomel,  3  grains  to  5  grains  ;  rhubarb  and 
aloes,  of  each  5  grains  to  10  grains.  Mix  and  form  into  a  ball  with 
water,  giving  twice  a  day  until  it  acts  freely.  Should  bile  begin  to 
flow,  there  is  still  greater  care  required  to  avoid  checking  the  diarrhoea 
on  the  one  hand,  while  on  the  other  the  exhaustion  caused  by  it  is 
•often  very  great.  Broth,  thickened  with  rice  or  flour,  must  be  given 
often,  by  force  if  necessary.  Where  there  is  great  exhaustion  from 
diarrhoea,  arrow -root  and  port  wine  will  prove  beneficial. 

5.  Malignant  distemper  is  less  difficult  to  control  than  that 
in  the  head.  The  great  thing  is  to  avoid  reducing  the  system  in 
the  early  stage.  A  mild  dose  of  oil  given  as  described  in 
No.  1  will  be  beneficial.  After  this,  the  less  done  the  better  till  the 
usual  weakness  shows  itself.  There  is  no  chance  of  recovery 
.unless   by    resorting   to   strong   tonics    and    good    food.      For   this 


DISEASES    OF    THE    DOG.  ^t)tr 

purpose  there  is  no  remedy  like  port  wine  or  bark  of  ammonia.  The 
former  may  be  given,  mixed  with  an  equal  part  of  water,  and  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  spice,  such  as  nutmeg  or  ginger.  For  the  latter, 
take  a  decoction  of  bark,  loz.;  aromatic  spirit  of  ammonia,  1  dram  ; 
compound  tincture  of  bark,  1  dram.  Mix  and  give  twice  a  day  to  a 
large  dog,  or  half  to  a  small  one.  If  the  bowels  are  relaxed,  give  the 
dog  the  astringent  mixture  as  in  No.  4.  Eest  is  absolutely  necessary 
for  the  dog.  * 


GENERALLY  PRESCRIBED  MEDICINES  AND 
THEIR  ACTION  ON  THE  DOG. 

Aperients. 

To  quicken  or  increase  the  evacuation  from  the  bowels,  aperients  or 
purges  are  given.  Their  mode  of  operation  vary  a  good  deal.  Some 
cause  an  immense  watery  discharge,  which,  as  it  were,  washes  out  the 
bowels;  others  act  merely  by  exciting  the  muscular  coat  of  the 
bowels  to  contract ;  while  a  third  set  combine  the  action  of  the  other 
two.  Some  purges  act  upon  and  stimulate  the  small  intestines,  while 
others  pass  through  without  affecting  them  and  act  upon  the  large 
bowels  alone,  and  others  again  act  upon  the  whole  canal,  showing  that 
the  various  purges  act  also  on  different  parts  of  the  canal. 

There  is  another  point  of  difference  in  purges,  depending  on  their 
influencing  the  liver,  in  addition,  which  mercurial  purgatives  surely 
do,  as  well  as  rhubarb  and  some  others,  which  effect  is  partly  due  to 
their  absorption  into  the  circulation.  They  may  be  made  to  act  by 
injecting  into  the  veins,  with  the  same  effect  and  results  as  though 
swallowed  and  subsequently  passed  into  the  bowels.  Purgatives  are 
classed  according  to  the  degree  of  their  effect— into  drastic  purges,  that 
act  severely  and  laxatives  acting  mildly. 


270  DISEASES   OF   THE   DOG. 

1.  Purgative  Injection — Castor  oil,  £  oz.;  spirit  of  turpentine,  2 
drams  ;  gruel,  6  to  8  oz.      Mix. 

2.  A  Good  Aperient  Ball — Blue  pill,  t  scruple;  compound  extract 
of  colocynth,  1  scruple  ;  powdered  rhubarb,  5  grains;  oil  of  aniseed, 
2  drops.  Mix.  Give  to  a  large  dog  ;  but  for  a  small  one,  give  one- 
half  or  one-third. 

3.  Strong  Aperient  Ball— Calomel,  4  grains  ;  jalap,  14  to  2d  grains  ; 
linseed  meal  and  water,  one  or  two  boluses,  according  to  size. 

4.  Castor  Oil  Mixture — Castor  oil,  |  pint ;  laudanum,  £  oz. ; 
oil  of  aniseed,  1  dram ;  oil,  2  oz.  Mix,  and  give  according  to  the 
size  of  dog,  from  one  to  three  tablespoonfuls. 

Antispasmodics. 

Anti-spasmodics,  as  their  name  implies,  are  remedies  which  are  in- 
tended to  counteract  excessive  muscular  action,  called  spasm,  or  when 
in  the  limbs,  cramp. 

1.  Anti-spasmodic  Injection — Laudanum,  sulphuric  ether  and  spirit 
of  turpentine,  each  1  to  2  drams  ;  gruel,  3  to  6  oz.     Mix. 

2.  "Anti-spasmodic  Mixture — Camphor  mixture,  1  oz.;  sulphuric- 
ether  and  laudanum,  of  each  |  to  1  dram.  Mix.  Give  every  two 
Jiours  till  spasms  cease. 

Alteratives. 

To  produce  a  fresh  and  healthy  action  in  place  of  previous  disor- 
dered functions,  alteratives  are  given.  It  is  only  by  the  results  that 
the  precise  mode  of  action  can  be  understood,  and  the  utility  of  these 
medicines  recognized. 

1.  Plummer's  pill,  2  to  5  grains  ;  extract  of  hemlock,  2  to  3  grains. 
Mix,  and  give  every  night. 

2.  Cod  liver  oil,  from  a  teaspoonful  to  a  tablespoonful,  with  one  or 
two  drops  of  wine  of  iron  twice  a  day. 

3.  Stinking  hellebore,   5    to   8   grains  ;    powdered  rhubarb,   2   to 


DISEASES    OP    THE    DOG.  271 

4  grains.     Mix,  and  form  into  a  pill.     G-ive  every  night. 

-A.  Podophyllin,  i  grain  ;  compound  rhubarb  pill,  3  grains.  Mix, 
and  give  once  or  twice  a  week  until  the  liver  acts  freely. 

5.  Liquor  Arsenicalis— Dose,  7  drops  to  an  average-size  dog. 
Specially  recommended  for  dogs  rendered  gross  from  want  of  work 
and  over-feeding. 

Anodynes. 

To  soothe  the  general  nervous  system,  or  stop  diarrhoea,  and  some- 
times to  relieve  spasm,  as  in  colic  or  tetanus,  anodyne  medicines  are 
given.  Opium  is  the  principal  anodyne  used  in  canine  medicine,  and 
may  be  used  in  quite  large  doses. 


Anodyne  Prescriptions. 

1.  For  Long-continued  Purging— Diluted  sulphuric  acid,  3  drams  ; 
tincture  of  opium,  2  drams  ;  compound  tincture  of  bark,  1  oz.;  water, 
6^  oz.     Mix.     Give  tablespoonful  every  four  hours. 

2.  For  Slight  Purging— Prepared  chalk,  2  drams ;  aromatic  con- 
fection, 1  dram  ;  tincture  of  opium,  5  to  8  drams  ;  rice-water,  7  oz. 
Mix.     After  every  loose  motion  give  two  tablespoonfuls. 

3.  Castor  oil,  2  oz.;  tincture  of  opium,  1  oz.  Mix  by  shaking. 
Give   one  tablespoonful   night   and   morning  while  the   bowels  are 

•  loose. 

Astringents. 

Astringents,  whether  applied  immediately  or  by  absorption  into  the 
circulation,  cause  contraction  in  those  living  tissues  with  which  they 
come  in  contact,  whether  in  the  interior  or  exterior  of  the  body. 
They  are  divided  into  astringents  applied  locally  to  external,  ulcerated 
or  wounded  surfaces,  and  those  administered  by  the  mouth. 


272  DISEASES    OF    THE    DOG. 

1.  Astringent  Ball,  useful  in  Diabetes  or  Hemorrhage — Powdered 
opium,  2  to  3  grains ;  gallic  acid,  4  to  6  grains  ;  alum,  5  to  10 
grains ;  powdered  bark,  10  grains ;  linseed-meal,  enough  to  form 
a  ball  for  a  large  dog,  or  divide  in  two  for  a  small  one. 

2.  Astringent  Ointment  for  Piles — Gallic  acid,  10  grains  ;  goulard 
extract,  15  drops;  lard,  1  oz.     Mix. 

3.  Astringent  Washes  for  the  Eves — Grouiard  extract,  1  dram  ; 
water,  1  oz.  Mix.  Or,  nitrate  of  silver,  2  to  8  grains;  water,  1  oz. 
Mix,  and  drop  into  the  eyes  with  a  quill  ;  or  wine  of  opium  to  be 
dropped  into  the  eye. 

4.  Sulphate  of  zinc,  5  to  8  grains  ;  water,  2  oz.     Mix. 

Blisters. 

In  the  application  of  blisters  to  the  skin  of  the  dog,  great  care 
should  be  taken  to  muzzle  him,  and  remove  the  muzzle  only  at  feed- 
ing-time. 

Before  blistering  cut  the  hair  off  with  scissors  from  the  part  to 
be  blistered. 

Sweating  Application  for  Enlarged  G-roivths. 

Lard,  one  ounce ;  red  iodide  of  mercury,  one  drachm  ;  mix.  Rub 
in  a  little  everv  day  until  producing  a  watery  discharge,  then  desist 
for  a  few  days,  repeating  when  necessary ;  or  paint  with  tincture  of 
iodine  every  day  until  the  desired  effect  is  produced. 

Emetics. 

Sometimes  emetics  are  required  for  dogs,  but  not  often.  Vomiting 
being  a  natural  process  with  him,  he  seldom  needs  provoking.  Eme- 
tics, if  had  recourse  to  too  often,  will  cause  his  stomach  to  become  so 
irritable  that  neither  food  nor  medicine  will  remain  on  it.  Their 
administration  should  be  kept  carefully  within  the  bounds  of  absolute 
necessity. 


DISEASES   OF  THE   DOG.  273 

1.  Common  Salt  Emetic— Grive  a  drench  of  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
to  half  the  quantity  of  mustard  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  warm 
water. 

2.  Strong  Emetic — Powdered  Ipecacuanha,  4  to  5  grains  ;  tartar 
emetic,  one-half  to  one  grain ;  mix ;  dissolve  in  a  little  warm  water 
and  give  as  a  drench,  to  be  followed  by  a  half-pint  of  lukewarm 
water  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Liniments  or  Embrocations. 

The  most  beneficial  remedy  in  use,  when  applied  to  the  skin  for  the 
purpose  of  producing  counter  irritation,  and  specially  useful  in 
chronic  rheumatism,  colic,  etc.,  is  as  follows :  Liquid  ammonia 
(strong),  laudanum,  spirits  of  turpentine,  soap  liniment,  each  one- 
half  ounce ;  mix. 

Caustics, 

Substances  which  burn  away  the  living  tissues  of  the  body,  by  the 
decomposition  of  their  elements,  are  caustics,  and  are  of  two  kinds  : 
first,  the  actual  cautery,  consisting  of  the  application  of  a  burning 
iron,  and  known  as  firing;  second,  potential  cautery,  by  means  of 
mineral  caustics,  such  as  lunar  caustic,  corrosive  sublimate,  potash, 
etc. 

Firing  is  seldom  practiced  on  dogs,  but  it  may  sometimes  be  had 
recourse  to  with  advantage.  A  very  thin  iron  should  be  used.  To 
stop  bleeding  from  warts  that  have  been  cut  from  the  mouth  with  a 
knife,  or  in  a  similar  way  for  piles. 

1.  Lunar  Caustic  or  Nitrate  of  Silver— This  should  be  kept  handy 
in  a  wooden  vessel  made  especially  for  it — valuable  to  the  veterinary 
surgeon. 

2.  Blue  Stone,  or  Sulphate  of  Copper— Should  bo  rubbed  freely 
into  the  parts  affected.     It  is  valuable  for  unhealthy  sores,  etc. 

•    Corrosive  sublimate  is  used  to   remove  warts,  but  should  be  left  to 
the  use  of  practical  surgeons. 
K 


274  DISEASES    OF   THE   DOG. 

Expectorants 

Excite  and  promote  a  discharge  of  mucous  from  the  lining  membrane 
of  the  bronchial  tubes,  relieving  inflammation  and  allaying  cough. 

1.  Ipecacuanha  Powder  and  Powdered  Opium — Each  one  grain — 
confection  enough  to  make  a  pill — give  every  six  hours. 

2.  Expectorant  Balls — Ipecacuanha  powder,  1  to  1|  grains ; 
powdered  rhubarb,  1  to  3  grains  ;  compound  squill  pill,  1  to  2  grains  ; 
powdered  opium,  |  to  1  grain  ;  linseed  meal  and  water  enough  to 
make  a  ball.     Give  night  and  morning. 

3.  An  Expectorant  for  a  Recent  Cough — Almond  emulsion,  1  oz. ; 
tincture  of  lobelia,  10  to  15  drops ;  ipecacuanha  wine,  5  to  10  drops ; 
extract  of  conium,  2  to  3  grains.  Mix.  To  be  given  two  or  three 
times  a  day. 

4.  An  Expectorant  Mixture  for  Chronic  Cough — Syrup  of  poppies, 
1  dram ;  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  5  to  10  drops  ;  Friar's  balsam,  10  to 
15  drops;  mucilage,  \  oz.  ;  water,  %  oz.  Mix,  and  give  two  or  three 
times  a  day. 

Cordials. 

Medicines  acting  as  warm  temporary  stimulants,  augmenting 
strength  and  spirits  when  depressed,  are  cordials.  They  often  relieve 
an  animal  from  the  effects  of  over-exertion. 

1.  Cordial  Drench — Sal  volatile,  15  to  30  drops  ;  infusion  of  gen- 
tian, i  to  1  dram  ;  tincture  of  cardamons,  i  to  1  dram ;  camphor 
mixture,  1  oz.     Mix. 

2.  Cordial  Balls — Ginger,  20  to  40  grains;  powdered  caraway 
seeds,  \  to  \\  drams  ;  oil  of  cloves,  3  to  8  drops.  Mix,  and  give 
10  grains  for  a  dose. 

Diuretics. 
Diuretics  are  remedies  which  promote  the  secretion  and  discharge 


DISEASES   OF   THE    DOG.  275 

of  urine,  the  effect  produced  by  each  medicine  being  done  in  a 
different  manner.  Some  act  directly  on  the  kidneys  by  sympathy 
with  the  stomach,  while  others  are  taken  up  by  the  blood-vessels 
and,  in  their  elimination  from  the  blood,  cause  an  extra  secretion 
of  urine.  In  either  case  their  effect  is  to  diminish  the  watery 
part  of  the  blood,  and  thus  promote  the  absorption  of  fluid  effused 
into  any  of  the  cavities  or  into  the  cellular  membrane,  in  the 
various  forms  of  dropsy. 

1.  Diuretic  and  Alterative— Nitre,  4  grains  ;  iodide  of  potassium, 
3  grains  ;  digitalis,  £  grain  ;  extract  of  gentian,  5  grains.  Mix, 
and  give  twice  a  day. 

2.  Diuretic  Ball — Digitalis,  j  to  1  grain  ;  ginger,  4  trains  • 
nitre,  6  grains  ;  linseed-meal  and  water  to  form  a  ball.  Give 
night  and  morning. 

Worm  Medicines. 

1.  Male  fern-root,  1  to  3  drams  ;  oil,  10  to  30  drops,  in  tape- 
worm. 

2.  Spirit  of  turpentine,  1  to  4  drams ;  tie  up  in  a  piece  of 
bladder  and  give  as  a  ball,  for  obstinate  case  of  tape- worm. 

3.  Areca-nut  powdered  ;  give  2  grains  for  every  pound  of  the 
dog's  weight.     Good  for  worms. 

Febrifuges. 

Fever  medicines  allay  fever,  by  increasing  the  secretions  of 
urine  and  sweat,  and  reducing  the  action  of  the  heart. 

1.  Fever  Mixture— Sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  3  drams  ;  mindererus 
spirit,  1  oz. ;  nitre,  1  dram ;  camphor  mixture,  6|  ozs.  Mix. 
Dose — Give  two  tablespoonfuls  every  six  hours. 

2.  Febrifuge  Pill— Calomel,  1  to  3  grains  ;  nitre,  3  to  5  grains  ; 
digitalis,  i  grain— confection  to  form  a  pill.  To  be  given  every 
night. 

3.  Tartar  emetic,  l-6th  grain  ;  nitre,  3  to  5  grains— confection 
to  form  pill.     Give  night  and  morning. 


276  DISEASES   OE    THE   DOG-. 

Washes  or  Lotions. 

Mange  Wash — Calvert's  carbolic    diluted  with  twenty  times    it& 

bulk    of    water,    and    rubbed   into    the    roots    of   the    hair,    in  red 

mange. 

Ointments 

Are    greasy   applications,   by   which    means    certain   substances   are 
brought  in  contact  with  the  vessels  of  the  skin. 

1.  Digestive  Ointment — Venice  turpentine,  1|  ozs. ;  beeswax,  f  oz. ; 
lard,  2  ozs. ;  red  precipitate,Q  oz.     Mix. 

2.  Mange  Ointment — Lard,  1  oz.  ;  green  iodide  of  mercury,  1 
dram.  Mix.  Rub  a  small  quantity  every  other  day  to  the  affected 
parts. 

Be  careful  not  to  leave  any  superfluous  ointment  on  the  surface  of 

the  body.     Never  dress  more  than  one-fourth  of  the  dog's  body  at  one 

time. 

Tonics. 

Tonics  increase  the  vigor  of  the  whole  body  permanently,  while 
stimulants  only  act  for  a  short  time.  They  are  useful  after  low 
fever. 

1.  Distemper  Tonic — Compound  tincture  of  bark,  one  dram ;  aro- 
matic spirit  of  ammonia,  one  drachm ;  decoction  of  yellow  bark,  one 
ounce ;  mix. 

2.  Tonic  Pills — Gringer,  two  to  three  grains  ;  bisulphide  of  quin- 
ine, one  to  three  grains  ;  extract  of  gentian  sufficient  to  make  a  bolus  ; 
give  twice  a  day. 

3.  Tonic  Mixture — Decoction  of  yellow  bark,  seven  ounces  ;  com- 
pound tincture  of  bark,  one  ounce  ;  mix. 

Dose — Two  tablespoonfuls  two  or  three  times  a  day. 

Stomachics 

Are  prescribed  particularly  to  increase  the  tone  of  the  stomach. 

1.     Stomachic  Draught — Compound  infusion  of  gentian,  one  ounce  ; 


DISEASES    OF   THE    DOG.  277 

tincture    of    cardamons,    one-half    dram ;    tincture    of  ginger,    five 
drops  ;  mix.     To  be  given  twice  during  the  day. 

2.  Stomachic  Pill — Powdered  rhubarb,  two  grains  ;  extract  of  gen- 
tian, five  grains  ;  mix,  and  give  twice  a  day. 

Styptics. 

Eemedies  having  a  tendency  to  stop  the  now  of  blood  from  either 
internal  or  external  surfaces,  are  known  as  styptics.  They  are  made 
use  of  by  either  the  mouth  or  by  direct  application  to  the  part,  in  the 
shape  of  a  lotion,  and  also  by  the  actual  cautery,  which  is  the  best 
for  external  bleeding. 

Internal  Styptics— For  bloody  urine,  or  bleeding  from  the  lungs : 
Tincture  of  matico,  |  to  1  oz.;  superacetate  of  lead,  12  to  24  grains  j 
vinegar,  2  drams  ;  water,  7  to  7|  oz.  Mis.  To  a  full-sized  dog  give 
two  tablespoonf  uls  two  or  three  times  a  day. 

Administration  of  Remedies. 

It  is  often  very  difficult  to  administer  physic  in  any  shape  without 
some  little  patience  and  knowledge  of  the  temper  of  the  dog.  Even 
the  keeper  of  a  large,  powerful  dog  of  a  savage  temper,  can  with 
difficulty  control  him.  A  resolute  man  with  his  hands  properly 
guarded  by  gloves,  can  easily  handle  a  dog  of  less  than  40  or  50 
pounds  weight. 

To  give  a  pill  or  bolus  to  a  small  dog,  place  him  gently  into  the  lap 
of  the  operator,  and  laving  hold  of  the  space  between  the  canine 
teeth  and  the  molars  on  each  side,  with  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the 
left  hand,  force  the  mouth  open  and  drop  the  pill  into  the 
throat  with  the  right  hand,  following  it  rapidly  with  the  fore- 
finger, and  pushing  it  down  as  far  as  can  be  reached  with 
the  finger.  Keep  the  mouth  closed  for  a  few  seconds  to  give 
the  pill  time  to  reach  the  stomach.  To  treat  a  large  dog,  he 
must  be  backed  into  a  corner,  then  straddle  over  him  and  put  a  thick 


278  DISEASES   OP   THE   DOG. 

cloth  into  his  mouth  ;  bring  the  ends  of  this  over  his  nose  and 
hold  with  the  left  hand.  An  assistant  then  takes  hold  of  the 
lower  jaw  with  the  aid  of  another  cloth,  if  necessary,  and 
wrenches  the  jaw  apart  j  the  right  hand  of  the  operator  pushes 
the  pill  or  bolus  down  the  throat,  being  careful,  as  before,  to  keep 
the  head  up  and  the  jaws  closed  for  a  few  seconds.  The  manner 
of  drenching  is  either  to  pour  the  fluid  down,  using  the  cheek  as 
a  funnel,  or  to  open  the  mouth  as  for  a  pill  or  bolus,  and  pour  it 
down  the  throat  by  means  of  a  sauce-ladle  or  water-bottle.  Keep 
the  mouth  closed  directly  the  fluid  is  received,  to  force  the  dog 
to  swallow  it. 

Mange — No.  1. 

This  disagreeable  and  loathsome  disease,  although  very  pre- 
valent, is  but  imperfectly  understood,  from  inattention  and  want 
of  knowledge  of  location  and  treatment.  The  dog  rapidly  be- 
comes weakened  and  debilitated,  and  is  too  often  abandoned  by 
his  owner  to  his  fate.  By  adhering  to  the  following  directions 
the  disease  will  rapidly  yield,  your  pet  and  companion  will  be- 
come again  a  sprightly  creature,  bounding  before  you  in  healthy, 
agile  life. 

The  most  common  form  of  the  mange  is  produced  by  the 
presence  of  a  small  parasite,  invisible  to  the  naked  eye,  and 
similar  to  the  parasite  which  appears  as  the  itch,  on  the  human 
body ;  and  can  be  conveyed  to  the  healthy  from  the  diseased  dog 
by  simple  contact,  the  parasite  readily  leaving  the  emaciated 
victim  to  fasten  upon  a  healthy  subject.  The  dog,  when  per- 
ceived to  be  affected,  by  the  fact  of  scratching,  should  be 
examined,  and  there  will  be  seen  small,  red  points,  like  flea- 
bites.  These  eventually  pustulate,  and  exude  a  thin,  irritating 
liquid  or  matter.  There  are  many  recipes.  The  best  and 
simplest  is  : 

Take  Ung.  Hydrarg i  oz. 

Oil  of  Tar i  oz. 


DISEASES   OF   THE   DOG.  279 

Sulphur  Sub 8  oz. 

Whale  Oil,  about 8  oz. 

Mix  thoroughly,  and  after  shaving  the  hair  from  the  part  affected, 
and  washing  well  the  entire  body  of  the  dog,  apply  carefully  and 
well.  After  the  expiration  of  three  days,  wash  off  and  apply  in 
the  same  manner,  and  again  in  less  than  a  week,  if  it  seems  neces- 
sary. 

This  remedy  is  within  the  reach  of  every  one,  and  I  have  found  it 
absolutely  efficacious. 

Mange— So.  2. 

This  species  of  mange,  being  deeper  in  the  skin,  is  not  as  contagious 
:«  the  first  form.  Dogs  infected  may  associate  with  healthy  animals, 
yet  not  extend  the  disease.  For  this  reason  many  persons  have  de- 
nied the  contagiousness  of  the  mange. 

This  feature  in  follicular  scabies  is  accounted  for  by  the  habits  and 
situation  of  the  parasite.  It  only  leaves  the  body  of  the  dog  when 
carried  off  by  the  fluid  thrown  out  in  the  follicle.  The  slightest 
accidental  contact  suffices  for  its  transference  from  the  diseased  to  the 
healthy  dog,  and  spreads  with  remarkable  energy. 

Symptoms — First,  hot  tumefactions  of  the  skin  take  place  and  are 
usually  patched  with  red,  and  blotchy.  Soon  small  pimples  show 
themselves,  rapidly  becoming  pustular,  break  and  exude  serum,  and 
(in  extreme  cases)  pus,  which  forms  in  scabs  or  crusts.  The  skin 
becomes  thick  and  chapped,  as  in  common  mange.  The  disease 
usually  begins  on  the  head,  extending  thence  all  over  the  body.  It 
is  very  obstinate  in  yielding  to  treatment  and  is  of  long  duration. 

Treatment — The  best  results  have  been  obtained  by  the  use  of  the 
following  : 

Acid  Acetic 2  drams. 

Oil  of  Terebinth 2  drams. 


280  DISEASES   OF   THE   DOG. 

Oil  of  Tar £  oz. 

Ung.  Hydrarg  1  oz. 

Sulphur 8  oz. 

Whale  Oil 10  oz. 

Mix  the  whole  thoroughly  and  rub  the  affected  parts  for  five 
minutes.  In  forty-eight  hours  wash  off  with  soft  soap  and  warm 
water.  When  dry  apply  to  the  surface  whale  oil ;  the  following  day 
repeat  the  ointment — dressing  without  washing.  Eepeat  the  oper- 
ation in  a  week. 


CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Anodyne  Stimulating  Liniment 116 

Anatomy  of  the  Horse's  Foot 125 

Administration  of  Eemedies 277 

Applying  the  Shoe 188 

Age  of  the  Horse 54 

Aperients • 269 

Anti-Spasmodies 270 

Alteratives 270 

Anodynes 271 

Anodyne  Prescription 271 

Astringents 271 

Aromatic  Powder 228 

Anodyne  Balls 230 

Anodyne  D renches > 230 

Apply  the  Strap 233 

Balky  Horses ^° 

Bots 97 

Balls  for  Farcy 118 

Blood  Spavin 96 

Bare  Feet  for  Farm  Horses 120 

Bull  Terrier 261 

Bloodhounds 215 

Bruise  or  Sprain 116 

Blisters 272 

Bli stering  Paste 227 


Page. 

Colic  Beraedy 89 

Catarrh  or  Cold 91 

Cure  of  .Farcy 103 

Curb HI 

Conditiou  Powders .  112 

Condition  Powder 119 

Caustics 117 

Cougli  Balls 118 

Cooling  Liniment 115 

Concluding  Kemarks  on  Shoeing 221 

Collie,  or  Shepherd  Dog 250 

Common  Cur 255 

Clips 180 

Colic  Flatulent 89 

Contracted  Feet 106 

Colic  Spasmodic 87 

Cooling  Lotion 232 

Caustic  for  Dogs 273 

Cordials 274 

Cough  Powder 227 

Cooling  and  Diuretic  Drink 228 

Cordial  and  Anodyne  Ball 228 

Cordial  Balls 230 

Condition  Powders 23 1 

Diabetes  Eemedy 118 

Different  Dispositions  and  Temperaments  of  the  Horse  45 

Diseases  of  the  Horse  and  their  Treatment 82 

Diuretic  Drops ...  113 

Diseases  of  the  Dog 262 


Ill 


Dog  Medicine. 


Page. 

269 


Diuretics 

Diuretic  Alterative  Balls 228 

Diabetes  Remedy 229 

Diuretic  Ball... 229 

Emetics  272 

274 
Expectorants 

Eye  of  the  Horse 

Fatal  Disease  of  the  Foot  102 

Founder 108 

For  NewStrains   li6 

For  Bloody  Urine 118 

For  Inflamed  Leg,  (railed  Back,  &c 115 

275 
Febrifuges 

Fever  Balls  229 

230 
For  the  Appetite  

Glanders 

Grease  Heels 

Growth  of  the  Hoof 142 

General  Management  of  the  Hoof  212 

94-6 
Greyhound 

How  to  Break  a  Colt  Properly 23 

How  to  Break  a  Bad  Halter-Puller 42 

Heaves 96 

117 
Healing  Compound  1Li 

H.  Sample's  Horses  and  Dog  William 2^3 

Hoof ' 131 


IV 

Page. 

Hook,  the  Use  of 232 

Healing  Preparation 114 

Hoof  Ointment 232 

Introduction    3 

Incurable  Diseases  119 

Instructions  to  Farriers  217 

Kicking  Horses 37 

Lung  Fever 83 

Lockjaw  or  Tetanus  97 

Lampas    99 

Liniment  of  Extraordinary  Merit  for  all  Purposes...  112 

Liniment  for  Open  Wounds 114 

Liniment  for  Foul  Ulcers  115 

Xiniment  for  Cooling  External  Inflammation 115 

Liniment  for  Inflamed  Leg,  Galled  Back  or  Shoulders  115 

Lice  on  Horses 112 

Liniments  or  Embrocations 273 

Liquid  Blister 227 

Laxative  Alterative  Balls 228 

Management  of  the  Horse 23 

Mange  Treatment  Nos.  1  and  2 102 

Magic  Liniment 116 

Mild  Caustics  117 

Management  of  the  Dog 244 

Mastiff  248 

Mixed  Balls 230 

Mange— Dogs 278 


V 

Page. 

Nasal  Gleet  and  Treatment  103 

Nerve  Operation  105 

Ointment  for  Healing  Cuts,  Grails,  etc 114 

Ointment 276 

Preliminary  Eem  arks  5 

Poll-Evil  and  Fistula  of  the  Withers  93 

Preparing  the  Hoof 149 

Purchasing  a  Horse  225 

Poodle 249 

Quitter 101 

Kingbone    104 

Rasping  the  Hoof     195 

Recipes — Promiscuous 227 

Runaway  Horse    36 

Recipes  to  Soften  Horses'  Feet 232 

Senses  of  the  Horse 12 

Strangles  or  Distemper    92 

Sweeny    94 

Spavins — Two  Kinds    94 

Scratches — Cure    101 

Sprains  in  the  Stifle 105 

Shoulder-Joint  Lameness    Ill 

Sticking  Plaster  for  Cuts  and  Wounds 115 

Shoeing  146 

Shoeing  of  Defective  Limbs    210 

Streets  and  Roads     214 

Smooth  Rat-Terrier 250 


VI 

Page. 

"Shoe 165 

Setter 247 

Shoeing  Horses 121 

Sprain  and  Bruise 116 

Shoeing  the  Horse 202 

Splendid  Liniment 230 

Sweating  Application 272 

Stomachs 276 

Styptics 277 

Sore  Tongue 227 

To  Break  a  Horse  that  is  xlfraid  of  a  Locomotive...  51 
To  Strengthen  the  Tendons  after  Hard  Driving  and 

Seduce  Swelling  of  the  Legs 100 

Treatment  of  Cuts  and  Wounds 113 

Training  the  Shepherd  Dog 251 

Trick  Dogs 254 

To  Teach  the  Horse  to  Bow    237 

Trick  Horses— To  Teach...: 233 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Sit  up 255 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Stand  up    256 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Walk  on  his  Hind  Feet 256 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Jump 256 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Jump  on  a  Box  or  Chair 257 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Soil  a  Barrel    257 

Teaching  the  Dog  to   Stand  on  his  Hind  Legs  on  a 

Barrel 258 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Pick  up  or  Lay  down  Objects  259 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Distinguish  Colors 259 

Teaching  the  D  og  to  Tell  the  Time  of  D  ay  260 


Vll 

Page. 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Multiply  and  Substract  260 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Sneeze  261 

Tonic  Diuretic  Ball 229 

Tonics 276 

Tonic  Ball 228 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Lie  Down 233 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Sit  "Up 235 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Follow  You 236 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Pick  Up  a  Hat 236 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Shake  his  Head 237 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Answer  Questions 238 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Take  a  Handkerchief  Off  his 

Foot 240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Get  on  a  Box 240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  "Walk  Around  the  Box  on  his 

Front  Feet 240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Get  a  Handkerchief  Off  a  Pole  240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Shoot  a  Pistol    240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Paw     240 

Teaching  the  Horse  to  Find  a  Handkerchief    241 

Trick  Horse  "White  Hawk" 241 

Teaching  the  Dog  his  ~N&me 252 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Come  to  You   253 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Go  From  You  253 

Teaching  the  Dog  to  Halt 253 

Wash  for  Eeducing  Inflamed  Wounds 115 

Wash  for  Fresh  Wounds 114 

Watering  Horses 119 

Winter  Shoeing  207 

Worm  Medicines 275 

Washes,  or  Lotions  276 


J.  J.  Millek,  Printer,  Melbourne. 


BU 


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